Itinerary (food-wise) for Barcelona/Bilbao/San Sebastian - Pls Critique

[Heeney]

We are visiting the above places in early May and wanted to get some feedback on where we chose to eat and how we scheduled it. We already have reservations here where needed.

Day 1: Land in BCN at 7am. Check into hotel. Go to Boqueria and eat at El Quim in the Boqueria. Dinner that night at Tickets.

Day 2: This is a Sunday. So we had limited choices. Lunch at El Xampanyet (since we will see Picasso Museum). Then dinner that night at Cerveceria Catalana.

Day 3: Lunch at Tapac24. Dinner at Moo.

Day 4: We are taking an early train to visit Girona. Lunch at El Celler de Can Roca @ 1pm. Then back to Barcelona where we are having drinks and snacks at 41 Degrees at 8pm. Can't imagine being hungry after that. But if we are, we havent made plans.

Day 5: Early flight to Bilbao. We will visit the Guggenheim and eat lunch at the bistro in the museum (the gastronomic restaurant menu didn't sound appealing). For dinner we thought a Pinxtos crawl and maybe cafe iruna.

Day 6: Check out of hotel and pick up rental car @ railway station. Drive to San Sebastian, but stop at Extebarri in Axpe for lunch on the way. Get to SS and drop the rental car off at the railway station there. Check into hotel and enjoy the beach. Dinner at Ni Neu.

Day 7: Lunch at Akelarre. Dinner would be a Pintxos crawl (Cuchara de San Telmo, Zeruko, etc).

Day 8: More Pinxtos for lunch. Then dinner at Arzak.

Day 9: Lunch at Mugaritz (should we just take a taxi there and then have the restaurant call us a cab back?). For dinner, one last Pinxtos crawl.

Day 10: Head to the airport in the AM to go home.

Your thoughts?

[Heeney]

I have started my trip review if you want to see. It will be long and stretched out over several days:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/786873

[citykid426]

Akelarre is much better than Arzak in my opinion. I've eaten at both and Akelarre is far superior in terms of execution and creativity.

[Heeney]

I have been wondering if I should swap lunch at Tapac24 with lunch at Alkimia. I have heard great things about Alkimia. And a good selling point is that it is close to the Sagrada Familia (where we will be around that day.
But is Alkimia/Moo too much on the same day? Is Tapac24 worth the detour?
Just curious.

[lilpenny]

Greetings, everyone. Is there a difference in the lunch and dinner menus at Akelarre or Arzak? Also, has anyone eaten at Martin Berasategui's restaurant--any thoughts on whether I should try to go there? Would love to hear how your trip goes Heeney, sorry I don't have anything to add (going to Bilbao and San Sebastian for the first time at the end of May).
Thank you.

[Heeney]

lilpenny, from what I've read the menus are always the same for lunch/dinner. Lunch is normally the main meal anyway.
Best wishes on your trip. I'll try and get a trip report up here when we get back that you can hopefully look over before you leave.

[RxDiesel]

What a great trip. Its been a few years [2002] since we visited San Sebastian, Santander, and Bilbao, but Akelarre and Arzak are great choices, and the Guggenheim is interesting [the building - the collections weren't a knockout, at least in 2002]. We had a weird experience trying to get into Martin Berasategui. One, it was darned hard to find - and, while we were told it was open and that we had reservations for the night (a Tuesday? I think ....), when we finally found it, it wasn't open that night! bummer. Since you are driving around, suggest you consider staying at one of the paradors. The one in Hondaribba [sp.], a converted castle on the harbor, was marvelous. Have a great trip!

[Heeney]

Can I get some advice on the dress code at the 2 and 3 star places? I realize Spain is more relaxed about things like suit or jacket. And I have every intention of dressing "classy" to them all. But if I don't pack a suit will I be out of place in any of them?

[PBSF]

No, you do not need a suit for any of the star places. .

[Heeney]

This just occurred to me:
Are "nice" jeans, going to be ok at Roca and Akelare?
We'll be sightseeing in Girona before lunch at Roca and walking around SS before Akelare. It would be nice to wear jeans and not worry about being out of place at those places.
Of course, if that's a problem. We'll adjust.

[Aleta]

We had lunch at El Celler de Can Roca last summer. Our previous experiences with 3 star Michelins had been in Paris, where people dress quite elegantly. I was so surprised by the ripped jeans, T-shirts, flip-flops and other forms of beach-apparel that I actually snuck a few pictures of our fellow diners.

Barcelona's modern restaurants seem quite tolerant of their diners' fashion choices. I've heard that people dress nicer in San Sebastian and Madrid.

[PBSF]

Nice pair of jeans is perfectly fine for both Can Roca and Akelarre.

[Bendix]

I normally avoid posting on sited (I'm shy :-) ) but I'm making an exception here.
Just got back from Bilbao and loved the whole foodie scene. When you say the gastronomic restaurant menu isn't appealing, which one are you referring to? I had a great lunch at the Cafe Metropol at the Silken Gran Hotel Domine.
It was easier on the stomach than the full on lunches we'd had the rest of the week at some other restaurants. Give it a shot, it's right opposite the Guggenheim so should fit in perfectly with your schedule.

[Heeney]

I was talking about the restaurant in the Guggenheim. I saw on their website that it had two menus. One for the "gastronomic restaurant" and one for a "bistro" (which is only open at lunch).
For some reason the bistro menu sounded better than the "gastronomic" menu.
Are they the same dining room btw?
I also kind of chose it for reasons similar to what some other posters mentioned above: a "break" from high-end dining.
I think Barcelona is OK since the only ones we are doing are Celler Can Roca and maybe Moo. Though my previous experience at Moo was a laid back one...while still fun.
So I thought casual dining in Bilbao would be good before the all out gorge-fest in San Seb.
As to that: I know the risks of doing all those places. But I honestly couldn't imagine which to cut. There is no way we'd miss extebarri. Mugaritz and Arzak were big reason why we decided to visit in the first place. And originally we were going to do Martin Berasategui. But we switched it for Akelare because from everything we saw and read we just fell head over heels in love with it. So it would be hard to drop.
We do intend to do one casual sit down meal while we are there. Originally it was going to be Ni Neu. But now maybe I think we should do Bodegon Alejandro.

[rrems]

The bistro in the Guggenheim is very good and a great bargain. It is not the same room as the restaurant. The restaurant is in anther part of the building and has a separate entrance, while the bistro is inside the museum. The atmosphere is very pleasant and service nice and attentive. You even get a bottle of wine and water included, and the house wine (they have options for upgrades, but it is really not necessary) was quite good. We had lunch there before our dinner at Akelare and I think if we had a larger lunch it would have been far too much.

[citykid426]

I would take out El Quim at the Boqueria market and go to Pinotxo instead. They are to your right, maybe four rows down, from when you enter. MUCH better experience. Also, you'll notice that it is crowded but there's a reason for that- the food is amazing and the little old man in the bow tie is so nice! He speaks a little English and if you tell him what flavors you like, he will tell you what they're offering that day that you might enjoy. Everything on their menu is amazing. My husband and I once ordered about 10 plates of food (we were really hungry) and had a bottle of white wine for lunch. My favorites were the gambas and the beef stew. Perfect! El Quim was a little not as good in my opinion and the food did not seem as inspiring...But hey, you can always go to both and let the food speak for itself.

[Heeney]

We ate at Pinotxo last time we were in Barcelona. We loved it. We thought about going to Quim to compare. But if consesus says it's not as good then we'd love to go back to Pinotxo.
Chances are we'll go to both since I'm sure we'll eat breakfast at Boqueria almost everyday. :)

[Parigi]

I went to both but preferred El Quim !

[PBSF]

What a great food trip!
Just a couple of comments: since the Roca brothers run both Moo and El Celler de Can Roca, they have similar food. You are having dinner at Moo then next day lunch at Can Roca. It will feel one long 7 hour tasting menu with some repetitions. I would replace Moo with a more traditional place. Since you've budgeted for it, try La Dama or go to a more tradtional and modest place such as Fonda Gaig; there have been couple of good recent posts on traditional/modest places; or go down to Barceloneta for arroz. If you are intent on another modern place, do Carme Ruscadella's Moments or the less expensive and informal Sauc or Colibri. Sauc is not as polish as either Moo or Moments but the cooking is modern but with a more rustic bent and a great depth of flavor; Colibri is similar. They both have more of a Barcelona feel than an 'international' ambience. Also you need to spend an evening hopping in El Born or part of the Barri Gotic. It is lively, an outdoor party. Don't get stuck in the Eixample every evening; except for the Pg de Gracia and parts of the Rambla de Catalunya, it can be souless.
As for transport to Mugaritz, unless you have a car, taxi is the only option. Have the hotel arrange a taxi for you in the morning. Allow a little extra time as some will not want to travel that far. A few minutes before you've finish with your meal, ask the restaurant to call a taxi.
I love high-end restaurants but too many in succession can wound up to be too much of the same. In reality, different 3 star offer something unique but the stomach or the brain can't process everything in such a short time. Of course, if it was me twenty years ago when I was younger and if my budget allowed, I would probably do the same itinerary as you. Squeeze al the top places into a short visit thinking that I would not have another opportunity to return. Give it a thought then, go for it.

[Parigi]

Agree to all.
Good pacing too. Heeney, I noticed that you often combine a major meal with a tapas or pintxos meal.

Barcelona
I am not a big fan of El Xampanyet but do like its atmosphere … at night. Sometimes an eatery suits a specific time of day and feels wrong at another time of day. This sounds subjective, I know.
For example, I like Cerveceria Catalana a great deal but would not go there at night because the 'hood is boring then (and very vibrant during the day).
I agree with PBSF you should spend more time in El Born. For the old town, my fave tapas bars are:
- Bilbao Berria, more a lunch or early afternoon place.
- El Vaso De Oro, for early evening, when the beach vibes start warming up, and those sunset colors
- Euskal Etxea, which I much prefer over El Xampanyet (and EE is in front of EX), any time, day or night.

As for Bilbao and San Sé, itinerary looks perfect.
Remember to write back !

[PBSF]

Just to add one more comment: I think flying to Bilboa is a waste of time, money and aggravation. The train or bus is much more convenient. Both bus and training stations are short walks from central San Sebastian and the Guggenheim/central Bilboa.

[Heeney]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will check them out.
What places in Born/Gotic are open Sunday night? I settled on Cerveceria Catalana because it seemed a good laid back place for dinner Saturday. Same with Xampanyet (open sunday).
Also, I had the same idea with Moo/Celler. But we decided to keep it because Moo had sentimental value for my wife and I (long story). And we also are staying at the Hotel Omm.
I also worry about these great places running together. But this trip is kind of a "foodie blowout" for us. Since way back in our first time in Spain we didn't have the means or the appreciation to savor such great places. Hopefully it won't overwhelm us.
I already booked the flight to Bilbao btw. I wanted to do trains. So much nicer. But we went with the flight because it's faster and cheaper. And also we are only in Bilbao for 1 day.
I will make sure to post notes when we get back!

[Heeney]

Correction: I meant Sunday for Cerveceria. Not Saturday.

[Parigi]

"What places in Born/Gotic are open Sunday night?"

Not many, but El Vaso de Oro is. It is in Barceloneta, not really in the Born, but it is just a pleasant short walk away.

[Heeney]

Hmm. That's what I thought. I'll check out Vaso de Oro. And obviously we'll be walking around Gotic/Born/Barcelonetta sightseeing a lot. So I'm sure we'll snack here and there. We'll probably go around there at night to "continue snacking" after drinks and snacks at 41 degrees.

[PBSF]

Sunday night can be difficult, especially for sit down restaurants. And it seems pointless to recommend any more tapas/pintxos place since you'll be eating so much of that in San Sebastian/Bilboa. The usual suspects are opened Sunday nights: Sagardi, Euskal Etxea, La Tinaja (somewhat like Quimet i Quimet, no hot food), Bar del Pla, La Vinya del Senyor, an excellent wine bar and the best place to sit outside in front of the Santa Maria del Mar with a glass of wine and simple tapas on a warm evening . Parigi's Vaso de Oro is very good with excellent ingredients and it is just a couple of blocks away, across the Pg de Isabel II. One good thing about tapas/pintxos, if one doesn't like the place, just move on since not much has been invested in the place. Sunday night is not the most lively night in El Born but there will still be plenty of activity, more than just about anywhere in Barcelona. Senyor Parellada is always open; the food is decent if somewhat generic but it is inexpensive, nice lively ambience (ground floor only and not the Siberian alcove). If nothing else, the large menu of traditional Catalan food is fun to browse and educational. If one order correctly, the food/ambience is definitely worth the cost. One might have a few snacks nearby then just order a main plate and dessert. I would go with the salad of bacala, escalivada, duck with figs or pear, the botifarra, or other meat/poultry (generally better bet than the fish). Definitely skip the escudella (similar to a pot de feu), the canelons, the anything with rice and the fideua. Need to reserve, a day in advance is usually sufficient, otherwise full or put in the Siberian alcove.
Since drinking cider and cava is the thing to do at El Xampanyet (the food is not bad but secondary), like Parigi, I think the evening is more fun than during the day (packed regardless).
Actually, because it is located just off Pg de Gracia, the area around Cerveceria Catalana is quite lively at night. And when it can be packed out with people spilling out the sidewalk. The food is really hit or miss; the simpler the better; skip anything fried because it will be soggy and most lightly lukewarm. If you want to stay in the Eixample Sunday night, the often mentioned Paco Meralgo has better food, lively without being deafening. And if you like action, grab the seats at the counter where one can see the some of the seafood, etc. The best pa amb tomaquet, good razor clams, bomba, eggs with mushrooms, scallops or wild mushrooms a la plancha, can't go wrong with most seafood though some such as wild shrimp can really kick up the tab; nice simple desserts in small portions. I am addicted to their tap (similar to baba), torija (bread soaked in custard and fried) and decent crema catalana.
One comment about the Barri Gotic at night. Stroll in streets and placa where there are people; some of the smaller side streets can be dark and deserted. I've seen more petty crime there than just about any big city in Europe. Barcelona is generally safe but just be aware.

[ericat]

Sounds like a dream line up of places, but my first instinct is that it may be a little too much. I got a little food fatigued by the end of my trip, particularly with the more avant garde stuff, I just can't do it on consecutive days. I know you don't want to miss out on anything, but I would recommend maybe a few more traditional places...I really liked Bodegon Alejandro in San Sebastian for a friendly, laid back meal. You have quite a few pintxos crawls on consecutive days; I would maybe sub one of them for a casual sit down meal, as too many consecutive days of pintxos also got tiring for me, it all starts looking and tasting the same after awhile (caveat is that many places were closed when I was there, so it may just have been my experience). Or maybe some different ethnic cuisines. I know it may sounds like we wasted a meal, but I was really craving something different, some Asian food by the end of the trip, so we had lunch at a random Japanese noodle shop in Barcelona, which really hit the spot. Having every single meal planned out might be a little tiring; make sure you allow enough time during vacation to just improvise, relax, and enjoy.

[Parigi]

I second Bodegon Alejandro, my "therapy" meal in San Sé. It is after all so refreshing, downright novel, to sit down to a no-gimmick, well executed traditional meal.

And I also agree that after about a week in southwestern Europe in general (by which I especially have Spain and southwestern France in mind), I too start craving for a … pho.

[Parigi]

Reporting back from an afternoon of pintxos-crawl in San Sé (Was staying at Ciboure for a long wkend and took an easy bus-train to San Sé for a day-trip):
Good news for everyone: The anti-smoking law is working ! So nice to ace into a pintxos bar and not feel as though cigarette smoke had aced out all oxgen from every cubic centimeter of space.
And I'll just skip to my faves;
Astelena just gets better all the time.
San Telmo is very good but has more anarchy and Gordon-Fucking-Ramsey type screaming than necessary. I know I know, one has to dig anarchy as part of the Parte Vieja pintxos scene but still... Is that the most screaming expended per calory cooked or what.