3 men in Burgundy want it ALL. Need help!
Two of my friends and me will be heading to Burgundy this August. All of us are wine and food enthousiasts, and we're looking to do something special over the course of 3/4 days.
We'll be staying in the vicinity of Beaune probably.
Now.... I could just look up some wineries south of Dijon in the well known areas and book tastings, heck we'll be doing that anyway. (I have my Wine Opus sitting next to me as we speak) Also, we'll be visiting restaurants a plenty and downing enough Charolais, Canard, Foie Gras and Truffles to sink a battleship. Done and done. That stuff's all easy. (really I don't mean it as blaise as it sounds)
What kind of restaurant tips can the great community of Chowhound give us for a really new experience? What kind of special places must we go to get some really cool wine experiences? Where can we taste a vast amount of different burgundies without signing off on a kidney or two? We've eaten truffle risotto, charolais etc before: where can we get whole duck a la financiere?! Where is that butcher who'll serve us his tartare straight off the bone? Where is the domaine that will delight us with it's wares?
So dear community: SHOOT! Give us your best, your inside info, your shady foodstuff dealers who sell squiggly bits with maddeningly deep pinot noir?!
We love us some white burgundy aged in wood. I personally have a preference for New Zealand Pinot (slightly less acid, and more of the crazy foresty mushroomy flavors: or have I just been tasting the wrong Burgundy? I know, burgundy is a tough lover, difficult to find the right stuff!)
In short...... we want it ALL....and we're willing to drive anywhere between Dijon and Lyon to get it!
And we need help!
I'll be posting a trip report if we get any good feedback, you can be sure.
Love the title of your post! Makes me think of a moving company here in the States, 3 Men & a Truck. Anyhoo, sounds like a big fun time and it sounds like you already have most things I'd recommend figured out. I'll think on it and post something a little later (after work ;-)). I will recommend (as I always do) our friends at Detours in France (www.detoours-in-france.com). Florent, Sarah, and Jerome are great and could definately come up with something stellar.
One thing to note is that it is looking like harvest will be early this year (in August) - vestiges of 2003 I hear. This may impact your ability to taste depending on when the harvest actually occurs vs when you turn up there.
July is beautiful!
I havent really been able to think of things I haven't recommended before. One place I wouldn't miss is Fromagerie Gaugry. Frui Rouge has great jam. On the wine side, I enjoy the wine lunches at Oliver LeFlaive, Comte Senard, or Pierre Bouree. One of my favorite vintners is open to the public - Michel Voarick in Aloxe-Corton. Will share more if I come up with something.
You might search the boards for more.
My friend confirms that Aupres du Clocher is indeed the restaurant owned by the Pommard butcher. They just ate there recently to celebrate a birthday and said that it was "excellent".
She also recommends (I think she actually said swears by) butcher Monsieur Vossot in Beaune - on the same street as Hotel Le Cep.
In addition to the wine lunch at Olivier LeFlaive, there is a package available that includes a visit into the vineyards with a vineculturist (? -- i.e, their grape-growing speciailist), who discusses the agriculture, as well as a visit to the caves, where you can see the wine-making and storage facilities. Pretty cool. We were their during vendage, so the wine-making was in full swing. Even got a chance to personally do some of the mashing of the grapes -- with a long handled tool similar to a potato masher, not barefooted like Lucy & Ethel.
Don't mind you asking at all. I'm actually not sure really. The area north of Beaune up to Nuits St. George is a favorite of mine, esp. around the Corton hill (Aloxe, Pernand-Vergelesses, Savigny, etc.) Maybe it is due to our first cycling trip in the area where I felt that I was going to die (I'm not exactly in the best shape), but then we stopped at Senard for the wine lunch and I was revived! I just find the area beautiful and the people friendly. Lucien Jacob that Chef June recommended is in the area too. I personally perfer the casis at Chateau l'Ange Gardien. They have a shop in Beaune now where several locals I know pick up their bag in box too.
If pressed, I think I actually like Beaune the best. Check out 3 Epis for bread and maybe Bouche on the Place Monge for chocolates. As J. Holmes said Alain Hess is great for more cheese.
The market at Dijon is my fav. So many wonderful things. I'd recommended it highly if you have the time.
A restaurant we tried for the first time last year is Chez Janette in Fixin - very goood traditional cooking and great owner!
I don't know a good butcher, but I've put the question to my friend and will report back if she comes back with anything.
If you want other dining/wine recos in the area there are a few threads that are relevant if you put Beaune in the search. Seems like you might have that covered though.
In Beaune here’s a few suggestions;
Ma Cuisine: homely cooking, good game and fabulous desserts. Excellent wine list.
Bissoh: Japanese fusion food, nice twists on some of the regions famous dishes
Caveau des Arches: Great value, regional food. Very good, well priced wine list.
Le Conty: casual dining, well prepared food, nice wine list with a few hidden gems.
Les Caves Madeleine: Small place, great hospitality, select a well priced wine from the wall.
Loiseau des Vignes: More formal, perhaps a little dear for what it is but a very good selection of rare wines on by the glass.
L’Ecusson: The food is really good here. The lunch menu is a bargain, service excellent and the wine list has some depth and is well priced.
Fancy Pants Dining;
Lameloise in Chagny (about 20 minutes from Beaune) is a 3 star that is on fire at the moment, well worth visiting.
Troisgros in Roanne, 2 hour’s drive south is a 3 star and just about the best restaurant on the planet.
Chapeau Rouge in Dijon is serving thoughtful, modern food. We haven’t eaten here in a few years but I think they still have a star.
Other Restaurants in the region;
Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin has had a makeover and does good business. Their rotisserie meats are good and wine list is solid.
La Cabotte in Nuits-St-Georges is an excellent, modern restaurant with competent cooking and an ever improving wine list.
Le Chambolle in Chambolle-Musigny is ‘old school’, hearty food and you can buy the likes of an older Mugnier Chambolle for not a lot of dollars.
Le Chassagne in Chassagne-Montrachet just got a star. The food is inventive and very good and the wine list is heavy on great white Burgundies and fairly priced.
La Ferme de la Ruchotte is a singular experience with food grown on the property. Only open Sat and Sun for lunch, you must book but it is worth a visit.
Aupres du Clocher in Pommard is a relative newcomer serving inventive, modern food. You can drink Coche-Dury Meursault here at reasonable prices.
Le Terroir in Santenay is well priced, regional food. The service is warm and inviting and wine list solid.
Cheese and Wine
Alain Hess on the Place Carnot in Beaune is a fabulous cheese shop. They affineur cheese for many of the regions finest restaurants and sell perfectly ripened Epoisses, Reblechon, Citeaux, Comte as well as a very pleasant young cheese they invented called Delice de Pommard. They also have a good selection of top wines in the small wine retail area at the back.
Magnum is a good wine shop in the heart of Beaune. It has plenty of hard to get stuff as well as loads of back-vintage treats.
Enjoy the region.
A stellar, don't-miss place that many seem not to know about is Domaine Lucien Jacob in Echevronne. They are a winery, to be sure, but their wines are rather "meh." What they do make better (arguably) than anyone is Cassis, Framboise and Mure. You need an appointment to go for a tasting, but I highly recommend it!