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Marche - Macerata/Civitanova or Ancona/Falconara/Jesi

k
kerriar Jun 7, 2011 03:25 AM

Have done some digging around here and find I agree with an earlier post which says there is not much on chowhound about Marche.

Any suggestions would be welcome - not looking for michelin stars but rather cucina povera and/or good seafood places on the coast. July/August holiday looks like being divided between the two areas mentioned in header but may travel a bit.

Thanks in advance

  1. g
    ghiottone Jun 8, 2011 12:22 AM

    In Macerata: Osteria dei Fiori (http://www.osteriadeifiori.it/). Pleasant, simple, nice outdoor seating. And if you're there in late July and enjoy opera, I highly recommend spending an evening at the outdoor Sferisterio (http://www.sferisterio.it/), second in Italy only to Verona.

    Civitanova: I'm not too familiar with the town, but right up the road in Porto Recanati is Le Voci del Mare (http://www.virtualcitta.it/portorecanati/le_voci_del_mare/), which offers a pretty amazing brodetto.

    Ancona: Capital of Marche, but that's about it. You can see/visit all you need to in one day. For stoccafisso (marchigiana version of baccala), try Da Gino across from the train station. There are a number of acceptable restaurants around the Piazza Roma, but I can't recommend one over the other. You might consider the beach towns south of Ancona: Portonovo (rightfully well-known for its wild mussels, or moscioli), Sirolo and Numana.

    JesI: As I've posted before, Hostara Santa Lucia (no website) for fish. I haven't found much else in Jesi worth recomminding, food-wise. The town is quite charming, though. If you go, be sure to visit the Enoteca Regionale delle Marche, located in the center but a bit hidden (no website).

    Falconara: Not much here, either. I'd head instead a bit farther north to Senigallia, a somewhat tony but very attractive town, including the center (rare for beachtowns along this stretch of the Adriatic). Though you're not interested, it boasts two * restaurants: Uliassi (really creative, very good) (http://www.uliassi.it/eng/index_eng.html) and Moreno Cedroni's La Madonnina del Pescatore (http://www.morenocedroni.it/madonnina...). For more affordable fare, try Luna Rossa (right on the beach on the southern lungomare) (no website). Last Sunday, I had lunch at my friend's bagno, Il Giallo Sole, on the northern lungomare. The restaurant is under new management and offers excellent fish and fish-based pastas, as well as combo platters (quite unusual). Lunch for four with wine etc. ran to a mere € 80.

    There's also Marotta, Fano, and Pesaro still further north. If you need further recs after nailing down your itinerary, feel free to post.

    -----
    Uliassi
    Banchina Di Levante, 6, Senigallia, Marche 60019, IT

    La Madonnina del Pescatore
    loc. Marzocca, Via Lungomare Italia, 11, Senigallia, Marche 60019, IT

    Da Gino
    Piazza Generale Dalla Chiesa,4, Trapani, Sicily , IT

    1 Reply
    1. re: ghiottone
      k
      kerriar Jun 8, 2011 03:01 AM

      Thanks -that's really appreciated.

      Will report back in due course.

    2. g
      ghiottone Jun 21, 2011 01:39 AM

      And if you make it to Marotta, I can highly recommend last weekend's discovery, El Garagol. http://www.elgaragol.it/. Fish is excellent, prices reasonable. Nice views of the sea (albeit through the parked cars). A winner is the starter of "garagoi", Marotta dialect for sea snails, served in a flavorful tomato sauce traditional to the area. The seasonal pastas combine quality ingredients with light, innovative saucing. My mezzalune filled with aged ricotta and lobster were excellent.

      During summer weekdays, they also offer a daily prix fixe dinner special. We're going back next week for the seafood paella. There's also one that involves a succession 15 or so fish antipasti for €20.

      7 Replies
      1. re: ghiottone
        k
        kerriar Jun 27, 2011 06:28 AM

        Thanks Ghiottone - one day I have to do an afternoon pick-up at Ancona airport and this could be a good place for lunch.

        1. re: kerriar
          g
          ghiottone Jun 27, 2011 06:57 AM

          The airport is virtually right next to the Ancona Nord entrance to the Bologna-Taranto autostrada. Head north (direction Bologna) two stops to the Marotta exit (about 30 kms) and then head straight to the lungomare, which is really close to the toll booths. Turn right and head down maybe one km. It'll be on your right. If you plan on arriving after 2:30 PM, however, best to check if they'll still be serving lunch.

          1. re: ghiottone
            k
            kerriar Jul 31, 2011 02:28 AM

            Ghiottone - am planning dinner Tuesday at Voci del Mare and have just looked at website which seems strong on weddings, formal functions etc? Is this just marketing?

            Osteria dei Fiori was exactly what we were looking for in Macerata (thanks) and could eat there everyday - nice people serving great food. (Very much appreciated as Sferisterio leaves you hanging around in the rain until 23.00 before they decide the night is rained out and the opera is cancelled - can't they check the local weather forecast?)

            In general, Marche is still one of the great undiscovered corners of Italy - even in the most simple places, people have pride in the food they serve and are very strongly attached to locally sourced material. Quality of ingredients makes cooking a joy - e.g., just bought really great potatoes from a farmer on the side of the road near Serravale

            1. re: kerriar
              g
              ghiottone Aug 1, 2011 12:10 AM

              VdM is a larg-ish restaurant with ample (enclosed) outdoor seating. I guess that would make it a good choice for large events. However, the times I've eaten there, I've seen just regular groups of diners.

              If you go, be sure to get both types of brodetto: fish and shellfish.

              1. re: ghiottone
                c
                CarolinaQ Mar 16, 2012 06:01 PM

                I just found these posts,and am grateful for them.We will be in Ascoli for 3 days before driving down to Trani.We will go to the Osterias in Mascerata and Porto Recananti....happily!! Any osterias in Ascoli ???
                Caol20007

                1. re: CarolinaQ
                  erica Mar 17, 2012 09:05 AM

                  In Ascoli center, the SF Osterie guide (English version) lists 3 restaurants:

                  C'ERA UNA VOLTA http://www.ristorantetrattoriacerauna...

                  DEL CORSO

                  DA MIDDIO

                  1. re: erica
                    c
                    CarolinaQ Mar 17, 2012 01:47 PM

                    Thanks,Erica...and noted !!we are very excited about exploring the places along the coast suggested here...And Ascoli !!

      2. n
        nyc2italia Jul 18, 2012 07:15 AM

        Nice to see these postings. I just moved to the area frm Bologna, and am quite lost in terms of where to eat, and what are even the local specialties. I found a great casalinga-style trattoria in centro storico of Recanati called Emilio.

        Tonight I will be in Macerata, so I will try Osteria dei Fiori.

        5 Replies
        1. re: nyc2italia
          g
          ghiottone Jul 18, 2012 09:58 PM

          Good to know about Emilio. Hope you enjoyed Fiori.

          1. re: ghiottone
            n
            nyc2italia Aug 28, 2012 06:24 AM

            Never actually made it to Macerata. I wish there was more info on Le Marche, but at the same time, I guess I am happy that there isn't, as it is not overrun with tourists like many other Italian regions. Seems you have to really just ask the locals. Even the Slow Food guide has almost nothing around here. I'll keep searching, and report when I find something.

            1. re: nyc2italia
              g
              ghiottone Aug 29, 2012 12:19 AM

              For more info, you might want to come to our next American expat gtg in early September. There aren't many of us, but one is ex-Numana and has lots of tips. If you're interested, send me an email through http://www.swrl-lab.com/

              1. re: ghiottone
                n
                nyc2italia Aug 29, 2012 12:42 AM

                Thanks ghiottone! Just did. And I look foraward to trying the brodetto at Le Voci del Mare when the ferma pesce is over. Good tip.

                Last night, with new friends, I ended up at an agriturismo in Ancona which was pretty incredible. Modern twists on local foods. Called La Tavola del Carmine (www.aziendadelcarmine.it). It was a bit difficult to find at night, but well worth the country back-road drive. The prices were right for the quality, and the service was very attentive. The portions are big, so if you go with a group, share. Great local wines, olive oil and salumi and cheese as well.

                To start, we ordered the grand tagliere of salumi and another of mixed cheeses. They came with the agriturismo's own mostarde of different spices which paired well. I particularly liked, for primo, a trenette with stracchino, peas, and a hint of lemon zest. I think that was €9. The tagliata came on a block of salt (beautiful presentation), with shavings of truffles and aged pecorino. It was €16, and enough to share.

                I would definitely return.

                1. re: nyc2italia
                  a
                  allende Aug 29, 2012 01:38 AM

                  Fresh peas at this time of year in Ancona? Maybe I'll head south.

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