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When Bradley Ogden first opened Lark Creek Inn in the nearly moribund but lovely spot in Larkspur, he featured traditional American cooking, then having an "in" moment. (Pardon that.) My favorite dish there was the large flat pasta bowl with oxtails, potatoes and turnips. I never liked it as much when the menu changed to reflect influence of later "in" cuisine influences. Would love to hear it is back.
