4 Days in Nice -- Looking for some cheaper/casual places
I've searched the board for a bit now, but the name "Nice" just isn't a very good searchable one :-) I've pretty much determined we will eat at Flaveur for sure, and maybe Millésime 82 or Keisuke Matsushima. That leaves 2 or three nights for other places, preferably casual, cheaper places. I'm thinking we could do Chez Palmyre one night, does that fit? What about good pizza, Les Amoureux, Safari? Safari for non pizza as well? What about Oliviera, how is the prices there? Any others I should consider?
This will be in July, so am I correct that Le Bistro D Antoine will be closed?
If we just walk around and look for places priced at what we want, are we going to end up at a bland tasting tourist stop?
I've only visited Nice once, a few years back, but our group had a delightful dinner at La Cantine a Lulu. Lulu is a male, owner/chef, I think Lulu is a nickname for Luc, or something, but it was a very nice, small, "Parisian grubby" cafe. I forget if he had tables outside, if so, not very many, but it's wonderful to hear that his cafe is still there.
The lady and I dined at a cafe next door to Le Safari one night, on Cours Saleya. The pasta with clams and Salade Nicoise were both forgettable, but the people-watching was the best anywhere. People at a nearby table sent back some red wine, and after they left, the waiter and owner held a long powwow, tasting the wine, discussing whether or not it was suitable for serving.
Both cafes were reasonably priced and most enjoyable. Our only regret was not having a chance to visit the amazing farmer's market on Cours Saleya.
Not true about all the restaurants on Massena - some are Nice landmarks. La Pizza and the Quebec several blocks down are both owned by Monsieur Crespi, who received a special award from Chirac for contribution to French culture and culinary industry. The pizzas are huge, semi-circular and rich in sauce and cheese. The aubergine version is particularly recommended.
For a restaurant popular with Nice everyman, try L'Oval on Rue Pastorelli. It has a menu for around 16 euros at lunch time with a large selection in every course. It has been listed by L'Equipe (the sporting magazine) as a favourite of the rugby contingent. Certainly the servings are generous!
Also a note on the Safari. It is very crowded at lunch time, but has a great people-watching terrace; get there before 12:30 or reserve personally earlier in the day. The pizzas are excellent (thinner and crispier than at La Pizza or the Quebec), but I would also go for the daily specials - the fish and rabbit dishes are very good. No menus of the day are offered.
We spent a week in Nice in the fall (second time there). We loved Flaveur, and also had dinner at Millésime 82 and Keisuke Matsushima (and Aphrodite, which we preferred just slightly over the the latter two...they're all good though! Our least fave of the similar bunch was Luc Salsedo) We also had a great lunch at Oliviera...very yummy, and the owner was so nice.
I'd also recommend an Italian place that I haven't seen mentioned much here but that we really enjoyed. A little more casual and cheaper than the others but we really liked it: Boni. Italian small plates. Good food. great value and wonderful staff and atmosphere. Enjoy!
My DH and I just came back from two weeks in Nice. We ate at :
Chez Davia one night. It was very good and inexpensive (I had a great spaghetti with fruit de mer--my DH had a Bolognaise lasagna he enjoyed); Davia is on the premises and quite colorful.
Cantine LuLu (great Nicoise food and a friendly attentive chef);
Le Boudoir is a nice small chef owned place a couple of blocks east of Place Massena. We stumbled upon it one night and were taken by the great food and friendliness of the place;
La Maison de Marie--5 Rue Massena (I know..the tourist area--groan--but it wasn't the usual tourist fare--it was off by itself down an alley. The Daube with ravioli is very good.
We've been told not to eat at the tourist restaurants on Rue Massena. For such bad publicity those restaurants were filled every single night of the two weeks we were there. We saw a lot of pizza and mussel plates as we walked by but did not succumb. Ha ha.
Have a great trip. We loved it.