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I COULD tell you... more than you want to know about Maremma

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I just found out about this board, looking for fennel pollen recipes, and had some "Finocchio Fiore" which is actually the flower.. and some fresh goat and I live in Maremma, Tuscany. So if you have any questions about where to go for what, just fire away. I've been here for 35 years, eaten at every single restaurant there is to go to, and speak fluent Italian so if you have any questions about that too .... It's spelled Erboristeria by the way....

 
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  1. Hi Guilia, I am attending a wedding in Caldana near Follonica in July and will be staying in the area for 4-5 days. I've been once before, to the beach Cala Violina (perhaps the most spectacular beach I have ever been to), and then to a restaurant somewhat north of there that was unmemorable. I would love any recommendations you could make about food in the general area of Follonica (or beyond) that would be worth seeking out. To be honest I'm not sure if that means only seafood or if there are other specialties along the Maremma coast, and it doesn't matter whether it be either fancy or cheap, just something that is worth the experience. If there are markets to shop at, cafes to pass a lazy day, or anything else that is a part of the local culture and worth experiencing, I would be eager to hear about it. Many thanks!

    4 Replies
    1. re: ferriswayne

      Ferriswayne, so you've already been to the Follonica area and Cala Violina (called that because of the sound the sand makes when you walk on it..." like a violin playing") so I would avoid the more famous places (Gambero Rosso etc.) in that area and head south towards the southern Maremma coast. I don't know how many of you there are and your ages and so forth but I would begin with touring the Scansano/Magliano/Manciano towns, ending up in Capalbio to eat at Il Frantoio (reservations advisable). The beach at "Ultima Spiaggia" in Chiarone Scalo is beautiful and luncheon there is a dream, with a nap under the umbrella afterwards. On your way back I really love the little town of Orbetello which is a great stroll and aperitivo place. There are no restaurants I can recommend there in Orbetello however. Towards Porto Ercole you will find the restaurant La Posada which is excellent (they have an expensive but amazing Amarone wine) and sell cheeses also made from local sheep's milk that a Sardinian friend of mine supplies directly to them. I would avoid the much advertised Morellino di Scansano etc. since they've lost their quality and only a few producers are worth the expense. Maremma is famous for it's wild boar and fresh caught fish. And of course if you can get in you can always go to the famous "Caino" restaurant in Monte Merano but I personally feel it's a little over-rated and outrageously expensive. Porto Ercole is wonderful to stroll around also. Let me know if you want some more info!

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      Il Frantoio
      Piazza Provvidenza, 10, Capalbio Grossetto, Toscana 58011, IT

      1. re: giulialatini

        Thank you so much for the reply, I look forward to taking advantage of your advice and I know the rest of our party will be grateful as well. I have one last question, if you don't mind the imposition. Assuming we spend a day wandering more inland, toward Massa Marittima, or Roccastrada, or any of the towns situated between them and the coast: do you have any suggestions for where we might want to take lunch or coffee, or is there anything else that might be farther away but worth a detour? Once again, thank you for your help, I'll be sure to post our experience when we return.

        1. re: ferriswayne

          Welcome, Giulialatini! wondering if you have opinions on some of these places, posted on our Restaurant page

          http://www.chow.com/search?query=&amp...

          Il Pungolo

          a Tronca

          Taverna del Vecchio Borgo

          La Tana del Brillo Parlante

          Il Garibaldi Inammorato

          Il Sottomarino

          Il Tarlo

          or some of the additional recommendations mentioned in this article

          http://www.dissapore.com/mangiare-fuo...

          -----
          Il Pungolo
          Via Valle Aspra 12, Massa Marittima, Tuscany 58024, IT

          Da Tronca
          Vicolo Porte 5, Massa Marittima, Tuscany , IT

          Taverna del Vecchio Borgo
          via Parenti 12, Massa Marittima, Tuscany 58024, IT

          Il Garibaldi Inammorato
          Via Giuseppe Garibaldi,5, Piombino, Tuscany , IT

          Il Tarlo
          fraz. Riotorto,Piazza del Popolo,17, Piombino, Tuscany , IT

          La Tana del Brillo Parlante
          Vicolo del Ciambellano, Massa Marittima, Tuscany , IT

          Il Sottomarino
          Via Marconi,18, Follonica, Toscana 58022, IT

          1. re: ferriswayne

            I've heard that La Perla del Mare in San Vincenzo is great but personally I cannot vouch for it, given that these days I have more recent experience in southern Maremma and northern Lazio.

      2. Hi Guilia! We will stay in Manciano (Grossetto Province) in October 2011. We should have a car. Can you please advise me about good places to eat in these cities and around. Thank you!

        1. Hi Giulia, We will be renting an apartment near Cala Piccola in early July. Can you recommend good casual to mid range restaurants? Also, suggestions regarding day trips or nice sandy beaches that aren't too long of a drive away would be greatly appreciated!

          1. Giulialatini - my wife and I arrived today in Manciano for a week's biking in this lovely part of maremma. We visited 2 yeas ago and loved it. Are there other restaurants in the area you would recommend. We've been to Caino twice and, while excellent, it is over the top economically and contextually. Any more "relaxed" places you'd recommend? We do have a car and will be touring by bike and car. Restaurants, towns, beaches, etc? Thanks so very much. Michael

            1 Reply
            1. re: mfinder

              Sorry everybody, been travelling and out of WiFi range for awhile... @Michael Yesssss, Caino is really over the top price wise, and personally I think somewhat overrated food wise. I really like Il Tortello in Pescia Fiorentina, Tullio in Capalbio Alta is fantastic, Il Frantoio in Capalbio Alta (pricey also but priceless to sit outside in the evenings and the people watching is great), I also like Terre Etrusche in Capalbio Scalo (a place for foodies, the service can be sketchy but the food is wonderful and not too expensive) , Fontanile dei Caprai (on the road between Manciano and Capalbio: you'll have to ask directions, has very rustic food including Aqua Cotta, delicious), Il Mestolo in Capalbio Scalo (very simple but usually good food), then as far as places near the beach Macchiatonda is great with terrific seafood, as is L'Ultima Spiaggia (a great place also to spend the day under an umbrella with a couple of lounges to people watch, but the water is not very clear), both near Capalbio Scalo. Then in Orbetello "Ai Pescatori" is said to be good but I haven't been there lately. If you need any more ideas... you should really also try to go see the Tarot Garden of Niky de Saint Phalle which is in that area and worth the visit. http://www.nikidesaintphalle.com/ Have a great time!

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              Il Frantoio
              Via Della Madonna,9, Montescudaio (Pisa), Tuscany 56040, IT

              Tullio
              via Nuova 27, Capalbio, Grossetto, Toscana 58011, IT