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Seville tapas - Short trip report - May 2011

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We're just back from a trip to Seville and Madrid, and given that I used the boards here to plan our eating, the least I can do to thank you all is report back on our experiences! I have written a separate report for Madrid which you'll find here - http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/785949

We enjoyed some amazing tapas in Seville. Note that we hadn't booked anywhere in advance; we had quite a few long lazy lunches that started at about 2.30, and in the evenings as long as we were there before 9 we could generally find a seat. In most places, we noticed that things didn't really get going until after 10pm.

It might be easiest to divide our meals up loosely by area:

Barrio Santa Cruz

VINERIA SAN TELMO - Paseo Catalina de Ribera, 4 - The best meal of our entire trip. Wonderful food - a mixture of the traditional and contemporary - and well-priced too. Even simple grilled sausage was unbelievably tasty, and came with chili fried potatoes. We also had and loved - crepes with black pudiding and red peppers, prawns in Japanese breadcrumbs and fried courgette, marinated tuna with seaweek and wasabi, and Iberian ham with quail's eggs. Just writing this down makes me want to be on that sunny terrace with these wonderful plates of food again!

CAVA DE LA EUROPA - Cano y Cueto 5 - Just round the corner from the Vineria San Telmo, at one of the gates to the old town. Modern tapas - pretty to look at and good to eat. We particularly enjoyed langoustine ravioli and the Argentinian sirloin.

LAS TERESAS - Calle Santa Teresa, 2 - Traditional bar amongst the lanes of the barrio. Lots of hams from the ceiling and seasoned old waiters. The food was decent but the main attraction of this place was the atmosphere.

The above 3 places are all within 5 minutes walk of each other, and thus suitable for a tapas crawl!

Centro/Arsenal

BAR EUROPA - c/ Siete Revueltas, 35 - Under the same ownership as the Cava de la Europa, this place, between the Alfalfa and the Plaza Nueva, is atmospheric with tables outside in a small square. Both food and decor are more traditional than the sibling cafe. Tuna was good, moussaka rather bland, and both croquettes and salmon tartar nice though someone had been heavy-handed with the cream.

PURACEPA - Plaza San Francisco, 8 - Modern wine bar close to Bar Europa, just beside the Plaza Nueva end of the shopping street Sierpes. Great wine list. The tapas list is short but the food is lovely, and the staff very friendly. We'd definitely recommend it! They also have a restaurant, Albarama, a few doors along, which we'd have tried if we were there for longer!

ENRIQUE BECCERA - c/Gamazo, 2 - There are lots of enthusiastic posts about this place - at least, the tapas bar rather than the restaurant - and our experience was good too. Salmorejo (cold tomato soup) was lovely, as were the flamenquins (asparagus and cheese), and the grilled goats chesse with caramelised onion also very good. We found the lamb meatballs a little bland, but in general appreciated the tasty tapas served by helpful staff in a buzzy bar.

Similarly, these 3 places are close enough to each other (5 minutes from Enrique Becerra to Puracepa, and another 5 minutes on to Bar Europa) to form the basis of a tapas crawl.

In summary, I would tell people not to miss Vineria San Telmo, and I'd be happy recommending the other places we visited too.

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  1. Thanks for your report, I will be visiting Seville in July and have added some of the above to my list!

    Were any of those places significantly more expensive/cheaper than the others?

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    1. re: Shansta

      No, not significantly, that I can remember. Vineria San Telmo seemed to be the best value for money ,especially considering the quality of the food and wine. Our total bill was largest at Enrique Becerra, but then the dish of flamenquins - which were lovely - was a very large dish. In most places, tapas dishes were around 3 or 4 Euros each and a glass of wine around Euros 2.50 - considerably cheaper than we are used to in the UK. If you have not already found it, look up the website of Ahazar-Seville, which gives lots of info about Seville tapas bars. She contributes to these boards and leads tapas tours in Seville, and her website has lots of really useful comments and photos. (She was the one who tipped us about Puracepa - thanks, Ahazar!) You will have a great time - it's a wonderful place!)