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Beaujolais region

c
chefgav May 9, 2011 11:12 PM

Any one with things to see and do in the region would be great. Foodie/wine visits would be great + restaurant suggestion.

Cheers

Gavin

  1. sunshine842 May 9, 2011 11:53 PM

    can't give you a whole lot for restos, but these sites should help you find things to do and see, wineries, and accommodations:

    http://www.macon-tourism.com/uk/index.php -- office of tourism for Macon the more-or-less capital of Beaujolais

    Schedule of wine festivals for the summer throughout the region: http://www.vinestival.com/

    This is a page for a particular hotel, but it's a pretty concise list of the high points:
    http://www.chez-la-rose.fr/en/tourisme.php

    and from the village of Julienas - also a pretty tight list: http://www.julienas.fr/en/tourism_in_beeajolais.asp

    (yes, the misspelling is the actual web address

    )

    and the official French Ministry of Tourism website for all of France -- tons of articles on the site and external links, all listed here:

    http://us.franceguide.com/SearchGSA.q...

    (all these sites are in English)

    1. Parigi May 10, 2011 12:26 AM

      See Hotel Faurie in St. Agreve in this wonderful thread:
      http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/759348

      St Agrève is south of the Beaujolais region, in beautiful Ardèche.

      In fact there is a lot of info on Burgundy on this forum. Have you tried searching under burgundy or bourgogne?
      Lastly I also agree that if you try to go to Burgundy, Annecy and the Beautjolais or Ardèche regions in a week, you are trying to do too much and end up enjoying much less than if you focused better.
      As much as I love Annecy, for such a short time, the two bases I would pick would be Burgundy and Ardèche, mostly because the two regions offer more of a contrast in food and landscape.

      1. r
        rswatkins May 10, 2011 06:18 AM

        Chantal Chagny's one-star Le Cep in Fleurie is a do-not-miss. Refined versions of local cuisine, a great list of local wines, in a very friendly atmosphere. I would even recommend eating there more than once during your time in the area.

        1 Reply
        1. re: rswatkins
          Busk May 10, 2011 07:44 AM

          Then degustez at Alain Coudert's vignoble in Fleurie and cart off several cases.

           
           
        2. mangeur May 10, 2011 09:34 AM

          Again, you can drive the rolling hills between beaujolais villages in a matter of minutes. Many producers are open for tasting and selling. Beware the lunch hour when some may be closed. The country is beautiful and distances are short. Below are the hill at Brouilly, the actual Moulin au Vent and the Roche de Salutré, in front of which are the villages of Pouilly and Fuissé.

           
           
           
          1. mangeur May 10, 2011 09:52 AM

            Under the caption of "the unexpected", we found ourselves hunting for dinner one night when our host was not serving. It got later and later and we finally headed into Villefranche, thinking that a large town would give us more options. As we drove into town at 8pm, the streets were literally being rolled up. I finally saw a faint neon sign down a side street and we roared up in front. Restaurant Trakya. Turkish. The son of the owners warmly welcomed us, was thrilled to be hosting Americans and proceeded to order our dinner. Everything I suggested he countered with, "No, no. I have something better", finally even convincing us to order a Turkish rosé in Beaujolais!

            Mom and Pop were in the kitchen, cooking their hearts out and we had an extraordinary meal of a half dozen appetizers followed by ground lamb "sausage". When we begged off dessert, his mother came running out of the kitchen with two portions of her special pastry. Needless to say, the tab was absurdly low.

            When we left, the entire family came to the door to wave us good-bye.

            Restaurant Trakya
            119, rue de la Quarantaine
            69400 Vilefranche sur Saône

            open 7/7, lunch and dinner
            04.74.67.09.36

             
             
             
            2 Replies
            1. re: mangeur
              Parigi May 10, 2011 10:00 AM

              Hilarious story. I love Turkish cuisine. Mangeur, you are putting Villefranche sur Saône on the map. Geographically this is just right for our drive from Uzes to Mirmande coming up in June. Now I have to convince the others that we must stop where there's no there there.

              1. re: mangeur
                Kurtis May 10, 2011 10:19 AM

                " Everything I suggested he countered with, "No, no. I have something better", finally even convincing us to order a Turkish rosé in Beaujolais!"

                Sound of this would scare me in Turkey, but this has to be the best example of genuine hospitality... Always with great stories to share. Thank you.

              2. c
                chefgav May 10, 2011 02:41 PM

                I was actually after peoples advice on vineyards/domaines that they have experienced and which ones are worth visiting? Also the same for restaurants in the area?

                Cheers

                Gavin

                4 Replies
                1. re: chefgav
                  Parigi May 10, 2011 02:53 PM

                  "Also the same for restaurants in the area?"
                  We did share a lot of info on restos in the area. I wonder why you ask as though we hadn't.

                  1. re: chefgav
                    Kurtis May 10, 2011 03:40 PM

                    I can't help but to think it would be an enchanting evening to visit this Restaurant Trakya in Vilefranche sur Saône, chat with the family over a "heart and soul" cooking that is everything but what you ordered, and hear the tales, into the wee hours of the night, of the son's trials with the French customs trying to get Turkish rosé, herbs and cheese maybe even foie across! (so much more story to be told in this setting, it would make an interesting movie).

                    Gavin, I hear your focus, but I would take experienced France CH'ers like Parigi and mangeur's subtle advises to your heart, as many many have benefited from their recs and advises including myself.

                    1. re: Kurtis
                      mangeur May 11, 2011 11:24 AM

                      While perhaps not fitting into Gavin's perceived agenda, others might seriously consider Sylvaine's and Bruno's table d'hote at Poilly le Châtel. Featured in Stéphane Reynaud's "Ripailles", these two are urbane hosts, superior cooks and dedicated winemakers. The property has been in Bruno's family for generations, and he oversees the harvest and production following environmentally respectful methods. Quite interesting people with an interesting life. They have several almost grown children and a wonderful floppy dog.

                      Again, we stayed with them for three nights in 2009, enjoying their table two of the three nights.

                      http://www.pouillylechatel.com/index_...

                    2. re: chefgav
                      Busk May 10, 2011 07:09 PM

                      Get out your GPS and hopefully these will be listed.

                      Around Pouilly, Fuisse and Solutre, my favorites are Renaud and Andre Besson.

                       
                    3. Jake Dear May 10, 2011 08:42 PM

                      We love this region and its wines. We’ve enjoyed a couple simple lunches at the little “Le Chiroublon,” at the center (such as it is) of the beautiful village of Chiroubles. You can enter through the bar, or from the adjacent side street door. I still recall the chicken in cream sauce that my wife, Mo, says reminds her of the same made by her French grandmother. What a great walk we had through the hillside vines after the last lunch there a couple years ago.

                      We’ve had three dinners at “Chez la Rose,” http://www.chez-la-rose.fr/en/ , in the lovely village of Julienas – it’s a pleasant hotel and restaurant, run by a nice couple, Sylvette and Bertrand Alizier, for 20+ years. Also fun was “La Vieille Auberge d'Oingt,” in Le Bourg Oingt.

                      And finally, not having the benefit of mangeur’s Turkish rec. (sounds good!), after much hunting around in Vilefranche sur Saône, we eventually found, and liked OK (just good), another very simple place, “Restaurant Le Fleurie,” near the gare.

                      Oh -- a bit farther south, but “worth the trip,” is “Restaurant Jean Brouilly,” http://www.restaurant-brouilly.com/ (formerly one star, but now “merely” three forks & spoons), outside the town of Tarare. -- Jake

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