Venice - need tips for food/wine shopping and sipping Prosecco
I am traveling to Italy with two good friends in September-October. We start our trip in Venice, from September 30-October 4, before continuing on to Florence, Umbria and then heading home from Rome on October 17. We have an apartment rental in Cannaregio, on Calle del Forno.
Through these forums, I have a good list of osterias and options for cicchetti., more choices than we can visit over a few short days (including a Sunday and Monday...ah well...)
I would appreciate suggestions for food shopping - cheese, salumi, bread, wine, etc. as we will likely have breakfast and some light meals at the apt. Of course we'll visit the fish market, I grew up in Nova Scotia, Canada, my grandfather was a fisherman from Portugal - we'll see if I can convince my friends to let me cook fish for them one night!
Also, we all enjoy prosecco, but one of us has a particular love for it - and I would welcome suggestions for places where we could stop just for drinks.
Hi, you are lucky to be staying in Calle del Forno as there is a well-kept secret there. There is a bakery in that calle that as well as good bread, is famous for having the best 'baccala mantecato' in Venice. A big pot made on the premises, sold by weight, and only on a Friday, so make sure you get in there on your first day! Almost next door there is a Sisa supermercato, small but very friendly. A 5 minute walk to the Cannaregio canal and every morning you'll find a great fresh fish stall next to Ponte de le Guglie, fish straight from the boat. There are lots of good bars in the area, including a friendly street stall on campo dei Mori, where you can sit outside with your prosecco or spritz con aperol, Don't worry if all the seats are taken, they'll soon find you one if it's busy!
Many thanks for the tip on the baccala mantecato! I have learned that there appear to be more than one Calle del Forno in Cannaregio. Our apartment is on the one that is near the Irish Pub (at least that is what google maps shows me!). It looks like Sisa and this bakery are closer to the Jewish area. No problem, I can still make my way there - sounds like it is worth it! Thank you again.
Do try baccalà mantecato wherever you find it, it's a treat and you will discover the range of ways it can be prepared (milk or no, garlic or no, parsley or no...) Also try baccalà vicentina (grab a €1 crostino at Timon just up the way on Ormesini), along with a local wine by the glass...
Hi, the calle del Forno in Cannaregio is just off the Fondamenta Ormesini actually, so al Timon will be just around the corner for drinks, along with a few other more "everyday" bars. Prosecco, yes, but please don't pass up other regional whites, sparkling or otherwise -- this is one of the best areas for them.
There is a really economical Prix located at the end of a narrow calle just off the Misericordia, a cramped Coop just off the campo at Cinema Italia (the corner pasticceria Boscolo there is a local favorite) and a Billa grocery further flung down toward the Strada Nova (open daily, FYI PBSF) in Campo San Felice, where you also fine La Cantina, a wonderful place for great wine sipping (they'll probably have a sur lie/on the lees), and a lovely dinner of either meat or fish platters (although don't come here looking for filler pasta and risotto).
You might want to remember that Orto dei Mori is not too far from you on Campo dei Mori and open Sunday and Monday both.
Below is a link to a recent post on wine shopping in Venice
I believe calle del Forno is fairly close to the Rialto bridge, therefore, the Rialto market and the shops around it is your best bet for food shopping.
Cheese and salumi at Casa del Parmigano on Cp de Bella Viena; also cheese at the vendor on the corner of ruga Rialto and ruga degli Speziali; bread at Forne de Canton also on ruga degli Speziali.
I am not as familiar to the small shops around your apartment on calle del Forno. There are couple of small Coop supermarkets, one near Cp Santa maria Nova and another on rio Tera SS Apostoli. Ballerin on Salizada San Giovanni Griostomo has good pastries for breakfast (no bread) and also standup coffee bar. Also Pastericceria Didovich near calle Scaleta. Strada Nova has lots of shops including bakeries, wine shops, small shops for cured meat and cheeses. Particularly good is a branch of Forne de Maure for bread, cookies, etc. One the far end of the Strada is a branch of Billa, an excellent supermarket with a good deli, bread, lots of inexpensive Friuli wines for one stop shopping. Do stock up on Saturday at the Rialto as the pescheria is closed Sunday and Mondays. Some produce vendors will be open Mondays. The Billa supermarkets in San Polo and Dorsoduro are open Sundays but not sure about the one near you on Strada Nove.
Since Venetians drink prosecco like water, you will have no trouble finding it at any cafes, bars, wine bars that serve cicchetti. The Aperol spritz is the most popular. In the afternoon, no doubt you will be at a wonderful campo with outside seating to indulge some. A few of my favorites are: around your apartment are Bar ai Miracoli on Cp Santa Maria Nova, Boscolo on Campiello de l'Anconeta; Le Cafe and Paolin (great lemon gelato) on the busy Campo Santo Stefano; closer to where I am in San Polo are my all time favorites: Bancogiro and Nazarania in the loggia on the opposite side of Campo San Giacometto; Caffe dei Frari near the church; Al Prosecco at the Cp San Giacomo del d'Orio in Santa Croce.
If one is looking for after dinner outdoor cafe/bar scene: head to Fondamento Miseriordia in Cannaregio, Campo San Giacometto/Bella Viena in San Polo and Campo Santa Margherita. Not much else happens in Venice at night.
Campo San Giacomo di Rialto, San Polo 122,, Venice, Veneto 30125, IT
Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio, Santa Croce 1503, 30135, Venice, Veneto 30135, IT