August closures in Venice?
First, thanks to all the regular contributers who make Venice postings so helpful and lively. After internet and book research I've narrowed down my eating options, but I'm a bit worried about the timing and August restaurant closures. (We'll be there 4-10 August.) It doesn't say anything on the restaurant's own web site, but I've read in other places that Al Fontego dei Pescatori is closed in August. Anyone know if that's true? Or if others, like Alle Testiere or La Zucca might close? Looks like Al Covo closes later in the month, and Venissa seems to say it's open all month. (On another post PBSF mentioned Antiche Carampane closing for August.) I imagine I need to make reservations soon.
Also, once upon a time I had the most amazing meal in the Italian countryside. Really rustic restaurant, no menu, just dish after dish of antipasto and primi, then a choice of meat (which we had to pass on) and dessert and cheeses. I know this is a big, touristy city, but if I want to approximate the truly local, menuless experience would Il Ridotto be the best choice, or another?
And what's preffered on Guidecca? Altanella, Al Pontil dea Guidecca, I Figlie delle Stelle? Food is more important to me than a fancy setting. Price isn't much of a concern.
Any advice is much appreciated.
By lizka_2
on Jul 20, 2011 05:01 AM
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I have not been in Venice during August in many many years, therefore, I don't have direct experience on what is open. From previous casual conversations with Luca at Alle Testiere and signora Librai at Antiche Carampane, August is their usual closing. Don't know about Al Fontego dei Pescatori. It is not unusual that family own places leave Venice during August. If there is no information on their website, my best advice is to telephone them directly to inquire.
Having never been to Il Ridotto, I can't comment on the specifics of the restaurant. There is no such thing as "the truly local, menuless experience" in Venice. For everyday meals, locals don't go for long tasting menus. They eat simply and invariably dishes that are familiar to them. Restaurants that has tasting menu in Venice such as The Met, da Pisis, Il Ridotto are not the 'rustic' restaurant you are looking for. They are more of a vehicle for chefs to be creative which is not a knock on them. Venetians, like your wonderful previous experience, go out to the countryside on Sundays for the long midday meal of dishes after dishes of antipasti and primi, secondi, etc.
The food and setting is better at Altanella though I have not been to Trattoria Al Pontile (if that is what you are referring to) in number of years. Never been to I Figlie delle Stelle.
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Il Ridotto
Sestiere Castello,4509, Venezia , IT
Antiche Carampane
Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT
Altanella
Calle delle Erbe, Giudecca, 268, Venice, Veneto 30133, IT
Al Fontego dei Pescatori
Calle Priuli,Cannaregio, 3711, Venice, Veneto , IT
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OP might however like the restaurants that serve a multi item seafood appetizer to give that expansive feeling. I had mentioned Corte Sconta as offering this and as I recall some others do too?
Are there any limitations on the avaiability of lagoon seafood in the very hot summer weather or is it available right through the summer?
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Corte Sconta
Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3886, Venezia 30122, IT
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PBSF - Thank you so much for the explanations, that's a wonderful help. You're right, creative vehicles for a chef can be a very good thing too. Is there someplace in the Veneto countryside recommend for a Sunday midday meal?
Jen - We are planning to go out to Burano. But I guess I was assuming moeche and similar speciaties were out of season, no? (We're stuck going in August, but at least we get to go!)
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I am sorry that I haven't had any experience with the type of country side restaurant in the Veneto. You might start a new thread so that others might be able to offer some recommendations.
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Good idea, will do. And thanks for all the insight and seafood information. I'll report back in not too long.
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I think that Ca'Vignotto has a multi-course fixed price meal. Its at a rustic location on one of the agricultural islands in the Lagoon, sounds like a possible destination for a leisurely lunch.
When I get a chance, I am going to put up a post with a list and links for some of the Lagoon restaurants that Michela Scibilia recommends (her list does not include Ca'Vignotto)
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Ca'Vignotto
Via Forti,71, Sant' Erasmo, Veneto 30141, IT
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Moleche and canoce are out of season in the warm summer months. Other seafood such as spider crab, calamaretti (tiny squids), canestrelli (baby scallops), folipett (small octopus) and schile should be available. There might also be baby cuttlefish called seppioline beginning in August.
Most seafood restaurants should have a small tasting of assorted of antipasti similar to Corte Sconta serve as a single course. It is offered at Alle Testiere, Antiche Caramapane and Al Fontego. I've also seen it on the menu at Altanella and La Furatola. I hope couple of the above are opened during August during OP's visit.
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Corte Sconta
Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3886, Venezia 30122, IT
Altanella
Calle delle Erbe, Giudecca, 268, Venice, Veneto 30133, IT
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August closures update...
Antiche Carampane closed 23 July to 17 August
Al Covo closed 3 to 11 Aug
Alle Testiere closed all of August
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Antiche Carampane
Calle de la Carampane, 1911,San Polo, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT
Al Covo
Campiello della Pescaria,Castello 3968, Venice, Veneto 30122, IT
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Hi, Fontego dei Pescatori has closed, but will hopefully be reopening in September. Vini da Gigio is open, as is Orto dei Mori, Osteria San Marco, Promessi Sposi, Boccadoro -- La Cantina reopens on the 8th -- or head out to Burano to Gatto Nero, for example. Santa Marina may indeed be open -- best to call anyway to reserve. Ca' Vignotto on Sant'Erasmo would also be a good alternative -- if they're open. Do head out to an island or two for a meal -- the lagoon in summer is the place to be.
PBSF, there are a number of "menuless experiences" to be had at lunch anyway, at various locales that offer business lunches (pranzo operai), but most are more modest -- it all depends on what the diner is looking for, I think. There are few reputable eateries in town that wouldn't be happy to suggest an entire menu if you can be clear about likes and dislikes (raw fish OK?).
My advice would be to eat whatever the fresh fish of the day is, in whatever form appeals (raw, grilled, risotto, al forno...), splitting courses if your appetite won't hold up to a massive meal. Even if it's not on the menu, almost any restaurant will prepare a branzino sotto sale if you ask, and if they have a brazino on hand substantial enough to warrant it.
lizka_2, I think da Marisa is the dish-after-dish experience you seek -- but she closes for the entire month of August.
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Osteria San Marco Srl
Sestiere San Marco, 1610, Venice, Veneto 30124, IT
Osteria Orto dei Mori
Campo dei Mori, Cannaregio 3386, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT
Boccadoro
Campiello Widmann,Cannaregio 5405a, Venice, Veneto , IT
La Cantina
Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, Venice, Veneto , IT
Vini da Gigio
Fondamenta di San Felice, Cannaregio, 3628, Venice, Veneto 30121, IT
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Thank you, thank you. I much appreciate the further advice. We have Burano reservations for Sunday but I will definitely look into Ca'Vignotto, Sant' Erasmo and others as well. And we do like all kinds of seafood, including raw (we're from the States but have been living in Seoul for a couple years and just ate some still-wriggling baby octopus the other day).
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Even though August is lean fishing, whatever fresh catch a reliable eatery offers will be yummy.
You've got one on me with the still wiggling octopus! (But the prepared tiny folpetti/moscardini octopus I had at Gatto Nero were truly tasty...)
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Gatto
Via Castel Morrone, 10, Milan, Lombardia 20129, IT
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