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Jun 13, 2011 08:04 AM

Redd's in Rozzie... Rough and Ready.

Four of us ate at Charlie Redd's (formerly of Coda) chef owned restaurant replacing Geoffrey's in Roslindale Village. What's ready? Food was remarkably good and fills a niche; mid priced southern food by a CIA trained chef who grew up in the Carolinas. Hush puppies were crisp and light with a bacon and onion ragout to complement. Pulled pork sandwich (with one side) was tasty and enormous and my side of beans was excellent and a little healthier option than the fries but not as healthy as the salad. It was very good value for $10. Fluke, gnocchi and chickpea casserole were all enjoyed. Desserts are enormous and tasty. Bottled beers are pricey but cocktails are cheap (both $7), if not best in show.

What's rough? Service was poor and amateurish. Three different waitresses served our table with no coordination. Several mistakes (a dessert that didn't show up; a beer that was charged but not received; long waits for ordering and service). The house comped the dessert, which was a nice gesture. The place is new so they may be still getting their house in order. Please go for the food though. I have hopes for chef owned place that other cities (e.g Portland ME) do well and I welcome such enterprises in our fair city.

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  1. Fantastic gourmaniac! I've been trying to think of an opportunity to get over there. Glad you forged the way. Thanks for the nudge.

    1. odd. i found virtually no smoke in my (marginally) dry pulled pork , which i found strange as the chef is from the south. heads up! the bbq sauce is an eastern north carolina vinegar based sauce, not tomato based, (surprised my dining comapanions) the chickpea casserole is o.k. though a bit overpriced at 14.00, stuffed eggs probably the highlight of the meal. i liked the feel of the place, just wanted to like the food more. worth one more try.

      7 Replies
      1. re: hyde

        I liked the vinegar based sauce which is certainly authentic to the area as you say, but may not be to everyone's taste. I find most places add too much tomato based/hickory sauce which seems sloppy joeish to me. I also liked the combination of cole slaw on one bun with meat on the other. Smoke was a little weak but it is the north after all.

        1. re: gourmaniac

          Do y'all happen to know if the butts are truly smoked and what kind of wood and apparatus Charlie is cranking with ? And was it Eastern or Lexington style (Lex per menu) ?

          I'm very eager to get there for a proper biscuit brunch. Hope.

          1. re: Nab

            Hi Nab: No answer for you on either. I've only had pulled pork once in NC. I did not see or smell a smoker. There was some smokiness to the meat, more noticaeble with next day leftovers eaten cold. It passed the "i can't get the smell off my hands" test.

            1. re: gourmaniac

              Hey gourmaniac,

              5 months later, and I finally made it.

              Thought of you as I attempted to scale a mountain of brunch.

              The Haymaker: biscuits, eggs, cheese, sausage, bacon, fried chicken, sausage gravy, caramelized onions. A competition-eating dish you actually wanna eat.

              Biscuits I don't think are the buttery fluffery, but then again it's hard to know underneath a mountain of tasty slop.

              Unlike hyde's experience above, I thought the pulled pork had just about reached my threshold for smoke (hickory/apple, btw). Depression-era portion of pork, but considering the sandwich was a side order, maybe that was a good thing. The fries are some of my favourites around - medium-thickness, fresh-cut, skin-on, lightly crispy and plenty spudly. Love this place. Coming back for shrimp and grits very soon.

              1. re: Nab

                Hi Nab: Wow the Haymaker sounds impressive. Equally impressive get a pulled pork sandwich on the side with that. How was their fried chicken?

                1. re: gourmaniac

                  Any shortcomings were certainly masked by a smothering of sausage gravy, but it was a dark bronze boob, seemingly aggressively seasoned, and retaining crisp.

                  BTW, I notice the current dinner menu has "Butterfish Boquerones". Call the police ! Or The Globe ! ;)

                  1. re: gourmaniac

                    Another wacky offering at Redd's is "Huevos Alejandro the Great - pork cutlet, eggs sunny side up, aji, crema, mole, cilantro." It worked surprisingly well, only shortcoming was the too-thick cutlet having been over-fried and unevenly cooked.

        2. We've gone to Redd's a few times now and really like it. The first time we definitely felt some of the roughness--they forgot my entree. They did act totally horrified and gave us a pretty stellar dessert to make up for it. It was a warm banana bread with homemade ice cream. I usually hate bananas, but this was so good, that I didn't mind the bananas so much. Can't remember the ice cream flavor, but know we liked it.

          I've had brunch there once and really enjoyed my bacon/egg/cheese biscuit, but could barely finish it. I got it with grits on the side which were great. The whole thing was super rich and I felt if I ate it all, I may have to be rolled out of there.

          I really dig the Left Hand Milk Stout they have on tap and the Berkshire River Ale, too. I also really liked the Asparagus salad w/ Benton's country ham and a poached egg.

          I'm glad to have this spot in the neighborhood--the bartenders and chef (he delivered our food once) seem really earnest and nice.

          1. A word of warning to would-be-brunchers. My girlfriend and I were all excited for brunch a few Saturdays ago, after finding their website which says that they do brunch from 10-3 Sat and Sun. When we arrived, however, we were told that they were doing snacks for the Roslindale Open Studios but were not serving brunch on Saturdays anymore, since the farmers' market closed. What really irked me was that even after we mentioned that they ought to update their website, we were offered no apology for having misled us with bad information! A shame, because I'm really interested in trying their food, but that experience has us off to a rocky start.