Naples and Rome, August-September
We are going to Naples August this year, mainly to see Pompeii before it deteriorates further. After 5 days in Naples (of which day 1 will just be arrival, check in, having dinner, so basically 4 days to fill) we'll take the train for Rome, where we plan to spend a whole week.
We will be on a budget of about €100-€150 per day. This does not include hotels and flights, as they are already booked, but it should cover transport, entry fees, lunch and dinner. I think if we go to mostly 'sensible' restaurants most we should be able to afford one splurge in each city.
I think we have enough ideas for food in Napels itself (Sorbillo, Starita a Mater Dei, Di Matteo or Da Michele for pizza, Donna Teresa and Hosteria Toledo for local fare, maybe La Chitarra) which I think all fall in the 'reasonable price' category, but maybe you can help me with the following:
(One rule: no shellfish as I'm allergic. I shy away from fish-only restaurants as I've had too many bad experiences in being served shellfish despite allerting to my allergies)
- a lunch near either Pompeii or Herculaneum, preferably something non-touristy or at least not a rip-off
- Somewhere nice with a view, maybe by the waterside or on f.i. Vomero hill. Or maybe there are nice rooftop restaurants in Napels?
- tips on where to get good gelato in Napels, I have looked but have not found any yet.
- a lunch near Pozzuoli, as we'd like to see the Solfatara there.
- I've been advised to take a boat to Procida from Pozzuoli, have dinner there and return on an evening hydrofoil. Any ideas?
The splurge meal here might be Palazzo Petrucci.
I've mainly been looking into Naples right now, so for Rome we'd have to make a similar list. Only longer, as we have more time to spend over there. Tips on hidden gems are always welcome Links to good threads on the board would also help a lot.
Via Cesare Sersale, 1, Naples, Campania 80139, IT
Via dei Tribunali, 32, Naples, Campania , IT
Via Tribunali, 94, Naples, Campania , IT
Rampe San Giovanni Maggiore, 1a, Naples, Campania 80134, IT
Osteria Donna Teresa
Via Kerbaker 58, Naples, Campania 80129, IT
Starita a Mater Dei
Via Materdei, 27, Naples, Campania 80136, IT
Vico Giardinetto, 78, Naples, Campania 80132, IT
My report on our week in Rome in early May was posted on May 20th. It may be worth a look by you, particularly as it give some specifics on prices at good restaurants worthy of your attention.
At the risk of boring the hell out of readers, I keep repeating the same advice: Time spent on familiarizing yourself on Rome's transportation system before your trip can subtract money from your transportation budget and put it in your dining budget. Get familiar with the metro system and google the ATAC website. Hit on the Italiano icon on the upper right hand side and request English: you will get point to point instructions on metro or bus routes.
You have not indicated how many are in your party. If two, your budget can be realized without undue compromise. Pick restaurants for your main meal, lunch or dinner, and spend some time digging out "snack" places for your other meals. We loved pizza al taglio at Pizzarium; never got to 00100 or the places in or around the Campo di Fiori. Do a search. Also search the "hot table places, like Volpetti Piu, Franchi, etc. Then there are panini and trammezzini sites; great sandwiches at Pepy's on the Piazza Barberini. Others can be searched online. Pay attention to reviews of places that offer attractive antipasti presentations. If you take an apartment, you can feast on wonderful salumi, etc., at home for one of your meals.
Be aware that Naples and Rome will be hot as you know what when you are there. Be attentive to which restaurants offer A/C for your main meal.
Via A. Volta, 8-10, Rome, Lazio , IT
Via della Meloria, 43, Rome, Lazio 00136, IT
Planning for A/C is a good idea, as is learning the public transit system (which I found to be very easy). They sell passes of various durations do you can just hop on and off. I'm personally not a big fan of subways (nothing to see!), but the busses in Rome are very easy to use.
You mentioned hotels. If you're on a budget (or even if you're not) for a stay of more than a couple of days you should look into renting an apartment. Not only will you save money on lodging (especially in Rome), but (to keep this on the subject of chow) you'll save money by not having to eat all your meals in restaurants and you'll have the fun of exploring local markets. At the very least you'll have a place to stock cold drinks on what will be hot days (last summer we had steel water bottles that we froze overnight so we always had water and at least for a little while it was cold).
It looks like you have made a good start on your Naples planning.Hee is one good recent report from Barberinibee, in case you missed it http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/755325. Since many of the good Naples posts are older than 1 year, the google search in Chowhound works better than the site search.
Re travel to the islands (Procida or Ischia) you should stody the boat schedules - you will probably want to take the boat back to Napoli, and you should make sure what time the last boat sails if you want to get home. Dinner hours are late and boat schedules may not cooperate, so lunch may be a better option.t. There is a strog rec for Scarabeo on this very good old thread here, It also addresses some of your issues and other very good recommendations on it too, http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/648763
Re Pozzuoli, here are some of the restaurants I identified in my own visit to the area; now on the Restaurant page http://www.chow.com/search?query=&...
of them, Taverna Brudi is rather close to the Sofatata and might work for you. There are alot of other restaurants down by the harbor, but they mostly tend to focus on the local seafood. - local food critics tend to dismiss a lot of these type places. See the vdanto recommendation on the older thread linked above for a good but maybe less convenient meat place.
We spent a day visiting Cumae and walking all around Bacoli trying to see the signts - the local transport in that area is sort of catch as catch can - Pozzuoii and Solfatara might be fine with the two train lines, but gettubg around to see the other Campo Flegrei sights without a car is iffy. We hoofed it for many miles on that day.
A day in Ercolano, with a visit to the Scavi and a lunch at Viva Lo Re is worth doing, although you have to prepare for the HEAT.The attractions are downhill from the station,After the scavi, It is a 10 min walk parellel to the seafront from the Scavi to the restaurant - there are supposed to be a string of summer "villas" along the road but what you will experience is a normal grand scale italian streetscape with large bombastic hot colored wall to wall buildings,and no way to get in and see them. The restaurant is excellent and the Scavi are extraordinary,,very different, and more intact than Pompeii,, but I was disappointed with how litte else of interest there was in Ercolano..
likewise Pompeii,. I liked Zi'Caterina very much there, even though it looks bogus and touristic the food was very good, a short walk from the Ampitheater entrance to the Pompeii scavi. A little farther on would be Il Principe, closed the day I was there, but has been highly recommended.
Regarding your naples choices, I had had nice, simple, cheap lunch, pasta and grilled scamorza, at La Chitarra, but another poster was underwhelmed by his dinner there. You have some solid choices on your list, Id say search to find other discussions.
By the way, Scimmia is the Naples gelateria that gets recommended most often around here.
Viva Lo Re
Corso Resina 261, Ercolano, Campania 80056, IT
Piazza Bartolo Longo, Pompei, Campania , IT
Via Roma 20, Pompei, Campania , IT
Via Vigna,15, Pozzuoli, Campania , IT
Via Salette,10, Procida, Campania 80079, IT
re: jen kalb
Wow, thanks both, there are some solid leads for further research in your posts.
I really appreciate you taking the time to write such an elaborate reply.
This week has been very hectic work-wise but I hope to be able to continue my search of the board this weekend. In any case, we still have some time for planning and what we call in Dutch 'voorpret' --> excitement/fun before the event.
Jen, your updates on Ercolano and Pompeii are especially appreciated as I had no previous leads for restaurants in the area.
My husband the gelato-fan is delighted with your Scimmia-tip. Strangely enough, I haven't been able to find anything when searching the board for 'gelato Naples'.
a google search of the chowhound site works better - the board search only picks up posts in the last year. Some of the best Naples posts are more than ay ear old. if you decide you want to discuss rome starting a new thread is a good idea - less confusing and more useful maps. By the way, dont worry about Pompeii deteriorating - there are many unexcavated streets and they can just dig up more if the frescos fade. by the way, if you want to feel special, you can visit otherwise closed buildings free of charge by booking here http://www.arethusa.net/w2d3/v3/view/...
I think the best thing, in terms of Rome, is for you to have a good look at all the threads on this site. Then narrow it down to what you think may work for you. If you do a search for 'Rome' that should get you there. Then there are plenty of links to specific types of places: pizza, trattoria, views, gelato, etc.
That way we can all weigh in with our different opinions!