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Lunch report: Sonny Bryan's BBQ (SLC)

GroovinGourmet Jun 30, 2011 10:24 AM

Having grown up in Dallas, I was thrilled and somewhat amazed when I saw that Sonny Bryan's was coming to a space in the commercial area at 33 E 11400 S in Sandy. Took them a few weeks to open up, but I made a point to stop by as soon as they announced they were opened.

For those not familiar, Sonny Bryan's is a legendary BBQ name, having had a single location near downtown Dallas for years. It's noteworthy for having elementary school desks in the seating area and a barbecue sauce that drew raves from the likes of Julia Child, among others. It's served in hot sauce and/or mini beer bottles that are kept warm on a hot plate, and it is the standard by which all other bbq sauces s will always be judged.

They went the chain/franchise route several years ago, and the detractors abounded. I remained loyal to the original location and found their outlying branches to be a mixed bag. I'd give the Sandy location an A-

They've recreated the Texas BBQ joint vibe, and I loved the neon Dallas Cowboys helmet on the wall. It's plastered with reviews and articles from tons of different food magazines.

I went with a 3/4 lb dinner plate with sliced brisket and jalapeño sausage. I went with slaw and bbq beans for the sides. The brisket was pretty good... significant bark and smoke ring, good texture if slightly on the dry side, but not the kind of smoke flavor I recall from years of eating at the original. My last order of "wet" brisket at Sugarhouse BBQ and the brisket at Kaiser's are a better representation IMNSHO.

The sausage was great... they serve Eckrich kielbasa style sausage at the original, and this version is much more akin to the exemplary sausages found in Central Texas.

Beans were flavorful, but slightly undercooked (I arrived right at opening time on a Sunday morning) and the slaw was decidedly dry for my tastes. Meals are sided with a tasty roll (extras available) and they have a condiment station with onion slices, relish and dill pickles.

Service was quick, friendly and fairly attentive.

I will definitely return... plenty of other meats to try and the sausage will remain in the rotation.

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