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APRIL 2011 AMFT/Greenspan: Chicken and duck; beef, veal, pork, and lamb; fish and shellfish

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  1. We particularly liked the pork tenderloin with oranges and cardamom - you cut the tenderloin in inch or so slices, brown them in butter, and simmer them in OJ with cardamom seeds added. I put the orange filets and julienned rind in at the end. Very nice dish and super for the winter when a nice sunshiny fruit goes well and the oranges are at their best. Wonderful with Temples (my favorite citrus except for blood oranges).
    The daube de boeuf is also delicious and simple to make.

    8 Replies
    1. re: buttertart

      Okay buttertart, that one sounds great! As I open my copy of the book, thinking about what to make tomorrow night...

      1. re: buttertart

        Hah, as soon as I started to read your post I was thinking "blood oranges would be great" so it was funny to see your final note on the oranges. I'll have to look for Temples as I think we've seen the last of the blood oranges here for now. Glad to know this is a hit buttertart, it's one I've flagged for the month ahead. Great review!

        1. re: Breadcrumbs

          I think Temples are done though - they're a Feb/March orange here (can you get them in T.O.? I've only seen them in NY).

          1. re: buttertart

            I saw them over at Fairway today so there are still some around but yeah, they are one of those very short season things and my fave too, except for a late Jamaican citrus variety I have not been able to find for a few years. ortaniques

            1. re: jen kalb

              I love ortaniques jen, haven't seen them in ages here either. I'll be sure to report back if I can find Temples

              1. re: jen kalb

                UWS Fairway? Must send husband if so. Thanks v much, jen kalb.
                I've never had an ortanique.
                On the Chinatown fruit thread jumpingmonk tantalized me with the report of a blood orange-tangelo cross - that I'd really like to get my mitts on.

          2. re: buttertart

            This made a satisying and healthy dinner tonight. The pork was tender and delicious. I especially like how quick this is to put together and that the dish only contains 4 ingredients (pork, orange, cardamom and onions).

            1. re: buttertart

              Fresh Orange Pork Tenderloin – p. 273 (Beef, Veal, Pork and Lamb)

              The most time-consuming element in the preparation of this dish it the supreming of two oranges. The recipe calls for 4 oranges in total. Two are supremed and two are zested then juiced. You also need to finely chop an onion or, 4 spring onions. I chose to use both; cooking the regular onion and, garnishing w the green onion. Pork is cut in to 4-8 even pieces depending on the size of the tenderloin.

              Equal portions of butter and oil are heated in a skillet and when the mixture is hot, pork pieces are browned on all sides and seasoned w S&P as you go. DG then instructs you to add the zest, juice, onion and cardamom. Since I chose to use regular onion I decided to add that first to let it cook a little before adding the remaining ingredients. Once the sauce starts to bubble, the lid is placed on the pan and heat is reduced to produce a gentle simmer and is left undisturbed for 10 minutes. Orange segments are then added, pan is covered again and sauce continues to simmer for 3 minutes or, until the pork is cooked through.

              DG instructs you to remove the pork and orange segments and cook the sauce down if it is not as thick as you’d like. Dish is then plated and served asap.

              Unfortunately someone must have stolen my cardamom pods because there were none to be found in my pantry. Ok, so maybe I forgot to replenish my stock when I finished them off the last time. Luckily I did have some ground cardamom that I picked up a couple of weeks ago so that had to suffice tonight. Not sure how much that impacted the outcome of this dish but it was just “alright” for me. Very, very orangey w a hint of cardamom . . . a little too “one note” for my taste though mr bc said he was ok w it and would eat it again. Pity, because I won’t be making it. This just didn’t do it for me.

              We served this over steamed basmati rice.

               
               
               
            2. Salmon and Tomatoes en Papillote, p. 302

              Not sure how to link up an earlier, excellent and detailed review of this dish by BigSal, in the previous AMFT thread. Here is a link (I hope) to that original thread: (Her review was Oct. 23.) Please let me know if there is a better way to refer back to these previous reviews:
              http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/731319

              Though BIgSal described the process, I'll repeat it for this thread: A salmon fillet is placed atop several basil leaves in a foil packet, to which are added lightly-seared-in-oil grape/ small cherry tomatoes (I added this oil to the packet.) Then sliced scallions, lemon zest, more fresh herbs (basil and thyme or rosemary); then lemon juice and oil are drizzled, thin lemon slices added on top, and the packet is sealed and baked in the oven at 475 F. She suggests 10-12 minutes; mine took about 18 minutes because my fillets were larger than the suggested 5-oz size and some of my younger dinner guests prefer "non-jiggly" salmon at the center.

              Big Sal and I both agree that this is a attractive, light entre, which produces beautifully moist and tender fish with a delicious sauce, despite having nary a pat of butter! I opened my packets before serving and slid the contents onto the plate. Making parchment packets would be a bit more complex than using foil, but would be fun for people to open up for themselves. Another boon is that you can set everything up ahead and refrigerate.

              I served this with ciabatta bread, asparagus/anchovy/rosemary "bundles" (a la Jamie Oliver) and Dorie's cauliflower-bacon gratin (p. 362.) In my opinion the salmon, delicately-flavored as it is, pairs well with a savory side or two, though you could certainly cut down on the fat and just serve a loaf of good bread or rice with it to sop up the sauce. Mr. Goblin says that for him, the salmon needed the full-flavored sides.

              Must say, Dorie's instructions and suggested bonnes idees are a joy to read and learn from.

              9 Replies
              1. re: Goblin

                Try permalinking the specific report. This way, it will pop to the specific report within the giant thread.

                Thanks for pointing out this recipe again.

                1. re: beetlebug

                  Thanks for the suggestion, bettlebug! So I just hit "permalink" to copy the individual report! I didn't know this. Life will be easier from now on!

                  1. re: Goblin

                    Yes. Hit permalink, then control c to copy the web address. Permalink assigns a number to the specific comment. Lastly, paste it into your new reply.

                      1. re: beetlebug

                        If I did this right, the link below is to BigSal's previous review of salmon and tomatoes en papillote, p. 302. If I didn't do it right; back to the drawing board!

                        http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/7313...

                        1. re: Goblin

                          Yes, the permalink is perfect!
                          Both reviews are great, this sounds like exactly the kind of dish I'd like to add to my repertoire this Spring. Will be trying this the next time I find good looking wild salmon, thanks.

                  2. re: Goblin

                    My turn for the salmon and tomatoes. As others have reported, this makes a quick and easy weeknight dinner. Like Goblin, I used a larger piece of salmon, which took about 18-20 minutes to cook instead of the suggested 10-12. I also had to leave out the thyme/rosemary because I didn't have any, but I'm not sure that this affected the outcome much. Served with bulgur wheat (simply cooked with water. salt and EVOO) and steamed green beans dressed with anchovy butter. As with the other recipes made from this book so far, we liked the outcome but didn't love it. There wasn't much basil flavor despite having lots of basil in the packet - I'm thinking that I would have gotten more bang for the buck by garnishing with finely chopped raw basil instead of steaming the basil with the salmon. I'm rather glad I elected to get this book from the library instead of purchasing it.

                    1. re: Westminstress

                      Salmon and Tomatoes en Papillote, Pg. 302

                      Instead of salmon I used a nice big fat fillet of cod about 1 1/3 lbs., as per the recommendation. I refuse to buy farmed salmon even though salmon is my absolutely most favorite fin fish.

                      One large piece of aluminum foil was placed on a baking tray then all the ingredients: many basil leaves seasoned with S & P, fish, a drizzle of EVOO, .grape tomatoes unseared for us, grated lemon zest, chopped scallions instead of a Spring onion, lemon juice, thin lemon slices, fresh herb leaves, and another drizzle of EVOO. This was topped with a matching piece of AL foil and the edges were sealed. We roasted the packet in a 475F oven for 18 minutes.

                      The finished dish was wonderful. Full of flavor, juicy, tender...just so yummy. the side dish was Green Beans in Oil from Claudia Roden's The New Book of Middle Eastern Food. I was going to serve garlic bread as well but G decided we had plenty to eat. Just saying he went back for seconds so there's not a crumb left...

                    2. re: Goblin

                      Salmon and Tomatoes en Papillote, p. 302

                      I didn't have fresh basil, so I thawed some of those frozen Dorot cubes you can buy at Trader Joe's and smeared them on top of the salmon (actually steelhead). Because I didn't have leaves underneath the fillet, I rubbed a bit of oil on the foil. I did sear the tomatoes (I used six to a fillet), and rosemary, because I had that. I forgot about the optional scallions when I was shopping, but they would have been welcome. My fish ended up a bit overcooked to my tastes, but that's not the fault of the recipe but of timing issues. I wish I'd used more lemon juice and oil on the fish, because I had no "sauce" to speak of. It was a fine meal, but it didn't knock my socks off.

                    3. Go-To-Beef Daube

                      Others have already done a great job of writing this up:

                      http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/7313...

                      I pounced on this recipe after my copy of the book came in from the library, as snow was in the air, and there's nothing like a snow storm in the spring to make a daube sound good. Anyway, made it exactly per the directions, including the optional parsnips, with one minor spice addition, a single allspice. I liked this dish a lot, Mr. QN less so (deep down he's a beef bourguinon guy). For sure with the cognac, spring parsnips, fruit forward wine and carrots, there was a sweetness to the dish, but with the salt from the bacon, and robustness of the beef (I used top blade), I thought it was well balanced.

                      3 Replies
                      1. re: qianning

                        When you made the Go-To-Beef Daube, how much liquid did you have left in the pot? I made it today; and am planning on letting it cool; then having it for dinner tomorrow. I am concerned that I don't have enough liquid left to have a good sauce. Any suggestions?

                        1. re: JulesLP

                          I served it the day that I made it, and there was plenty of sauce, maybe 3/4 of the way up my dutch oven, but nor did I reduce the sauce as it seemed right to me as was.

                          Looking at the left overs, which we haven't eaten yet, I see that the sauce to "stuff" ratio is much lower than the other night, I assume because the veggies have absorbed some of the liquid, still it looks to me as if there will be enough to reheat the meat and serve.

                          If you think there isn't enough sauce left, you could probably add either a little beef broth or some more wine (be sure to boil off the alcohol), or a little water (DG's suggestion in the book), but I would not go hog wild, as the concentrated flavor of the sauce was quite nice.

                          1. re: qianning

                            Thanks for your suggestions; I will let you know how it comes out tomorrow night.

                      2. Mediterranean swordfish with frilly herb salad p. 297

                        JoanN and I both tried this dish last year. Here are our reviews.

                        http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/7313...
                        http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/7313...

                        Marinate swordfish (1/2”thick pieces) in lemon zest, lemon juice, thinly sliced onions, capers, caper juice, olive oil, sea salt , pinch of piment d’espelette, pinch of sugar, and minced rosemary. Marinate for at least an hour and reserve the caper, onion, juice mixture. Pat the fish dry and cook until done and serve with the reserved ingredients (heated up in the microwave). We cooked this on our indoor grill. This fish cooks up quickly since it is only a ½” thick. The lemony, briny marinade adds a wonderful, fresh flavor to the fish. I’m looking forward to trying this again on the outdoor grill when the weather permits.

                        13 Replies
                        1. re: BigSal

                          Mediterranean Swordfish (Salmon) w/ Frilly Herb Salad pg 297

                          We had this for dinner a few nights ago and just swooned over it. Not much to add to the previous posts excpet to say that we grilled the fish over charcoal and it worked wonderfully, setting just a perfect crust, and keeping the fish totally moist inside. I had meant to get bluefish to make, but wasn't able to and got salmon (neither of us is a huge swordfish fan) and I was surprised at how good it was because as I said to Mr. QN "This is hardly the best piece of fish I've bought" his reply "Well it tastes like it is!" If you like grilled fish try this dish, it is wonderful.

                          1. re: qianning

                            Thanks for posting this. I'll have to try this with salmon next.

                            1. re: BigSal

                              Do! And do try the grilling option, it worked a treat.

                          2. re: BigSal

                            Mediterranean swordfish with frilly herb salad p. 297

                            This was an excellent summer meal. What's especially wonderful is that all the young herbs are coming in and that salad just complements the lemony, capery swordfish perfectly.

                            Not much to add other than I used a combo of lime basil, thai basil, oregano, chives and tarragon to mix in with the parsley. I also upped the amount of lemon juice and olive oil because it seemed a bit dry.

                            Delicious and fairly quick, other than the hour plus marinating time.

                             
                            1. re: beetlebug

                              Great picture! We've tried this several times since my go round with various fish (bluefish, chum salmon, salmon steaks) and still love it. Will have to try branching out more on the herbs...great reminder BB, thanks.

                            2. re: BigSal

                              Mediterranean swordfish with frilly herb salad p. 297

                              I should have searched before cooking, not that I would have done much differently. Swordfish must be in season since it is now the same price as cod. The piece that I bought was just under a pound and 1 inch thick. I much prefer swordfish cooked in large chunks, so I did not cut it into smaller pieces. I marinated for about 1 1/2 hrs as described by BigSal. We grilled it over charcoal for 4 minutes per side which was perfect.

                              I made the dressing as described, but dressed lettuce instead of herbs. Can't stand to waste farm lettuce and it was time to eat this. The only change I might make in the future is to substitute shallots for the onions. I think that would work really well. Served with tiny boiled potatoes with chives and a zucchini fritter leftover from last night's meal.

                              We both enjoyed this fish immensely; a nice change from my usual squirt of lemon juice.

                              1. re: smtucker

                                isn't that marinade great on grilled fish? we've used it several times this summer. i think it is my favorite recipe from this year's cotm books.

                                1. re: qianning

                                  It was. I can't imagine any fish, except for maybe mackerel or bluefish, that wouldn't enjoy sitting in this marinade for a few hours.

                                  1. re: smtucker

                                    oddly enough, i've used it on bluefish filets (scaled, skin on) on the grill several times, and we like it very well. i don't think that it would work on stove top, but on the high heat of the grill, it is an excellent treatment for oily fish like bluefish. bearing in mind that we grill with charcoal not gas, which might make a diference, not sure.

                                    1. re: qianning

                                      Then I will have to try this the next time my fisherman friend brings me one! I usually cook them on the grill, whole to get a bit of that smokey flavor which suits bluefish so very well.

                                      1. re: smtucker

                                        A friend who brings you bluefish, lucky you!

                                        I've never grilled a whole bluefish, a bit more food than Mr. QN & I can handle at once. I do grill whole mackerel and sardines & etc as often as I can get them, have you tried Marcella Hazan's "Grilled Adriatic Fish" (it's in a couple of her books), excellent way to grill whole mackerel, assume it would be good for bluefish too.

                                  2. re: qianning

                                    It is one of my favorites from 2011 COTM too. Being reminded of this recipe makes me want to make it again.

                                2. re: BigSal

                                  Mediterranean (Salmon) with Frilly Herb Salad, p. 297

                                  I had a variety of fresh herbs that needed using, and so I hit on this recipe, since I remembered the reports where people used salmon. I did it with coho steaks, which I marinated for less than an hour. I don't think the shorter time detracted, given that the marinade becomes a sauce - and not sure I'd want to go much longer due to all the lemon juice. I used parsley, tarragon, and dill for the herb salad. I'll be honest, though the herbs I had were what led me to this recipe, I was indifferent to the herb salad. The fish and marinade, however, were as wonderful as everyone here reports and are definite keepers for me. Terrific flavor.

                                3. Moules Mariniere – p. 312

                                  This happens to be one of my favourite dishes so of course I had to give DG’s version a try. Her prep and ingredients are pretty standard. Some recipes have you sauté the veg after the mussels have steamed, and others, like DG’s, have you do this in advance of adding the mussels to the pan. I happen to prefer the latter approach so this recipe is almost identical to my own except that I typically use more white wine, chopped vs sliced garlic and, more butter. Also DG suggests the optional addition of 1/4 of a chicken bouillon cube. This was a new one for me and I chose to exclude it. I'm not a big fan of bouillon cubes as I find them to be over-salted and oddly oily. Needless to say, I passed on this step.

                                  Onion, garlic and shallots are finely diced and sautéed in some butter prior to adding wine, herbs (thyme, parsley & a bay leaf in this case) and lemon zest. Simmer the lot for 3 mins before adding the mussels, covering the pot and increasing the heat so the mussels boil until done. 4 mins in my case.

                                  I tasted the sauce prior to adding the mussels and it was too acidic for our tastes so I added 3 tbsp of butter.

                                  This is a solid dish that won’t lead you astray. If you haven’t tried mussels this way, I’d encourage you to give this a try. Delicious, w the additional butter of course! We served this w a fresh from the oven Boule (I bought the bake and serve dough from a bakery). This made for a lovely lunch. I cooked and served w a yummy '09 Benziger Sauvignon Blanc from Napa.

                                   
                                   
                                   
                                   
                                   
                                  8 Replies
                                  1. re: Breadcrumbs

                                    Those mussels really look appetizing. Good call on the bouillon cube, that seems like a creepy addition. You mentioned elsewhere that you visit BC. Make sure if you are there that you have some mussels from Salt Spring Island. They produce the best mussels I've ever eaten. And we can't get them here, just across the border!

                                    1. re: L.Nightshade

                                      Thanks LN and I'll definitely remember to try those mussels, I've never seen them inToronto either. We tend to get PEI mussels here. Thanks for the tip!

                                      1. re: L.Nightshade

                                        I had some *amazing* mussels on my last trip to BC; probably the best I've ever had. Now I get why! Thanks for the explanation, LN.

                                      2. re: Breadcrumbs

                                        I love mussels but I've never made them because I'm too scared. I've been feeling more and more tempted to give it a try though, and this one looks like a good place to start!

                                        1. re: sarahcooks

                                          sarah definitely give this a try. When you bring your mussels home, if you're not using them right away just place them in a bowl in the fridge and top them w a damp tea towel. You can keep them overnight if need be. When you're ready to use, run them under cool tap water and look through them to see if any remain open. If so, tap lightly on their shells to see if they close...it may take a minute or so. If any remain open, toss them. In my experience, mussels take no longer than 5 minutes to cook. Once your mussels have cooked, discard any that remain un-opened.

                                          If you have any questions, just ask.

                                          1. re: sarahcooks

                                            I was scared my first time too, and then found out that they're actually very easy to cook. Cleaning them can be a pain, but if you buy the ones in those mesh bags they're often *fairly* clean already and just need to be rinsed and de-bearded (much easier than it would be with a human!).

                                            1. re: LulusMom

                                              Yes, I would rather de-beard a mussel than a human!
                                              Sarahcooks - be sure you get good, very fresh mussels from a reliable fish monger. My entire life I thought mussels were both tough and slimy. Until I moved to the Pacific Northwest. So look for mussels that live near-by, or were rapidly transported.
                                              Mmmm, all this mussel talk makes me want to drive up to Salt Spring Island!

                                            2. re: sarahcooks

                                              I love mussels and used to be intimidated by them too. I've actually found that it's much better not to overthink it -- most of those instructions about the prodigious soaking and scrubbing and debearding are related to wild mussels, not the much cleaner farmed ones, which are mostly all you see these days anyway.

                                              I just made mussels last week (based in part on this recipe and several similar ones) and all I did was swish them around in bowl with a few exchanges of water and called it a day. Delicious, not gritty at all, no beards -- and it couldn't be a faster or easier meal. Yum. In fact, the only time I ever messed mussels up was by carefully following instructions about salty water and ending up with disgustingly salty mussels that had to be tossed.

                                              I do find that it makes a big difference to go out of your way to go to a great fishmonger though with super fresh and reliable seafood -- and since mussels are so cheap compared to other seafood, it still won't break the bank!