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May 22, 2011 11:01 AM

El Papa de los Pollitos - Detroit MI

Driving on Vernor with the windows down and this charcoal/chicken smoke aroma hits me very pleasantly. Instant drooling.

Pull in to El Papa de los Pollitos (4047 W. Vernor Hwy, Detroit, MI) and there is a massive charcoal grill covered with marinated/sauced chickens and an experienced pitmaster running the show. Go inside and Jenny (cashier/waitress/translator) confirms the specialty of the house is grilled chicken. $6 with one side and a whole with two sides $11. Order the 1/2 with an extra of pintos and 5 mins later magic appears. Two medium containers of very nice rice and pintos with mini-franks that are very good and not the pudding bean variety.

The chicken has been sauced 3-4 times during cooking and then again just before serving. I have tried for years to get my sauce that deep into the flesh and they have achieved it. The hot sauce(not really pico de gallo but rather hot sauce) is home made and really complements the chicken spicing. It is very layered without the overpowering cumin effect and the charcoal smoke is prominent. Jenny says they have a different hot sauce for each type of taco/dish/preparation.

I devour the bird and most of the sides and have to get another 1/2 to go.

They also have tacos (usual suspects) and the menu is whatever Mama has going that day.

The interior is rustic cafeteria but was clean if not polished. There are about 15 4- person booths. They said most of their business was takeout and I saw about 10 chickens go out in my 20 minutes at lunch time.

It's just three people, Jenny, Mama and Armando (pitmaster) so they are only open Tue-Sun and when the biz stops they stop but nice weather lunch or dinner should be no problem. Phone no. is 313 729-0259 to confirm opening and place your order in advance so they hold some bird for you. If they have to cook it from scratch, it's 45 mins.

No alcohol and the private parking holds about 10 cars. I wouldn't call it easily accessible for the disabled. VERY friendly people so if your brown bag had a cervesa in it I don't think anyone would notice.

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  1. Sounds quite good, but also sounds like a little too far to drive for me from Waterford, for, well...chicken. Still, if I'm down that way, that does sound quite inviting!

    1 Reply
    1. re: boagman

      Don't you think there must be a Northern Oakland county simile to the SW Detroit Chicken mafia? I know it's not exacty watertucky but we have to do a bit more recon on this. Even Pontiac would be better for me too.

    2. I think I know one spot I will hit up next weekend between raving!

      3 Replies
      1. re: JanPrimus

        A 1/2 chicken no sides is $5. Way better than a Pizza/Pizza! Take some wet wipes, you will need a field shower when you are done.

        1. re: JanPrimus

          JP, Do your grandchildren know you go raving, and if so, are they jealous, like me?

          PS--nice write-up GG, thx. Hope I get a chance to go some time.

          1. re: VTB

            VTB....Even my dad likes to go to the Raves....Better living through Chemistry!

            You are still invited to go.... :)

        2. I wonder if this chicken is better than the ones at Taqueria el Rey. Sounds like a chicken taste off is in order.

          4 Replies
          1. re: moose734

            What? A drive by challenge? C'mon Moose you need to write a review to warn the troops and then a Pollo Chopin, El Rey, Los Pollitos 3 way cage match!

            I looked it up: Taqueria El Rey 4730 W. Vernor for those of you that want to get an early start.

            Taqueria El Rey
            4730 W Vernor Hwy, Detroit, MI 48209

            1. re: goatgolfer

              It's funny , because of how you described this place ( cafeteria look, 4 person booths, mostly take out business), I thought you were talking about El Rey and that maybe there was a new owner or something. Hmmmmm, perhaps a Memorial Day weekend trip to Mexicantown is in order.

              1. re: moose734

                Went to Taqueria El Rey for lunch today. They have beer and it's a couple notches up from El Papa as far as infrastructure. The grilled chicken is significantly different but absolutely terrific. No real sauce on the chicken as it's cooked but it must have been brined because it was juicy and tasty. For $6 you get chips and a very good salsa, beans, rice and tortillas with 1/2 chicken. Same price as El Papa but more stuff and it's all very well prepared.

                Something about El Papa is attractive due to its rustic/family feel and very well cooked and sauced bird. El Rey is more of a true resto and serves beer and very good chips and salsa.

                It's a bit like fish or chicken. They are both good it just depends on what you are in the mood for. But, the cage match is still on. It will be fun to get R-sux and JPs inputs on different solutions to the same dilemma.

                And, before you ask R-sux, no this is not a repeat of the CDO french onion soup adventure. Although, I did go all the way up Vernor looking for a third contender other than Pollo Chopin...

                Taqueria El Rey
                4730 W Vernor Hwy, Detroit, MI 48209

              2. re: goatgolfer

                > Pollo Chopin, El Rey, Los Pollitos 3 way cage match!

                I'm "in" ...

            2. FANTASTIC recommendation, GG! I've got to say this might be the best restaurant recommendation I've ever received online before.

              Went on Saturday, and it was exactly as GG described. The chicken is phenomenal. I'm usually in the chicken-is-boring camp, but El Papa has convinced me otherwise. It's succulent, juicy, so moist. The flavor from the charcoal grill is brilliant, but the rub used on the meat before and during grilling also helps enhance the flavor. It's a very unique rub--spicy and red, so lots of chillies, but has sort of a salty backing, but also moist enough to baste on during cooking.

              Like GG later said, it's really not the same thing as El Rey. El Rey doesn't really season the meat other than brining. The rub/baste at El Papa is quite different. A decent analogy for El Rey's chicken to El Papa's chicken might be carnitas to al pastor.

              I don't know that I'd say it's worth the trip all the way from Waterford. But, I'd highly suggest a day in SW Detroit spent hitting up some of the tastiest spots down there:
              El Papa de los Pollitos
              Taqueira El Rey
              Nevería La Michoacana
              Pollo Chapin
              El Taquito taco truck
              Pupusería y Restaurante Salvadoreño
              E&L Supermercado

              2 Replies
              1. re: jjspw

                I'm going to let this cage match idea rest a bit for vacation season. But, before the Tigers are through I think an announced CH only, time-focused and juried chicken fest may be in the works.

                Janelle: Does Neveria serve pollo? I only see glaces reviews??

                And, a special invitation to the Taco Truck for a location centrale may be enough to get the Boagman to spend some petrol money!

                Darn. I hope Eppsie doesn't steal this idea...

                1. re: goatgolfer

                  Neveria is just desserts. Aguas frescas, horchata, tropical fruit flavored popsicles, shaved ice, fruit with cream. They also have some ice cream, but it's not homemade. I was just listing off some of my favorite places in all of SW Detroit, not specifically for pollo.

              2. Tried it and liked it for the most part. It's definitely not hard on the wallet. It's also definitely "rustic", as GG said. *Very* rustic...but that's not necessarily unfair in the grand scheme of things.

                My chicken was just a little bit overdone...the white meat wasn't really juicy, but it wasn't killed, either. The dark meat, with its additional insulation from the fat and what not, was better, and to be honest, I enjoy dark meat more than white, so it wasn't that big of a Thanksgiving (and on post-Thanksgiving sandwiches) I prefer about a 2-1 ratio of dark meat to white meat.

                I must admit: there is something magical about that sauce that they slather onto the chicken. It really does, indeed, penetrate the bird a good ways, and it's fantastic. It's also not barbecue at all, which I'm very glad for. Not that there's anything wrong with BBQ chicken...but if it had been that, I'd have been *sorely* disappointed. The additional hot "salsa" I didn't actually use on the chicken, and I'm pretty dead sure that it's not what they sauce the chicken with. I used the hot "salsa" on the side of rice, which I put into the tortillas, to make an erstwhile poor man's taco, which actually wasn't bad. The woman warned me that the salsa was "hot". I laughed and drank a couple of spoonfuls right in front of her. She was a bit amused by that, I think. The chicken's the story, though, and at $6 for a half chicken, I wasn't complaining.

                Actually, there aren't many things to take issue with at all. I'll list them, and then I'll address them after the fact.

                1. The half chicken is pretty small. It just is, or at least mine was. I was able to polish it off in full, along with all the rice, and all the tortillas. Normally, I'd be able to take some of that home with me, but not in this case.

                2. The half chicken was strangely cut/portioned. I've never seen chicken served in pieces like this: there were *five* pieces, and the only truly recognizable piece was the leg. Nothing horrible or anything...just a bit odd, to be sure.

                3. There's definitely a bit of a gap in the "understanding English" department. It resulted in me receiving more tortillas, which I didn't want. I was charged for them.

                4. "Rustic" also equals "no air conditioning". It's quite apparent that they do far more carryout business to the locals than dine-ins for, well, anybody. It sure was hot in there, especially after you've been there for a while.

                These, however, are "small potatoes" qualms with the place. It's just sort of the nature of what you're dealing with. My total bill, after food, drink (2 cans of cold was hot in there!), and tip (tax appears to be included in the food price...possible "wink, wink" situation, of course) was $10 out the door, and I, too, was tempted to take another half chicken to go, but did not.

                So, even with my minor qualms, the price point just can't be overlooked. They're nice people, they're working hard, and they're doing a *fine* job with that chicken. It's a bit on the small side, and I wish that it hadn't been on the grill quite as long as it was (for the white meat's sake), but for the price? Darned right it's good. Whatever complaints there are to be made, even I know that the price point makes it hard to take such quibbles seriously.

                Nice recommendation, GG.