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Andouillette in Paris or Tours?

Robert Lauriston Apr 19, 2011 09:56 AM

Where can I eat a classic andouillette?

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  1. sunshine842 RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 19, 2011 10:14 AM

    Troyes -- it's famous for its andouillette.

    2 Replies
    1. re: sunshine842
      Robert Lauriston RE: sunshine842 Apr 19, 2011 10:17 AM

      Indeed, but I'm not going to be near there.

      1. re: Robert Lauriston
        Parigi RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 19, 2011 10:40 AM

        I seem to have seen it on the menu of Biche de Bois but won't swear to it.

    2. Porthos RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 19, 2011 01:27 PM

      Had a great version at Chez Denise 4 years ago...but then again, it was the only version I've had.


      1 Reply
      1. re: Porthos
        Delucacheesemonger RE: Porthos Apr 19, 2011 11:28 PM

        Saw it still on menu Monday evening

      2. j
        jbw RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 19, 2011 03:00 PM

        Had some AAA from Troyes a couple of weeks ago for lunch at Le Select (99 Boulevard du Montparnasse); good, although not as good as the ones I had in a small bistro in St. Mihiel but that's a considerable distance further away. They're also on the menu at Chartier (7 RUE DU FAUBOURG MONTMARTRE), but I haven't had them there.

        If you like, you can also get a platter of cold andouillete charcuterie at Les Pipos (2 Rue de l'Ecole Polytechnique; 5th), but that's not my style.

        6 Replies
        1. re: jbw
          Robert Lauriston RE: jbw Apr 19, 2011 03:27 PM

          Cold andouillette sounds wrong.

          1. re: Robert Lauriston
            Parigi RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 19, 2011 03:40 PM

            Agreed. Ew.
            Could jbw mean the andouille cold cuts?

            1. re: Parigi
              Ptipois RE: Parigi Apr 19, 2011 04:11 PM

              That must indeed have been andouille.

              Andouillette is everywhere. Particularly in Paris. Although it is better where the 5A is served, it is rarely bad. Even supermarket andouillette is good.

              Look for the AAAAA* label or the products from le père Duval, a charcutier in Drancy, who makes excellent andouillettes.

              * Association Amicale des Amateurs d'Andouillettes Authentiques.

              1. re: Ptipois
                Cookingthebooks RE: Ptipois Apr 24, 2011 03:33 AM

                Fascinating thread. I was just in Troyes researching and tasting andouillette. I met a charcutier there who flat-out refuses to be part of AAAAA saying that it's only for industrial andouillette. I initially thought it was sour grapes -- except the walls of his shop were lined with prize cups and medals (from other concours). This is just to say that andouillettes not marked AAAAA are not necessarily bad -- they might even be made in smaller production.

                I am not an andouillette fan, but I respect it. Also, I prefer it cold, the taste and smell are less pronounced, and the texture (which is my real problem) is more solid, less ropy.

                1. re: Cookingthebooks
                  Ptipois RE: Cookingthebooks Apr 24, 2011 06:15 AM

                  When cold, it is like a miniature andouille and can perfectly be sliced and eaten with toast and butter. Breakfast!

              2. re: Parigi
                jbw RE: Parigi Apr 19, 2011 05:11 PM

                That is correct: Andouille campagnarde; but i still wouldn't order it again!

          2. r
            rebuffet RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 19, 2011 06:29 PM

            I don't know Tours but i've been in Paris for 10 years and the best andouillette is served at restaurant Le Pied de Cochon which is a great brasserie located in Les Halles district (metro les halles line 4). It is a AAAAA as advised above. Remember France is a small country and you dont need to travel to Troyes to get the best of it:-) Enjoy your stay.

            1. t
              Theobroma RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 19, 2011 10:51 PM

              In Vouvray (2 km from Tours), you have a famous pork butcher named Hardouin. His andouillette is outstanding. He also provides some products to Lafayette Gourmet and La grande Epicerie in Paris.

              1. s
                Simon RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 20, 2011 01:45 PM

                Le Sancerre...in the 7th on Ave Rapp...off the charts wonderful andouillette, rustic vibe, charming owner


                1. sunshine842 RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 21, 2011 12:49 AM

                  Honest question here -- how can you eat andouillette?

                  I actually fought a gag the first time I ever smelled it cooking, (and still struggle with it) but true to my personal issue of "try it before you say you hate it" I did try a sample handed out at a recent marche de producteurs...and to me it tastes exactly like it smells.

                  I recognize the amount of work and skill it takes to make it edible, and can appreciate the whorls and swirls seen in the slices...but...

                  I'm horrified by the taste and odor, yet completely fascinated at the people (who I know to have discerning and cultivated palates) who flock to the stuff. (Kinda like watching a horror movie through the fingers clamped over your eyes)

                  22 Replies
                  1. re: sunshine842
                    Parigi RE: sunshine842 Apr 21, 2011 01:30 AM

                    I like andouillette very much.
                    The first time I tasted it was at a French friend's country house. She said she had hesitated a long time before serving it, thinking foreigners would not like it. She was quite surprised that we did.

                    Smell. There's no accounting for smell.
                    The same girlfriend who served me andouillette once brought some camembert to Cambodia, for her diplomat son posted there who craved it.
                    On the night train between Bkk and the Cambodian border, she and her husband unwrapped the camembert to make a sandwich. The cheese, as you can imagine, had been through a lot, including an 8-hour flight from Paris and then some.
                    A young Thai lady, a train official, at one point knocked and came in the compartment. She immediately darted out slamming the door shut behind her. (The Thais are very polite; I have never ever seen anyone slam a door.)

                    I accept that that smell was utterly unacceptable to her as the smell of andouillette is unacceptable to you. I hope you can imagine that andouillette, taste and smell, the whole package, can be enjoyable to many, just like camembert and époisses.

                    1. re: Parigi
                      sunshine842 RE: Parigi Apr 21, 2011 02:37 AM

                      Oh, I don't question that people like it -- and don't question their sanity for it, either.

                      I make a point of actually trying something before deciding I don't like it (in most cases I'll even try it a few times in different places and/or different methods of preparation)-- and there are cheeses that I adore that I have to hold my breath to get it past my nose...so I know that aroma and flavor aren't always correlated! (and I can only imagine how fragrant that Camembert must have been).

                      It's truly the only food I've ever come into contact with, though, in all my travels, that is completely repugnant...and it makes me wonder what I'm missing (or am cross-wired for) that makes others like it as much as they do.

                      one of my favourite menu translations was somewhere in Champagne -- they listed AAAAA andouillette, and the English translation, I swear, was "Don't bother, you won't like it".

                      1. re: sunshine842
                        Parigi RE: sunshine842 Apr 21, 2011 02:54 AM

                        Haha great translation. Very apt.
                        But many restaurateurs do have these uh opinions about what people of another culture won't like. Calvin Trillin complained that often he wanted to order an authentic dish in one of his fave eateries in NY Chinatown, only to be told: "you no like". Years ago we were in Sinorama (which has become Daniel Rose's fave Chinese<) together; I forgot what I ordered; motioning at CT, the waiter said to me: "he no like".
                        Back to you. You have the right attitude: try everything at least once. :-)

                        1. re: sunshine842
                          Delucacheesemonger RE: sunshine842 Apr 21, 2011 05:48 AM

                          A dear friend just calls it ass sausage. l will admit it does not work for me, perhaps my only smell turn off food.

                          1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                            Parigi RE: Delucacheesemonger Apr 21, 2011 05:57 AM

                            And you have "done" stinky tofu !

                            1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                              sunshine842 RE: Delucacheesemonger Apr 21, 2011 06:22 AM

                              disgusting, but...yeah.

                            2. re: sunshine842
                              mrbitterpants RE: sunshine842 Apr 21, 2011 12:56 PM

                              funny story. the gf and I were recently in St. Malo and decided to have some savoury gallettes for brunch. didn't know what Andouille was but all the other fillings for that gallette was what she wanted so she ordered it figuring it was just like a chorizo or something.

                              boy were we wrong. it looked fascinating grilled up in a cone shape. i gamely tried it and was not impressed. the gf tried it and almost threw up. didn't want to not eat it so we discretely fed it to our dog who loved it.

                              googled it after we got home and told the gf what is was and she turned a nice shade of green!

                              1. re: mrbitterpants
                                Parigi RE: mrbitterpants Apr 21, 2011 01:14 PM

                                If it was grilled it probably was andoudillette and not andouille, which falls apart when grilled. -- Doesn't help your case either way. :-(

                                1. re: Parigi
                                  mrbitterpants RE: Parigi Apr 21, 2011 01:40 PM

                                  i see. i didn't realize that andouille and andouilette were two different products. turns out what our gallette had was Andouille de Guéméné. its a very visually striking product and i'm sure its very difficult and complex to make but to my tastebuds, the effort isn't worth it.

                                  1. re: mrbitterpants
                                    Parigi RE: mrbitterpants Apr 21, 2011 01:48 PM

                                    If it is from Guéméné then it is andouille. Funny, it was the kind of thing that I took to at first bite. Wasn't even an acquired taste like foie gras and, well, wine.

                                    1. re: Parigi
                                      sunshine842 RE: Parigi Apr 21, 2011 03:29 PM

                                      and for me, foie gras was love at first bite.

                                      (I don't even claim to have logical tastebuds.)

                                      1. re: sunshine842
                                        Parigi RE: sunshine842 Apr 21, 2011 03:42 PM

                                        I am digging this thread.

                          2. re: sunshine842
                            Robert Lauriston RE: sunshine842 Apr 21, 2011 10:28 AM

                            I can understand why some people don't like tripe. Same goes for kidneys, liver, and blood sausage.

                            1. re: Robert Lauriston
                              Parigi RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 21, 2011 10:37 AM

                              I do too. I love them but would not serve them to guests.
                              In Sunshine's case, one's reaction is even more uncontrollable when it comes to smell, much more than just taste.
                              Several times I have run out of Asian supermarkets during durian season.

                              1. re: Robert Lauriston
                                ChefJune RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 21, 2011 10:37 AM

                                <I can understand why some people don't like tripe. Same goes for kidneys, liver, and blood sausage.>

                                Robert, I like -- nay, LOVE -- all those things you mention here, but you are welcome to ALL my andouillettes. ;p

                                1. re: ChefJune
                                  Jake Dear RE: ChefJune Apr 21, 2011 12:09 PM

                                  Three times in 5 years I've said to a dining companion, "go ahead and order it, if you don't like it, I'll trade." All three times I traded -- and now I've stopped making the offer. I do like Souphie's (outdoor) grilling suggestions, tho.

                                  1. re: Jake Dear
                                    Jake Dear RE: Jake Dear Oct 18, 2011 08:24 PM

                                    Update: Last month, I tried it yet again -- with great success! We were near Troyes, in Sezanne, at Le Relais Champenois, 57 rue Notre-Dame, http://www.relaischampenois.com/ , and it was andouillette de Troyes. -- Jake

                                2. re: Robert Lauriston
                                  sunshine842 RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 21, 2011 12:53 PM

                                  for the record, I love liver -- and while I'll eat blood sausage, it's far enough down my like list that I if we're somewhere and it shows up on my plate I'll eat it, but I won't choose it if given the option (that one I've tried to death -- I've eaten black pudding in Ireland, the UK, and Scotland, boudin noir with onions and with apples in France, and blutwurst in Germany -- it just does nothing for me.) I don't wrinkle my nose or throw a fit -- just not my thing.

                                  Just haven't had the opportunity to try kidneys or tripe -- I try to wait on some of the more unusual choices until I have the chance to try it when it's been well prepared and I can sample a bit before I decide to belly up to a plate full. (the one time in the UK I tried to order steak and kidney pie, they came out and told me that the kidneys had been unavailable that day, could they bring the steak and mushroom pie they'd made instead? It was *amazing*, but I still haven't tried kidneys....)

                                  1. re: sunshine842
                                    tmso RE: sunshine842 Apr 22, 2011 07:13 AM

                                    If you love liver, I can almost guarantee you'll love kidneys. Turkish or kurdish grill places will often have them, which would be a good way to try a single brochette. But since you say you love liver, why not just go for a whole plate somewhere.

                                    As for blood sausage ... have you tried boudin créole? It's different enough from the flavors of boudin noir and Blutwurst that it might be worth giving blood one last try.

                                    As for the particular taste of chitterlings, I can imagine not liking it, the way I can imagine not liking stinky tofu or ripe cheese. Cajuns tend to marry it with vinegar and chile, and Mexicans with medium spicy chile sauces and lime; both treatments really reduce the aspect of the flavor you're probably objecting to. I've had North American visitors who were surprised that they didn't like French andouillette, because they do like Mexican tripas or Cajun tripes. Alas, I don't have any Mexican or Cadien suggestions in France.

                                    1. re: tmso
                                      Ptipois RE: tmso Apr 22, 2011 12:18 PM

                                      Mmmmm boudin créole!

                                3. re: sunshine842
                                  Laidback RE: sunshine842 Jun 5, 2011 06:12 AM

                                  I am with you Sunshine; I eat almost everything with gusto, but andouille/andouilette. I am from the deep South and grew up loving Cajun food which uses their version of andouille in many dishes. On our 1st visit to France in 1969, I saw andouille on the menu and jumped at it to be served something foreign to what I had been raised on. Close inspection showed it to be close to what Southerners call "chitlins", not the smoked sauage of lean pork, pepper and garlic that is ubiquitous in Louisiana...degustibus non est disputandum

                                  1. re: Laidback
                                    Robert Lauriston RE: Laidback Jun 6, 2011 11:50 AM

                                    Yeah, Louisiana French vs. French French andouille is a very false friend.

                                4. Chinon00 RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 21, 2011 02:15 AM

                                  A few years ago my wife had andouillette at a restaurant named  L'assiette Lyonnaise (which has become Le Bistro Marbeuf). I don't care for andouillette but she adored them there. Maybe this place (which has andouillette on the menu) could be an option. Real tight space but surprisingly had very few tourists; despite being off the Champs Élysées.

                                  21 Rue Marbeuf,
                                  Subway: George V
                                  Open Daily 11:30am-11pm
                                  01 47 20 94 80

                                  1. souphie RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 21, 2011 06:38 AM

                                    There are many good places, but to me I don't see the point of eating andouillette in a restaurant. It's a pure ingredient play: have a good one, grill it, serve with mustard sauce. So the question of a good andouillette becomes: who does good fries?

                                    In terms of buying one, my favourite is the Monoprix Gourmet one (which you can find at Monoprix stores, obviously).

                                    Those who find it repulsive should try it cooked in red wine.

                                    4 Replies
                                    1. re: souphie
                                      Parigi RE: souphie Apr 21, 2011 06:53 AM

                                      "There are many good places, but to me I don't see the point of eating andouillette in a restaurant. It's a pure ingredient play: have a good one, grill it,"

                                      Totally agree.

                                      "serve with mustard sauce."

                                      Agree. Or good farm-bought confit d'onion.

                                      "So the question of a good andouillette becomes: who does good fries?"

                                      Totally agree.

                                      "Those who find it repulsive should try it cooked in red wine."

                                      We Catonese find nothing repulsive.

                                      1. re: Parigi
                                        sunshine842 RE: Parigi Apr 21, 2011 09:24 AM

                                        my reaction to that sample from the marche was strong enough that cooking *me* in red wine (lots of it) would be the only way I could possibly be convinced to try it again.

                                        It's the one item out of all the wonderful things on offer in France that I refuse to eat, so I have no guilt about it, either...that's a pretty good ratio.

                                      2. re: souphie
                                        Busk RE: souphie Apr 21, 2011 07:08 AM

                                        Nah, mustard all the way...

                                        1. re: souphie
                                          Ptipois RE: souphie Apr 21, 2011 04:06 PM

                                          Those who find it repulsive will also find it repulsive cooked in red wine. Better leave it to those who like it. More for them.

                                        2. s
                                          Simon RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 21, 2011 05:15 PM

                                          ponders the concept of an andouillette/camembert/durian-spread sandwich w/ Taiwanese 1000-yr-Egg garnish...i think the wine pairing would be a glass of Retsina...

                                          4 Replies
                                          1. re: Simon
                                            sunshine842 RE: Simon Apr 22, 2011 12:29 AM

                                            *falls backward off my chair at the thought*

                                            1. re: Simon
                                              Delucacheesemonger RE: Simon Apr 22, 2011 12:36 AM

                                              Damn, except for the andouillette, love all the other components, including the retsina.

                                              1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                                                Ptipois RE: Delucacheesemonger Apr 22, 2011 12:17 PM

                                                I'll say the recipe is a little short on natto.

                                                1. re: Ptipois
                                                  Simon RE: Ptipois Apr 22, 2011 02:18 PM

                                                  @Deluca, i love retsina too...and while Thai people will often caution you against drinking alcohol with durian (they like to whip out urban -- rural? -- legends of people who've died combining them), i personally think that durian goes perfectly w/ some aromatic white wine (a Sauvignon Blanc, esp a Sancerre, works well, but i actually think retsina might be perfect) and some almonds or pecans (i think nuts are key to durian enjoyment and the pine in the retsina goes great with those)...

                                                  but i also like to eat my durian frozen or at least soft-serve frozen, like natural unadulterated ice cream: i go to Chinatown and buy a whole one, go to the roofdeck of my building and chop it open w/ a Special Forces hatchet, harvest the yellow pods, toss in tupperware containers to freeze, and then discard the durian carcass down the garbage shute on the way back downstairs...(though, i must confess: after i did this a few times during the summer: someone posted an angry message in the garbage room saying "Someone has been throwing vomit away here and the smell, etc etc...blah blah)...

                                                  @Ptipois, good call on the natto...i probably missed it because i am one of the rare people who is "whatever" about natto...one of my ex-gf's (Japanese) considered it food of the Gods...one of my best friends (gaijin) thinks it's at least the 3rd level of the Inferno...me, i rarely order it, but am happy to have a bite or two in a group situation...but what the hell, let's add it to our Pungent Sandwich...

                                                  Hmm, i think we should make this sandwich, and market it to tourists near Bertillion and tell them it's the traditional French accompaniment to ice cream...i suggest a price of 80 Euro per sandwich...

                                            2. BlueOx RE: Robert Lauriston Apr 22, 2011 07:48 PM

                                              Here's what the folks on our bike trip had to say about Andouillette in Burgundy last Septembers:

                                              "Ready to ride after a stop for cafe in Pommard, so it was back to Mersault for an incredible lunch at Bouchon…pre fixe…bottles of wine; salad of chicken livers and endive with raspberry balsamic…the BEST…and ½ chicken with a garden of veggies (poulet et legumes) for everyone but Phil who selected the tripe sausage…BIG MISTAKE…however, larger mistake was for some of us tasting it!!! Literally tasted like $hit … merde… The WORST thing I have EVER tasted which caused us to coin our first French phase: “Manger de la merde et de mourir” . It only meant we had to drink more wine! Our dessert was ‘fromage blanc’ … white soft cheese with sugar (almost like Greek yogurt) and black currant sorbet…yummmmmmy."

                                              1. mangeur RE: Robert Lauriston Jun 5, 2011 01:54 AM

                                                Just found this lovely thread. I'm off my best game which was several years ago when I ordered andouilette almost daily or whenever it was on a menu. The most confounding serving was at Racine where it was served absolutely "nature", stark, bare, unadorned. When I asked for mustard, I was told they had none. So I ate it plain, all the time quite sure that I was being played.

                                                2 Replies
                                                1. re: mangeur
                                                  Ptipois RE: mangeur Jun 5, 2011 03:14 AM

                                                  I remember that andouillette. It was the best I'd ever had. Did not need mustard or anything.

                                                  1. re: Ptipois
                                                    mangeur RE: Ptipois Jun 5, 2011 06:55 AM

                                                    Well, it didn't get anything. :) But it does make me feel better, Pti, that it is you who vets it.

                                                    As a wuss, the best andouilette I ever had was at a village fete where the andouillette-master grilled them, sliced them up, doused the pile with white wine, stir-grilled it before plopping a huge portion on an opened baguette. More than any human could possibly eat. And I did.

                                                    The best I remember in town was at Chez Denise.

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