This is a strange question. When I was young and living in the Bay Area (we're talking around thirty years ago) there was a restaurant called Prego on Union Street that was all the rage. It was probably the first Italian restaurant that wasn't of the red sauce variety. I loved it, and I'm sure it's long gone. For those who remember it, which Italian restaurant in SF most closely approximates this style of cuisine?
Prego's not so long gone, it didn't close until 2006. I think the closest in SF these days might be the new wave of bar / pizza places, such as Zero Zero and Beretta.
It played a small part in California pizza history: when Wolfgang Puck was looking to knock off Chez Panisse Cafe, he found Ed LaDou working at Prego, and hired him as opening pizza chef for Spago. LaDou later developed the original menu for California Pizza Kitchen.
826 Folsom St, San Francisco, CA 94107
re: Robert Lauriston
When I was there so many years ago, the big thing was the pasta. I don't remember their having pizza, although maybe they did. It was a kind of small revolution, because it was really the first time you saw things like agnoletti and other large, stuffed pastas in cream or cheese-based sauces. Maybe it's commonplace now, but then it was totally new and different.
I remember I had my 21st birthday there. I was with the prettiest girl I'd ever dated, with the great food and a ten year old bottle of wine (an unheard of luxury), and thinking that life doesn't get any better. And you know what? It hasn't.