'QUATRE-FOODIES' trying out 'QUATREFOIL' ( long with photos )
- Charles Yu Jul 2, 2011 04:59 PM
Four foodies, including fellow chowhounder skylineR33 and myself, celebrated Canada's Day by having a mini-chowmeet at the highly touted 'Quatrefoil' in Dundas. The incentive behind our willing to make the long, hour plus, drive to a 'culinary wasteland' for dinner rested solely on the credential of the husband and wife ( owner/chef ) team. Both of them apparently honed their skills under two of the most demanding Michelin 3* chefs - Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierre White!
The restaurant was located in a converted residential house with a huge tree-lined patio. Interior decoration was 'white dominated' modern and the ambience warm and cozy.
Our party settled for the $85, 6 course tasting menu. For a corkage of $25, I brought along a 1990 J.J.Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese to pair with the foie gras and dessert courses. Other wines were ordered off the wine list as the meal progresses.
Detail of the meal is as follows:
- Bread selection with Chevril and Tarragon herbed butter. Hot to the hand and emitting gorgeous aroma, these breads must be one of the most delicious 'restaurant breads' in and around the GTA!
- Amuse Bouche - 'Minature cod croquettes with Chipotle aioli and roasted red pepper coulis'. Crispy shell with a creamy yet slightly chewy interior, the piping hot, savoury morsel was delicious and made a good start to the meal.
- Appertizer 1 - 'Sea Scallop, white asparagus, quail egg, broccoli sauce'. The giant, sweet tasting scallop was nicely seared and cooked to a perfect medium rare. The sunny side up quail egg was a nice touch, offering the yolk for the pieces of fried broccoli florets to be dipped into. We all needed extra spoons to scoop up the delicious creamy broccoli sauce ( or soup?! ).
- Appertizer 2 - 'Quail, Chorizo, fennel, goat cheese, tomato jam'. The crispy skin roasted quail was 'just a touch' over-cooked. However, this was perfectly understandable due to the small size of the bird and the fact that we are in 'conservative' Canada and not France. The presence of the Chorizo was to provide the salty component to the dish. Unfortunately, the spiciness of the sauage was a bit too overwhelming! Moreover, we were puzzled by the pairing of the shaved fennel with the thick goat cheese? A more delicate and tangy dressing might be more appropriate?
- Appertizer 3 - 'Foie Gras Torchon, saffron shallots, Jerusalem artichokes, pickled honey mushrooms, Vanilla cream'. First off, plate presentation of this dish was A+! One of the highlight dish of the evening! The smooth, creamy and well seasoned foie was superb. The array of accompliments especially the pickled mushrooms were tasty and most 'interesting'!
Our late-harvest Riesling provides an almost perfect pairing for this dish. BTW, though it was a 1990 'aged Riesling', this wine still exhibits youth and liveliness. Dark ambered colour with honeyed, pineapple, lychee, floral and just a hint of petrol nose and taste, this is a one superb and complex wine!
- Fish Course - 'Wild Scottish Salmon, pea and Mascarpone ravioli, asparagus, peas, Porcini cream'. Although I am not a fan of cooked salmon, however, I did give an approval nod to this perfectly cooked piece of ultra-fresh fish ( crisp outside and rare moist interior ). A testament to the skill of the kitchen! The flavour of both the ravioli and porcini cream were both delicious and very intense. However, the use of both cream and cheese rendered the dish a touch on the heavy side!
- Palette Cleanser - ' Plum and Rhubarb Sorbet'. This was way too sweet for my taste! Not wanting to let it spoiled rather than cleanse my palette, I left it almost untouched.
- Meat Course - ' Venison, baby turnips and carrots, herb spaetzle, carrot marmalade, foie gras sauce'. This was undoubtedly the 'miss' of the evening. Though the double smoked bacon wrapped Venison stripped loin was perfectly cooked, the overall presentation and taste of the dish was very ordinary. The overly creamy and tasteless herb spaetzle and the super-sweet carrot marmalade were a bit redundant and out of place. The root vegetables were undercooked and tasted bitter. All in all, we found this dish to have too many taste components and a bit too ' muddled'!
( By now, we have come to the conclusion that the kitchen has a strong tendency to provide some overly sweet accompliments for the main dishes. As well, the liberal use of cream and cheese rendered most sauces on the 'heavy side'! I have nothing against this 'heavy handed' approach except that I have to work out extra hard to get rid of those calories! Ha! )
Dessert 1 - ''Goat cheese cake, chocolate crumbs, Blackberry sauce and sorbet'. This gorgeous looking 'de-constructed cheese cake' looked more like a Heston Bleumanthal MG creation than a Gordon Ramsay one. Beautiful to the eyes and tasty to the palette, however, once again, I found the S-shaped piece of cheese to be way too heavy, especially towards the end of a multi-course meal!
Dessert 2 - A complimentary ' Dark chocolate fudge topped with dark chocolate wafer, marshmallow and caramel sauce paired with a 10 year old Tawny Port'. It was good, but by now, I was stuffed and my taste buds started to feel numb!
Mignardise - ' Chocolate truffles and Black berries jello '. Too full to eat anymore, just a minute nip to get a taste of the products.
Overall, eventhough there were both hits and misses, the meal on the whole was an enjoyable one and very good value ( Toronto Life's 3* rating was quite correct ). Service was a delight with both wait staff and management extremely friendly, efficient and attentive.
However, in my opinion, it was the 'great company' that made the meal a memorable one!!
Great detailed report ! It is a very satisfying meal. My favorite of the night are the Sea Scallop appetizer and the Foie Gras Torchon. The Goat Cheese cake is one of the better dessert I have in Toronto (which I found the dessert in Toronto is always 'meh' from my experience). I like the dessert at Quartrefoil better than the one I had in the tasting menu of Splendido, C5 and Treadwell recently.
Me too! Guess we 'neighbours' have similar tastes?!! Ha!
However, I wish I could have a few more of those amuse bouche croquettes?! So yummy! May be I was starving then?! Imagine having a whole bowl of those freshly made ones to munch on whilst watching the NBA finals?!
I found the cheese cake too heavy and the chocolate ones too sweet. May be I was too drunk and too full to tell?!!
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Wish I knew you were coming, that's a block from my house! There are a few other places sort of in the area worth visiting (thinking Locke st. in Hamilton, mainly) so you certainly could have done a combo trip but thanks for making the treck west!
Thanks for the review. I've dined at Quatrefoil many times and have found that the hits far outnumber the misses. Generally, the restaurant does not disappoint. Your review is reasonably fair but I've got to respond to one of your comments. As a west-ender living in Burlington I do take exception to the comment "culinary wasteland." I hope that this comment was made with your tongue firmly planted in your cheek. There are many fine restaurants in GTA west and beyond that would rival many of the over-hyped, over-priced Toronto restaurants. Try Blacktree in Burlington sometime... I would put it up against any of the finest Toronto restaurants and Chef Matteo also has a fine pedigree having worked with many of Canada's best known chefs... Michael Stadtlander, Jamie Kennedy, Mark McEwan, etc.
3029 New St, Burlington, ON L7N, CA
Tons of iced water!
You might have a point, however, the venison dish arrived after a fairly long wait. Previous sensation from the plum and rhubarb sorbet had already subsided!
BTW, the chewy overcooked bacon, the overly creamy but tasteless herbed spaetzel ( without the herbs! ) and the undercooked 'bitter' root vegetables also contributed to the dish's unattractiveness and failure!
re: Charles Yu
Thanks for the subsequent reply. Nice to add the context.
Not trying to incite another riot of indignation, but I find I get more of an impression from the details of flavour and texture than I do from the comparisons to foreign restaurants. Though I did have my first 9 course tasting menu abroad in a lovely place on the pier in Aberystwyth in 1987.....
re: Charles Yu
Charles, I sadly beg to differ.
Dundas/Hamilton is NOT a culinary wasteland. Granted the fine dining choices are extremely limited (BUT if you have read Charles' prior postings, so are Toronto's). However there is a growing food culture in this city that focuses on locavore dining and respecting the ingredients or else local family-run establishments that focus on a specific ethnicity or culinary style.
Earth to Table (locavore dining at its best - pizzas and home made baked goods)
Ancaster Old Mill (like the Toronto Old Mill, but done using seasonal, local ingredients, in a valley setting)
Chucks Burger Bar (burgers, fries and poutine done right and with a wide variety of toppings, sadly the service is rarely up to par with the food)
Cheese Shoppe on Locke (great sandwiches made from artisanal cheeses and meats)
Karolina's (Polish family style dining)
Mex-I-Can (Mexican streetfood in an authentic atmosphere)
Chicago Style Pizza Shack (self-explanitory)
Capri (old school red sauce Italian)
Harbour Diner (diner food done right in a comfortable eclectic atmosphere)
Papa Leos (breakfast and lunch done the way Leo wants it done - which is extremely good)
Red Hill Coffee Trade (fair trade coffees roasted locally, guaranteeing fresh, high quality brews)
Detour Coffee (fair trade coffees roasted locally, guaranteeing fresh, high quality brews)
Matsu Sushi (best sushi/Japanese in Hamilton area that definitely goes toe-to-toe with many of Toronto's better sushi places)
The food truck/community shares culture:
Gorilla Cheese (grilled cheese done with artisanal cheeses and breads)
Cupcake Diner (incredible cupcakes brought to you)
Cupcake and Loaf (community share baked goods, focusing on organic, gluten-free, healthy)
Plan B Organic Farms (community shared produce)
Not to mention the Hamilton Farmer's Market, the Ottawa St. Farmer's Market and the smaller farmer's market.
Hamilton may not have a plethora of 3-4 star dining establishments, but "culinary wasteland" it is not. Sorry Charles, I have to call you on this assessment. Perhaps you need to venture further than the QEW and 403...
488 James St N, Hamilton, ON L8L1J1, CA
Chicago Style Pizza Shack
534 Upper Sherman Ave, Hamilton, ON L8V3M1, CA
re: Mike from Hamilton
Well said Mike from Hamilton. As a Toronto resident who lived in Hamilton for a few years, I must agree with you - and Hamilton's food scene has only grown since I've left! I would not only say it's NOT a culinary wasteland, I'd say it's a bit of a foodie gem, well worth exploring.
re: Mike from Hamilton
Even more to add - Rousseau House - try to find a better value than their Tapas Tuesday. Koosh down in Westdale. Bistro 1010 in westdale. Seven Windows has great food but if they don't know you, the service suffers
432 Aberdeen Ave, Hamilton, ON L8P2S2, CA
re: Mike from Hamilton
Just as an FYI, the "culinary wasteland' comment is, I believe, a quote from Toronto Life's print version restaurant guide issue--I haven't seen it in a couple months, but it seems to ring a bell (and to Charles' credit he has the expression in quotes too).
@Mike--you forgot Roma pizza! That's what I miss most about Hamilton...
re: Charles Yu
Make sure to ask for Matteo's Seared Foie Gras - on the weekend it was the most delicious foie gras I've had in years - seared and served with duck breast and duck prosciutto a mango puree, roasted grapes and walnut halves. Then finished with a foam from the rendered foie.
NOT simple at all - but I revelled in the complexity - especially the textures that covered the entire spectrum - from chewy (prosciutto) through to foam (and crunch and sweetness, both from the puree, and the 'burst' of the grape).
I recall talking to David Lee (one of your favourites) about 'name' Toronto chefs - and how few had actually developed protegees (quick; name the chefs developed by the initials in your comment above) - I was trying to compliment David on this point. His reply was also instructive - "It also depends on the trainee!". Just having worked for/under a great chef doesn't mean anything! A close relative worked in (3 of) Marco Pierre White's restaurants (as a swing) and didn't EVER see MPW in the year he was there!
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