Why can't more of these places be like Highland Kitchen?

[Blumie]

So there's no shortage of bars/pubs in the area that attempt to create gastropub experience. Most of them suck. Why is that? Is it that difficult to execute a decent pub menu? Below are some of the winners and losers in my book. Do you agree? Am I wrong that more should be able to do it right?

Winners:

Highland Kitchen
The Druid
Eastern Standard

Not sure yet:

Russell House Tavern

Losers:

Cambridge Common
John Harvard's
The Local
O'Hara's
Paddy's
The Biltmore
West Street Tavern (I think I praised this place in a recent post. After two more visits, I've changed my mind)
Tommy Doyle's

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The Biltmore
1205 Chestnut St, Newton Upper Falls, MA 02464

Cambridge Common
1667 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA 02138

Highland Kitchen
150 Highland Ave, Somerville, MA 02143

Tommy Doyles
349 Watertown St, Newton, MA 02458

Russell House Tavern
14 JFK Street, Cambridge, MA 02138

[Bob Dobalina]

Not to dredge up an old thread, but wanted to re-answer the question posed by the title of this post....

In a word, flexibility is why these other places are not like Highland Kitchen. Case in point...

Last night, DW and I ate at the bustling bar - the whole place was nicely bustling.

We had:

Watermelon/tomato/feta salad (special), grilled sardines with romesco sauce on greens (special), grilled corn with chipotle crema, cotija cheese and lime (seasonal change to permanent menu) and seasonal greens salad with order of side of rice (for you Top Chef fans in the audience).

Drinks: Hibiscus margarita, glass of rose, beer of the moment (Mayflower (Plymouth, MA) summer ale)

I know of no other place where - every night - it seems to have a great selection of specials and/or changes to the menu to suit the season. Each dish was competently cooked, well-flavored, perhaps not letter perfect (the romesco was more of a tomato sauce, a bit oddly paired with arugula, and made quite the mess with the flakes of sardines and fish skeletons, oh my!), the corn a knock-off of the Toro version that was not *quite* as good, but pretty darn close -

Plus, request of a side of the rice that they usually give you with the gumbo was happily granted without a bat of an eye - kind of puts the recent discussion about substitutions and special requests to shame (although granted, it was a scoop of pre-made rice - incidentally, that rice is really really tasty - DW I think pegged it as cooked with coconut milk).

Every time, different and interesting drinks too - really enjoyed the hibiscus - who doesn't enjoy purple cocktails?

All in all, it's potentially a new experience every time...and every time it's just plain super.

[bear]

Well said, Bob. Sounds like a great meal, and smart ordering. I have a hard time not getting the Buffalo Brussel Sprouts every time, though.

[treb]

BD you nailed it, this is why I like Highland. I also like sitting at the bar, very active and energetic crew.

[Bob Dobalina]

One more thought - just noticed this item on boston.com re: Boston Magazine - http://www.boston.com/yourtown/news/s...

Includes the category: Best Somerville Neighborhood Eats – Foundry on Elm.

Uh, right.....But I totally see through this....obviously Boston Mag writers eat at Highland Kitchen all the time and don't want people to crowd them out. Very sly of them to send them to the Foundry....They aren't fooling me...

[Bob MacAdoo]

Ditto to your main thought BD. Right on.

[treb]

Went to Highland determined to get their burger and not be swayed by other things on the menu. Well, I was successful, just as I expected, simple execution and great flavor. Ordered med rare and it came out perfect, the carmelized onions brought a nice bite of sweetness and the buttered toasted bun just took it over the top, nothing took away from the flavor of the meat coming through. A great burger and pretty good fries as well.

[johndory]

While not as good as HK, I would put Canary Square in the winners column. Its precedessor, the Alchemist, was a loser in my book. The prices at Canary Square are not much different from those at Alchemist, suggesting that the difference in quality is largely attributable to the effort in the kitchen and the importance placed on serving very good food by the owners.

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Canary Square
435 S Huntington Ave, Boston, MA 02130

[celeriac]

I disagree. I've only tried a couple of food items at Canary, but they have been middling-to-bad. Their cheese fries were actually quite bad - limp, greasy, and with a grainy cheddar sauce. I mean, if you can't make me happy with a plate of cheese fries... I just don't know what else to say.

[twentyoystahs]

Agree, but I am a huge Russell House Tavern Fan. Haven't been in a couple months but every time we go the food is excellent and the service is so attentive. Tho' maybe I just can't see past that delicious crispy poached egg ;)

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Russell House Tavern
14 JFK Street, Cambridge, MA 02138

[nachovegas]

I understand the frustration because it doesn't cost anymore to cook something well than it does to put out something gross, it just takes having pride in what you do and giving a damn. It's a drag when a pub' or bar and grill clearly doesn't give a shit about their food, because even if it's cheaper than a "gastro pub" by 3 or 4 dollars, they're still charging you for it.

[tomjb27]

As I wrote on a similar thread, I don't really understand bashing Cambridge Common for not being a gastropub, or for not being as good as other placed mentioned above, when they’re clearly not "attempting to create" that experience, or compete with those places that are. CC is a neighborhood place that offers decent, affordable food to its clientele, which is mainly comprised of neighborhood regulars, families and grad students. Why concentrate on what a place isn't, while ignoring the virtues of what's it's actually attempting to be? The burgers at CC are $5 to $8 - this is clearly not an attempt at gastropub fair. Moreover, CC has an excellent craft beer selection at great prices... perhaps a step down from a Lord Hobo or Bukowskis, but clearly superior to most if not all the places on your "Winners' list (I am not familiar with ES beer list, but I know the beer lists of the other two.) If you live near Porter Square and want to have a decent burger and two excellent craft beers and walk out with a wallet only $20 lighter, you could do far worse than CC. This is why it's often so busy, not because the patrons are under the impression they're in a top gastopub.

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Cambridge Common
1667 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA 02138

Bukowski's
1281 Cambridge St, Cambridge, MA 02139

Lord Hobo
92 Hampshire St, Cambridge, MA 02141

[Blumie]

I didn't mean to start a debate about what constitutes a "gastropub" (although I agree that I used the term very expansively in my original post). But in terms of bars and pubs serving food, there are no shortage of those that, it seems, could/should do a lot better than they do. And Cambridge Common is one of them. They may not be trying to be a gastopub, but they are a bar that serves food that could/should be better.

[LeoLioness]

While I understand you general direction of this discussion, are you calling Eastern Standard a "pub"? That seems like a stretch.

But in the bars-that-should-have-better food category, I'm looking at you, Independent and Trina's Starlite Lounge.

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Eastern Standard
528 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, MA 02215

Trina's Starlite Lounge
3 Beacon St, Somerville, MA 02143

[tomjb27]

I don't disagree that CC's food could be better, but at what cost? If you bring in a new chef, revamp the menu, perhaps bring in a new bartender and start a cocktail program, remodel, the prices are going to go up. Now you're appealing to an entirely different demographic. It inevitably becomes more of a destination place, rather than a casual neighborhood joint with a great beer list. Russell House Tavern, for example, is significantly more expensive than CC. As much as I love what HK or RHT has to offer, sometimes the convenience, the affordability and the casual atmosphere of a CC are what I want. It’s the same reason that sometimes I’d rather sit in a dive bar with a watery domestic draft than go to Drink (of course Boston’s dive bars are slowly falling victim to the same drive to upscale everything, but that’s another story) Give us more, not less, choice.

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Russell House Tavern
14 JFK Street, Cambridge, MA 02138

[jgg13]

That notch session cask pull i had for $8 didn't seem like a great price ;)

[tomjb27]

Yikes! I don't go for the cask very often, so thanks for the warning. I will stick with pints of Mojo IPA at $4.50 a pop.

[jgg13]

Yeah it was their dark mild. I like milds as much as (generally moreso) than the next guy, but didn't think I was ever going to spend $8 on one.

[afty698]

I agree re: Cambridge Common. Frankly I don't want yet another "gastropub" trying to sell me a $15 hamburger. IMO the food there is acceptable and reasonably priced. It's nothing especially interesting, but it's also not trying to be. And there's a place for that.

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Cambridge Common
1667 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA 02138

[Alcachofa]

CC could have the same menu, at the same price point, and still improve their product. I'm with you that sometimes it is what I want. The point is, however, that there is no reason they can't be better.

[celeriac]

Agreed. I have no problem with simple, basic burgers, and in fact prefer them to most of the oversized, brioched and aiolied monstrosities that pass for good burgers in higher end places. I do have a problem with the food I've had at CC, which has been categorically mediocre and poorly handled. It's simply about doing things right and paying attention, which doesn't have to result in a $15 burger.

[CocoDan]

Not exactly sure how everyone here defines gastropub, but I find Ashmont Grill never disappoints when it comes to bartending, beers, wine, service and especially food. Their specials are always, well, special. Had a terrific crispy soft shell crab sandwich this past Friday, served with a delicious German style potato salad. And I still love their train wreck fries. As good as ever. Should be on the list of winners (at least their on mine). Surprised they had not been mentioned yet. Chris Douglas knows his stuff.
Enjoy,
CocoDan

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Ashmont Grill
555 Talbot Ave, Dorchester Center, MA 02124

[Unfoodie]

I really don't understand the hype about HKs food. Don't they still pre-cook everything except apps and burgers are the only entree cooked to order? Mixed drinks yes, beer no, food maybe, gastro pub no.

CC is not a gastro pub as they have little to no emphasis on food or mixed drinks. Same with their equally as busy sister restaurant Christopher's.

The Druids bar program is weak, hence not a gastro pub.

Putting John Harvard's, O'Hara's, Paddy's, Doyles and the phrase gastro pub in the same thread just doesn't make sense....much like your list and most "best" lists on this board.

ES is way too big, loungey and stuffy at times to be a gastro pub.

Biltmore and sister, Local 149, are winners. Great bar program and great menu execution with lots of different choices.

Deep Ellum, winner. Duh

Foundry has great beer and the rest of the bar is coming around. However they just changed chefs so they're back to square one in the kitchen. At the same time the place is always packed so they could serve pigeon turd flambeau and still be packed. They originally called the concept a "French inspired" gastro pub.

Central Kitchen is a winner. Great bar program with a small well executed menu of fresh ingredients.

American Craft is a great beer bar that doesn't serve pub grub. Same could be said about their sister Public House. No mixology going on means not-a-gastro-pub.

The Gallows does it right.

I don't think Audubon has changed anything on the bar since they opened. I've asked for certain thing have always been met with "That's a little too weird for us." Without a progressive bar program they are not a gastro pub.

The Franklins and sister, Citizen Public House and Oyster Bar, are winners as is RHT.

I'm still not sure about the food aspects of Stoddard's, Hobo and the Indo.

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The Biltmore
1205 Chestnut St, Newton Upper Falls, MA 02464

Central Kitchen
567 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA 02139

Deep Ellum Bar
477 Cambridge St, Allston, MA 02134

American Craft
1700 Beacon St, Brookline, MA 02445

Local 149
149 P St, Boston, MA 02127

[DoubleMan]

I don't think that's right about HK. They must cook their steak and fried things to order. They, like every restaurant in the world will premake some things on their menu that only need to be heated and plated for service. I don't think it's fair to knock them on that front. How are they supposed to make meatloaf to a la minute?

I think we all have different definitions of what is a gastropub, but my understanding of the term's origins in England is that it's almost entirely about the food, and doesn't take into account cocktail ability at all. I think it's about having a relaxed atmosphere and serving more creative and higher-quality versions of typical pub fare. I treat good cocktails as a plus, not a necessity.

[treb]

I like the meatloaf al la minute, I do agree, it's about the food and the craft selections of great beers.

[chickendhansak]

Agreed -- don't understand why cocktails are needed in the definition of gastropub especially given the term's origins. Of course it makes sense in the USA in the present day to consider cocktails a major plus.

[Bob Dobalina]

Don't think HK pre-cooked my swordfish the other day. It's still yummy either way, and very consistently so, as to food, drinks and service. Do I think that HK is worth the drive from Newton? Probably not, but I have the luxury of close proximity.

[LeoLioness]

You mean Highland Kitchen didn't roast my chicken when I ordered it? The pulled pork is not made from scratch for every order? Man, do I feel duped.

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Highland Kitchen
150 Highland Ave, Somerville, MA 02143

[Alcachofa]

You have some good points. But I don't understand the "bar program is weak, hence not a gastro pub" element of your criticism. Where are you getting your definition of gastropub? Though "pub" is a critical part of that word, for the most part, the famous gastropubs which started this whole craze had absolutely no "bar program" to speak of, beyond the ability to serve drinks. Should they? Yes. But they did not.

Where are these "gastropubs" which also have "progressive bar programs"?

I would agree the Druid is not a gastropub, but because it is just a pub that happens to serve well-executed pub food... as all pubs *should* do.

[yumyum]

I found this article in line with my idea of a gastropub --> http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyl...

To me, it's a casual drinking place that serves better than average pub grub. I have visited several of the "original" gastropubs in London and the best thing about them (and the model, to my way of thinking) is that they remain pubs but have simply spiffied the food up for the punters. Cocktailery is not a requirement. Good beer (and for me, decent quaffing wine) is.

[digga]

Here here, YY. (And I detest the word mixology...Absolutely makes my skin crawl, but maybe it's just me. "Cocktailery" is a fun way to poke fun at that! I'm gonna shamelessly steal and use that, too! But you coined it first!)

[Alcachofa]

That is exactly what I was thinking of.

[Blumie]

Sorry, I've been to The Biltmore several times lately, and it definitely is a loser in my book. They overreach and underdeliver.

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The Biltmore
1205 Chestnut St, Newton Upper Falls, MA 02464

[charlestown_matt]

Unfoodie, are you saying that you don't think HK has a good beer selection? While not as many draft selections as CC, Hobo, or Foundry, I rank their selection well above average. IN addition to a haldful of more commonly found offerings (Smuttynose, Gansett, Guiness, etc.)they always have at least one "Beer of the Moment" that is not found in many places around town (e.g. Wipeout/Pizza Port IPA), and their bottle list is respectable. I'll concede that those in search of a wide Belgian selection might be dissapointed, but overall I think thier beer selection is perfectly fine.

[jgg13]

They have (had?) Brooklyn Black Ops. That puts them in a class that's much higher than all but a very small handful of bars around here.

[langley]

I totally agree with the Winners and Losers list. I've only been a few times, but I may want to add the Citizen (in Fenway) to the Winners list. Someone can probably argue that it's not a gasrtopub and maybe that's true--tough call.
I've also never had a bad meal at the Franklin Southie and it feels like it's in the same category as the winners.

I'm curious about the Abbey in Brookline and if it would fit the bill, haven't been yet.

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Franklin Southie
152 Dorchester Ave, Boston, MA 02127

[LeoLioness]

Yeah, Highland Kitchen really does it right and so many other places just don't . I've eaten there literally dozens of time and recall only one "meh" meal and that was back when they first opened. I wonder if the chef-owner angle has something to do with it?

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Highland Kitchen
150 Highland Ave, Somerville, MA 02143

[Bob MacAdoo]

Sunday night at HK:

- Soft shell app special - perfectly battered (light coating), perfectly fried (greaseless, golden exterior), perfectly seasoned crab placed delicately atop a heaping pile of arugula, summer-ripe cherry tomato quarters, and topped with a creamy sauce that included a hint of garlic ... the crab was incredibly tender and succulent. It's been awhile since I had a soft-shell. This one was worth the wait.

- Chicken Tostada app -- damned tasty, messy heap of refried black beans, some nicely shredded chicken, pico and a crazy slathering of jack cheese atop a flat, deep fried corn crisp. I cut mine in 4, and ate it like a pizza. Finger-licking good.

- Burger - with jack cheese and carmelized onions. Perfect medium rare. Perfect amount of juice and flavor (sirloin and chuck mix, I'd bet 70/30 ratio.) Sturdy bun, no fancy adornments. And freshly fried fries. In sum, a fine burger that surely lives up to the hype.

All of the above was split with D.C. I washed my portion down with a few #527 margaritas and the rock-a-billy/soul/new wave tunes wafting in from the barkeep's stereo system.

The HK difference, as always, is the passion they have for their work and craft, and their clear understanding of how to do fun and food just right. Which is why the word perfect/ly shows up no fewer than four times. My only regret is that I was not turned onto this place earlier than 2010 ...

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Highland Kitchen
150 Highland Ave, Somerville, MA 02143

[yumyum]

I tried to go on Sunday night but couldn't get in. Damn you MacAdoo! Ended up at Foundry and was vividly reminded that not all "gastropubs" are alike. The food at Foundry is an afterthought which was fine for that particular companion and night, but man I wish it was better.

To the OP, I really dig on RHT. Try it a few more times and I think it will move from questionable to recommended status.

I'd place Gallows squarely in the "Not sure yet" category, as the food has been really inconsistent when I've visited. I want to like it more but I don't yet.

[digga]

In agreement about Foundry, YY. We went to Foundry once we were Mem Day parade-ed out on Sunday. We had a truly bad meal last time - lunchy salads that were shockingly bad (old greens, over-dressed, just yucky in general) AND took forever, so we were ravenous by then...even B, who will eat anything, was not happy with his meal. But we don't like complaining, especially about a pub lunch, to the nice bartender. This last lunch was better, but nothing to write home about. I felt like he recognized us because he was even more attentive than usual, and cut off the runner to check on our food himself. Soft-shell crab sandwich with fries for B (he found it lacking and bland...needed some spice) and I had an ok portobello sandwich with nicely-dressed salad. Both neither great nor offensive, but much room for improvement. But the nice beer and wine and peppy atmosphere keep us happy.

[chickendhansak]

I've been pretty lucky with the Foundry, which I've found more consistent than The Independent for food. Not saying it is stellar but I've had some very good meals there including the choucroute garnie special in recent times. I would rate the food above "afterthought".

[twentyoystahs]

I dig on RHT too (posted the same but it ended up all the way at the bottom of this thread)
And I also agree that Gallows is "not sure yet" category...really wanted to like it, and wouldn't say I didn't...but also not necessarily rushing back.

[yumyum]

So, I've reconsidered and I don't think RHT is a gastropub at all -- the focus is clearly on food first and not the beer / wine thing (although those are good too)

Had a fantastic lunch there this week and tried a new menu item -- deviled eggs, shrimp, honeydew melon, avocado and micro greens. Dressed with a bit of chile oil, but very lightly. It was just a perfect plate, each element on the plate worked together. Scelfo has a way with eggs, and is using them in many of his current dishes. ** Note the website menu is out of date.

Whatever you call it, it's a great restaurant.

[DoubleMan]

More places should be able to do what HK does, and it sucks there aren't more like it.

It certainly is harder to do what HK does than it is to do what Tommy Doyle's, John Harvard's, and Cambridge Common do. Why should we care to do a good job when we can just sling out crappy, overcooked burgers for $10-12 and still be mostly full every night? HK definitely has more talented people in the kitchen, but too many places can't even meet the low level of ambition on their menu.

I'd also add Green Street and the Indo to your winners list, even though I think they don't hit the great value mark on food as much as HK does.

I like the Druid a lot, but one thing that separates HK and ES from the Druid are the superb beverage options. The Druid is great for a pint, but it's not a place to get cocktails or wine. Similarly, I think Audobon, Tory Row, and Miracle do a good job on food and value, but they don't have strength across the board.

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Cambridge Common
1667 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge, MA 02138

Tory Row
3 Brattle St, Cambridge, MA 02138

Tommy Doyles
349 Watertown St, Newton, MA 02458

[robwat36]

I'd add the Independent, American Craft, the Gallows, Audubon, and Lord Hobo to the winners list and avoid the losers. Not sure if any of those places are as good as Highland, though.

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Lord Hobo
92 Hampshire St, Cambridge, MA 02141

American Craft
1700 Beacon St, Brookline, MA 02445

[DrMag]

I totally agree re American Craft- it is really one of my family's standby restaurants now. Great food and beer, PLUS Starburst candies on the kid's dishes = heaven.

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American Craft
1700 Beacon St, Brookline, MA 02445

[Alcachofa]

Those are good additions to the list, esp. Audubon.

I don't even think JHarvard's and TDoyle's should be on the list, good or bad. These are places that clearly do not give a rat's ass about the food at all, and would be very happy becoming the next Applebee's.

Cambridge Common, on the other hand, really could be a lot better with just a little effort. Probably could add Christopher's to that list.

[Bob Dobalina]

I think part of it has to do with real cooking skill. The Highland Kitchen crew turns out seasonal specials that change often (weekly? daily?), which is more ambitious than what most other pubs could hope to muster.

Plus, isn't the chef at Highland Kitchen the same who used to be at Green Street, hence the inclusion of the goat curry at HK?

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Highland Kitchen
150 Highland Ave, Somerville, MA 02143