2 DAYS IN COPENHAGEN EARLY AUGUST BEFORE A CRUISE
You have probably read in your guidebooks about "smørrebrød," which are simply open-faced sandwiches popular at lunch in Denmark. Because the ingredients are so simple -- dark bread, fresh toppings -- the variety is endless. And they really are a touchstone of Danish cuisine -- almost anything else that Danes tell you is "really Danish" can be found in another cuisine. But not smørrebrød.
If you want to try it, try Slotskælderen, Fortunstræde 4, 1065 København K, across the canal from the front of Christiansborg Palace. Not touristy (in fact, filled with politicians when Parliament is sitting), but the staff will guide you expertly on what to choose for a first and second course.
Ida Davidsen's is often recommended for smørrebrød, but it is, frankly, too famous to care whether you come back --- and the service and product shows.
If you want a nice lunch (non-fancy) of Mediterranean goodies, stop in at Riz Raz. It's right off the main pedestrian street towards the end near the Tivoli Gardens. It's not overpriced and is something a bit 'different.'
It's also fun to sit outside at the Nyhavn harbour area. There are tons of restaurants (also not gourmet) to enjoy just a drink and wonderful scenery.
I'm sorry, but Riz Raz has been the hopelessly second-rate favorite of backpackers since the day it opened, and that's been 20 years. Olives in the salad buffet, moussaka, indifferent hummus and day-old pita bread wedges are not Mediterranean "goodies."
Riz Raz is notable only for its longevity, but since it changes hands every 12-18 months, that is no mystery.
re: Allan Jenkins
You're entitled to your opinion. I went there on the recommendation of a well-travelled local, and I thought it was fine for a lunch. When's the last time you were there? All the people eating were locals, mostly families, and I was the only one who spoke English.
At least it wasn't a ripoff like a lot of other places I had lunch in Copenhagen.
Restaurant Koefoed is one of my favorites. Great service. Excellent, new Nordic cuisine. Emphasis on food from the island of Bornholm. Very nice room.
If you are looking to break the bank, Geranium is a fantastic place. Ate here and at noma within the past year and I think I preferred Geranium.
Kodbyen Fiskebar - Great fish. Cool, industrial atmosphere. Definitely worth a trip to the meatpacking district.
Those jump out to me today.