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Where should a foodie live in Paris?

GourmetPage Jun 26, 2011 03:55 PM

I'm moving to Paris for a few months in the fall (lucky me) and I'm trying to figure out the best arrondissement to live in to be close to wine bars, bistros, and good markets to do some home cooking. I do realize Paris has fabulous food around every corner and the great transportation puts you close to anything in minutes, but where would the best spot be for a single, 40 year old foodie to live with the best access. Loaded question I know, but thanks for the help.

  1. c
    clbtx Jun 29, 2011 01:54 AM

    I moved to Paris for work at the beginning of January. I live in the 15h near the Rue de Commerce and just love this area. This is a more residential area - very few tourist spots - but lots of great shops/boutiques/restaurants for day-to-day living.

    What I'm trying to say is you won't make a wrong choice! :-)

    1 Reply
    1. re: clbtx
      Beach Chick Jun 29, 2011 06:58 AM

      ; )

    2. Laidback Jun 27, 2011 08:45 AM

      I think Phil has a good point with his wealth comment. Don't shy away from the 7th, particularly the neighborhood around Ecole Militaire if you can afford it because it has an abundance of good restaurants, cafés, a prime market on Ave. Saxe and is an easy walk to the excellent Ave. Wilson market. It also has the advantage of abundant green spaces and wide avenues as well as the Rodin and Orsay Museums. This being said, every neighborhood mentioned above has its own individual charm. I particularly like the St. Georges area in the ninth, the Lamarck-Caulaincourt area in the 18th and the area in the 17th around Rue de Levis. My guess is that you are going to love whichever neighborhood you select.

      3 Replies
      1. re: Laidback
        GourmetPage Jun 27, 2011 10:09 AM

        Thank you all for your opinions. The lively debate just shows that it doesn't look like there's a bad choice in Paris, but I appreciate the additional background on some of the arrondissements. I look forward to going and seeing where I may feel most comfortable!

        1. re: GourmetPage
          Parigi Jun 27, 2011 03:25 PM

          "Lively debate" does not mean I disagree with the others. I fully agree that everyone has an intensely personal experience with his own neighborhood in Paris. It is the process of falling in love. You will know what I mean…
          Please report back.

        2. re: Laidback
          forestqueen56 Jul 11, 2011 04:36 PM

          Love the Caulaincourt area. Also like Butte Chaumont, but not sure about markets there and it may be a bit out of the way. Both are very homey, comfortable feeling areas.

        3. s
          schoenick Jun 27, 2011 05:48 AM

          I lived in the 8th for almost 2 years. Loved it. Yes, there are tourists but where I lived on rue Washington, my butcher was across the street, the best bakery in Paris (in my opinion) was across the street and up one block. There were 7 restaurants on my block without even turning a corner. Around the corner was Tallivenat and I walked to Maison du Chocolate. With multiple metro stops within blocks, i could pretty much get anywhere in the city quickly. Loved it! and miss it dearly.

          1. PhilD Jun 27, 2011 05:25 AM

            How wealthy are you? Not meant to be rude but for many it is what determines where they live in Paris. Nearly all areas have their food virtues but (for example) you wil find that the price difference between the 6/7th and the 17th a sobering piece of data for many. And it goes without sayiong that a few thousand euro saved on an apartment a month pays for lots of metro and bus tickets.

            1 Reply
            1. re: PhilD
              Parigi Jun 27, 2011 05:49 AM

              In terms of markets, the 10th which has relatively reasonable real estate is extremely spoiled.

            2. Parigi Jun 27, 2011 01:36 AM

              Am so chauvistic about the 9th, in the middle of rue des Martyrs, rue Lepic, rue Cadet (Kosher), place d'Anvers and place de la Bourse (both weekly maraîchers markets with excellent poissonneries, and the former has Weird Vegetable Lady and the wonderful and wonderfully cheap boucher Warin). I stopped counting how many award-winning boulangeries are within walking distance. In fact we bought our apartment for its proximity to the fabulous market street rue des Martyrs.
              And the other very funky market street - rue du Faubourg St Denis - is a 15 min walk away.

              If you point a gun at me and force me to move, I'd choose the 11th for the proximity to Aligre and Richard Lenoir markets, and the 5th for its history and beauty and … its markets.
              That's the thing about Paris. I agree with Pti in the other, excellent thread about where to live in terms of market proximity, that if one avoids the hoods with wealthy inhabitants, one will be ok market-wise. Let me put it this way: Except for the posh and boring arrondissements - you know who you are… - one is never far away from a market.

              You can see pictures of the said Weird Vegetables at the WVL's stand in this article:

              3 Replies
              1. re: Parigi
                PhilD Jun 27, 2011 05:30 AM

                "Except for the posh and boring arrondissements - you know who you are… - one is never far away from a market." - is that strictly true..? I can think of good markets in the 6/7th, 8th and 16th. Not to mention close to the 4th and there are good options close to the islands. When I lived in the 2nd it was a bit of a challenge but we didn't starve.

                1. re: Parigi
                  Ptipois Jun 27, 2011 08:48 AM

                  Yes, but there are great markets even in posh and boring arrondissements. I'd say the most challenged of them would be the 8th. The 16th and 17th (which is only posh for half of its surface) are particularly appealing. And not necessarily more expensive than bobo areas since the old bourgeoisie is known to keep a keen eye on the porte-monnaie and mind their "économie domestique" the old-fashioned way.
                  I am not a fan of my own arrondissement's markets. Place Monge is lovely but is one of the most expensive Paris markets. Place Maubert is slightly better. Whenever I have a chance I get out of the arrondissement to shop for food.
                  If I were to choose, I'd live in one of the Chinatown skyscrapers.

                  1. re: Ptipois
                    Delucacheesemonger Jun 27, 2011 09:05 AM

                    When l lived in Manhattan, my living choice was the NY Chinatown area. Unfortunately l could find no landlord who would rent to a 'round-eye', thus went to UES

                2. p
                  Ptipois Jun 26, 2011 10:28 PM


                  1. Busk Jun 26, 2011 06:32 PM

                    Pretty much any...

                    1. Delucacheesemonger Jun 26, 2011 06:03 PM

                      My apartment is in the 11th near Charonne metro. My two local markets are Place Aligre and Richard Lenoir, IMHO two of the best. 50 restaurants within a three block walk. As you said, not a bad neighborhood in Paris for food, but the 11th has the advantages of being in the middle 'ring' thus easy to get anywhere and also not too expensive as definitely not a touristy arrondisement.

                      1. DaTulip Jun 26, 2011 05:24 PM

                        Here is a recent thread that night be of interest:

                        1 Reply
                        1. re: DaTulip
                          Jake Dear Jun 26, 2011 09:09 PM

                          And another: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/744538

                        2. Beach Chick Jun 26, 2011 04:40 PM

                          I was just about to post the very same post..
                          I love the 7th for the quiet elegance and I have my fave bistros, coffee, wine and marches.
                          The 6th, 16th and the 1st are my second options..
                          Have you been to Paris?
                          Wishing you all the best!

                          1 Reply
                          1. re: Beach Chick
                            GourmetPage Jun 26, 2011 08:49 PM

                            I have been to Paris, but only for a few days over the years - not enough to figure out where I'd want to call home for a little while. I am going later this week to do some apartment hunting and I was just trying to narrow my search.

                            The 11th does look appealing to me. I like all the wine bars that have been opening up. The 1st and 2nd look nice, but perhaps a bit more business focused of an area than I want to be in, despite the proximity to some nice food streets. I like the Marais near the Bastille, and am also thinking about something in the Latin Quarter. It doesn't seem like I can make a bad choice.

                            Thanks for the input!

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