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Paris in the 16th (Auteuil) - any suggestions?

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Buzzy2 May 4, 2011 07:55 AM

I just arrived at my rental apartment (2 months to go!) in a very nice but quiet neighborhood near L'Eglise Auteuil. It is far from Lauriston. There is an Eric Kayser shop nearby, which seems promising, but I'd like to know if any of you have experience with food shops and restaurants in this precise neighborhood. I would love to get your recommendations.

My intent is to experience the neighborhood, and in time I will find favorites, but even with two months I won't (and shouldn't) have time to try everything. Thus I need your help.

I am not looking for top gourmet restaurants - I am familiar with those. I'm looking for neighborhood spots with great food, casual or not. I eat everything!

On the other hand, if there are gourmet food shops, I'm there. I got some great smoked eel, cod roe and raw Saint-Felicien cheese from La Grand Epicerie Paris (and some disappointing head cheese) but that shop wasn't close by. If there is a great fromagerie or chocolatier or boulangerie or whatever nearby, please let me know.

Thanks!

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    Nancy S. RE: Buzzy2 May 4, 2011 09:46 AM

    You're near a great baguette (Morgan Gantier at 2, rue Corot) -- 3rd place in the 2008 Grand Prix de la Baguette.

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      Oakglen RE: Buzzy2 May 4, 2011 09:50 AM

      I was a guest at Zebra Square; food is strictly mainline but good. Prices reflect the commercial nature of that area. There is a more resonable bistro near that metro but I don't recall the name.

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        Nancy S. RE: Buzzy2 May 4, 2011 10:18 AM

        Also, you're not far from the market at rue Gros and rue La Fontaine, on Tuesdays and Fridays. Joel Thiebault has a stall there.

        1 Reply
        1. re: Nancy S.
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          Buzzy2 RE: Nancy S. May 4, 2011 10:27 AM

          Thanks to all for your comments. I will definitely pursue the markets and the baguette. By the way, I've seen a lot of baguettes in my life, but I've never seen the full size version - is it called a Bag or a Bagu? Must be HUGE! (sorry)

          I tried one of the local brasseries yesterday but I wasn't overwhelmed. I don't care if I get a steak or a crepe, but it should be excellent. My fois gras dish was mostly warm but one larger piece was still cold on the inside. The potatoes were pretty good though.

        2. monchique RE: Buzzy2 May 4, 2011 10:39 AM

          You will also find it all on the pedestrian rue de l'Annonciation and the covered market next to it if you are prepared to walk up the avenue Mozart to La Muette...

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            Ptipois RE: Buzzy2 May 4, 2011 02:00 PM

            Aux Deux Stations, boulevard Exelmans at Porte d'Auteuil. A good brasserie.
            Le Petit Rétro, rue Mesnil (place Victor-Hugo), this is more on the Passy side
            Le Beaujolais d'Auteuil (porte d'Auteuil)
            L'Acajou, rue La Fontaine

            A very, very good boulanger, Laurent Bonneau, on rue d'Auteuil (Porte d'Auteuil).

            6 Replies
            1. re: Ptipois
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              Buzzy2 RE: Ptipois May 4, 2011 02:42 PM

              Fantastic! Thanks for the help monchique and Ptipois.

              1. re: Ptipois
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                Buzzy2 RE: Ptipois May 6, 2011 01:19 PM

                I went to L'Acajou tonight. I had a very nice baked clam appetizer (about 18 tiny, tender clams with bread stuffing presented on beds of salt. I ordered St. Pierre for my main dish and it arrived perfectly prepared (for my taste) - crispy around the edges and moist and tender everywhere else. It was served on a potato mousse with a finely chopped cilantro mixture decorating the edges of the presentation. It was other worldly. I had a glass of excellent Mersault with the dish for 14 Euros. It was worth it. Even the butter they serve with the bread was special. I believe that it was tomato butter, but I never confirmed it.

                This was a great suggestion, Ptipois. And it's literally two blocks from my apartment. Thank you so much for alerting me.

                1. re: Ptipois
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                  Buzzy2 RE: Ptipois May 22, 2011 01:40 PM

                  Les Deux Stations

                  Just thought that I should provide my experience for the hounds.

                  Had dinner there tonight.

                  I started with the petites pouissons because I have had similar dishes in Spain, for example, that were outstanding. These were just battered and fried mostly tough little fish. Maybe the batter was a little heavy, maybe the fish weren't quite as fresh as they could have been (read: frozen) so perhaps I got what I deserved.

                  They offered the second wine of Chateau Giscours by the glass for 16 Euros so I ordered it and the only real disappointment was that it was served closer to 80 degrees than 62, so the alcohol was predominant, but otherwise it was OK.

                  My main course, recommended by the waiter, was the veal cutlet in a cream sauce with pureed potatoes. The veal was hard - not overly tough, but it seemed almost dried. I'm used to good veal being very tender, so I was surprised. The taste was OK, but overall it was not what I had hoped for.

                  I ordered frites because I am on a lifelong research project on the subject. These were McDonald's-sized fries which, I have found in Paris, tends to mean that they will be a bit crisper than the larger fries that I have tasted thus far, and they were. Overall they weren't bad, as fries go, but I wasn't overly impressed. I'm getting the idea that lots of restaurants that serve frites in Paris have only one fryer in the kitchen, so although they cook the fries twice, the second time they are not fried at a high enough temperature to give them the crispiness that you get from great Belgian and Dutch fries.

                  Finally a comment on the bread. blah.

                  So, I won't be going back any time soon, in spite of the nice wait staff.

                  1. re: Buzzy2
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                    Ptipois RE: Buzzy2 May 22, 2011 05:27 PM

                    I think it might be opportune to put things in their context. Some places just do their job as local hangout and one should not expect from them more than they can give, and label them as worthless if they fail to do so, overlooking their good points. Aux Deux Stations is a textbook "brasserie de porte", and satisfactory to have at hand, but not really worth métroing through the city for.

                    The friture d'éperlans (which you had) is not stellar but then again it's quite okay for the context, no Parisian would expect getting anything at the level of a Mediterranean friture, particularly a Spanish one eaten while the sea is lapping your toes. The place is good for simple café fare like tartare, blanquette and chocolate mousse (excellent) and as such shouldn't be expected to provide a gastronomic epiphany.

                    If you wish, see my blog post about it http://ptipois.canalblog.com/archives... Like you I thought the éperlans were "a little heavily floured" but they were fresh and tasty.

                    As for the frites, well, there's more than one style of frites, Parisian-style frites can also be good when they're on the soft side. Then again you don't expect to get in Paris what you get in Belgium, and that's the beauty of it.

                    1. re: Ptipois
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                      Buzzy2 RE: Ptipois May 22, 2011 10:25 PM

                      I just wanted to share my perceptions. Each of us has a different perspective. If I had read a similar comment on Les Deux I probably would have tried another restaurant last night. For my taste, this was a miss. That's all. I don't need (or expect) Michelin star food, but I want to thoroughly enjoy my meal, even if it is a slice of pizza.

                      I appreciate all the great contributions you make to this site, so in no way is this meant as a criticism of your commentary.

                      1. re: Buzzy2
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                        Ptipois RE: Buzzy2 May 22, 2011 11:16 PM

                        My comment was more addressing my wish to shed a more nuanced light on Paris dining in general, as seen through the eyes of some visitors, than it was directed at your comment. Sometimes I do feel that a bit too much is expected from average-quality Paris eating places. As average-quality everyday hangouts for the locals, they're perfectly allright, if not great, and I find it a little excessive to judge them on the same basis as the one that is used to judge rightly famous bistrots and destination restaurants. Whether one likes a place or not, the question to ask before writing about it is how it delivers in its own range. The fried smelts and Paris-style frites are a good example, I do think it makes no sense to compare the former to Spanish fried seafood and the latter to Belgian fries. It does make some, however, to say that they were not entirely to your liking, but then you're really sharing a perception.

                2. Delucacheesemonger RE: Buzzy2 May 4, 2011 11:48 PM

                  At Ave E Zola metro exit, 100 yards gets you to Mayer and with his Pains d'Alpages, my pick for favorite bread in the city. Off Place Victor Hugo is the Dapper museum, wonderful African private museum, may be rehabbing now, check it out.

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                    wrldtrvl RE: Buzzy2 May 22, 2011 11:09 PM

                    I lived in the 16e, but somewhat south of where youare, for a year, some time ago. My absolutely favorite pastry in Paris at the time was a pear/almond tarte at a patisserie which specialized in proudcts from Brittany. I wish I could remember the name of the place or the street. It must be quite near where you are staying. It was on a narrow street that was fairly dark because there is a large school (a private lycee I think but not sure) across from it. It is not a major commercial street although there were a few other small shops on the block, across from the school. If you ever happen across it....

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