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Oh, man, does this bring back memories. Pierre Celis opened his brewery a couple of miles from my house outside Austin - was that really 20 years ago? I've heard a rumor that Celis is back (brewed in Michigan now), but haven't had an opportunity to sample the stuff.
I did get a glass of St. Bernardus on tap a while back, and it was pretty tasty. The phenols and esters were definitely present, though, so if your complaint about beers being "cloying" means that you don't like the sweet banana and clove overtones that can sometimes be found in a Wit, it might not be your cup of tea. Since Celis came out of Hoegaarden, maybe that would hit the spot?
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re: alanbarnes
Yes, there is "Celis" that is brewed by some micro in Michigan. Not available in NY or NJ. Had it in DC last year but was only OK. It seem so strange that Miller sold the brand to some unknown (at least the the beer geeks I know in NYC, including myself). I'm surprised that some well known micro/craft didn't buy it considering the pedigree. Hoegaarden seems to be a pale imitation of it's former self. St B's, Have to look it up.
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I love Wit/Wheat/White Beers, too.
Alpine Beer Co made the most delicious White a couple summers back. I've been searching (and trying to make my own at home) as good - but it just hasn't happened yet. We tasted it side by side with Allagash. Alpine blew it away with it's complexity and aftertaste. I haven't really been able to enjoy Allagash since.
Have you tried AleSmith Horny Devil? It's a Belgian Strong Ale (ABV: 11%) that rocks the coriander seeds and orange/citrus. Napa Smith makes a very nice Ginger Wheat, if you ever see it around. I tried the Weizenbock from Sierra Nevada last last week. It's a little too sweet for me but still a very good tasting beer.
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Ive been enjoying Port City (Alexandria, VA) Optimal Wit these past few months. Its quite exceptional when fresh. Its a new brewery though so I doubt its gotten any play outside the Washington DC region but if you see it try it.
If given the choice though Im more prone to german wheats and well made Kolshes, pilsners or non-dark lagers during the hot part of the year. Sometimes the more heavily spiced Wits overwhelm me with coriander and orange peal.
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Never had a chance to try the Celis brewed Celis, but it came back for a while after the Miller failure and I thought was pretty good until they had some troublesome batches then it disappeared from the Boston market.
Allagash was a favorite of mine too - can be inconsistent though as far as balance and spice level.
Also liked Victory Whrilwind Wit as it was unique with its orangey flavors, but stopped buying it a few years back after getting some really phenolic batches.
A little more expensive, but St. Bernardus Witbier and Hitachino Nest White Ale are both excellent.
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