Vegetarian Tamal and Morcilla Taco a Mateo Granados (Healdsburg and Sebastopol)
Finally made it to the Saturday morning farmers market in Healdsburg for my first visit this season. Yes, I needed produce but I was mostly looking forward to a fresh market breakfast at Mateo Granados’ stand and getting an update on his soon-to-open restaurant.
The vegetarian tamal steamed in a banana leaf was topped with tomato-habanero sauce and Redwood Hill’s raw milk feta and served with dressed salad greens and soft white rice. A couple drops of housemade habanero sauce from the bottles on the tables turned up the heat. Stuffed with well-seasoned Swiss chard filling, the masa was dense and velvety, and I didn’t miss meat at all.
But then, a gift from the kitchen. At the end of service, Chef Granados said he had just enough morcilla in the pantry to present me with one taco. He used blood from a Preston Vineyards organic pig to make the black sausage. Bound with a bit of egg, the pile of morcilla on a handmade corn tortilla was topped with a roasted salsa, tangy red cabbage slaw and pickled red onion. Tasting an elusive smokiness somewhere in the mix, I asked whether there was bacon in there. Chef grinned and explained that I was picking up the Spanish pimenton ahumado. As he said, this was his way of reaching across the Atlantic from the Yucatan to unite with a signature flavor of the motherland.
399 Business Park Dr, Windsor, CA