Michelin vanishing acts

[QdeBro]

What happened to L'Osier and to Kyubei in the 2011 Tokyo Michelin? Did L'Osier really go from 3 stars to nothing?

edit: oh, I see L'Osier is closed until 2013

[E Eto]

I know some restaurants don't want to be included in the Michelin guide, and perhaps requested to be removed. Anyone know if that's actually true?

[shekamoo]

Kyubey had only 1 star, correct? It makes sense if they would prefer to be removed rather than 'validate' the lone star by remaining? of course I have no direct evidence.

[Ninisix]

This is quite normal that the guide choose his information ! Or, it wont be useful or trusted if it wasn't truly facts. 
The chef Saitome-San (Tempura Mikawa), the 4-5 generations Izakaya Shinsuke, the chef Tsuji (Cha-Kaiseki Tsujitome), the master Ono-San (sushi Sukiyabashi Jiro), the master Takahashi (Cha-Kaiseki Hyotei) have refused to be on it categorically....In France, the famous Alain Senderes gave back his 3 stars after years, and changed the restaurant Louis Carton, still gained 2.
This means not every place want to look like a fairy tale.

[Ninisix]

Other, like Edition Koji Shimomura, have lost stars (in this Michelin guide edition 2011),  because of their high pressure to Michelin (stars ????) . 

[prasantrin]

Do you know for certain Edition Koji Shimomura lost his star rather than gave it back?

In another discussion here, someone pointed out that the guy who used to run Michelin guides stated that restaurants can no longer refuse stars. If Michelin wants to give a star, they will, regardless of what the restaurant requests. But if this is true, I can't see something like this going over well in Japan.

[Ninisix]

Michelin, as referred above, choose his information and stay with it, even restaurants refused it, gave back the stars, ,...
Edition Koji Shimomura is not anymore on the guide 2011 and a japanese web site refer to it, if you can read :
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/gourmefighte...

[Ninisix]

More, more, more,... with the translation below :
''This is not a statement under backdoors, simply a story heard, Edition Koji Shimomura sound about that matter.
Although, it can not be promoted, as some efforts on decoration/refurnishiment is necessary. Stars are obtained in echange of results....
Investment in this closing balance is so considerable...concluing by a no, or a decrease.
That inspection of Guide Michelin was a surprise. Specific recommendations like that, are unfair, aren't they ?''
That`s the look ! What`s your opinion ? a gossip ? your thoughts...

[prasantrin]

But if it's true that Michelin only rates on food, not on ambiance (remember, Sukibayashi Jiro got three stars) or service or anything else. So why would money need to be spent on decoration in order to get more stars?

[E Eto]

MIchelin never rated on food alone. That is why gaining Michelin stars in Europe have driven many restaurants into bankruptcy, having to spend so much on overhead costs like furnishings and decorations, not to mention the spending on surplus manpower for over-the-top service. In the 21st century, I think many restaurateurs have realized that Michelin stars are superfluous for running a good restaurant business, and may account for why Michelin has lost ground in Europe. I would think that is why Michelin made its push world-wide to make up for its shrinking foothold in Europe, and to expand its brand. While there will always be a need for the monied Michelin-seekers to feel pampered, I think most would rather just enjoy great food without the fanfare. I would think restaurants like Edition Koji Shimomura are better off without the stars.

[prasantrin]

Hmmmm. . I thought I had read as such (that only food was rated) once before. I don't understand, then, how Sukibayashi Jiro was able to rate 3 stars. Is the sushi so transcendent that all other qualities required for a restaurant to be rewarded 3 stars become irrelevant?

I know this has been discussed elsewhere, so I'll search around.

[shekamoo]

The way I understand it: Official Michelin line, maintained consistently and emphatically, is that the stars go to food alone. but it is something of an open secret that that is not the whole story and there are other influences and considerations, luxury being a supreme 'external' factor. so yes you will see the likes of Jiro, but that is not the main trend with Michelin.

[Ninisix]

In fact, craving for 'raw'(=sushi) is not the same as craving for 'boeuf bourgignon'(=french). The way of differenciation is not only on the restaurant, but in the way of eating with fingers, manner.. 
In a help of visualize it : 'it's 19:00 o'clock, there is 4 people in this tiny sushi, half the space of the kitchen, very cosy. Your seating on a counter, blond soft wood under your seelves, no need to introduce, a direct one to one service followed on your time eating !! These are beautiful shape body ! Curved dome cut and shiny.. Sure, Sukiyabashi Jiro Osushi has his precious.   

[klyeoh]

E Eto is absolutely correct, and I think the Michelin folks (where Tokyo's concerned, at least) are contradicting themselves by insisting they only judge a restaurant by its food alone. Sukiyabashi Jiro would never had gotten 3 stars if it had been a French restaurant in France where $$$ were spent just to impress the Michelin inspectors.
I understood that points were also given to a restaurant on how guests were greeted by the restaurant's maitre'd when they first stepped into the restaurant. A restaurant's ambience - from lighting to cleanliness of glassware/silverware, contributes to its success/failure in getting the star rating. Even toilets were given a look-thru (some say the "white glove treatment" for dust is also carried out) to make sure they're up to the mark.

[Ninisix]

We are not the same 'clanship of porridge', ... sushi with tablecloth and napkins, no thanks!!! The affinity is not the same on the features that they share....

[Ninisix]

There is many restaurants that has been vanished, the ones I know about are :
- Mutsukari, a modern Japanese in Ginza, in the 2009 edition
- Kyubei, a huge 5 stairs sushi-yasan in  Ginza, also in the 2009 edition
- L'Osier, a French classic restaurant, in Ginza, in the 2011 edition
- Edition Koji Shimomura, a French restaurant specialized in using less butter and cream, in the 2011 edition
As you've mentionned it, the restaurant L'Osier will be closed until 2013, the the building Shiseido will be rebuild. In an interview,the chef Bruno Menard said he might also come back to France and open a restaurant.
As I may deduct is that a restaurant with more than 100~200 settings are excluded, and as a sushi-yasan the interaction with the master is a big part of the entertainment.
As a 'banal song', I do like the guide even even... It's making me mad (=the 3 stars)!! Did you know that the japan guide has a 'manga' scrolling on the right side of the pages ? The Kyoto 2011 manga has changed in a 'steak version' after they included Kobe. The 'super song' is that we will follow until 2012, 2013, ...

[FourSeasons]

No more star for Edition Koji Shimomura??? That is a big surprise, one of my favorite French restaurants.