Restaurant recommendations in Venice/Mestre

[rosespot]

My husband and I will arrive in Venice on August 28 (Sunday) evening. We will be staying in a hotel in Mestre (cheaper than Venice) near the train station. We will leave for Florence on Tuesday late afternoon.

I would like to get some recommendations for restaurants in Mestre, as we will definitely be eating there on Sunday night upon our arrival. For Monday night, would it be easier to find an open restaurant in Venice or in Mestre? I read on some posts that Monday nights can be hard for dining out....

We are both more into food than atmosphere, so nothing too fancy or super expensive. :) And, would even be better if the restaurants serve food that is special to the area (I read lagoon seafood?).

Thanks in advance!! any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!!

Rosespot

[PBSF]

Since I haven't eaten much in Mestre, am not much help. Monday is difficult as just about all the good seafood restaurants are closed. La Furatola in Dorsoduro might be open. It is a small simple osteria with very good seafood, not expensive by Venice standards. If not, I would go to Fiaschetteria Toscana which I think is the best and most consistent traditional restaurant in Venice. Although not strictly a seafood restaurant, it has many seafood items on the menu. The ambience and service borders on fine dining but the staff is informal and friendly. A three course meal will be around 50euro before wine. Reserve on the ground floor dining room as upstair feels like an after thought. I think it is worth a trek from Mestre. Another good option is Al Covo. There will be some seafood from the lagoon/upper Adriactic, though, it is always expenisve.

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Al Covo
Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

[rosespot]

Thanks for your suggestions, PBSF! btw, we also live in the bay area. :)
Yeah, it's the combination of Sunday/Monday + end of August that is making me a bit worried. Do you highly recommend making reservations with these restaurants (and the ones we will be going to in Florence/Tuscany)? if so, is there something like opentable, or like bcnrestaurante?
Thanks!!

[PBSF]

Since would definitely make reservations for restaurant because you don't have a flexible itinerary. For Venice, Fiaschetteria and Al Covo are quite popular and unlike many small trattorias, they will take reservations way in advance. They have websites for reservations. Both restaurants are very comfortable with Fiaschetteria more toward fine dining whereas Al Covo has a family feel. The menu at Fiaschetteria is very traditional with all the Venetian specialities including many seafood. The menu at Al Covo is smaller and a little more creative while still retain much of the traditional Venetian flavors. Both have very good desserts.
I agree with the above poster about good food in Mestre. Even though we have spend much time in Venice over the past 15 years, we hardly ever ventured to Mestre. That doesn't mean that one can't eat well there. If you are planning to commute to Venice just to eat one meal and not to spend a day there, I would do some research on restaurants in Mestre rather than making a special trip. For me, I love Venice proper, so a trip is never too much of a hassle.
As for Open Table equivalence in Italy, there was very recent post on the subject. Just search the Italy board for the past week or so with a heading of something like "is there a Open Table for Italy'.

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Al Covo
Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

[rosespot]

Thanks again, PBSF!
Oh yeah, we plan to visit Venice all day Monday and half day Tuesday. :) Just wasn't sure whether it's easier to have Monday dinner in Venice or Mestre. It sounds like it's about the same int terms of difficulty to find an open restaurants on Monday. Will do more research and make our reservation beforehand.
Thanks again!

[PBSF]

Dining in Venice cost a little more but it is worth it. Evenings in Venice is magical, the the sounds of the canal and the shimmering reflections. Plus the day trippers are gone and it is not as crowded. The perfect time to be in Piazza San Marco and ride the vaparetto back to St. Lucia for the train or Roma for the bus. Can't go wrong with Fiaschetteria Toscana or Al Covo or if it is open Monday, La Furatola. Couple of good less expensive places opened Mondays are alla Frasca and da Alberto.

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alla Frasca
Corte della Carita, Cannaregio, 5176, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT

Al Covo
Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

Fiaschetteria Toscana
Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT

[jen kalb]

thre are several very good restaurants in Mestre, including slowfood picks. Venetian seafood is available. One is La Pergola, but its not a seafood specialist. and it is closed Sun Another is Da Mariano, also closed Sun http://www.viamichelin.co.uk/web/Rest...

viamichelin is a good source for this type of research. For example, I see that a restaurant with the unlikely name of Soul food kitchen on viale Stazione is open for Sunday dinner. Its highlighted as a good value restaurant by Michelin. no indication of type of food. Another Da Celeste, in nearby Pellestrina, on stilts over the sea, is open on Sunday nigh and offers a fixh cuisine. It might make sense if you have a car or can get a cab. Otherwise, travelling into the city as PBSF suggests might be the best bet.

ISo many of the venetians have moved to terra firma that in theory it should be a very good place to eat good food at a reasonable price, however your days and dates may be against you..

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La Pergola
Via Fiume,42, Mestre, Veneto , IT

[rosespot]

Thanks a lot for your tips, Jen! Will sure check out viamichelin and the other restaurants you suggested.
It's kinda frustrating that it's so hard to find good eats on Sunday....
Thanks again!

[jen kalb]

added some restaurants to the database, and links

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Trattoria La Furatola
Calle Lunga de San Barnaba, Dorsoduro,2870, Venice, Veneto 30123, IT

Ostaria da Mariano
Via Spalti,49, Venice Mestre, Veneto , IT

Dall'Amelia alla Giustizia
Via Miranese,113, Venice Mestre, Veneto , IT

Al Calice
Piazza Erminio Ferretto,70, Mestre, Veneto 30175, IT

Al Leone di San Marco
Via Trezzo,6, Mestre, Veneto 30174, IT

Da Rocco
Via Bissa,5, Mestre, Veneto 30173, IT

Ai Tre Garofani
Via Asseggiano, Spinea, Veneto 30038, IT

[rosespot]

Thank you so much, Jen! really appreciated the links!!

[maxinvenice]

Hi rosespot, I live in Venice and If you stay near the Mestre train station I think you could try Ristorante Dall'Amelia www.dallamelia.it, it's good for fish and the locals eat out there, it's very close to the train station, but better take a taxi, 'cause the neighbourhood at night it's not so safe...
Try la Furatola when in Venice!! GReat food and affordable
For a good pizza if you want something easy try fratellilabufala.eu is near piazza ferretto in in mestre and then go eat a great Gelato at Grom!!
enjoy
Max

[rosespot]

Thanks a lot for the suggestions, Max! really appreciated your help!

[PBSF]

If La Furatola is open on Mondays, that is a great suggestion if you want seafood only, no meat or poultry options. It is a nice simple trattoria, less expensive than many of the other seafood only place in Venice.

[rosespot]

Thanks again for the great suggestions, max and PBSF!!

[rosespot]

La furatola is open on Monday! Just called and made reservation today! Really looking forward to it! Do you know of any places that are open for Monday lunch? I am thinking about some place causal and informal that serves cicchetti. Don't mind standing. Just need to be open on Monday. :)
thanks a lot!!

[PBSF]

Just about all the bacari are open Mondays. If you are arriving in on the end of August, a couple such as alla Vedova, ai Promessi Sposi might still be closed for their annual closing; check as there is always a couple days of fluctuation year to year. Most will have simple seats or bar stools. The best ones are in Cannairegio, just off the Strada Nuova. I would go to La Cantina, Al Bomba, Alla Vedova, ai Promessi Sposi. There are also simple ones around the Rialto Market (the pescheria is closed Mondays therefore, it is rather quiet). Do Mori is famous with old atmosphere. Same for L'Arco and Do Spada. Also Al Marca, Muro; except for Spada, all are standup. If you are in Dorsoduro for Peggy Guggenheim or l'Academia, there are Cantinone gia Schiavi and ai Vini Padovani, both are favorites with great wines. Near San Marco are the bar area of Osteria San Marco, Acuighetta, Cavatappi (excellent wines with more upscale cicchetti). Since your time in Venice is short, I would probably co-ordinate cicchetti lunch with where you are sightseeing.

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La Cantina
Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, Venice, Veneto , IT

Vini Padovani
Dorsoduro, calle dei Cerchieri,1280, Venice, Veneto , IT

Alla Vedova
Ramo del Ca' d'Oro, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT

[rosespot]

Thank you so much again for your detailed reply, PBSF! I am glad to know most bacari are open on Monday. Too bad the pescheria is not. We probably will go back in the morning on Tuesday just to check it out. We haven't purchased the train tickets to Florence yet (plan to do so when we get to Venice), so can leave in the afternoon (tues) instead. Can one eat in the pescheria?
Thanks again!!

[rosespot]

Sorry, one more question. I assume most gelato places will be open on Monday as well? I remembering reading posts weeks ago and got the general impression that all gelato stores are good. Any particular ones we should avoid?? Thanks!!

[PBSF]

Gelato places are opened 7 days a week and many until 10pm. In general, most gelato are good in Venice (like most of Italy). Certain ones are best for certain flavors. There are still quite a number of independent single shop that still make their own: Gelateria del Doge on Cp Santa Margherita is my favorite. Their best are their signature del Doge (a grown up 50/50 orange bar of my childhood studded with candied fruit and chocolate swirls) , any chocolate, fiore de latte and stracciatella. During the summer, they also make some awesome granites. Alaska is a bit out of the way in Santa Croce just north of Cp Giacomo dell Orio. Their style is lighter and more intense; best are their fruit flavor and great pistachio. I am never sure of their opening hours because of its quirky owner. Other good ones are: Paolin on the Cp Santa Stefano for the lemon, Boutique del Gelato on s/San Lio, Gelato Le Squeri in Dorsoduro. Venice most famous is Nico on the Zattere, good peach, strawberry and rum raisin. Millefolie next to the Frari is pretty decent. So is Majer. There are numerous others that are either part of a chain or buy from a central manufacture such as Igloo. You will find them in just about any busy pedestrian street. There is a Grom on Cp San Barnabas.
I avoid those right around Piazza San Marco (no idea where their gelati is from) because they either charge more than the customary 1.2 euro of everyone else for a single or require buying a double. And if anyone of any other good ones, I would love to know.
The pescheria itself does not have any food. There are plenty of bacari around the market. The very atmospheric do Mori and do Spada (seats) are famous and packed when the pescheria closes around 12.30pm. Nearby is L'Arco, simple and more friendly toward visitors. Pronto Pesce Pronte opened by the people of Alle Testiere is also nearby. Not quite a bacaro, mainly seafood take out but they also have some for eat in. It is either standup or bar stool. Not inexpensive because the quality of the seafood. Or go around to Cp Bella Vienna and Giacomo where there are Muro, Al Marco, Bancogiro, Naranzaria. The latter two have excellent and interesting wines by the glass. Most bacari open early around 9am but a few starts around lunch time.

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Grom
Sestiere Cannaregio,3844, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT

[rosespot]

Thank you so much again, PBSF! I can't wait to taste all the good food!!

[PBSF]

I just edited a couple of things including my bad grammar. Hope the post is clear.

[rosespot]

I must thank you again for the helpful info! Very clear. :) now it is a problem of how to pack all the food into the stomach. :). Thanks again, PBSF!!

[livingvenice]

Just a few tiny addendums: Ca d'Oro and Gelatone on the Strata Nova and San Leonardo respectively are worth seeking out, in fact. Also, most gelaterie will be open even until midnight in summer or until the weather turns. I'll also suggest Al Mercà to the world's smallest bàcaro venue with interesting and excellent wines by the glass, as well.

(With all the ground you cover PBSF, there's very little for me to add. Bravo!)

[PBSF]

Thanks for Al Merca; in my sleep stuper or too much San Marco in my mind, I typed Al Marco. It it use to be Al Marca, then couple years ago the awning sign was changed to Al Merca.

[livingvenice]

...there's a great story behind that -- get them to fill you in next time you're in town.

[rosespot]

Thanks to both of you, living venice and PBSF. I will certainly gain weight after my trip. :)

[PBSF]

Yes, eat plenty of gelati; one of the very few bargains left in Venice.

[barberinibee]

rosespot,

I hope you will report back on your trip. I've had nothing but bad experiences eating at recommended restaurants in Venice (better luck in Mestre) and to this day, I remember the gelato I spontaneously bought in the piazza San Stefano as one of the worst tasting things I've ever had in Italy.

But I was following recommendations other than from Chowhound regulars for whom Venice is a prime destination for repeat visits. (The only overlap was Furatola and Fiaschetteria Toscana, and perhaps the first has improved and I'm not a huge fan of the Tuscan kitchen anyway.)

Bravo to the people who help others up their chances..

[rosespot]

I sure will report back when I come back! I really appreciate everyone's suggestions and inputs! they are tremendously helpful!!
Maxinvenice has recommended Ristorante Dall'Amelia in Mestre, but it is closed on Sundays, so I am going to try out Ristorante da Bepi Venesian in Mestre on Sunday instead. Will let you know how it is!

[rosespot]

Oh just so people know, both Osteria Bancogiro and Alla Frasca are closed on Mondays. I emailed them and found out....

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Bancogiro
Campo San Giacomo di Rialto, San Polo 122,, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT

[livingvenice]

A brief (if varied) "Open Monday" list includes Orto dei Mori, Nono Risorto, La Cantina, Promessi Sposi, El Refolo, Al Covo, Do Farai, Mascaron, Timon, Fiaschetteria Toscana, Garanghelo, Muro, Ridotto, Casa Mia Pizzeria, Anfora, La Staffa, Zucca, Impronta Cafè, Aciugheta, La Madonna, Osteria San Marco...just for starters.

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Al Covo
Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

Fiaschetteria Toscana
Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT

La Cantina
Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, Venice, Veneto , IT

El Refolo
Via Giuseppe Garibaldi,1580, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

all'Aciugheta
Campo Santi Filippo E Giacomo,4357, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT

[rosespot]

Thanks for the info, livingvenice!

[PBSF]

Paolin is the only gelateria on Campo Santa Stefano; like many places, they are good for couple of flavors: lemon is excellent; the mixed berry is pretty good. The flavor you had was worst than the one from Grom? Other cafes on the Campo serves gelato but not take away cone or cup.
Despite the 'Toscana" in Fiaschetteria Toscana, the cooking is strictly traditional Venetian; only a single menu item, the bisteca, from Tuscany. And some excellent Tuscan reds.
I can't tell you if Furatola has improved. It is always been reliable for seafood and not as expensive as some of the other seafood places. Another plus is that it is open on Mondays, rare in Venice.
Venice is not a world class eating city but there are some very good seafood to be had.

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Fiaschetteria Toscana
Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT

[barberinibee]

I assumed that Furatola was a fairly new restaurant when I ate there (at least 7 years ago), partly because of our poor experience. The evening's special was a seafood lasagne. When I asked if it had cheese in it and was told yes, I asked for just a mixed seafood, grilled or fried. And the answer was an argument! I would have thought a good seafood restaurant would be cheerfully willing to produce either for me. My husband ordered the lasagne, and -- I kid you not -- he gagged. The mixed seafood platter grudgingly prepared for me was fine, but nothing more. But like I said, this was seven years ago, and we never returned.

I never went back to Fiaschetteria Toscana either, but some years later, when I complained to a fan that I was taken aback at the overcooked fegato alla Veneziana I was served there, the response was that I shouldn't have ordered so commonplace a Venetian dish. So on my own I concluded that I had goofed in not paying more attention to the name of the restaurant. That said, on another Chowhound thread, not all that long ago, a different poster complained about their poor risotto there, another dish I would thought would be good in a good Venetian restaurant.

The one gelato I ate in Venice was purchased from a cart in the Campo (it was a national holiday) -- so no aspersions cast on Paolin. A Grom gelato isn't worth the calories, in my view, but this was vile with chemicals. Blame me for not going to a recommended gelateria, but I think by that time I was taking a dim view of recommendations for Venice. I only bought the gelato because I had eaten dinner at Do Farai, sometimes recommended here on Chowhound and elsewhere. But the evening I was there the kitchen had become overwhelmed by several very large Italian families there for the holiday. I finally left rather than wait for my secondo, without bitter feelings toward the restaurant (I liked my antipasta and primo!) However, I was still hungry, not many choices at 10:30 other than gelato -- hence my picking up a cone from the first vendor I saw.

Could be I am spoiled living on the Riviera about the fresh fish and seafood here. My experiences of eating seafood along the eastern side of Italy have been really very good In Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, occasionally good in Emilia-Romagna, and highly problematic in Venice (better in Mestre). But I've not tried most of the restaurants you generally recommend.

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Fiaschetteria Toscana
Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT

[jen kalb]

Thats too bad that you had so many mediocre experiences, and at well respected restaraurants - we have had quite a number of very good to memorable meals in venice over the years.

As to the fish.seafood pasticcio in Venice, we have had and enjoyed it a number of times in traditional restaurants. It has been made with a bit of cheese in the versions we experienced.. See the friulian recipe for the same below.

http://www.friuliviadeisapori.it/?sec...

I think I have had fegato alla veneziana 3 times in Venice - twice it was delicious the other time, in a mediocre restaurant (Dona Onesta) it was mediocre., overcooked. Since it is so easy to make at home I doubt I would try again, I agree with your frineds that its a crapshoot to order such a famous dish at a seafood specialist restaurant. but at such a fine restaurant it should not be badly done..

[barberinibee]

I was sorry that I had those experiences too. My rejection of the pasticcio was only because I felt I had come all the way to Venice to taste some fish and seafood items that are unique to the lagoon, and I was afraid the cheese would mask the taste.

Reading this thread I was thinking about an article Gael Greene wrote many years ago, but it was shortly after my first visit to Venice. I dug it up, and I now think the article was actually incredibly influential on Americans going to Venice. A lot of other food writers must have cribbed from it.

But what I especially liked about the article was her willingness to go ahead and recommend a restaurant even when it fell flat on its face in some regards. For instance, she reports that at La Zucca she sent back a plate of leathery lamb chops (the waitress explained: "They were cooked this afternoon") but praises the place overall. She complains Fiaschetteria Toscana (back then) oversalted every dish, but put the restaurant at the very top of her list anyway.

She recognizes what a tough sell Venice has become. I think her opening hook is as timeless as the city, even if the restaurant recommendations are out of date:

"Not everyone falls in love with Venice at first sight; certainly not at first bite. For all its mythic enchantment, its wondrous changing light and shimmering reflections, its haunting intimacy, Venice can seem indifferent to the casual visitor, and it's never been known for noteworthy cuisine. The popularity of certain ferociously expensive (especially for those of us toting the diminished dollar) dining perennials suggests Venetians love overcooked fish and thrive on the gluey black ink of the cuttlefish. My partner, Steven, and I are on our fourth extended sojourn here, and I'm happy to report that there are dishes to savor, and restaurants from which the fussiest mouths emerge smiling. All it takes to eat well in Venice are walking shoes, a vaporetto pass, and reconnaissance."

http://www.travelandleisure.com/artic...

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La Zucca (aka alla Zucca
)Santa Croce, 1762, Venezia 30135, IT

[rosespot]

thanks for sharing the article, barberinibee!

[livingvenice]

True, the name Fiaschetteria Toscana is misleading -- comes from when the locale was established in 1800s by a Tuscan family who then offered typical products and fare. Present owner/family arrived in 1956 and just never changed the name.

[barberinibee]

I'm curious:

Is there anything other than bistecca on the menu at Fiaschetteria Toscana goes with the red Tuscan wines they "re-sell"? Which Venetian dishes pair with them? Or are the Tuscan reds kept more for decor?

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Fiaschetteria Toscana
Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT

[PBSF]

It is true that much of Venetian traditional cooking based on seafood do not pair well with red wine. The menu at Fiaschetteria Toscana do have a few dishes: carpaccio, bigoli with duck sauce, tagliata of beef, hen with salsa peverada, the fegato and excellent cheeses. The owners know their wines and love reds. They are not kept for decor. Sometimes, things don't always make total sense. Makes life interesting. And there are plenty of whites on their excellent wine list.

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Fiaschetteria Toscana
Cannaregio, 5719, Venice, Veneto 30131, IT

[livingvenice]

The Fiaschetteria in general is a very good, very Venetian restaurant; speaking personally I would eat Venetian things there and pair them with excellent regional wines (they'll be delighted to help you out here). When in Tuscany, or le Marche, or Puglia, etc. I would exploit local ingredients and local fare just the same, especially if my time was limited.

So I can't advise you on the bistecca, or the Tuscan wines...even though they're exactly what makes my mouth water as soon as I board the train for Firenze... :)

p.s. Generally speaking, good wine is too expensive to keep on hand for decor. Fiaschetteria is known for their list, which is broad and deep, as any reputed cantina will be. (If you order a Brunello with your branzino we will have to send out the Pairing Police though, i'm afraid.)

[barberinibee]

PBSF and livingvenice.

Thanks for your responses. I drink Morellino di Scansano with seafood dishes up here in Liguria, but mostly ones with spicy or tomato laced sauces, which I don't think of as Venetian in any way, so I was curious if some of the more famous Tuscan red wines made for a good pairing with some purely Venetian dishes -- like who knew Brunello would be so great with eel?That sort of thing.

I think it will be a while before I revisit Venice, and even longer before I revisit Fiaschetteria. Living here in Liguria, the most interesting food destination for me now is Lombardia, and it is so close, or a revisit to Fruil-Venezia-Giulia and Piemonte. But in the meantime, I am going to Bologna and Roma (for Italian culture even more than food!)

[thetravellinggourmet]

I recommend the Caffe Florian, the Canova Ristorante in Luna Hotel Baglioni and the Hotel Gritti Place.
Please read about my experience before you consider small independent restaurants in Venice...
Dining in a dark alley in Venezia….
MY name is Lim, Dr. Michael Lim and I am The Travelling Gourmet. I travel the world to eat and drink professionally so I can write no holds barred features about the places I experience.
Recently, I was in Venezia, and after strolling about the Rialto Bridge, I felt hungry as it was 8.30pm. I chanced upon a restaurant in a dark, dark alley, only 5 feet wide. It was starting to get dark although the sun only sets usually about 9.45pm in summer. A group of seven boisterous Americans were yelling and joking good naturedly at each other and at no one in particular. They were totally drunk. I could tell by the way they made merry and by the number of empty wine bottles on their table. At another table, there sat a middle aged couple who dined quietly, whispering sweet nothings in each other's ear. I thought, "Great atmosphere, dining in a dark alley instead of a Michelin starred restaurant..."
"You don't like, you don't pay!", the owner said loudly to me interupting my thoughts.
"Vero??" I replied. Vero means 'is it true? or really?'
I decided to sit down and ordered in Italian. This suprised Sergio Nezha, the owner, who went to get his henchman to take my order. The henchman/maitre d' was a fat large aesthetically challenged guy that looked exactly like a Mafia hitman a la 'The Sopranos' with his black tie, black suit and slightly threatening demeanour. "Better and better." I thought. "Dine by the Rialto in a dark dark alley with a Mafia hitman as your server. Cool!"
I went to check out the kitchen and met the two cooks; I won't call them Chefs. One was from Sri Lanka so I spoke to him in Sinhalese, and the other was from Bangla Desh. The owner did not like me talking to his cooks and shooed me out with a peeved "Allora!". Perhaps he did not want his customers to see that the Italian food was cooked by a 'Tamil Tiger' (this is in jest as he was a very nice, harmless looking fellow) from Sri Lanka and a cook from Bangla Desh. The food came. There was pasta and pizza and the inevitable l'acqua minerale naturale senza gas. It was not Michelin star food by a long, long chalk, but it wasn't too bad. Then the bill came and I paid with a 20 Euro bill. The fat, ugly Mafiosi maitre d' took my money and decided to keep the change, even though it was clearly written that all service and taxes were included in the price.
This displeased me, greatly. It was pitch black then and my partner pleaded in an anxious voice, "Let's go! I know your temper but it is not worth it to get into an argument. There might be violence." I did not like it but I went with her straight to my favourite cafe in Venice, namely the centuries old Caffe Florian on the Piazza San Marco. The band played Edith Piaf's signature theme, "Non, je ne regrette rein!" for me on request, and I felt better after a cup of nice Camomilla tea with honey. Caffee Florian is kid friendly and very nice to all and sundry, but it is EXPENSIVE. However, as the old saying goes, when you pay peanuts, you get monkeys.
So, my food loving friends, if you are near the Rialto and want to dine in a small dark alley way, pay your bill with exact change unless you are a rich New Yorker who likes maitre d's who look like Mafia hitmen. And if you happen to read this fat maitre d', I say this to you, "Idiota e imbecile!" C'est la vie, mon ami... Je ne regrette rien. {:-) Trattoria All'Antico Pizzo", Rialto - S. Polo, 814-30125 Venezia. Tel: [phone] P.I. 03523870271 (By Calle S.Matio o del Marangon) Enjoy! {:-)

[livingvenice]

Hi, There are actually quite a few eateries open on Sunday and Monday in Venice proper, given the traveller demand, although many are higher-end. Try Promessi Sposi or La Zucca on Sunday or Monday, or La Cantina on Monday. For a casual "tavola calda," stop in to the Rosticceria (formerly Gislon) anytime, they have service upstairs for a bit more. Al Muro San Stae offers a varied menu from pizza to pasta to fish and more.

Nothing a bit wrong with eating in Mestre, but understand too that with buses and trains and vaporetti, getting back and forth is not difficult.

And yes, Eat Fish -- IF you can find it on Monday... :)

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La Zucca (aka alla Zucca)
Santa Croce, 1762, Venezia 30135, IT

La Cantina
Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, Venice, Veneto , IT

[dinwiddie]

Our last night in Venice last year (October) we spent in Mestre. We wandered around and ended up having a fantastic meal of seafood at Restorante Bepi (Via Sernaglia 27 - 30171 Mestre) Don't sweat the tourist groups, if it is just the two of you they will seat you in the front rooms and the waiter will have you in stitches.

[rosespot]

That's great! Ristorante Da Bepi Venesian is the one I picked for our Sunday dinner. I called them over the weekend to make a reservation. I am glad to hear you had a good meal there!! thanks for sharing, dinwiddie!

[dinwiddie]

First course from Da Bepi

[rosespot]

Vacation is over and now back home.....
Just want to give a brief report.

We arrived in Venice on Sunday night and had dinner at Ristorante Da Bepi Venesian in Mestre. We asked one of the owners (the 3rd brother, I believe) for recommendations. We ended up having 3 antipasti and 2 main courses:
Pesce misto alla Buranella x 2 (one plate for each of us) -- good
cozze e vongole alla marinara (some kind of mussel in marinara sauce) -- VERY good
Seppie alla Veneziana con polenta (cuttlefish in its own ink with polenta) -- good
Frittura mista dell'Adriatico (mixed fried seafood) -- quite good
jet-lagged, so only had 1 glass of prosecco between the two of us

Good food and very good value. With the above + water + coverage, it was only 55 Euro! Portions were generous. We couldn't finish all the food. But the bread was not so tasty, which probably was a good thing. :)

In the end, we only spent one full day in Venice.
Had lunch at La Cantina. Very good. We weren't too hungry, so shared a plate of salumi and formaggi. Big portion and good quality meat and cheese, with warm tasty bread!

Dinner @ Antica Trattoria La Furatola. had:
Mixed raw seafood -- not bad
cape sante (grilled scallops with a little white wine) -- very good
Spaghetti alla canoce (mantis-shrimp sauce) -- good, just a tad too salty
I had a Sgroppino -- good

Honestly, we were a bit disappointed with La Furatola. It was not bad at all, but didn't "wow" us. We actually enjoyed Bepi Venesian more....

And, I went to 4 gelateria in one day!! kinda crazy, I guess. :D
Ca d'Oro -- nocciola (hazelnut) and caffe
Nico -- pesca (peach)
Lo Squero -- pistachio
Il Doge -- Bacio

I like all of them, cannot pick a favorite. :)

So after I had 4 scoops of gelato in the afternoon, I was not hungry. But my husband who didn't have much gelato told me he needed a savory snack as he was hungry. We were in Campo Santa Margherita at the time, so he just randomly picked a place that sells pizza by the slice. I think the place is called Al Canton and it was next to Gelateria Il Doge. Do NOT get pizza there. My husband said it was quite bad. I didn't even bother tasting it to find out how bad it was.

Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions!! they were really helpful!

Rosespot

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Trattoria La Furatola
Calle Lunga de San Barnaba, Dorsoduro,2870, Venice, Veneto 30123, IT

La Cantina
Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, Venice, Veneto , IT

[PBSF]

Thank you for the nice report. 4 scoops of gelato in a single day, on par with my partner who during our yearly two months stay, everyday a double scoop in the late afternoon, another double after dinner. It is an inexpensive treat.

[rosespot]

oh, I am so jealous! 4 scoops a day for 2 months every year!! I am missing the gelato sorely now....

[barberinibee]

rosespot,

Thank you very much for your report back! I'm making a note of Da Bepi da Venesian in Mestre.

[rosespot]

barberinibee, it's my pleasure!! and I hope you won't be disappointed with Da Bepi Venesian.... I could only compare that to La Furatola (and any past seafood meals I had). But good value for sure. :)

[dinwiddie]

Actually, I never found any "tasty" bread in Venice. I think the Italians just don't get bread the way the French do.