Psst... We're working on the next generation of Chowhound! View >
HOME > Chowhound > France >
May 4, 2011 10:40 AM

Paris market news

Marché de producteurs de pays
Boulevard de Reuilly
Saturday 21 May 9h to 20h
Sunday 22 May 9h to 19h

Farmers from all over France - especially from the southwest - converge on Paris. You find very good cheeses and farm-fresh foie gras and - my fave - high-quality aiguillette de canard unlike the dried-out kind from monoprix.

  1. Click to Upload a photo (10 MB limit)
    1. re: ChefJune

      The inner filet of the breast. I think it's called the supreme in English. The juiciest part of the duck, à mon avis.
      Very hard to find at Paris butchers, because it's just a couple of thin strips per duck.
      Very much a sud-ouest thAng.

        1. re: Parigi

          my kid eats aiguillettes like popcorn. Always has.

          And oh baby -- they are SO much more tender and luscious when you buy them that close to the source.

          1. re: sunshine842

            You sautée 1 minute on each side and it's ready. Can cut with a butter knife.

            1. re: Parigi

              Is it possible to find aiguillette de canard at a restaurant in Paris without spending a fortune? It sounds delicious!

              1. re: ElaineL

                Maybe in a southwest-style bistro.
                Aux Produits du Sud Ouest on 21 Rue Odessa is a restaurant operating a butcher-charcutier next door. Once in a while I go across town to get aiguillette there. The restaurant should logically serve it.
                All the ferme-auberges in Dordogne and the Lot serve it farm-fresh ! And it's never expensive there.
                Order with pommes salardaises, cooked of course in goose fat. Tastes so great that it is hard to believe that it is even supposed to healthy for one.

                1. re: Parigi

                  I can get aiguillettes at my local marche -- very fresh and very good, but not the same.

                  They'll be 15-20 euros per kilo, no matter where you buy them -- fortunately there's no waste at all, so you don't need nearly as much.

                  1. re: sunshine842

                    During my last trip to the Gers I learned how to make demoiselle and it was one of the funnest meals I have ever eaten. We went to one of the local foie gras producers and ordered the demoiselles - which is basically the carcase of the duck with the aiguillettes attached and a bit of the foie left inside. You simply build a roaring fire and then roast the demoiselle in the fire. We ate ours with some of the first asparagus of the season, steamed potatoes and crusty bread to dip in the cavity where the bits of foie gras were left. A real caveman type of feast! Can't wait to do it again. Funny thing, this was a very cheap meal. I think I paid less than €5 per duck.

                2. re: ElaineL

                  Had it at Gagnaire twice in same meal , but it did cost a color TV

        2. Hi Parigi! Are there going to be any exciting markets (like the one in your post) in October? We are going to be there from 22-30th October. Thanks!

          28 Replies
          1. re: misochi

            You can find all the markets listed by arrondissement here. Click on the name for details (opening hours, days, closest metro stop). I could not find an English version though:


            1. re: Dodo

              Thanks! Is there a particular one that I can go to for freshly shucked oysters?

              1. re: misochi

                Most markets do have a fish monger.

                1. re: misochi

                  There is a Fete de L'Huitre 2011, on Friday, October the 7 at Bercy Village, Cour Saint Emilion. I am sorry that will not be of help Misochi, but for others interested in the bivalves, I hope to see you there!

                  1. re: Cheriekiss

                    Thanks Ceriekiss, we will be in Paris on that date (and probably full to bursting from a lunch at Chez l'Ami Jean), but then oysters would make a nice light dinner, eh? We'll try to check this out since we both love oysters.


              2. re: misochi

                You will have just missed two big farmers' markets before your dates and several after your dates, don't weep.
                And the major farmers' market usually take place in November in Paris and Versailles.

                For your dates, there is a big farmers' market … in Lyon, on place Carnot.

                And thanx for bumping up this thread.

                For all those who will be in Paris in early or mid October:
                - Marchés des Pays de l’Aveyron, at Paris Bercy, 7, 8, 9 October 2011.
                - "Pari Fermier" market, in Espace Champerret, on 14-15-16-17 October 2011

                For November and December:
                - Marché des Producteurs de Pays, in the 12th on bd de Reuilly, 19-20 November 2011
                - SALON des VIGNERONS INDEPENDANTS, Pporte de VERSAILLES, 24-28 November 2011
                - Marché des Producteurs de Pays, in the 4th (Marais, Village St Paul, 2-3-4 December 2011
                - Marché des Producteurs de Pays, in the 17th, on Square des Batignolles, 10-11 December 2011

                One of my fave markets is "Les Papilles en Fête", usually in mid November, in the beautifully renovated Grande Halle de Paris la Villette (the old slaughterhouse of Paris).
                Its website is hopelessly outdated mais voilà:

                1. re: Parigi

                  SIGH!! I love markets - but the regular markets that are open everyday should be well and good too no? Any recommendations for awesome oysters Parigi? Thanks!

                  1. re: misochi

                    There is a very good fish monger on place de la Bourse (Tues and Friday afternoons).
                    Do you have an oyster knife and know how to open them?
                    If you don't, do you stay in an apartment?
                    If so, just go to the fish monger in the market nearest you, as Dodo suggested, and ask that the oysters be opened for you for a certain time/date. Then come back to pick up your seafood platter at the appointed time. There is usually a token charge for platter. When you return the crappy platter, the fish monger will reimburse you.

                    A hound turned me on to Gillardeau oysters, which ruins me for life. On rue des Abbesses very near the metro station Abbesses, on the north side of the street, there is a café with a seafood stand that sells gillardeau, which you can eat on site or take home. For the gillardeau, expect to pay double the price of regular oysters.
                    Perhaps other hounds know of other gillardeau vendors in Paris…

                    1. re: Parigi

                      Hi Parigi, unfortunately we dont know how to open oysters nor do we have an apartment. We are staying at a hotel. Do you have the name of the cafe? It sounds amazing.

                      Separately, you had previously graciously helped me with my restaurant search and I have come up with a draft food itinerary - have posted it in my original thread. Grateful for your thoughts on the same - much appreciated!


                      1. re: misochi

                        La Mascotte, 52 rue des Abbesses. The oysters are great. I can't vouch for the rest. It is a real Montmartre kind of joint, which is getting rare for a street that is becoming way too chic.

                  2. re: Parigi

                    Thanks for the heads up on the Marche des Pays de l'Aveyron, Parigi. I think we just found how we will spend part of our last day in Paris!


                    1. re: Parigi

                      "Marché des Producteurs de Pays, in the 4th (Marais, Village St Paul, 2-3-4 December 2011"

                      Parigi, we slip-slid our way to this market during last year's blizzard. (Okay, maybe it wasn't a real blizzard, but we're from California!) We were disappointed to find only a half dozen or so vendors, then read after we got home that we missed half or more of the market. Roughly how many vendors should we expect? And do I now understand that they occupy the entire village?

                      1. re: mangeur

                        There were around 20 vendors in each courtyard, and there are about 4 courtyards. I'd say about 80 stands all over the large and small courtyards.
                        Did you miss some of the courtyards? We were there with Jake and Mo Dear today. I think it is easy not to see all the courtyards.

                        Last year on that blizzard day Randy Hound was with us.. Randy, does this estimate sound about right?
                        And Mangeur, it was quite a blizzard. I remember it well. But by the time it snowed heavily, it was also quite late, surely after 1pm. I remember clearly because by that time we were nice and warm chez Randy, enjoying his gillardeau and the pastries he made in his Lenôtre pastry class. At one point I looked out the window and couldn't believe the all white snowy exterior. Magic.

                        The marché productuers at Reuilly has largely the same people, and this market which took place in May had "close to 90 participants", according to this webpage.

                        1. re: Parigi

                          Many thanks. Next time I'll know to keep slogging between courtyards. :)

                          1. re: mangeur

                            As an antiquaire, you must know all the antique stores in the series of courtyards.

                          2. re: Parigi

                            Parigi, I don`t think I ever counted. I'd guess you're close, certainly 70 or more.

                            I can`t believe I'll miss the Marais one this year by one day. I have to stop in Baltimore, of all places, that weekend. Not for food - for my uncle's 95th.

                            1. re: RandyB

                              You can go to the Square des Batignolles one. It's a fun place too.

                              1. re: Parigi

                                Sounds perfect, albeit a bit farther than walking around the corner from my apt.

                            2. re: Parigi

                              I'm another one that missed most of the market -- but we were cold, it was chucking down sloppy wet snow by the bucketload, and I had wet feet (I'm like a cat -- I'm happy in any kind of weather until my feet get wet), and we still had a train ride back to the countryside to look forward to. There were more reasons to give up than to keep slogging, so I bought some lovely fresh foie and we headed indoors for a hot coffee before we got on the train. Next time...

                              1. re: Parigi

                                <"Marché des Producteurs de Pays, in the 4th (Marais, Village St Paul, 2-3-4 December 2011">

                                I remember being there with you that Sunday! Will be in Paris over weekend of 17-18 November. Any chance that market will be going on then?

                                1. re: ChefJune

                                  Dates not out yet.
                                  tried to look up its most labyrinthine info.
                                  Seems there IS a marché de producteurs de pays on 17 and 18 November, but on Bld Reuilly, not in Village St Paul.

                                  1. re: Parigi

                                    Hi, all,

                                    I'll be back in Paris on 15 November for a month. I'll definitely be on the lookout for those marchés. If there's one in Village St. Paul, we can perhaps have a reunion chez moi.

                                    1. re: RandyB

                                      I can't find a similar marché in village St Paul in december this year, but it may just be a lack of info.
                                      Usually there are two such marchés in Paris, over consecutive weekends.
                                      There is one in Square des Batignolles in the 17th, on 8 and 9 December.

                                    2. re: Parigi

                                      aaaaaaaaaaaah! Great good news. Merci, Parigi. I remember how wonderful that market was last year.

                                      RandyB: we get to Paris on the 15th as well. but only for a week. We'll be in the 5me near rue Mouffetard.

                                2. re: mangeur

                                  Does anyone plan on visiting this market next week?

                                  1. re: t14072

                                    Sadly, I will miss it by a couple of days. But as you can see from comments above, I and others recommend it. Just be sure you wander through the various arcades.

                                    I do plan on going the next weekend to: - Marché des Producteurs de Pays, in the 17th, on Square des Batignolles, 10-11 December 2011

                                    1. re: t14072

                                      Lucky me, I got to do that! We got some tasty morsels for dinner. ;) It was my first day in Paris.

                              2. today -- 11 September -- another marche de terroir:


                                Producers from one of the tiny regions of the Auvergne are bringing wines,charcuterie, and pastries, as well as artisan demonstrations, music, dancing and boat races to Square Tino Rossi on Quai St Bernard in the 5th.

                                1. Anyone planning on going this weekend (10-11 Dec.) to: - Marché des Producteurs de Pays, in the 17th, on Square des Batignolles?

                                  Since I arrived just in time to miss my local one, in the Village St. Paul (Marais), I definitely want to visit the one in Batignolles.

                                  2 Replies
                                    1. re: RandyB

                                      We are considering going too, especailly if the weather gets better than how it has been. Are there any stalls that are not to be missed?


                                    2. Remember also that Salon Saveurs repeats next weekend, Dec 9 -11, at Porte de Versailles, a week after its Espace Champerret show. I don't know if the producers will be the same or not.


                                      1 Reply
                                      1. re: mangeur

                                        I choose these topical markets also for the charm of the location, so that if the market does not deliver, it is at least a nice outing. So it's probably Square des Batignolles for me.