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Jul 6, 2011 03:47 PM

Your suggestions for a week in the Charlevoix?

The charlevoix as a food concept is pretty well known, but I am looking for suggestions for specific foodie destinations in the charlevoix, i.e. anywhere between baie-st-paul and tadoussac.

We'll be based at La Malbaie but will do scenic day trips. Delightful and delicious places to stop for eating or or otherwise buying regional food specialities are essential to good scenic vacation travel.

Thanks so much and have a great summer everybody.

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  1. I second the request! We are also going to spend a week there this summer. It would be nice to have some recs other than what is in the guidebook and plus I always like to encourage any info on chow outside of Montreal since it is very much over-represented!

    1. I just came back from there last weekend. Last week i asked the same but never got an answer so i went with what i gathered. Note that we were treated to the most amazing breakfasts at our B&B so we didn't eat that much as lunch.

      Saw a couple of old threads mentioning Le Mouton Noir, so we went there on our first night. was absolutely delicious, service was excellent. The prices were very reasonable, even cheap for the quality. Here is the website:
      We both took the table d'hote. I had a feuilleté of mushrooms, goat cheese and i forget what else. The Pintarde confite in a safron sauce was my main. As a desert i chose a poached pear and blue cheese. My boyfriend had the scallops which were huge. I am drwaing a blank as to what his amain was and he had the nougat ice cream as desert.
      btw, GET RESERVATIONS. At 7-8pm, this place packs up.

      We visited the Laiterie Charlevoix. The guided visit can take an hour, but you can just pop in the shop to grab goodies for a later picnic. We took a few cheeses, a terrine and a saucisson.

      Unfortunately, the Viande Biologique was closed on the weekend so we only got their products at Laiterie Charlevoix. We did stop by the fromagerie which makes Le Migneron. You HAVE to go there for the drive alone. When you drive up to it, it goes slighting up in a hill and oth te right they keep their sheep in a lovely pasture, guarded by a big old sheep dog. The view is spectacular! Buy some more cheese there, and drool over the shelves of maturing cheese that you can see in the rooms below.

      Back to Baie St-Paul, if you want good pastries go to La Main Blanche. From what i understand this place is relatively new, and a little removed from the main tourist path (but stil walking distance). Good french pastries here.

      Again in Baie St-Paul we stopped by Le Saint Pub, the Microbrasserie Charlevoix restaurant. The beers were great (except the ones on tap were warm, i guess they didnt have time to cool) but we were shocked by the incompetence of the waitresses. I wont write a whole rant about it, that's not the point, but we opted to sit at the bar and laugh at a distance at the mascara-expert-tray-holders watching their full dining room with "What should i do" looks. We only had fries since we weren't hungry, and they were pretty aweful, but we saw the tables having some muscles which looked great.

      Off to Ile au Coudre, there is a Cider maker and a bakery. The ciders were wonderful, and they let you taste them all, which was fun. We also got some pear butter which turns out is delicious! One thing though that bummed me later on: I saw a limited range of their product later at the Baie-St-Paul IGA. All were at least 3$ less then when sold at the cidrerie. WTF? That miffed me a bit because i'd expect that buying from the producer directly is cheaper. I felt like a tourist being jiffed. If somebody can explain this to me, i would be grateful.

      Still, the IGA does not carry the full range as, by law, they are not allowed to go above a certain alcohol %.

      The Bakery on the cliff in Ile Coudre (forgot the name) has a lot of nice transformed products (pies, meat pies, ketchups etc...) but they only have one type of bread. They use the same bread recipe in different molds. The bread was good although standard, It was a nice vehicle for our cheeses and terrine. The Bakery has many picnic tables set up beside it so you can eat above the cliff, overlooking the water.

      Hopefully, others can give you suggestions for Malbaie and Tadoussac. In Malbaie, i would try to eat at one of the Manoir Richelieu's restaurants next time.

      Mouton Noir
      43 Rue Sainte-Anne, Baie-Saint-Paul, QC G3Z0C8, CA

      6 Replies
      1. re: SourberryLily

        Hi, thanks for your detailed suggestions and experiences. My impressions are bit less detailed, but we ate well every day and every night.

        Baie St-Paul:
        Mouton Noire: SourberryLily forgot to mention the excellent riverside terrace. We arrived 6ish and got a waterside table. Had the prize winning meat pie and the filet steak. Spouse loved the gazpacho. Enjoyed the casual ambiance.
        La Main Blanche - wow. This bakery is highly wonderful. I wish it was in Montreal. I had a bit of a tartelette festival.

        La Malbaie/Pointe aux Pic
        Le Truchon: Good food but the inside was a bit too Outremont crowd for my taste.
        Manoir Richelieu's terrace lunch: A happy sunny place for the most expensive burger of the trip
        Café Chez Nous - took care of two suppers with no complaints. Saw a couple of Quebec vedettes eating here.
        Pain d'Exclamation: this bakery took care of our get food for the road needs very, very well.
        Pizza de Poste: basic pizza, no pretensions

        Other roadside food emporiums:
        Ferme des basques - in St-Urbain, bought a few duck liver treats and watched the ducks after driving the alpine Parc des Grands Jardins highway and Route des Montagnes..
        Laiterie de Charlevoix: a couple of cheeses, but had some cheese fatigue here.
        Le Migneron cheese place near Laierie de Charlevoix: excellent chese sampling place and seeing the aging room was mouth watering. Plus they make good cheeses.
        Since I am addicted to les saveurs oubliée's confit d'oignon, I bought a few jars here and there.
        Boulangerie in St-Joseph-de-la-rive - some basic cinnamon rolls to eat at gazebo beside church
        Cafeteria in the AMAZING Parc des Hautes Gorges de la riviere Malbaie has "locavore" ingredients (somewhat symbolic, but local nonetheless) and local beers with scenery to die for.
        La Malbaie IGA has decent cheese section, i.e. one cooler with non-industrial quebec cheeses
        Available in a few places was some local smoked salmon from Fumoir Saint-Antoine

        We tried to have picnic lunches with local ingredients and this worked out well from both the food side and the scenic location side.

        All in all a successful trip.

        1. re: SourberryLily

          HI Sourberry,

          Which B&B had the delicious breakfast? Do you also recommend the accommodations?


          1. re: mikefly

            Jardin D'Ozanne.

            I absolutly recommend it. The host, the breakfast, the garden, the rooms, the location (close enough to walk but far enough that you don't hear the roaring motorcycles on the main road)... everything about this place is great.

            EDIT: note that this B&B's breakfast is for people who stay there only. They don't have a separate restaurants like some of the bigger Inns)

              1. re: mikefly

                Great! Enjoy your stay. They lady is super nice :)

                1. re: SourberryLily

                  She was very lovely. B&B was perfect and reasonably priced - location away from the centre ideal. Breakfast was good, but a little repetitive after 3 days! I would have killed for some bacon, ham or sausage.

        2. I also just returned from a week in La Malbaie - I second the Pain D'Exclamation, really good pastries and a fantastic bread (sourdough) called the Charlevoisien. Great service as well. There is a really cool old time mill/bakery off the highway and closer to Baie St. Paul called the Moulin La Remy - again great bread, pastries and flour. We ate at the Boheme Steak restaurant in La Malbaie a couple of times - good Veau Charlevoix and steaks. It also served some neat regional beers particularly the La Vache folle. One restaurant we wanted to try but ran out of time was in the nearby town called Le St. Laurent Cafe in St. Irenee - great looking place with a really interesting menu, you may have to make reservations for dinner. It is a beautiful region - enjoy your stay.

          1 Reply
          1. re: jkmanosque

            Mouton noir was delicious, and a great value - $35 for a 3 course meal. Service was so very, very slow and painful. Not sure why as this actually lessened the enjoyment tremendously.