Bouillabaisse recommendations in Marseille
- Kosmonaut Jun 13, 2011 01:25 AM
I'm going to Marseille for 3 days and would like to eat bouillabaisse. What are the must-try places there?
We went to Chez Michel last summer & my husband loved the bouillabaisse - super fresh fish with no bones. He claimed it was much better than Chez Fonfon's version, which is considerably less expensive (I think around 45€, instead of Michel's 63€) and not sufficiently fileted - but I prefer Fonfon's position in the Vallon des Auffes & its lovely view of the sunset over the Château d'If. (I always order soupe de poissons and definitely prefer Fonfon's rouille to that of Michel's.) Try to get a window table if you choose Fonfon.
Even if over-rated as a dish, bouillabaisse cannot be better done than at Chez Michel, though, indeed, the view from the Plage des Catalans across the road is not that of the Vallon des Auffes; plus the décor chez Michel is very old-fashioned. The soup part of the experience is to that of most bouillabaisses what a Margaux is to a litte cru bourgeois. The people at Fonfon are great in everything they do, but there is a reason Michel had a Michelin star as recently as a year or so ago and flirts with one every year.
If it's purely for the food, Michel. If it's for the total experience, perhaps Fonfon.
For what it's worth, we went to both Chez Michel & Chez Fonfon this past summer, & my husband finally conceded that Fonfon was as good - & as fileted - as Chez Michel , having dined at the 2 places in such a short period of time (enabling him to make the comparison). I still maintain the rouille is better at Fonfon, & the setting can't be beat. OTOH Chez Michel lost its Michelin star... Maybe something there has changed.