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A week in Roussillon. Where to eat?

s
scottbrooks Jul 17, 2011 04:26 AM

Hi all,

We'll be staying in Roussillon for a week and need some advice on where to eat.

We'll have a car and don't mind a drive but closer is better, generally. In terms of budget, we'll spend what we have to in order to get the goods but generally don't put a lot of value on things like fine linen, etc. Great food, great value for our great appetites!

We love the area's cuisine and just need some ideas on where to go.

Scott

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  1. boredough Jul 17, 2011 06:05 AM

    A few relatively close places are:
    L'Arôme and/or le Fournil (& la Flambée for great pizzas) in Bonnieux
    La Bartavelle in Goult
    Domaine de la Coquillade in Gargas (le Jardin dans les Vignes, if weather permits)
    La Ferme de la Huppe in Gordes
    Le Castelas in Sivèrgues

    1. Parigi Jul 17, 2011 06:23 AM

      Have you searched the board on recommendations on the area and found nothing to your liking?
      Sorriest, you have probably read Kurtis's excellent informative report on the area around Roussilon:
      http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/781261

      1. Kurtis Jul 18, 2011 07:57 AM

        Hi Scott,

        Just curious, would you be willing to share your decision for Roussillon as the base? As this topic has been discussed recently- see the link below, and it is a very personal decision, but I found Rousillon to be the least attractive of many villages/towns I've visited recently.

        http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/793694

        10 Replies
        1. re: Kurtis
          Parigi Jul 18, 2011 08:05 AM

          I agree with Kurtis. For me Roussillon and Fontaine de Vaucluse are the most overrun, least authentic villages of the Luberon. They are disneyland villages.

          1. re: Parigi
            s
            scottbrooks Jul 18, 2011 08:26 AM

            Sure. We put the trip together at the last minute and there was a home rental at a decent price.

            We'll mostly spend the week cycling so the specific village wasn't a huge deal. Also, we live in Geneva so it is a short, opportunistic trip for us.

            1. re: scottbrooks
              Kurtis Jul 20, 2011 10:20 AM

              How lucky that you can visit this region on a whim while I rearranged my life for the visit I had few months ago...

              1. re: Kurtis
                s
                scottbrooks Jul 20, 2011 10:37 AM

                Well, it isn't all glory. My cholesterol is through the roof on account of the copious amounts of foie gras we eat. Between that and washing it down with Grand Cru burgundy, my wife and I aren't likely to make 40.

                In all seriousness, Geneva has beautiful views and lousy restaurants but is a great place to start regional travel in Europe

                1. re: scottbrooks
                  Kurtis Aug 1, 2011 10:09 AM

                  Guess not all coronary plaques are made equal... ;)
                  Any feedback on places you tried or good ones you ran into?

                  1. re: Kurtis
                    s
                    scottbrooks Aug 7, 2011 02:19 AM

                    Overall it was a pretty good week despite getting blasted my the mistral for three days and drenched by rain one day.

                    1) I have to agree with the blah comments on Roussillon. It is picturesque, but it is overrun by day trippers and there is no real feel to the village. Dining options are pretty limited too. We hit most of the villages in the Vaucluse on bike. Our favs were Goult and St Saturnin-les-Apt.

                    2) To be fair to Roussillon, the "no parking all over the place" reference is about the parking lot on the market day since that is where they hold it

                    3) The markets in general were a huge disappointment. We were expecting farmers/produce markets rather than a rolling arts & crafts caravan. Most vendors seem to hit the market each day so there isn't a lot of reason to go to multiple markets.

                    4) We had two really good meals at Le Fournil (Bonnieux) and Le Ferme de Huppe (Gordes). Of the two, we preferred Le Fournil. We had one meal in Roussillon at La Treille which was respectable but not to the standards of the others. We also had a charming lunch at Cafe de la Poste in Goult - tasty, great value.

                    I think next year we will try to go in June or September to avoid the tourist crush. We'll probably stay near Goult or further west near the Dentelles de Montmiral which seem a little lower key.

                    1. re: scottbrooks
                      boredough Aug 7, 2011 02:48 AM

                      If you do make it back to Provence next year, I'd opt for June over September : longer days, more reliable weather (although certainly not guaranteed), and fields of flowers (lavender, sunflowers, maybe even some poppies). Market-wise for farmers/producers, go to Coustellet, Velleron, Aix (although Aix has resellers too, but it has a vast assortment of everything), Sénas.... Glad to hear that you enjoyed meals at le Fournil & la Ferme de la Huppe.

                      1. re: scottbrooks
                        Parigi Aug 7, 2011 03:18 AM

                        Thanx for reporting back.
                        Yes June and September are great months. Weather is splendid. There is no crowd. Even the rent is much lower.
                        I have always been part of the Goult fan club.
                        And St Saturnin les Apt is also a great choice for a village. Location-wise it is a great base. The village itself has very good shops - boulangeries, butchers, etc. And it is not a "museum village" or disneyesque village. It is an authentic village life independent of tourism, which is a very important point for me.

                        "No parking all over the place" is just a funny funny sign. There's a pic of us dying laughing in front of it. Taking a pic of the sign was the only reason why we went to Roussillon last time.

            2. re: Kurtis
              p
              Pammel Jul 18, 2011 10:13 PM

              To each their own! We were in Roussillon yesterday morning and enjloyed ourselves thoroughly. As you know, we have a house in Sablet in the Vaucluse and we come to Provence 4 or 5 times a year from California. We have been to all of the Luberon villages multiple times and Roussillon is one of our favorites, not for food by any means. But there is a charm and artwork is generally less expensive by a long shot in Roussillon if you know who to see than you can find in Gordes, Bonnieux, Menerbes or Lourmarin for sure. I am not sure what you mean by overrun, we never fail to find parking right up in the village as we did yesterday.

              1. re: Pammel
                Parigi Jul 19, 2011 01:42 AM

                "we never fail to find parking right up in the village"

                It was in Roussillon where we found the most hillarious English sign: "No Parking All Over The Place".
                Last time we passed by, which was in June, indeed we did not try to find a parking space. There was a traffic jam which ensured that we stop and admire the crowds.

            3. b
              Barbaluc Jul 20, 2011 09:45 AM

              Ferme de la Huppe - not too bad a drive, probably the best of those closest to you

              We had a great lunch last week in Les Taillades at the Auberge des Carrieres. It is about 5 months new and although a bit of a drive from Roussillon it has a nice terrasse. I think this will be a great winter place too.

              1. z
                zorrosf Aug 2, 2011 10:41 AM

                We had a very nice meal at La Prielle or La Trielle (can't remember the exact name) right in Rousillon near the church if it's still operating.

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