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Apr 6, 2011 08:11 AM

Milan, 2 lunches 2 dinners, bakeries and dessert!

I'll be traveling to Milan late next month and I'm looking for some recommendations. In general my wife and I prefer places that are more casual and that cater to locals.

Any bakeries specializing in Italian breads and pastries?

Two lunches. I'm looking for something Italian with entrees under 20 euros (even cheaper would be great!). One within twenty minutes walk of the Central Train Station and one within twenty minutes walk of the Last Supper.

Two dinners. We are willing to travel for great food and would prefer recommendations away from the main tourist district. Looking for entrees under 30 euros, preferably specializing in Northern Italian cuisine. Osso buco with risotto milanese is a must for at least one of the meals. The two places I've read most about are Da Abele and Trattoria Milanese. Also a friend recommended a placed called Ratana near Palazzo Lombardia.

Also should we make reservations for lunch and dinner?

Lastly, any great dessert shops or gelaterias? Or are we better off grabbing dessert at the restaurant?

Thanks in advance.

Da Abele
Via Temperenza,5, Milan, Lombardy , IT

Trattoria Milanese
Via Santa Marta, 11, Milan, Lombardia 20123, IT

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  1. Your ideas look similar to ours. I cant put up a page for Ratana right now due to site problems but here is an article on it. In my opinion you are almost always better off eating dessert away from your restaurant in italy unless it is a high end place with a pastry chef.

    5 Replies
    1. re: jen kalb

      I did some more reading, and I came up with a couple ideas for lunch. Since we're likely to do Northern-Italian cuisine for dinner both nights, I cast a wider net looking for lunch options.

      Near the train station I found two pizza joints that seem to be recommended: Pizzeria Sportini and La Piccola Ischia.

      For a lunch near the Last Supper I read about a restaurant specializing in Pugliese cuisine called Al Rifugio Pugliese. Apparently they offer a 10 euro lunch buffet so at least we'd get to sample a wide range of offerings.

      Any thoughts on those options? I've been struggling to find lunch recommendations, particularly that are outside of the tourist district. Is there a Milan blog or website that people use to read about restaurants in the city?

      1. re: turkob

        Yes, Spontini is great, but keep in mind that it's a relaxed atmostphere and serves thicker pizza by the slice. Piccola Ischia is also great, but the restaurant offers a more traditional pizzeria service and individual pizzas like in many pizzerias around Milano.

        Don't know much anything about Al Rifugio Pugliese, but most bar/caff├ęs in the city have relatively cheap lunch prices to cater to people working in the area.

        I can recommend 2 websites in English, Spotted by Locals and MilanoZine.

        1. re: walkerjly

          What about Biagio, a pizza place, for the lunch near Santa Marie delle Grazie?
          My hesitation is that Italian pizzerie are often open only in the evening. Is this the case with the pizzerie recommended on this thread?

          Via V. Monti,28, Milan, Lombardy , IT

          1. re: jen kalb

            Here are their websites

            Spontini appears to be open for lunch. My Italian couldn't figure out the other one.

        2. re: turkob

          Al Rifugio Pugliese looks like it might be good there is a fair amount of online comment on it.

          Rifugio Pugliese da Muciaccia
          via Boni 16, Milan, Lombardia , IT

      2. Hi Turkob,

        Search around a little on this board and you'll find some gelato recommendations. As for bakeries, are you looking for sweets, savories or both?

        Princi is located around Milan and has sweet and savory but I think their breads are better than their sweets.

        Another chain of bakeries around Milano is Pattini and Marinoni. They have a location in Cadorna Station, one on Via Garibaldi about a block away from the Moscova station, and one on via Brera at the corner of Ancona. I really like their olive bread sticks.

        For the best gelato in more or less my personal order of preference: Massimo del Gelato, Bianco Latte, Chocolat, Chococult, Grom, RivaReno. Any of these is really outstanding. Grom and RivaReno have a few spots around Milano. Enjoy your trip.

        Largo La Foppa, Milan, Lombardia 20121, IT

        4 Replies
        1. re: badwaiter

          Badwaiter, is there a good source in the Center for large, country style breads? I like to take these home with us and Milan is our last stop on our trip this year.

          1. re: badwaiter

            Definitely looking for both sweet and savory. Thanks for the recs!

            1. re: turkob

              Jen, I would try the Princi location on Via Speronari which is truly the center of Milan. The other locations, like the Largo De Foppa location are certainly central enough. You could likely walk from one to the other in about 20 min.

              For sweets, I like two places. They are both named Ranieri but they aren't related. The first is at via Moscova 7 and the closest stop is Turati. The other is on Via Volta 6 and the closest stop is Moscova. Both make all their own stuff. These are along the lines of the famous Cova pasticceria in Montenapoleone and while they aren't cheap, they are cheaper than Cova.

              6 Via Speronari, Milan, Lombardia 20123, IT

              Pasticceria Ranieri
              Via Alessandro Volta, Milan, Lombardia 20121, IT

              Pasticceria Ranieri
              Via della Moscova, Milan, Lombardia 20121, IT

              Pattini and Marinoni
              Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, Milan, Lombardia 20121, IT

              Cova Pasticceria
              Via Monte Napoleone, Milan, Lombardia 20121, IT

            2. re: badwaiter

              Massimo Del Gelato

              Massimo Del Gelato
              Via Lodovico Castelvetro, Milan, Lombardia 20154, IT

              Via Michelangelo Buonarroti, Milan, Lombardia 20149, IT

            3. * Had excellent gelato @ Chocolat

              * Had nice cornetto + capp @ Marchesi (en route to Last Supper). Has anyone tried their panettone during the holidays? Is it worth a detour?

              * For snack/light lunch (although the 5 pieces of cheese wasn't exaclty light!), we enjoyed Obika ontop of La Rinascente beside the Duomo. Yes, a bit trappy, and yes the patio was quite busy.. but the views of the Duomo were amazing, and the cheese was delicious.

              Tried to visit Trattoria Milanese.. and they took our reservation, but alas, when we arrived they were closed (!).

              * Walked around 10 Corso Como and decided to stop by the Princi nearby. Great baked items (we had pizza, which was good.. tiramisu, nothing special) in a dark and sleek room. The one in London is alot bigger though. If you go to this location in Milan, there are only a few (uncomfortable) seats on the other side of the counter.. you'd best eat and run!

              * For aperitivo, everyone raves about Miani/Bar Zucca in the Galleria. Found the drinks acceptable, but the snacks pretty vile. We wouldn't return, but I guess given its history, it's worth stopping in for a quick drink before leaving the Galleria..

              * People also rave about Cova , and again, nothing special (actually, the pastries were instantly forgettable), more for the history. Both places (Miani, Cova) were slammed when we went!

              Side note: If you walk thru the Galleria, observe the line ups @ the McD's there. Absolute madness!

              Enjoy Milano :)

              Trattoria Milanese
              Via Santa Marta, 11, Milan, Lombardia 20123, IT

              3 Replies
              1. re: DistendedBelly

                thanks for the report! Good info for my visit. (selfish interest!)

                Added a few links for you - didnt know which Obika you went to so added links to both.

                FYI and not just for you, You might want to delete the incorrect La Rinascente link generated by your post. you have two chances to do this - first when you get to the bottom of your post if you click on Manage your links it will show autogenerated links - you can delete wrong ones or try to add additional stuff - your choice.. Second after you post it will show the links generated - if they look wrong, such ash having an address in the wrong town you can delete. Or like now, you can edit your post for up to 2 hrs to delete the link.

                Zucca in Galleria aka Caffe Miani
                Piazza del Duomo,21, Milan, Lombardia 20121, IT

                Pasticceria Marchesi
                Via Santa Maria alla Porta,11, Milan, Lombardia 20123, IT

                1. re: jen kalb

                  those links I promised

                  Obika Milano Brera
                  Via Mercato,corner Via Fiori Chiari, Milan, Lombardia 20121, IT

                  Obika Milano Duomo
                  Via Santa Radegonda,1, Milan, Lombardia 20121, IT

                  1. re: jen kalb

                    Oops! I am still a n00b here, and didn't realize the wrong links - thanks for pointing it out, and thanks for posting the correct ones! Now I know how to correct for future posts.

                    I really liked Milan when we went. It's too bad it gets such a bad rap, and that people think shopping is all that it has to offer.

                2. 20-min walk cheap lunches:

                  Last Supper: On Corso Magenta 9 walking back in the direction of the center is DeSantis sandwich shop. They have an extensive menu but it's not really a sit down place unless you can snag a stool or a small table. Could be hard at lunch.

                  Pane Salame: I've walked by this place a bunch but never eaten there. It seems decent and they have a lunch special. It's basically one giant city block away from the Cenacolo at Via Monti 6. On the other side of Piazza Virgilio (a big traffic circle) you'll find the aforementioned Chocolat.

                  Central Station:

                  This is not a restaurant, but Break Bianco on Corso Porta Nuova 32 does really nice small take away pizzas and focaccia. Again, this is a super cheap option but if it's a nice day you can do a lot worse than grabbing one or two things from here and then heading over to the Giardini Pubblici. Save on lunch, splurge on dinner.

                  ps-- will link rest. when I get a chance.

                  9 Via Giovanni Boccaccio, Milan, Lombardia 20123, IT

                  De Santis
                  9 Corso Magenta, Milan, Lombardia 20123, IT