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3 men in Burgundy want it ALL. Need help!

s
Strauss Jun 17, 2011 11:18 AM

Hi all,

Two of my friends and me will be heading to Burgundy this August. All of us are wine and food enthousiasts, and we're looking to do something special over the course of 3/4 days.

We'll be staying in the vicinity of Beaune probably.

Now.... I could just look up some wineries south of Dijon in the well known areas and book tastings, heck we'll be doing that anyway. (I have my Wine Opus sitting next to me as we speak) Also, we'll be visiting restaurants a plenty and downing enough Charolais, Canard, Foie Gras and Truffles to sink a battleship. Done and done. That stuff's all easy. (really I don't mean it as blaise as it sounds)

What kind of restaurant tips can the great community of Chowhound give us for a really new experience? What kind of special places must we go to get some really cool wine experiences? Where can we taste a vast amount of different burgundies without signing off on a kidney or two? We've eaten truffle risotto, charolais etc before: where can we get whole duck a la financiere?! Where is that butcher who'll serve us his tartare straight off the bone? Where is the domaine that will delight us with it's wares?

So dear community: SHOOT! Give us your best, your inside info, your shady foodstuff dealers who sell squiggly bits with maddeningly deep pinot noir?!

We love us some white burgundy aged in wood. I personally have a preference for New Zealand Pinot (slightly less acid, and more of the crazy foresty mushroomy flavors: or have I just been tasting the wrong Burgundy? I know, burgundy is a tough lover, difficult to find the right stuff!)

In short...... we want it ALL....and we're willing to drive anywhere between Dijon and Lyon to get it!

And we need help!

Sooooo...... HELP!?

Pretty please?!

I'll be posting a trip report if we get any good feedback, you can be sure.

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  1. DaTulip RE: Strauss Jun 17, 2011 01:13 PM

    Love the title of your post! Makes me think of a moving company here in the States, 3 Men & a Truck. Anyhoo, sounds like a big fun time and it sounds like you already have most things I'd recommend figured out. I'll think on it and post something a little later (after work ;-)). I will recommend (as I always do) our friends at Detours in France (www.detoours-in-france.com). Florent, Sarah, and Jerome are great and could definately come up with something stellar.

    One thing to note is that it is looking like harvest will be early this year (in August) - vestiges of 2003 I hear. This may impact your ability to taste depending on when the harvest actually occurs vs when you turn up there.

    18 Replies
    1. re: DaTulip
      s
      Strauss RE: DaTulip Jun 17, 2011 02:38 PM

      weekend of the 19th. Better in July?

      1. re: Strauss
        DaTulip RE: Strauss Jun 18, 2011 09:00 AM

        July is beautiful!

        I havent really been able to think of things I haven't recommended before. One place I wouldn't miss is Fromagerie Gaugry. Frui Rouge has great jam. On the wine side, I enjoy the wine lunches at Oliver LeFlaive, Comte Senard, or Pierre Bouree. One of my favorite vintners is open to the public - Michel Voarick in Aloxe-Corton. Will share more if I come up with something.

        You might search the boards for more.

        1. re: DaTulip
          mangeur RE: DaTulip Jun 18, 2011 11:03 AM

          A hearty yes to Gaugry. Another interesting side trip (about 7 miles east of Nuits St. Georges) is the Abbaye Citeaux where monks silently sell their lovely and famed cheese.

          http://www.citeaux-abbaye.com/citeaux...

          1. re: mangeur
            DaTulip RE: mangeur Jun 18, 2011 09:12 PM

            Have they reopened? Last November they were closed. They'd done some cleaning/sprucing up & introduced some wierd bacteria. They weren't producing cheese at that point until they figured it all out. I'm guessing they're back on track or it would have been big news.

            1. re: DaTulip
              s
              Strauss RE: DaTulip Jun 20, 2011 02:02 AM

              Gaugry and the Monks sound like a very good Idea, we'll probably head in for either one: good tip, thanks!

              Anyone know of an awesome butcher where I can get Charollais cote d boeuf to grill up for ourselves?

              1. re: Strauss
                j
                jeremyholmes RE: Strauss Jun 21, 2011 07:23 PM

                At the Beaune market (Wednesday and Saturday) there is a butcher in the pavillion that has excellent beef. The butcher in Meursault is also very good.

                1. re: jeremyholmes
                  BlueOx RE: jeremyholmes Jun 22, 2011 05:20 AM

                  JH, if its the same butcher that friends in Puligny have recommended to us at the Beaune Market, his shop is in Pommard and he has an interest in the new restaurant in Pommard.

                  1. re: BlueOx
                    Jake Dear RE: BlueOx Jun 22, 2011 07:22 AM

                    "[T]he new restaurant in Pommard" -- do you have the name of that, please?

                    1. re: Jake Dear
                      Parigi RE: Jake Dear Jun 22, 2011 07:35 AM

                      My eys also orbited on this one...

                      1. re: Jake Dear
                        BlueOx RE: Jake Dear Jun 22, 2011 08:34 AM

                        The place in Pommard is next to the butcher shop and was "new" last September when we were there. Didn't get to try it, but will this September when we return for our annual bike trip. On our trip, bikes are just a way to travel between tastings :>)

                        1. re: BlueOx
                          DaTulip RE: BlueOx Jun 22, 2011 09:15 AM

                          Could it be Aupres du Clocher?
                          www.aupresduclocher.com

                          1. re: DaTulip
                            Jake Dear RE: DaTulip Jun 22, 2011 09:21 PM

                            "Could it be Aupres du Clocher?" That's what I was wondering. Our hotel in Pommard (Hotel Clos du Colombier) has recommended it, and the web site looks good -- but I'd be interested to hear reviews. -- Jake

                            1. re: Jake Dear
                              j
                              jeremyholmes RE: Jake Dear Jun 22, 2011 09:50 PM

                              I'll post our review on it from last year.

                            2. re: DaTulip
                              DaTulip RE: DaTulip Jun 23, 2011 08:48 AM

                              My friend confirms that Aupres du Clocher is indeed the restaurant owned by the Pommard butcher. They just ate there recently to celebrate a birthday and said that it was "excellent".

                              She also recommends (I think she actually said swears by) butcher Monsieur Vossot in Beaune - on the same street as Hotel Le Cep.

                              1. re: DaTulip
                                Jake Dear RE: DaTulip Jun 23, 2011 09:07 AM

                                DaTulip, Thanks for this follow-up (and agian for JH's review) -- we'll give it a go in September, and report back. -- Jake

              2. re: DaTulip
                m
                masha RE: DaTulip Jun 19, 2011 08:12 AM

                In addition to the wine lunch at Olivier LeFlaive, there is a package available that includes a visit into the vineyards with a vineculturist (? -- i.e, their grape-growing speciailist), who discusses the agriculture, as well as a visit to the caves, where you can see the wine-making and storage facilities. Pretty cool. We were their during vendage, so the wine-making was in full swing. Even got a chance to personally do some of the mashing of the grapes -- with a long handled tool similar to a potato masher, not barefooted like Lucy & Ethel.

                1. re: DaTulip
                  s
                  Strauss RE: DaTulip Jun 21, 2011 03:22 PM

                  VERY good Tips Tulip. If you don't mind me asking: why Aloxe-Corton. You seem to prefer it over other areas. (Senard and Voarick).

                  1. re: Strauss
                    DaTulip RE: Strauss Jun 21, 2011 07:12 PM

                    Don't mind you asking at all. I'm actually not sure really. The area north of Beaune up to Nuits St. George is a favorite of mine, esp. around the Corton hill (Aloxe, Pernand-Vergelesses, Savigny, etc.) Maybe it is due to our first cycling trip in the area where I felt that I was going to die (I'm not exactly in the best shape), but then we stopped at Senard for the wine lunch and I was revived! I just find the area beautiful and the people friendly. Lucien Jacob that Chef June recommended is in the area too. I personally perfer the casis at Chateau l'Ange Gardien. They have a shop in Beaune now where several locals I know pick up their bag in box too.

                    If pressed, I think I actually like Beaune the best. Check out 3 Epis for bread and maybe Bouche on the Place Monge for chocolates. As J. Holmes said Alain Hess is great for more cheese.

                    The market at Dijon is my fav. So many wonderful things. I'd recommended it highly if you have the time.

                    A restaurant we tried for the first time last year is Chez Janette in Fixin - very goood traditional cooking and great owner!

                    I don't know a good butcher, but I've put the question to my friend and will report back if she comes back with anything.

                    If you want other dining/wine recos in the area there are a few threads that are relevant if you put Beaune in the search. Seems like you might have that covered though.

            2. j
              jeremyholmes RE: Strauss Jun 17, 2011 04:16 PM

              Strauss,

              In Beaune here’s a few suggestions;

              Ma Cuisine: homely cooking, good game and fabulous desserts. Excellent wine list.

              Bissoh: Japanese fusion food, nice twists on some of the regions famous dishes

              Caveau des Arches: Great value, regional food. Very good, well priced wine list.

              Le Conty: casual dining, well prepared food, nice wine list with a few hidden gems.

              Les Caves Madeleine: Small place, great hospitality, select a well priced wine from the wall.
              Loiseau des Vignes: More formal, perhaps a little dear for what it is but a very good selection of rare wines on by the glass.

              L’Ecusson: The food is really good here. The lunch menu is a bargain, service excellent and the wine list has some depth and is well priced.

              Fancy Pants Dining;

              Lameloise in Chagny (about 20 minutes from Beaune) is a 3 star that is on fire at the moment, well worth visiting.

              Troisgros in Roanne, 2 hour’s drive south is a 3 star and just about the best restaurant on the planet.

              Chapeau Rouge in Dijon is serving thoughtful, modern food. We haven’t eaten here in a few years but I think they still have a star.

              Other Restaurants in the region;

              Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin has had a makeover and does good business. Their rotisserie meats are good and wine list is solid.

              La Cabotte in Nuits-St-Georges is an excellent, modern restaurant with competent cooking and an ever improving wine list.

              Le Chambolle in Chambolle-Musigny is ‘old school’, hearty food and you can buy the likes of an older Mugnier Chambolle for not a lot of dollars.

              Le Chassagne in Chassagne-Montrachet just got a star. The food is inventive and very good and the wine list is heavy on great white Burgundies and fairly priced.

              La Ferme de la Ruchotte is a singular experience with food grown on the property. Only open Sat and Sun for lunch, you must book but it is worth a visit.

              Aupres du Clocher in Pommard is a relative newcomer serving inventive, modern food. You can drink Coche-Dury Meursault here at reasonable prices.

              Le Terroir in Santenay is well priced, regional food. The service is warm and inviting and wine list solid.

              Cheese and Wine
              Alain Hess on the Place Carnot in Beaune is a fabulous cheese shop. They affineur cheese for many of the regions finest restaurants and sell perfectly ripened Epoisses, Reblechon, Citeaux, Comte as well as a very pleasant young cheese they invented called Delice de Pommard. They also have a good selection of top wines in the small wine retail area at the back.

              Magnum is a good wine shop in the heart of Beaune. It has plenty of hard to get stuff as well as loads of back-vintage treats.

              Enjoy the region.

              Cheers
              Jeremy

              1. ChefJune RE: Strauss Jun 21, 2011 09:00 AM

                A stellar, don't-miss place that many seem not to know about is Domaine Lucien Jacob in Echevronne. They are a winery, to be sure, but their wines are rather "meh." What they do make better (arguably) than anyone is Cassis, Framboise and Mure. You need an appointment to go for a tasting, but I highly recommend it!

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