Seductions of Rice: Cela, Polo, Pulao: The Persian Way
- bayoucook Jun 1, 2011 06:42 AM
Cardamom and Rose Water Rice Pudding p.313
I wonder if the authors named the book on account of this beguiling dish. Seductions of rice sums it up perfectly. This is a lavish, exotic version of rice pudding, not unlike a version of kheer that I know of.
Rose water has such an alluring, bewitching fragrance, and I can't get enough of this flavour. A little goes a long way though, and the recipe calls for 3 tablespoons. I reduced by about half, and that was more than enough for me. I used Egyptian rice, and it was a very soft, creamy choice in this pudding. Perfect, if you will. Due to this rice exchange, it was perhaps a bit thicker than it was supposed to be. The rice is simmered in whole milk and water for 2 hours. When soft and luscious, the sugar and cardamom are added, although 1 cup of sugar made for a very, very saccharine pudding. I will reduce it by half. The dessert was topped with chopped pistachios and a drizzle of honey, which I adored. The floral flavour from the honey paired beautifully with the rose water. What a great end to an evening.
Well, I love rosewater and orange blossom water in certain dishes, but my labels were all in Arabic, plus I've transferred them to Morrocan spigot bottles by now. If you get the courage and try rosewater again, don't throw it out if you don't like it in food. If nothing else, it's lovely to use AFTER a middle eastern or north African meal, especially one which has been eaten with fingers. Pass it around in a spigot bottle, or just sprinkle a little on hot towels!
Beautiful! The full amounts of sugar and rose water sound very potent--and a little cardamom goes a long way too. Heady dessert.
Golden Chicken Kebabs p.296
It was a gorgeous evening for a barbecue, and these lovely kebabs fit the bill perfectly.
The lightly charred skewers of marinated chicken were surprisingly good. Small chunks of boneless chicken are soaked in a mixture of yogurt, garlic, saffron, and dried mint for several hours, up to 24 hours. I didn't plan far enough in advance for such a long marinating time, though I imagine that the longer they sit in the yogurt, the more tender they would become. 3 hours was enough time for the meat to become sufficiently flavoured. I used fresh mint in the marinade, which worked out well.
After the bathe in the sauce, the meat is threaded onto skewers and grilled. Cooking took mere minutes. With enough advance planning, this is a very simple dish. The flavours of the mint and the saffron are subtle, but still enough in the forefront that you know they're there. The time spent in the yogurt tenderizes the meat nicely, and the chicken was lovely. I will make this again.
Special Everyday Persian Rice p.288
This is an elaborate and time-consuming way of preparing basmati rice, but it creates the most perfect, dry and fluffy rice I've ever made.
The rice is first soaked in salted water for 2-3 hours. The amount of salt called for is surprising-3 tablespoons! I followed the recipe despite my misgivings, and everything turned out well.
Once done soaking, the rice is sprinkled into boiling water and boiled for several minutes, until the resulting grains are tender on the outside, yet still firm in the middle. Once done, the rice is quickly drained and rinsed with cool water.
The same pot is then heated over high, and oil and water (!!) are added. About 1/2 cup of rice, an egg, and 2T. of yogurt are mixed together, and then spread into an even layer on the bottom of the sizzling pot. This is to become the tahdig, the flavourful crust that makes Persian rice so unique. The remaining rice is mounded into the pot, and the lid of the pot is wrapped in a tea towel, soaking up the steam from the rice as it cooks. The heat is lowered to medium low and steamed for 30 minutes.
When done, for ease in removing the crusty layer, the pot is put into a sink with cold water for a minute or so. Turn the rice onto a platter and break the tahdig into chunks. A bit of rice is spooned into a saffron-water mixture, then sprinkled onto the white rice. It looks lovely on the plate, the fluffy white and yellow grains with the golden brown crust pieces.
I added the optional herb mixture as well, since I have tarragon and chives up to my eyeballs.
The tahdig was not that wonderful, due to the fact that my pot darkened it a bit too much. (It was the pot, you understand. Not me.) I can see how delicious it would be if it was cooked properly. I would try this again, if only to see how the crust is really supposed to taste.
The chelo paired perfectly with the onion-pomegranate salad.
Oasis Salad p.299
Not much to say on this one, just a light, refreshing salad of cucumber, tomato and radish. Garden fresh produce would elevate this so much more. Soon! The veggies are mixed with chopped cilantro. I also added mint, as I seem to have a mint theme going on here.
Pomegranate Onion Salad p.302
This was the hit of the evening! The flavours of this recipe blew me away!
A sweet onion is thinly sliced and tossed with salt for about 30 minutes, then rinsed and drained. A dressing of pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, sugar, and cayenne are tossed gently onto the onion, and chopped mint is mixed in. It was so simple, yet so exotic tasting. I love the sweet tang of the pomegranate molasses, and am so pleased to have found another excuse to use it. The onions just had a touch of a bite left in them from the salting, and they readily soaked up the dressing. I polished off the salad by itself, but it was also wonderful mixed with the Persian rice. This is going to be a staple every time I cook middle eastern cuisine. It was amazing!!
Pomegranate Onion Salad – p. 302
Big thanks to Allegra for pointing out this recipe and for doing such a great job of describing how it comes together, this was a big hit at our house too!
I’ve never prepared onions in this manner. Onions are tossed in course salt and set aside for 20 - 30 minutes in order to remove any strong tang according to the book. I used Vidalia onions which, in my view, don’t normally have much of a tang however, I did like the resulting texture and flavour of the onions produced by the salting process. The onions take on a satiny-soft texture. I would reduce the amount of lemon juice to 2tbsp next time I prepare this dish as we did find the dressing to be somewhat bitter. The bitter-sweet crisp pop of the pomegranate seeds provided the perfect contrast to the silky, sweet onions. I used chili flakes vs cayenne. We loved this dish, it was perfect w our souvlaki and the rice. We treated it more as a condiment rather than a salad. Delicious, we’ll definitely have this again and I’d like to try it with lime juice next time.
Edited to add: I should have noted that I used basil in place of the mint in the salad and it worked really well.
Yogurt Salad p.303
Very similar to an Indian raita except for the addition of dill.
I didn't add the optional radishes, will probably try them later.
A whole deseeded cucumber (double the recipe amount) was used. Even more would work without the cucumber dominating the texture.
One aspect of the recipe is intriguing and puzzling - some whey is drained out and then water is added back in! Not wanting too liquid a result, I only added about two tablespoons of water.
As expected, it was a refreshing side dish.
I didn't salt/drain the cucumber, just quartered lengthwise and sliced out the seeds. I then chopped it as finely as I could, my preference for this kind of dish.
I was thinking the same about the liquid substitution. The recipe also reminds me of a Bulgarian (or Polish?) style yogurt soup, just add more water and minced garlic.
Spring Pilaf with Fresh Greens – p. 291
Sounds perfect for this time of year doesn’t it? That’s what I thought. In fact, the “fresh greens” are not vegetables (am I the only one who thinks of veggies when I hear “greens”?) No worries, the greens in this dish are herbs. Dill, chives and parsley to be precise. This dish appealed because I had all the ingredients on hand/in my garden so I made a last minute decision to add it to the menu. After I’d chopped all the herbs and prepared the remaining mis en place, I realized the dish required a somewhat protracted cooking process w and additional 40 mins of steaming and resting on top of the initial cooking of the rice.
I likely have no business reviewing this recipe because I didn’t have the extra time to prepare the dish as intended so in the end, I did use all the ingredients called for in the dish, I just prepared them in a different manner. Once my basmati rice was cooked (I used brown btw), I heated up the butter/oil mixture in my wok then stirred in the rice and, using the author’s technique from another rice dish, pressed the rice against the side of the wok to form a crust. Once a sufficient amount of crustiness had developed, I stirred in the herbs to incorporate then made a well in the centre of the wok and poured in the egg/yogurt mixture and gradually stirred to incorporate into the rice mixture.
While what I did may not have been what was intended and, undoubtedly produced a result unlike the author had envisioned, it sure was a tasty dish!! I served this with grilled Chicken Souvlaki, Tzatziki and, the Onion Pomegranate Salad from p. 303 of this book (review up-thread). Happy to recommend this dish and look forward to reading a review from someone who actually prepares it properly!! ; - )
Silk Road Kebab (page 295)
Continuing in pre-Thanksgiving clean-out-the-freezer mode, I had two chunks of lamb cut from a boneless leg, each chunk about ¾ of a pound. I trimmed them and cut them into 1-inch cubes. And because I had quite a bit of fat, I decided to render it as instructed and use it in the marinade and to brush the kebabs when they were turned.
The lamb cubes are marinated for 4 to 24 hours (mine were marinated almost the full 24) in minced onion, a small amount of oil or the rendered lamb fat, dry-roasted and ground coriander, crushed cumin seeds, and black pepper. They’re threaded loosely on skewers and grilled or broiled (latter for me) for about five minutes, then turned, brushed with the rendered fat, and broiled another 7 to 10 minutes (the lesser time here).
One of the serving suggestions is Simple Turkish Pilaf (page 322), and I made a half recipe of that using arborio rice (one of the recommendations) and TJ’s vegetable stock and adding some frozen peas that were also in the freezer. With that were some leftover Muir Glen Fire Roasted Tomatoes that were just heated up.
This was a very tasty and satisfying dinner, and would have been even it hadn’t been made with nothing but leftovers. I adore lamb, and the rendered lamb fat really intensified the flavor of the kebabs. I’d definitely do that again, with this recipe or any other, if I had lamb that needed trimming. Extra bonus: my small Mineral-B frying pan is now as beautifully seasoned as could be hoped for.
This is a cookbook I really should revisit, and that recipe looks and sounds delightful. We love lamb here too.
In Re: your de Buyer pan. I've been looking at the 12" fry pan. My ancient pan that must be at lease 65 years old has finally warped and I'm afraid food won't cook evenly any longer. Would the 12" pan be very heavy? (you must have the 8", right?) How long did it take to season it to your liking? I know using it regularly would help that but just wondering.
In a fit of almost embarrassing self-indulgence, when the Mineral-Bs were on sale somewhere about a year ago, I bought the 8-, 10-, and 12-inch pans. Yes, the 12-inch pan is heavy. Damned heavy. Five pounds, 12.5 ounces. I got them seasoned enough to use, albeit with the addition of some fat, fairly quickly. It took considerably longer, and quite a bit of use, to get them almost completely non-stick (I still won't make fried eggs in them without adding some fat). I adore them; they're such a pleasure to use. But if weight is an issue, they--especially the 12 inch--might not be for you.
This is very good information for me. Thank you! I do have two very good 10" fry pans, and an 8" pan as well but the overall composition of the de Buyers 12" Mineral B appeals to me. I don't think almost 6 pounds would be too heavy for G to use but definitely not for me. We need to have a discussion about this. Thanks, again.