Aupres du Clocher, Pommard
From October 2010
A relative newcomer on the scene having opened some 18 months ago, this modern restaurant in the heart of Pommard seems to be on the lips of everyone at the moment (well 3 people told us about it so I could be exaggerating a little). The chef is ex Lameloise and is obviously technically adept and quite imaginative. The food is a little tricky and some things don't hit the mark.
The wine list here is in building phase and there are some good, well priced selections although not much vintage depth. Young Coche Dury can be had at reasonable prices so we opted for a bottle of 2007 Coche Dury Meursault. This is piercingly young with plenty of Coche gunflint, some green apple, lemons and a huge lick of minerals. It is linear with laser like focus. Our red, the 2005 Thierry Violot-Guillemard Pommard 'Clos Blanc' is also a wine that is too young albeit very good. There's a faint suggestion of flora on the nose along with ripe plums and a little tar. It is rich and forceful in the mouth with sappy, perfumed fruits. There's plenty of earth to the finish and tannins are sweet and chewy.
A complimentary Amuse Bouche of cauliflower soup was well seasoned and delicious. A just cooked through scallop adorned the centre of the soup. For entree my scallops with black pudding and mashed pumpkin was presented artistically and was extremely tasty. Heidi' de-construction of Ouefs Meurette was somewhat less successful. The egg was 'molecular gastronomy'd' into a weird sphere shape and there were also snails added to accompany strips of pancetta. The red wine broth was serviceable.
For main course an excellent fillet of Sandre (a freshwater fish), lay atop some mashed potatoes with pieces of mackerel and swum in a pool of cream and chives, very satisfying. Again Heidi's main was a little too 'Terry try hard' and was a kind of Coq au Vin in cannelloni with baby vegetables. The cheese course was inventive and sublime. Epoisses on a mini baguette was served next to a glass with epoisses foam and some chunks of pain d'epice at the bottom, in which you dipped the baguette. Desserts were very good, strawberry croustillant with a panna cotta filling for me and a tart tatin with green apple sorbet and a caramel sauce for Heidi.
The children were well looked after here with chef preparing some delicious fish with potatoes for them followed by green apple sorbet. Service is very good and friendly and the dining room is spacious and comfortable.