LQ @ Starry Kitchen Starts June 5th
- Porthos May 25, 2011 03:07 PM
Laurent Quenioux's new pop up will start June 5th. Many of us Bistro LQ fans have been following this closely and no doubt have already made reservations (I already have). Those not familiar with Laurent Quenioux, well, I feel his cuisine was some of the best and most creative in LA when Bistro LQ was open. His new signature dish is: Teriyaki Rabbit Albondigas + Teriyaki Foie Gras.
LOCATION: Starry Kitchen is located @ 350 S. Grand Ave, Downtown LA
DATES: Jun 5-7, 13-14, 19, 20 (more dates to be added later)
TIME: 2 seating ranges available per night 1st – 6:30p-8:30pm / 2nd – 8:30pm-9:30pm
8009 Beverly Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90048
350 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90071
Hi Porthos, thank you for posting this, that gave me and my wife the opportunity to try it last night. The link was what we had:
We liked eveything except for the Mu shu Foie Gras. Personally, if the Foie Gras was a seared a bit, it would have been more flavorful, too raw.
Tonight is the last night, LQ will be serving at Starry Kitchen before he will leave for a month for vacation. I look forward when he comes back in August.
The crew was on spot as far as serving everybody. The water was being filled without asking.
It was a good experience, for $45, no corkage, it was really a good deal.
Nguyen who is the owner was there to serve and explained the dishes, and direct the crew while LQ in the kitchen with 2 other chefs. It was a well run operation.
The 6 course-dinner took around 1:30 to 1:45 to finish.
By the way, kevineats was there last May and he had a different menu. To those of you who have never been to Starry kitchen, you can click the link below to see how the restaurant look. It is very casual and actually get loud when fully booked.
350 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90071
We went on June 14th and mostly liked it a lot. The service was impeccable and friendly, the price was right and some of the dishes were excellent.
We felt the real standouts were: the oysters and mussels dish - at first we didn't think the kimchi sabayon had any real flavor and then little notes of kimchi popped through and brightened everything up in a really nice way. The fried cauliflower with it added a welcome textural note. I loved the squab, veal feet, ginger cone boudin noir (which surprised me because I'm not a big fan of boudin noir.) Strangely though, it seemed like the squab was superfluous to the dish, just an add on to bulk it up. It was okay squab, nothing spectacular, but I'd have been happier with more of the rest of the dish and no squab. The sea snail amuse was plenty amusing. It was like chewing on a dense piece of rubber that had a remarkable flavor of the ocean somehow embedded in it. The soy butter perfectly complemented it.
We liked the summer vegetables, et al dish pretty well, but it was sort of bland, it needed something to heighten the flavors in our mouths.
We liked the foie gras but also thought it could have been seared a bit more. The pancake holding it was just that - it really did nothing for the dish other than work as a utensil. It had hoi sin sauce on it, which was sort of a nice idea but it needed to be tarted (literally) up a bit - maybe with a squirt of ponzu or lime or something. In all the dish was too rich and so kind of blended too much into the squab, veal feet etc dish after it.
We loved the dessert. It was fun, colorful and unusual flavors.
Overall we enjoyed it - the atmosphere and friendliness of the servers and the explanations of Nguyen particularly helped make it. It did seem like a sort of collection of dishes rather than a well thought out progression of dishes where each one plays off or in some way enhances (even by contrast sometimes) the one before or after it. Still, if he does it again, we'll be there.
Went last night and the visit does nothing but confirm that Chef LQ is cooking some of the most exciting food in town. Service was stellar. There was no corkage and due to our party size, we brought 4 bottles of wine (champage, Au Bon Climat pinot, 2004 Pontet Canet, and 2005 Rieussec). I asked if they could just leave the champage glasses and we'd use it later for the dessert wine. Nope. They whisked them away and gave us new glasses at the end for our dessert wines. Service was casual, but attentive, and spot on.
Bread was okay, olive oil was better.
Amuse of sea snails: okay. The muscle portion was nice and sweet but the end, organ portion less enjoyable
Hamachi with summer vegetables and lemon miso curd and herbs and black sesame "dirt". I thought this was a wonderful dish. The summer vegetables was basically a succotash of beans and corn covered by the delicious miso curd. The hamachi was the highest quality and the seaweed added a bit of tang which was wonderful. The tarragon left a very nice aftertaste. A playful vegetable surf and turf with the succotash and seaweed. I thought this was stellar. There was so much going on and it shouldn't work but it all does somehow. My second favorite of the night.
Carlsbad oysters and mussels with kimchee sabayon and cauliflower. It sounds unsual but as you eat it, you realize it tastes familiar and is a bit like...chowder. A high end chowder with the sabayon where the cauliflower were like potatoes but more flavorful. The fried chinese parsely leaf was a huge pop of flavor. Also an excellent dish
Mu Shu foie gras. I have never liked mu shu...until now. The foie was rich but balanced by the vegetables and the sauce which had a very pleasant anise/cinnamon flavor. Not sure that its just straight hoisin. Went well with the pinot. I thought the dish was excellent. I understand why others say it needed more sear. The foie was cooked perfectly but I understand the desire for a crunchy component. I liked it fine the way it was.
The squab, boudin noir cone, and veal feet was my favorite. I loved the squab and how rich and flavorful the meat was. It was actually an amazing squab preparation. The boudin noir cone confirmed that Chef LQ makes the best boudin noir around, so smooth and flavorful. The veal feet was tender simmered tendon. Tasted excellent when mixed in with the other components. Very nice with the bordeaux.
Dessert was a nice palate cleanser.
I thought 4 of the 6 dishes where excellent. This is a much higher proportion of excellent dishes than I've had at the 3 Ludo pop-ups that I've been to where it was more 30-50% successful and the rest just okay or weird.
Can't wait for his return in August.