My husband and I will be in Paris for the first half of June. We are renting an apartment on the Ile Saint-Louis, overlooking the Seine. We plan to visit some of the markets and do a bit of our own cooking. Does anyone have a favorite market, charcuterie, boulangerie to recommend?
Also, cafes as we are out and about - all information appreciated - thanks!
Did you search under Paris market, café, charcuterie, boulangerie, and find nothing you liked?
Market at President Wilson Boulevard, 16th. Wed. and Sat.
Baguette at Le Grenier a Pain Abbesses, 18th
Pastries at Hugo & Victor, 1st and 7th, and Pain de Sucre, 3rd
Ice Cream at Bac a Glaces, 7th
Cheese at Dubois, 5th
Oil, vinegar, mustard at Leblanc, 6th
Butter, Bordier demi-sel, Da Rosa, 6th or Grand Epicerie, 7th
re: Nancy S.
Many thanks for your suggestions, Nancy! This is exactly what I needed. This will be only our second trip to Paris - first trip was very fast and too much 'by the book'. This time we plan to just let things unfold. Last time we stayed in Saint Germaine and loved it. I'm kind of worried about being 'isolated' on the Ile St. Louis (have heard there are no restaurants to speak of there). Your suggestions work perfectly with our plan to get out there and roam, picking up things as we go. Thanks again!
re: anne e.
"I'm kind of worried about being 'isolated' on the Ile St. Louis (have heard there are no restaurants to speak of there)." - best to walk over the bridge to the left or right banks (it must be all of 50 meters) and eat and shop there. The left is best IMO but the Marais isn't far on the right bank - 10 minutes walk - hardly isolated.
There are lots of restaurants on Ile Saint Louis but none get good reviews on this board except, perhaps, Mon Vieil Ami.
Mon Vieil Ami, 69 rue Saint Louis en l'Île 75004 Paris Tél. 01 40 46 01 35 closed Mon Tue
Restaurant L'Ilot Vache 35, rue Saint-Louis en l'île Tél: 01 46 33 55 16 closed Sun
Le Tastevin 46, rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Île 75004 Tél. : 01 43 54 17 31
Lutetia Ile Saint Louis 33, quai Bourbon 75001 Paris tel: 01 40 51 80 30
Aux Fous de L'Ile 33 rue des Deux Ponts - 75004 Paris Tél. : 01 43 25 76 67 closed Sun
L'Orangerie de Paris 28 Rue Saint Louis en L'île T. : +33.(0)126.96.36.199.98 closed Mon
Le Fin Gourmet 42 Rue St Louis en l'Ile, 75004 Paris tel: +33 01 43 26 79 27 closed mon tue
La Chaumière en l'Isle 4 Rue Jean du Bellay tel: 01 43 54 27 34
L'Auberge des Deux Ponts 7 Rue des Deux Ponts 75004 Paris tel: 01 46 34 29 33 closed mon
Brasserie de l'Ile St. Louis 55, quai de Bourbon 75004 tel: 01-43-54-02-59 closed Aug
Le Relais de l'Isle 37 Rue St Louis en l'ile 75004 tel:01 46 34 72 34
Nos Ancestre les Gaulois 39, rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile Tél : 01 46 33 66 07 / 01 46 33 66 12
My research has found other recommended food shopping on the Ile:
Gabriela Boulangerie Patisserie des Deux Ponts 35 Rue Deux Ponts, 75004 Paris, France
+33 1 43 54 57 59
La Ferme Saint-Aubin (fromagerie) 76, rue St-Louis en l'Ile, 75004 Paris.tel: 01-43-54-74-54
Hours: 8:00 am - 7:30 pm; closed Mon Proprietor: Christian Lelann
And recommended markets within easy distance:
Marché Baudoyer 4e Location: Place Baudoyer Metro: Hôtel de Ville
Open Wed from 12:30 to 8:30 pm and Sat from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm
Marché Maubert 5e Location: Place Maubert Metro: Maubert-Mutualité
This is one of Paris' oldest open-air markets, with roots in the medieval period.
Open Tue and Thur, 7:00 am to 2:30 pm, and Sat from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm
Marché Bastille 11e Located on Boulevard Richard Lenoir, between Rue Amelot and Rue St-Sabin.
Open Thur from 7:00 am to 2:30 pm and Sun from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm Metro: Bastille
Marché d'Aligre 12e Location: Rue d'Aligre Metro: Ledru Rollin
This is one of Paris' most-coveted open-air markets, thanks to top-class products, friendly and professional vendors and dizzying variety.
Open Tues to Sun, 7:00 am to 2:00 pm (stands stop selling ca 1:30 pm)
None of these are personal recommendations as we don't arrive until August. This is just my research from this board mainly and elsewhere.
i lived there for several months last year...don't worry, it's not isolated at all...while i didn't have any fav restaurants right on the island, it's a charming walk to either the Left or the Right, and i really felt like i had the best of both worlds -- thoroughly decadent to be able to walk out the front door and decide Right or Left and have so many options...
i did love the cheese shop there though...it's on rue St. Louis, on the opposite side of the street from Hotel St. Louis -- walking in the direction of Notre Dame, it's on your right, close to that end of the island)...amazing selection, charming staff, and i also used to buy most of wine there too (they had a Sancerre Rouge which was my delicious default wine choice)...
Thanks so much for the good feedback. I feel encouraged! So, to sum, there will be lots of great opportunities to visit markets and we can decide Right or Left. Fun! As long as we can find bread, cheese, wine (you know, the necessities of life) we'll be in great shape. As I mentioned, our last trip was so 'planned', I think this way will actually open the door for some surprises. Thank you!
re: anne e.
hi anne e.,
yeah, that cheese(+wine) shop and the bakery two doors down will be all you need for those kind of necessities :)
...and for organic yogurt, fruit, nuts, eggs, i sometimes walked to a place at 30 Blvd St. Germaine, called Touch of Bio (in case, like i do, you crave some of those things at staples)...
Also, one of my fav takeout places when i lived there was about a 10-15 minute walk to the Left Bank -- Lebanese place called Al-Dar, on R. Frederic Sauton...i've never been to the sitdown part, but the takeout (braised chicken livers, hummos, fried cauliflower) is incredibly tasty, and many a night i got some of those things to go, and then enjoyed them watching the Seine and drinking Sancerre in my apartment, on the quai down below...enjoy...
I second the recommendation for Al-Dar. Chicken shawarma rarely gets better than that in Paris.
While we're at it, the Marché Maubert and its surroundings are remarkable for the presence of the Dubois cheese shop. There's a good butcher on the same sidewalk too. And you can have lunch at Le Pré Verre nearby.
You've got the (IMO) very best couscous in Paris at Chez Hamadi, rue Boutebrie. Head for the Saint-Séverin church steeple and it's quite close.
Excellent phò (in two services) at Pho 67, rue Galande.
Best Mexican in Paris at Anahuacalli, rue des Bernardins.
Jamon ibérico at Terres de Bellota, rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, almost facing La Tour d'Argent.
Best Moroccan I know in Paris at L'Atlas, around the corner. Has opened a catering business a few doorsteps away.
Around Mouffetard: Dans les Landes, Androuet, Moisan, Carl Marletti, Nonna Ines (a good little trattoria), a terrific Syrian pastry shop...
A nice little Afghan restaurant, Koutchi, rue du Cardinal-Lemoine.
Le Bistrot des Gastronomes (same street), pretty good.
Mitra — a nice, quiet, discreet Persian restaurant on rue Jussieu. Seems to be open at lunch only or to close early. They do special dishes if you order ahead.
All within a 20-minute walk.
It just sounds like heaven. EXACTLY what I have been hoping for. Thank you, Simon and wrldtrvl. We'll definitely try the takeout you suggested, too! And the Sancerre! And in the days, spending time in the museums and taking long walks - just living and taking in the beauty and history all around us. Counting down the days now! :)