Jonathan Gold's 10 Worst Food Trends [split from SF Bay]
- Robert Lauriston Jul 23, 2011 11:21 AM
(Note: We split this thread from the SF Bay area board at: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/731914 -- The Chowhound Team )
Carrots cooked in harry?
Idiazabal's a kind of cheese, so presumably the blowtorched cheese was the "veil."
That Johnathan Gold piece is actually titled "10 Worst Food Trends," and in #10 he says molecular gastronomy / modernist cuisine "can be stunning when executed by a master." Pretty funny:
I see his point in all of them, although some of them are exaggerated. Like molecular gastronomy, sous vide and can produce some amazing results when done right, and for the right reasons. When done wrong, it's just like eating off a steam table. Unlike you, I agree with five and six -- there's way too much innovation for innovation's sake going on in some of these bars and kitchens. I just read the dessert list for Solbar and nothing sounded appetizing -- too many weird ingredients or weird combinations of ingredients. Sometimes there's a reason no one has ever used an ingredient that way: it doesn't taste good! I agree with nine as well -- not everything you put into your mouth has to be analyzed and intellectualized to death. There's a place for that, but that place is starting to overrun the simple pleasures of having a cup of coffee (or a chocolate bar, or anything that comes with tasting notes). I actually think that it's good that a food critic isn't out there judging food on the basis of a jaded palate that can only be piqued by food that's overly intellectual or innovative and sneers at simple deliciousness.
re: Ruth Lafler
"Like molecular gastronomy, sous vide and can produce some amazing results when done right, and for the right reasons." - My problem is that these are cooking techniques like any other cooking techniques. And as with any cooking technique it will be disappointing if those who use it have no clue about it but that is the same with grilling, braising, steaming etc. I would argue that I had more disappointing grilled items in restaurants than those prepared through sous-vide. So why single out sous-vide, MG or just write that he doesn't like badly prepared food.