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Jun 15, 2011 07:01 PM

Les Papilles

Thought I'd post on a few dining experiences from October last year;

Aussie wine journo Nick Stock was in Paris last week and sent us a text demanding that we go to this wine bar in the 5th, we duly obliged. It is however unfair to deem this establishment a wine bar as it is serving some of the most outstanding Bistro food in Paris.

We met up with some friends from Geelong and chose two bottles from the shelves on the wall, whereby 7 Euros corkage is added for drinking within the restaurant. The 2007 Latour Giraud Meursault ‘Cuvee Charles Maxime’ was restrained, emitting the faintest whiff of straw and lemons. Fine and linear in the mouth with good precision and decent length. 1992 is a red Burgundy vintage that is generally maligned by the so called wine cognoscenti, don’t be fooled, there are some splendid drinks from this year and the Dominique Laurent Chambolle-Musigny ‘Derriere la Grange’ is case in point. Beautiful aromatics of red fruits, decaying leaf, freshly tilled earth and pine needle sap. Sweet and vinous in the mouth with a sensual, lacy texture and a savoury closure leaving a mushroom imprint on the palate.

The thing to do here is order the Chef’s degustation, for 35 euros you get a starter, main, cheese and dessert and are left in the hands of the chef. Our starter was a carrot soup that had the most brilliant broth laden with shredded carrot and bacon, it was quite simply ‘souperb’ (sorry). A large casserole dish was placed in the centre for us to help ourselves to a wonderful slow braise of pork with tomatoes, potatoes and thyme. As the lid was lifted an intoxicating, earthy aroma filled the room.

Goats curd was served with freshly chopped chives and a perfectly dressed bunch of greens. Dessert was the most rich, dark chocolate mousse with a caramel foam adorned on top, words can’t describe how good this was so I’ve included my description of how good this was in brackets ( ). An accompanying 2008 Uroulat Jurancon burst with honeyed fruits, showing restrained exoticism and spiky, fresh pineapple like acidity.

This is an outstanding place withy great service, atmosphere and food. The best quality ingredients are prepared simply but perfectly and all food is incredibly wine friendly. We will be returning soon, perhaps tomorrow….thanks for the reco Stocky!


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  1. Oh, I'm so glad you enjoyed it. LP has our heart, as does Bertrand Bley, the owner. It is traditionally our first night dinner, allowing us to segue into the French experience with a warm welcome, brilliant comfort food, always letting Bertrand choose a bottle for us to complement the evening's menu.

    1. Great review - we can't wait to try this restaurant when we're there in September. I can already tell that we'll be sorry we didn't book to go for 2 nights!

      1. Must agree with Jeremy's write up. We arrived in Paris on Saturday and as this I around the corner from our hotel we dropped in for lunch. It really is perfect for a first meal. As it is just before Christmas most of the restaurant was taken up by a large family group and their children - quite a celebratory atmosphere.

        We started with a very fine cauliflower soup and nearly finished the communal bowl it was that good. Next slow cooked beef dish, wonderful flavours with a deep intense sauce that went well with the carrots, potatoes etc. A small slice of fourme d'ambert with a candied/stewed fig, and then dessert of pannacotta with a caramel sauce. All this was washed down by a great Cote du Py (Morgon). At $33 a head for the food it is a really great bargain.

        1 Reply
        1. re: PhilD

          Some photos from our meal....

        2. We have reservations for LP in a few weeks. It came highly recommended by a friend!!! I cannot wait to try it!!!

          1. I'm looking for help with the carte. I see a choice for the degustation, as described - called "retour du marche." Then, I see "marmite du marche" directly under that for half price. What is that?

            Also, they seem to offer an entree/plat option for $24, but I'm thinking this might be one of the few places I splurge for the whole menu.

            I'm thinking this might be the one place I hit up twice - one day for lunch, and to pick up stuff for dinner at home, the next for the dinner. I just extended my trip to 16 days. Lordy.

            2 Replies
            1. re: saticoy

              A "marmite" is a small casserole and their lunch menu is usually built around a casserole type dish. So the €16 marmite du marche is simply the main course without starter or dessert. Thus you can choose between one and four courses.

              1. re: PhilD

                merci - I think I need them all!