Formaggio Kitchen 'Beignets'- Like Sweet Bagel Bricks
- opinionatedchef Mar 16, 2011 10:47 PM
I got so excited about trying Formaggio's special weekend- only beignets, after they were featured in the recent Globe piece on donuts. Man am I glad we only got one of each to try. Their flavors vary each wkend. This time they were: granola, banana w/ lemon cream, and cinnamon.
They call these Beignets????? Well, stupid me; I ASSumed these would be fried choux pastry- as in New Orl. beignets (light, airy and possibly ethereal) but no, these are German/Polish style yeast dough beignets. I would describe them as BIG slightly sweet bagels w/ no hole; very dense and VERY heavy, and, with all the icing and filling- enough to knock you out for the day. I cannot imagine having one of these for breakfast. Maybe if you'd done hard labor all morning and were going to be doing it the rest of the day...... but i don't think you could move very far after one of these settled into your stomach. At any rate, I'm sure these have a significant fan base, but I really just wanted to warn anyone who had in mind the light beignets , as I did- and had put them on a list of things to try.
BTW, i think the bakers at Formaggio are talented people; i have had excellent things there over the years- orange chocolate tea cake, pots de creme, hazelnut orange brownies,*granola*. But I will not be returning for these beignets. Yiiiiikes.
This talks about the 2 different types of beignet (dough):
244 Huron Ave, Cambridge, MA 02138
it's weird but I've never had a beignet I've loved except in New Orleans. There was a sweet little place in Adams Morgan in DC that tried their hand at it and it never quite worked. Wonder if it is one of those place-specific things where it has to come with chicory coffee and the Mississippi view or even if it is the particular humidity, water, etc. that can't transfer (my grandmother swore that bagels were better in NY because the water was different!).
I remember the article (see http://www.boston.com/ae/food/restaur... ) and it was clear from it that none of the "beignets" mentioned there were light, feathery bits of fried dough. I can't see how somebody who read it could have gone to any of the places discussed there expecting that style. I don't know where you get a good rendition of light beignets in Boston but if anybody here is ever in NYC, the bar room at The Modern has a good version.
Just had one of the lemon curd doughnuts from Formaggio. It was actually a lot lighter than I expected based on these reviews and excellent for a baked doughnut. Great balance of sweetness from the icing and toasted coconut and tangyness from the lemon curd. Would definitely go back for more!