Paris trip report
We just got back a few days ago and because I love Paris so much I am really depress to be back in CA. Unfortunately I lost my camera(really somebody picked it at the cash register) at the Louvre, so I son't have any pictures to refer to in helping me remembering what we had in each restaurant. Here is a brief run down of the places we visited:
Saturne- This was our first lunch and I was worried if we will make it on time. We checked in at our hotel and jumped in a cab for a short ride to Saturne. I was surprised how big the space was. Our server was kind of cold and didn't help us that much with transalation. We ordered 2 menu and loved the first courses. One was a asparagus and green onion dish really delicous and the other a seared beef dish with asparagus and green onion. great beef flavor. Our main courses were not as great. We had a fish dish again with green onions and it was a little under cooked. The other dish was a sliced fatty pork dish in a tasty broth with spring veggies. This dish came in a bowl and it was very hard to cut the pork and chew it. Dessert was pretty good. The funny thing is, at this place they were a lot of wait staff but didn't communicate with each other. The original waiter knew we spoke English, but didn't pass it along and each server would serve us the food and telling us about each course in French and We wish we could understand what they were saying. Towards the end we asked a couple of the lovely ladies, if they spoke english and they said a little. I Think for the price we could have done better.
Jean Paul Hevin- The first sweet stop of the trip. I missed this place last time because it was closed on may 8th. They were out of the chocolate framboise, so we got Turin which was pate sablee aux aumandes, chantily and creme de marron. The price on their website is 4,90 E, but they charged us 6.20 and it was good but not great. We also tried the Opera tea and Chocolat chaud. Tea came in a small pot without any chocolate or anything at 6,30 and choco chaud at 6,60 was good, but I have had betters. We also tried the woman chocolate which was great, framboise bouchee on the plane ride back which was really good and florentin that was great. Service was very lovely.
La maison du chocolat- I tried this place, because Hugo and Victor was not open yet. I tried the cholate eclair that was fine at 4,60 and choco chaud at 4,00 that was too sweet for me.
Spring- I was really excited to try this place for lunch and it didn't disappont. We had an asparagus and morel mushroom soup that was really tasty and I was happy to see morel on the menu. The main was pork with a single small potato and dessert was a really refreshing strawberry dessert and a great dark chocolate dessert with lime zest. Wow that was a great combo. I will try this at home. Service was friendly and I felt it was a pretty good experience with a simple main, but high quality Ingredients and will return.
Bellota-Bellota at Lafayette gourmet- we picked up sandwich emotion at 7,00 whch was a litlle salty and boadillo royal at 12,00 was good.
Hugo and Victor- We tried to go here in the morning, but unfortunately they opend at 10:30 at their right bank location so we had to go around circles again to find this place in the evening and we tried Hugo chocolate and six of their choolates. Hugo choco was great, but what I don't understand is why we couldn't pick the choclates we wanted and had to pick a little box of six chocolates. What is the point of displaying them if you can't choose which ones you want?. My favorite was the passion fruit, the best one I have had.
Piere Herme- We tried croissant Ispahan and I really liked the texture and the fruit pate inside, but the top was a little too sweet for me. Another day we tried origine so chocolaty and rich I couldn't finish the whole thing, tarte envite that my husband really enjoyed, salted caramel macaron that was lovely and olive one that was too sweet. Great staff.
Poilane- great pain au chocolat and apple tart. I wish I could return here for their pain au chocolat.
La Bigarrade- One of the two great meals of the trip, but very, very, long lunch. It lasted three and half hours !!! and we had the short version. I didn't write down what we had but I remember lot's of great fish cooked perfectly with global flavors of Thai, India, Japan and more. It was a unique experience and a feast for your mouth and even went and talked to one of the chefs telling him how much I enjoyed everything. The only thing is they gave us the wrong bill and when I got the right one I felt that 6 Euro for a cafe is a little too much. I guess That is how they make their profit. Our server was plesant and him alone did 90% of the service with a couple people helping out. We were the only Americans and the table next to us spoke english. I felt very full leaving this place.
Kayser at Lafayette gourmet- This was our Versailles day and we stopeed at LG for coffee, java cafe and picked up sandwiches, pain au chocolat, almond chocolate for the picnic. I was not impressed with Kayser years ago and nothing has improved over the years.
Sola- Thanks to John Talbott's blog we had an amazing dinner here. We had the short menu and started with delicious foie gras, Very tasty fennel soup, very fresh yellow tail, amazing tempura asparagus. The portions were more than generous, cooking, flawless and service friendly. For mains we had the tastiest, juiciest monkfish and ham wrapped pork loin. Dessert was a platter of choclate creations, caramalized nuts, bits of broken cookies and much more . All I know, it was delicious with lot's of different textures. Food looked great here and every plate looked like a still life. Will definitely be back and a bargain.
Frederic Simonin- We had lunch here and had the menu. We had foie gras amuse that was really tasty. My husband had peas and poached egg and I had tuna with avocado mousse and tomato jam. He had paella and I had pork belly with the famous potato puree. The best part of the meal was dessert. Strawberry and chambord with the soft merinque and a rhubarb dessert. Service was friendly, but I noticed the ALC prices were high.
Jacques Genin- I have been talking about JG for two months prior to our trip and every day I looked at my map to see what day we can go here for their heavenly millefeuille. We finally located the place and were happy that there was not a long line. We tried the famous caramel millefeuille and it was heaven in my mouth. at 7.00 E for a pot of tea you get four choclates and that basically it pays for the tea. As far as their caramels I liked pistachio, hazelnut and chocolate more than the others. I am sure I will talk about their delicious millefeuille forever.
Pain de sucre- We trid couple of their rolls one was rasin and the other tomatos and anchovies and they were ok. We also tried one of the verrines with salted caramel, oranges and other stuff and it was OK.
breizh cafe- We walked a long time to find this place and it was worth it. This was the only place that we didn't have reservation and the host told us as long as we are out of the place by 8 pm we can eat here. We had less than one hour, but for crepes that is plenty of time. This was the tastiest most unique crepes ever. The texture was like a hard lace and great ingredients. My husaband had the complete jambon cru and I had the Bretonne. Mine had creme frache, bacon, scambled eggs and cheese and it was really delicious, but I could not finish it. Our server was the most pleasant young lady and I would highly reccomend this place.
Carl Marletti- I was really looking forward to try this place and unfortunately becaus of may 1st the place was closed. That was the only reason I was in this part of town and the reason to pick a greek lunch for sun. Oh well every trip there is on place that is closed due to a holiday.
Mavrommatis- For a change of taste and since sun is adifficult day to find a good place for lunch I considered this place. This was the only place that I reserved online and since Carl Marletti was closed we went here to look at the menu and a couple of guys told us this place is closed and we should go to there other restaurant across the st. I don't know if this was true or not but we ended up at Les Delices d'Aphrodite. We had their spread sampler and at 20 E it was a joke. It looked like two TBS of few bland spreads. The only standout was the smoke eggplant and tomato. We then waited for more than half an hour for our mousaka and guess what they handed our mousaka to the guy next to us by mistake and after a few bites he returned it. I was so mad and ready to leave, because I had a lots of things planned and wanted my food. One of the waiters said it is worth the wait and he was right. The guy who runs this place is jerk though. We liked the mousaka so much we had it again the following night at Lafayette branch with a tasty greek salad.
Un Dimanche a Paris- We went around the circle for more than one hour, but we didn't find it. I know we must have been close to it a few times. My poor husband wanted his coffee and sweet fix, but I guess it was not meant to be and we ended up at Piere Herme instead. Next time I will bring a GPS.
Jadis- Our last lunch in Paris. I almos skipped this place due to the location, but a chef blogger talked highly and I made the reservation. My husband did not like the neighborhood, but hey you have to see all parts of Paris, not just the glitzy parts. We were going to go for the menu, but it didn't look that exciting and since this was our last lunch we went ALC. My husband had the crevettes cristal a few perfectly cooked shrimps, I had a jambon noire plate. For mains he had St jacues and I had langoustine with gateau de foe blond. Everything was cooked perfectly and it was simple and delicious. Our server was cold though.
Des Gateaux et du pain- This place almost didn't make it on my list due to the location, but at the last minute I read a review and I was sold. I left this place for last because every time I travel anywhere with good bread I always bring back some. I have never brought back bread before from Europe, but there is a first time for everything. I got the following:
pain de campagne au levain great bread with great crust. I snacked on this through the plane ride, since the plane food was sooooo bad.
Pain aux noix au levain great bread specially with cheese
Pain noisettes curcuma raisins, Pain aux graines comté and Pain noir my favorite.
we also got the very delicous Religieuse caramel fleur de sel although I wanted the Saint honoré cassis violette, but since we were walking for a while my husband figured this one would not travel well. Finally something I haver never had before and it was so great, Chausson fruits rouges et violette. Next time I come to Paris I have to look for a hotel near this place!!! My kind of place.
Berthillon- My favorite last time. We got fraise(too sweet), mûre de framboisier(perfect, perfect), capuccino(surprisingly good) and Gianduja à l'orange(pretty good).
All in all we had a great trip and wished we had more hours in a day to eat more. Most of the restaurants with the exception of spring were french dinners. Most places provided good service. The patisserie and boulangeries had the friendliest staff. I would be happy with one of this great restaurants in our area and Paris is light years a head in pastry and bread from this country.
Thanks for this report. While I'm sorry about your camera, your recall supplied extraordinary detail.
I can understand your problem finding Pierre Cluizel's new shop/atelier/restaurant. It occupies several units on the east side of the Cour du Commerce Saint André passage that runs from rue St. André des Arts to St. Germain. Worse, it is subtle in design and color and one can easily walk past thinking them studios or offices or... Within, it is a beehive of activity and deliciousness. Next time...
Great report. The streets of Paris can be confusing -- I never travel without my Plan de Paris!
Thank you and I was only in Paris for one week. Too short. I just had my delicious walnut bread from DGEDP and I will be very sad when my supply is gone. We were saying this morning that we wished we could ship all their stuff .
What a super report! Thank you for your detailed portrait. I will definitely be referring back to this when we visit Paris next week!