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Foodie Visit to Rome

Hello and Thank You All for your wonderful descriptions and advice on dining in Rome. You have truly added sparkle to my upcoming trip to Rome for a 3-day voice conference which I've extended to enjoy the food! I'm an opera tenor (have you ever seen a skinny tenor) and Huge Foodie, who writes about dining in San Francisco. I'll be in Rome from July 21-31 and thought you'd be amused at my selections, many based upon your recommendations. What do you think! Thank You so much for your truly memorable and enjoyable food insights...tenortom in san francisco - www.thomasclarktenor.com

July 21 - Thursday
Lunch: Roscioli – 1 pm
Gelato Stop: La Gelateria Frigidarium
Dinner: Perilli @ 8 pm

July 22 – Friday - Conference
Lunch: Volpetti 1 pm - near conference
Dinner @ 8 pm at Checchino

July 23 - Saturday, Conference
Lunch: Volpetti
Gala Evening at Conference

July 24 - Sunday - Conference
Lunch: Volpetti
Dinner - Flavio al Velavevodetto @ 8 pm

July 25 - Monday
Lunch: La Gatta Mangiona (pizza) or L'Arcangelo's (gnocchi) @ 1 pm
Dinner: Trattoria Cadorna – @ 8 pm

July 26 - Tuesday
Lunch: Taverna dei Fori Romana @ 1 pm
Gelato Stop: Il Caruso
Dinner: L'Asino d'Oro or Tempio di Iside or L'Arcangelo @ 8 pm

July 27 - Wednesday
Lunch: La Campana - @ 1 pm
Gelato Stop: Ciampini
Dinner: La Gensola - @ 8 pm

July 28 - Thursday - 1 day trip to Pompei or Naples/Herculaneum

July 29 - Friday
Lunch: Da Danilo for carbonara @ 1 pm
Gelato Stop: Crespino
Dinner: Isole di Sicilia @ 8 pm

July 30 - Saturday
Lunch: Da Sparita or Piperno or Gigetto @ 1 pm
Dinner: Le Maschere - @ 8 pm (opera singing)

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La Campana
Vicolo della Campana, 18, Roma, IT 00186, IT

Trattoria Cadorna
Via Cadorna, 12, Roma 00100, IT

Perilli
Via Marmorata 39, Rome , IT

L'Arcangelo
Via G. G. Belli 59/61, Rome, Lazio 00193, IT

Giggetto
Via del Portico d'Ottavia 21A/22, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

Piperno
Monte de' Cenci, 9, Rome, Lazio , IT

Roscioli
Via dei Giubbonari 21/23, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

La Gensola
Piazza della Gensola, 15, Rome, Lazio 00153, IT

L'Asino d'Oro
Via del Boschetto 73, Rome, Lazio 00184, IT

Da Danilo
Via Petrarca 13, Rome, Lazio , IT

La Gatta Mangiona
Via Federico Ozanam,30, Rome, Lazio 00152, IT

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  1. Mine will be a minority voice around here, but as a former choir singer, I feel a kinship and can't keep quiet. I think most of your choices are pretty blah. I like Checchino, La Gensola, and Piperno. L'Arcangelo is OK too. I didn’t like Flavio the one time I tried it, and my Roman husband particularly didn’t like it. Perilli has good carbonara and a certain atmosphere, but overall I find Checchino's food better. I haven't been to La Campana in a while. It goes up and down. I found Gatta Mangiona decidedly not worth the schlep, but it's near the 44 bus and 8 tram, so it's not too bad a trip. I was hoping to love Tempio di Iside, since I can walk there from home, but it was awful -- inept service, mediocre cooking, uneven quality of ingredients. For serious seafood, go to Il Sanlorenzo, but I also love Tuna. Roma Sparita is nothing special, but the piazza is beautiful. By Volpetti, I presume you mean the tavola calda, Volpetti Più, around the corner from the shop. Both shop and tavola calda are closed on Sunday, but both are wonderful. You sound like a candidate for 00100 (www.00100pizza.com), also in Testaccio but several blocks from Volpetti and Via Galvani, but open on 7 days a week from noon to 11 pm. Finally, unless you're planning a trip to Emilia-Romagna any time soon, as a tenor, you should consider including a meal at Colline Emiliane in memory of Modena's favorite son.

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    La Campana
    Vicolo della Campana, 18, Roma, IT 00186, IT

    Perilli
    Via Marmorata 39, Rome , IT

    L'Arcangelo
    Via G. G. Belli 59/61, Rome, Lazio 00193, IT

    Piperno
    Monte de' Cenci, 9, Rome, Lazio , IT

    Colline Emiliane
    Via degli Avignonesi, 22, Rome, Lazio 00187, IT

    La Gensola
    Piazza della Gensola, 15, Rome, Lazio 00153, IT

    4 Replies
    1. re: mbfant

      I was thrilled with Your response, Maureen. If there's anything a Primo Tenore wants to avoid, it's "blah!" Thank You for your suggestion of San Lorenzo, it's looks fabulous and definitely not blah. I would never have found it otherwise, and it's on! I will try to go to Colline Emiliane at your suggestion to honor Pavarotti. I sang with him in Aida. Speaking of Aida, do you know what Aida's last name is? Well, it's "Pizza", "Aida Pizza"...har har har (sorry, I made that up), so therefore I'll try 00100pizza.com as well, probably Sunday. Thank You again, tenortom

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      Colline Emiliane
      Via degli Avignonesi, 22, Rome, Lazio 00187, IT

      1. re: tenortom

        Looks like by the time you leave Aida's surname will be House. I am going to risk getting everybody all riled up by suggesting Grano -- general outrage at a lapse in judgment on their part in the service charge department; it wasn’t as bad as it seemed and there is an explanation, so I forgive them, but haven't the strength to go into it -- and I just love the food and setting, in Piazza Rondanini, and think you'd like it. Once you've been to Checchino, the others in Testaccio are superfluous unless you really need to be in the nabe for logisitcs, though I will mention that I had a very nice lunch at Felice the other day. Bear in mind that Roman food is wonderful, but the lower to mid-level places can get to seem much of a muchness, and you do want to vary your types. Vino e Camino, at the end of Via Giulia, could make a nice change too. And for good, interesting food with a view, and excellent price-quality ratio, I like Circus, atop the Hotel Fortyseven, near the Ghetto and Mouth of Truth.

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        Grano
        Piazza Rondanini, 53, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

        Vino e Camino
        piazza dell’Oro 6, Rome, Lazio , IT

        1. re: mbfant

          I agree, Vino e Camino is a great choice and was going to write that too. But it seemed you had too many choices as it is.
          And I veer from Maureen, in that I prefer Perilli over Checchino. But to each his own.
          Maureen: you must must must explain the Grano situation!!! We have all struck it off our lists (and me off my app) due to the creepy service charge to foreigners. If there is an explanation, and it makes sense, then you must share it. If only for their sake.

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          Perilli
          Via Marmorata 39, Rome , IT

          Grano
          Piazza Rondanini, 53, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

          Vino e Camino
          piazza dell’Oro 6, Rome, Lazio , IT

          1. re: minchilli

            I have this second hand, but it makes sense. They have, of course, eliminated it, but they say they didn’t apply it across the board to foreigners, but kept it in reserve for cases when, as does happen, a party of foreigners occupies a table all evening and eat only a plate of pasta each. In such cases, they would apply the service charge. This is not a problem with Italians, who either eat more or know it's not nice to occupy prime real estate without spending. Foreigners may well imagine that if they aren't given a bill, nobody is holding their breath for them to leave, when of course that isn't the way it's done here. End of the story: It was an inept response to a real problem rather than a calculated assault on hapless tourists.

    2. Wow! I'm so impressed with your research. Well done!

      All in all, I agree with almost all of your choices. But I'll chime in with some comments.

      Like Maureen, I suggest you branch out from Volpetti Piu for lunch. One day try 00100 and the other you should definitely try Rosticeri'

      I'm not a big Roscioli fan these days. The service is rude, and I (and others) have been served rancid cured meat, as well as cheese off it's prime. All at very high prices.

      I love and endorse your choices of Perilli, Flavio Velavevodetto, La Gatta Mangiona, La Campana, Trattoria Cadorna, Piperno, Gigetto, L'Asino D'Oro, L'Arcangelo and La Gensola. I have been to all recently and had great meals.

      If you are an adventurous foodie (and it seems you are) I would suggest heading further afield to try Tre Zucche or Giuda Ballerino (the trattoria, not the restaurant) for dinner one night.

      Gelato: You are missing some of the best, including Il Gelato (Torce). Depending on your singing breaks, you could conceivably head over to the one on Viale Aventino, not far from Testaccio. And by Crespino I think you mean San Crispino, which is not nearly as good as others these days.

      Have a great trip!
      Elizabeth
      _______
      www.elizabethminchilli.com

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      La Campana
      Vicolo della Campana, 18, Roma, IT 00186, IT

      Trattoria Cadorna
      Via Cadorna, 12, Roma 00100, IT

      Perilli
      Via Marmorata 39, Rome , IT

      L'Arcangelo
      Via G. G. Belli 59/61, Rome, Lazio 00193, IT

      Volpetti Piu
      Via A. Volta, 8-10, Rome, Lazio , IT

      Giggetto
      Via del Portico d'Ottavia 21A/22, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

      Piperno
      Monte de' Cenci, 9, Rome, Lazio , IT

      Roscioli
      Via dei Giubbonari 21/23, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

      La Gensola
      Piazza della Gensola, 15, Rome, Lazio 00153, IT

      La Gatta Mangiona
      Via Federico Ozanam,30, Rome, Lazio 00152, IT

      Flavio al Velavevodetto
      Via di Monte Testaccio 97, Rome, Lazio 00153, IT

      2 Replies
      1. re: minchilli

        It was a great honor to receive your response, Elizabeth. I have been following your blog for some time and have your Rome App! I'm not sure where Rosticeri' is, but I'll try it. I'll be suffering from jet lag and lay overs on the first day which is why I'm looking for a lively place for lunch and came up with Roscioli. Can you suggest any other exciting place for the revelatory state of arriving in Rome but ready to keel over for a first lunch, something with élan and no rude waitstaff? Da Gino's perhaps, or Armando's? Thank You for recommending Tre Zucche! It's looks like a keeper. It's a thrilling elucidation in joie de vivre to read your food blogs...tenortom

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        Roscioli
        Via dei Giubbonari 21/23, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

        1. re: tenortom

          Thanks so much for the kind words about blog and app!
          I mentioned RosticceRi as an alternative to going to Volpetti Piu every day. It's in that neighborhood and is the same type of tavola calda / rosticceria as Volpetti. But a bit more upscale. It's located on Piazza Testaccio 24 - Via Mastrogiorgio 75 (the corner of those two streets)
          Lively lunch place for your first day? If it's not too hot, then I would go to Pierluigi and sit outside. (I know others will not agree) But a plate of perfect spaghetti alle vongole and a glass of white wine in a gorgeous piazza with professional waiters....that's a soft landing.

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          Volpetti Piu
          Via A. Volta, 8-10, Rome, Lazio , IT

          Pierluigi
          Piazza Dè Ricci, 144, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

      2. ok, here goes my 2 cents:
        I still love Roscioli and have a feeling you will, too. That day's gelato stop could be Corona, literally around the corner from Roscioli. Perilli, Checchino, Flavio, Felice, Agustarello, tutti frutti, fiaschetteria (all in testaccio, the last esp. good if one night you feel like a cold dinner only) all have their lovers and haters here, me personally I'd go for Checchino. But there are also 2 very good sit down pizza places in that area, da Remo and Nuovo Mondo. (I'd in general suggest changing your dinner time to 9).
        After one lunch at Volpetti, I'd branch out. I do like 00100 (although they did change their dough a bit, I find; but the suppli and tripizzini are still unbeatable) for one of the other lunches in the area, and another could be a visit to the market and grazing.
        L'Asino d'Oro, La Gensola and La Campana are musts, according to me.
        Wednesday you should add Il Gelato (Torce), the new location at Piazza Monte d'Oro, close to Campana.
        Agree with Tre Zucche and Giuda Ballerino, add Osteria Francescano, Barrili 66.
        And if you one night feel like finer dining without compeltely breaking the bank, there is All'oro and Antico Arco.....

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        La Campana
        Vicolo della Campana, 18, Roma, IT 00186, IT

        Perilli
        Via Marmorata 39, Rome , IT

        Roscioli
        Via dei Giubbonari 21/23, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

        Remo
        Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice, 44, Rome, Lazio 00153, IT

        Agustarello
        Via Giovanni Branca, 100, Rome, Lazio 00153, IT

        La Gensola
        Piazza della Gensola, 15, Rome, Lazio 00153, IT

        L'Asino d'Oro
        Via del Boschetto 73, Rome, Lazio 00184, IT

        Nuovo Mondo
        Via Amerigo Vespucci, 15, Rome, Lazio , IT

        12 Replies
        1. re: vinoroma

          Roscioli does have its charm. First timers need to know that it is primarily a salumi and cheese shop. I'm ok with that and enjoy lunch at a two-top next to the cold case as shoppers wander into/out of the shop. Wines are good (it's a wine shop of some note, too), service can be spotty, burrata is superb. Pastas can be very good. Bread, of course, can be top of the heap.

          Well-off Roman workerbees like to gather after the end of the business day in the back where there are crowded tables, bad art and overworked service. It's all good in the sense that the young professionals seem to clear out by 8 or so and things return to a mere frantic pace.

          I like the place. Lunch, with all its distractions, works best for me. Pasta can be exceptional.

          Edited to add: mbfant's call on Colline Emiliane is spot on. It's a window into a modest but intriguing luncheon destination. As Yogi Berra says, "You can observe a lot just by watching."

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          Roscioli
          Via dei Giubbonari 21/23, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

          1. re: vinoroma

            Thank You so much for your advice, Vinoroma! I've been appreciating your passionate reviews. I will check out your pizza and gelato places. As far as wine, I'm a HUGE oenophile, passionately loving red wine especially, but not knowing Italian reds well enough. I like big, super and powerful reds. I'm dying to taste Valentini's Rosso and Trebbiano if I can find, or afford, any. And the holy grail of wine would be finding a Fiorano Rosso by Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi, prince of Venosa. Do you know if there is any around or is it all gone? I know Checchino's has his Fiorano Bianco which I look forward to trying. I'd love any red wine suggestions! Thank you, again....tenortom

            1. re: tenortom

              "passionately loving red wine especially, but not knowing Italian reds well enough" - well, you know, there are things you can do to change that, cough. Btw, I am not here to change your tastes, but it is one of my life passions that I want white wines of Italy to be appreciated more by everyone. No better time to try some whites than at the end of July in Rome!

              Valentini is not that rare & expensive if you don't want to go too historic. Checchino, Roscioli, Antico Arco, Arcangelo should have some, you can buy bottles at Costantini and Trimani (the former has better prices). I know Primo does but can't really recommend the place when I think of the food.

              As to Fiorano..... the bianco does exist, as the 14,000 bottles were divided mostly among some Roman merchants. The red exists only in some private collections. I was lucky to drink an 88 a year ago at a special tasting and it was the best red (see here what it won against: http://www.bibenda.it/upload/news/002... ). I can ask some people, if you are serious - it will cost you an arm.

              Thinking about red wine suggestions I realized Palatium is missing in your list. That could be your first lunch and you can check out some really nice reds from Lazio. Cerasuolos can be just the right thing for your taste. Also look for (not at Palatium, elsewhere) for Aglianico del Vulture or Sicilians and Sardenians.

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              Antico Arco
              Piazzale Aurelio, 7, Roma 00151, IT

              Palatium
              Via Frattina 94, Roma , IT

              Roscioli
              Via dei Giubbonari 21/23, Rome, Lazio 00186, IT

              1. re: vinoroma

                Palatium is a good idea, probably more for food than wine. But that reminds me: in Testaccio, Divinare, the wine bar, for a glass, a light lunch, or dinner.

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                Palatium
                Via Frattina 94, Roma , IT

                1. re: vinoroma

                  Thank You for your wine advice, Vinoroma! You know, I just am addicted to red wine and having lived in San Francisco so long, I developed a palate for seriously profound reds. I do love Brunello di Montalcino but which is often too expensive here. I did have a superb Brunello here in San Francisco the other night at our "new Roman" restaurant, Locanda. While in Rome, I would loved to try a Valentini vintage made while he was still alive, one of his "Noble Red Wines of Italy." I have read a lot and had some contact with Charles Scicolone who has a wonderful Italian wine blog:
                  http://charlesscicolone.wordpress.com...
                  Charles' insights into Valentini and Fiorano Rosso are superb. I want to try a bottle of Valentini's red, his Cerasuolo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo as well if I can find them. I don't think I could afford a bottle of the Fiorano rosso. A shop here in San Francisco told me they could get a bottle for $800! I'm perfectly willing to try some Italian whites. In fact, I have a friend accompanying me on the trip who is a huge white wine lover. I always tell her jokingly that drinking white wine is like drinking salad dressing..ha ha. She is definitely looking forward to the Italian whites!!! So far, my favorite white wine is white Chateauneuf du Pape which I think can equal the profundity and struture of a red, truly a white wine for a red wine lover. Now, if You could recommend me an Italian white wine similar Chateauneauf du Pape Blanc....tenortom

                  1. re: vinoroma

                    Hello, vinoroma. Are you by chance related to vinoroma.com which does wine tastings in Roma? I was interestedly reviewing that site!....tenortom

                      1. re: vinoroma

                        OMG! I was considering booking your Italian wine tasting!!! I already had you written into our schedule for possibly Monday, July 25, 5-7. We are a group of 5, but one person doesn't drink wine, so I'm trying to figure out what to do with her (she does drink beer). Che coincidenza!!!

                        1. re: tenortom

                          ciao tenortom, write me an email please so we can discuss privately.....

                          1. re: vinoroma

                            vinoroma, while reading this thread I got so excited about a possible wine tasting event that I emailed the wrong person (because I can't read Italian). Then, I got to the correct website and got even more excited that your site is in English! You may see my at the same time as tenortom. I'm off to discuss with my family. :)

                            1. re: vinoroma

                              I've been out of town for a few days, Vinoroma, and will e-mail you soon! tenortom

                  2. re: vinoroma

                    Thank You steve h. for your response. I just love all you Foodies! I was thinking Roscioli might be fun for a first lunch just off the plane with jet lag. I was interested in the fauna and ambiance as well, with maybe a plate of carbonara and wine. Are there any other "exciting" places you might recommend? Thanks again, tenortom

                  3. That's a very interesting and qualified discussion!

                    I'll try to contribute adding a couple of addresses outside city center, since I've understood from your list you are willing to move around the city to enjoy some special food.

                    La Fucina (dinner) has a "tasting" pizza offer that is unique in Rome. Also as far as prices but it worth every penny in my opinion. Best way to get there is with a taxi or you can get tram 8 and a few minutes walk after.

                    Acquolina in Fleming district is another choise for "serious seafood", mentioning Maureen suggestions.

                    I'm aslo curious to have some more information concerning Flavio al Velavevodetto dislikes. Is it about food? Or service/atmosphere? But maybe it would worth a separate discussion.

                    Anyhow Flavio remains one of my favorite places to eat Roman food, especially during the summer when you can seat in the striking terrace or patio.

                    Enjoy food and your stay in Rome tenortom!

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                    Acquolina
                    Via Antonio Serra, 60, Rome 00191, IT

                    La Fucina
                    Via G. Lunati 25-31, Rome, Lazio , IT

                    2 Replies
                    1. re: tavoleromane

                      We found the food ranged from not memorable to mediocre (the crostata di visciole for dessert was quite good, though) and the service inept. We went only once, but I doubt could ever drag my husband back there. It wasn’t terrace weather, but I went and looked and was underwhelmed. I think Perilli is pretty mediocre too (yes, the carbonara is very good), but better and the service was great at our fairly recent dinner there.

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                      Perilli
                      Via Marmorata 39, Rome , IT

                      1. re: mbfant

                        Thank you for your additions Maureen. I always like to share opinions and experiences about food also when completely different as it is in this case and for 00100 pizza too if I remember well.

                    2. ile:///Users/louissernoff/Documents/Travel/Rome%20Trip%20Food/Rome%20Dining%20Report%20.webarchive

                      Perhaps the OP would find my recent report on a number of the restaurants mentioned in this thread to be of interest. If my attempt to paste it above was unsucessful, you can find it posted on this board on May 20th.