re: Curt the Soi Hound
Spent Songkran on Koh Phi Phi Don, however did find a few worthy spots while on Koh Lipe:
Bung Roon Halal Food - right on the beach to the right of the main street entrance has a great selection of fish for BBQ in the evenings. Had blue crabs in yellow curry, whole yellow tail tuna, and 'king' prawns, simply grilled and the usual selection of Thai accompaniments including a side dish of a very spicy finely chopped salsa, habanero like. You pick your fish, they weigh it, you can have it how you want, but their fiery beach front BBQ was always my choice. Prices 200-500 baht per kilo, prawns on the higher end. They had a king mackerel you could buy by the piece, other choices at the time looked fresher to me.
Spider Monkey - located down the main street on the right side had a good selection of Thai curries and noodle dishes, also wood fired pizza - for my son who doesn't do Thai food - yet. Bartender made great Caipirinha's.
Lekka Lipe - great gelato shop owned by very sweet young woman from Bologna. She goes back home in the low season and returns to Koh Lipe in August I believe.
Pooh's - This place was ok, run of the mill Thai dishes, we went more for the free internet. Located further down the main road.
There is a great looking Malay 'pancake' place with all kinds of fillings available, never had a chance to try but they were very popular with the locals. Not more than maybe 100 meters from the entrance to the main drag on the right.
Overall far better eats than Koh Muk, which was very scarce if you could find anything other than the place you were staying at.
Pretty much nothing there but tourist places, so I wouldn't go expecting much. As you are there for Songkran, there probably will be an influx of Thai tourists. Ingratiate yourself with some of them and you might get invited for dinner. (They tend to bring their own food for these holidays.)