Umami -- I'm a believer!
The word "umami" seems to be creeping into everyday cooking vocabulary these days. And I watch enough of the TV cooking shows to know that there's something to it. But I'll admit, up until now, umami is just something I just didn't pay attention to. Maybe I've been aware of it on some subliminal level -- you know, you taste a dish and it's immediately satisfying, but you don't bother to analyze it to figure out what it's got that's so darned appealing... so comforting... so right.
But yesterday I decided the time had come for me to be proactive. So I Googled umami to learn a little more, and to get a sense of the foods that are major contributors of umami. Then it was time to try it -- on a small scale, of course, because I didn't want to mess up what I'd already considered one of my consistently delicious recipes -- my plain-and-simple pasta sauce. I started my sauce the way I usually do -- onions sauteed in olive oil, then add minced garlic (lots of it) and saute until it's fragrant. Then a good shake of crushed red peppers. And then I added the umami -- in the form of anchovies. I minced up about 8 little filets from a tin, and sauteed them as I mashed them until they kind of disappeared. That didn't take long. Then I added a little tomato paste and let it cook a minute or two, and then I added two cans of crushed tomatoes, a little salt, and a generous sprinkling of dried oregano. That was it. I let the sauce simmer for an hour or so.
My pasta sauce is ALWAYS delicious. This sauce was delicious. Yet, I'm willing to say that there was, this time, a certain "je ne sais quois" -- something that added to the complexity without being so prominent it could be identified. Maybe I was just really hungry. But I'm willing to give umami -- the anchovies, in this case -- the benefit of the doubt. More than that, I want to do a lot more experimenting with my cooking, but I need guidance -- lots of guidance.
So my question is: short of using MSG in my cooking, in what ways can I add the essence of umami into "everyday" dishes? Into soups, for example, or roasts, or simple stir fries? Is umami something you consciously incorporate into your cooking, or does it happen more by serendipitous circumstance? Do you recognize it when it's there? Do you miss it when it's absent?
I feel like a whole new door has been cracked open for me, and I'm eager to explore what's behind it.
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there is this mushroom powder you can buy from asian stores.. it's sometimes used instead of chemical MSG these day to lend umami flavour to food.
also, you can try what vietnamese do: use fish sauce (no need for salt if you do this).. or other southeast asian countries will use some sort of fermented seafood product, like shrimp paste, for example.
since i am vegetarian, i started to experiment with using fermented bean paste to try and get that umami that fish sauce gives to food.
also: cheese, mushrooms, tomatoes, anything fermented. if you go to any asian supermarket, the shelves are lined with a ton of fermented products...
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re: chefathome
the ingredients on the pack my mom gave me the other day says:
mushroom powder, salt, mushroom extract, vitamin B, calciumwhat do you use to pulverize dried mushrooms with? a coffee grinder, or..? and what kind of mushrooms?
more umami ingredients: i almost always use onions (usually sauteed first) in my cooking, and often use garlic too. it's just what i grew up with, so i use it a lot. i read that garlic and onions lend umami taste too.
also, when i add wine to tomato sauce, risotto, etc., i notice that it lends a richness to the food. i am assuming that must be umami, so wine seems to do it too...
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re: helenhelen
made a salad today of quinoa, mixed veggies, green onions, basil and cilantro. Dressed it with lemon and olive oil and a bit of salt. Tasted it and felt like it needed something. Remembering this thread I thought I would try some anchovy paste. What a difference! I am a believer too. Perhaps that tube of anchovy paste will actually get used up now, other than just in ceaser salad dressing. Thanks for enlightening me!
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re: helenhelen
Interesting. I use my spice (coffee) grinder to pulverize a few kinds of dried mushrooms but especially porcini as they work so well like that. The I use that as part of a rub blend.
Wine is a good one; in fact, I use a lot of alcohols in cooking such as Port for reconstituting dried mushrooms or dried chiles. Sherry is lovely with mushrooms and as you do, both white and red wines in risottos and so on.
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re: chefathome
i made chestnut and sage soup today from a recipe.. but i made some modifications, partly because i didn't have all of the ingredients on hand. the soup was very tasty and i realized i upped the umami in it by quite a bit:
sauteed more onion (doubled what the recipe called for)
used the aforementioned packaged mushroom powder + water in place of stock
de-glazed the pan with white wine (this was a key step which really added to the flavour!)it definitely has that extra umami "oomph".
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re: goodhealthgourmet
As per a recipe in a major magazine a couple of summers ago, I made a blend of dried porcini mushrooms, kombu seaweed and katsuobushi (dried bonito tuna flakes). I pulverized them to a powder in my spice grinder and sprinkled atop 8-ounce burgers made in the oven (30% fat in the beef). Each burger was topped with crumbles of English Stilton then sprinkled with the umami powder and drizzled with a ruby port reduction. It was insanely decadent, so much so that I haven't made it since. My body is thanking me, but my taste buds are not!
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As I've posted before when it comes to cooking virtually any savory dish I always add a little squeeze of anchovy paste or a TBL of bottled clam juice. Done it for a couple of years. Roasts/chilies/scrambled eggs(not too much)/steaks, you name it. THAT is the secret to cooking savory dishes that 'pop' flavor wise. Good on you for trying it. Get a tube of anchovy paste. You can control the amount of anchovy more accurately.
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Does anyone use actual MSG? I know the OP asked for no MSG but this is an umami thread after all. I have a bag that has just been sitting around, not quite sure how to use it.
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re: ipsedixit
My grandma (Irish/German) always had a bagfull of MSG in her cupboard and I never noticed if she used it, but enjoyed all of her cooking. As a scientist, I question whether anyone is able to detect the use of "MSG" in anything, as it is the equivalent of the glutamate found in high concentrations in Parmigiano-Reggiano, dried tomatoes, and seaweed extract. In fact, historically MSG was extracted directly from seaweed. Overuse, I can understand complaining about.
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re: ...tm...
< it is the equivalent of the glutamate found in high concentrations in Parmigiano-Reggiano, dried tomatoes, and seaweed extract. In fact, historically MSG was extracted directly from seaweed. Overuse, I can understand complaining about.>
I am unsure of your definition of detecting. Human tongue can taste and therefore detecing MSG. It gives a different signal than pure salt like NaCl. Maybe you are questioning that some people complain about uncomfortable feeling of consuming MSG -- a negative reation like sweating and flushing...etc. Well, the argument for reacting to MSG is that Monosodium glutamate allows quick release of glutamate. While sodium is just plain sodium, and glutamate is just an animo acid, the absorption of glutamate from regular meat proteins are slow, and likely to be slow from seaweed too. This is the explanation I have read about. I don't know if it is true. You can also think of it like glycemic index. Two food items may have exactly the same amount of glucose, but the absorption of the glucose in the circulating system can be different, think white rice vs brown rice.
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re: fldhkybnva
I use to have a small bottle when I was a college student, but never use it much. I felt it is like cheating. Almost like people adding excessive salt because the original dish is simply not tasty enough.
Regardless, you can use MSG in many things. This is especially common for the soup/stock/borth for Asian noodle.
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re: Chemicalkinetics
I felt it is like cheating. Almost like people adding excessive salt because the original dish is simply not tasty enough.
________________________I'm curious about that statement. Why did you feel like it was cheating? And do you still feel this way?
I'm not trying to pick a fight as to the merits of MSG -- be it from a health or psychological perspective -- I'm just trying to understand why MSG would be so tainted in your view?
Did you have the same reservations with using things like Parmigiano-Reggiano, Miso, Mushrooms, conpoy, etc.?
Again, not trying to pick a fight. Just curious where the bias against MSG comes from, and if it's unique to MSG.
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re: fldhkybnva
I kind of understand what chemicalkinetics means by cheating. This whole thread has been very interesting and eye opening. Especially the MSG part. I have grown up with MSG being bad for you, I have never noticed it in a grocery store, never see it in a recipe and don't hear chefs talking about it. Is it a secret topic, taboo almost? IF you use it don't speak of it?? To me it seems unnatural, fake, processed. But I will fully admit I don't know a lot about it.
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re: cleopatra999
MSG is neither fake nor unnatural.
MSG, is the sodium salt of glutamic acid, one of the most abundant naturally occurring non-essential amino acids. Most of the glutamate we consume, whether naturally occurring in food or as seasoning, does not enter the bloodstream - it is used by the cells lining the digestive tract for energy. Our bodies also make glutamate as part of normal metabolism, and our major organs store glutamate. There is about 10-12g of free glutamate in our bodies, of which 5-6g is stored in our muscles.
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re: ipsedixit
<MSG, is the sodium salt of glutamic acid, one of the most abundant naturally occurring non-essential amino acids.>
Are you cutting and pasting wikipedia and whatcookingamerica.net? These are words for words from these websites. I think you should cite where you get your information -- just to keep everything proper.
Sodium is not fake. Glutamic acid is not fake. However, MSG is unnatural. I don't know any natural form of MSG, granted that I am not in the research of food science. If you do, let us know. There is no natural MSG I know of.
<MSG is neither fake nor unnatural.>
Since you read wikipedia, I will quote from the MSG section from wikipedia:
"Professor Ikeda named this product monosodium glutamate and submitted a patent to produce MSG"
"Suzuki brothers started the commercial production of MSG in 1909 as Aji-no-moto, meaning "essence of taste" in Japanese, the first time that monosodium glutamate was produced in the world"Read between the lines, and you can tell it is a man-made product -- thus unnatural, thus some call it fake.
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re: ipsedixit
<MSG is simply a form of a natural compound.>
A "unnatural form" of a natural compound -- is simply unnatural.
Would sticking radiative uranium with glutamate makes it natural? No. What about exchanging all the hydrogen atoms of a glutamic acid with deuterium atoms?
Please tell me that you don't really think a fully deuterated glutamic acid is a natural substance -- despite that it is a form of a natural compound.
<That's why it's neither fake nor unnatural.>
No, the above reasons accurately describe why it is unnatural.
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re: fldhkybnva
<why it was considered "cheating">
Too easy. Too synthetic. Like someone buy a box of premade cookie dough, and baked it:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_sFeQWjK-NOM...
It is like "I cannot really make this dish to taste good with the traditional normal ingredients. I just cannot do it -- either I am just too lazy or too dumb (lack of effort or lack of knowledge). Oh I know. I will just add the flavor enhancer MSG and call it the day"
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re: ipsedixit
<Ok, if you say so.>
It is one of those cases which you either know what is cheating or not. Like I said, I consider adding pure ethanol to a bottle of wine as cheating to wine making, just like adding MSG to dishes as cheating to home cooking. Exactly same analogy -- one try to add pure ethanol, and the other try to add a synthetic form of an amino acid. Frankly, to me, pouring research grade ethanol into grape juice ..... is just not real wine making.
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re: Chemicalkinetics
OK. I am under the impression that MSG is a man-made form of something that occurs naturally in a lot of foods. Is this false? What I'm trying to get at is is it the same thing or not, just one is manufactured and one 'occurs'?
A few years ago I did a lot of reading on MSG (mostly on its rep as a 'bad' thing, allergen etc.) and found that there was little, if any, research to actually back any of it up. Based on this I bought some MSG at the frocery store and did a bunch of tests adding it to various foods. Still have it in my cupboard. I understand why to some it may be 'cheating' - some puritan part of my soul sees flavour-tossed-in-in-powder-form as somehow inferior to flavour-developed-over-lots-of-careful-cooking-time, but imo this is an illogical thought and I recognize it as such and ignore it.
Btw, MSG is a really fun ingredient to taste-test people with. Give them some canned soup, some with MSG and some without, or use tomato juice etc (almost anything will work) - very, vey rarely has anyone not been able to tell the difference. When you ask what the difference is they just say the one with MSG 'tastes better'.
In short, I heart MSG.
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re: montrealeater
<I am under the impression that MSG is a man-made form of something that occurs naturally in a lot of foods.>
MSG is the salt form of glutamic acid, an amino acid. They are not exactly the same thing. Not quiet. MSG looks like this:
Glutamic acid looks like this:
http://www.pherobase.com/pherobase/gi...
They are similar enough, but not the same thing -- if they are really the same thing, then they would have the same chemical name, but obviously they do not have the same names -- exactly because they are not the same chemicals. On top of that, natural glutamic acids in proteins are almost exclusively in the L-form. In other words, not all glutamic acids are natural.
<some puritan part of my soul sees flavour-tossed-in-in-powder-form as somehow inferior to flavour-developed-over-lots-of-careful-cooking-time>
It isn't the inferior part which means it cheating. The natural vs synthetic is a separate and different topic than the "cheating" part. The two do not have to be related to one and other. Separate topics.
It isn't about the end. It is the path. As I have mentioned, I can pour pure research grade ethanol into a bottle of grape juice and have the same level of alcohol as wine. The research grade ethanol isn't any inferior by any mean, but the act of doing so, to me, is not true wine making.
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re: Chemicalkinetics
<It isn't about the end. It is the path. As I have mentioned, I can pour pure research grade ethanol into a bottle of grape juice and have the same level of alcohol as wine. The research grade ethanol isn't any inferior by any mean, but the act of doing so, to me, is not true wine making.>
You know far more about this scientifically than I but I agree with this and would also place it in the cheating category.
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re: helenhelen
<isn't MSG very high in sodium?>
True. MSG is one part sodium and one part glutamate. Table salt (NaCl) is one part sodium and one part chloride. On the other hand, it is believe that MSG is more tasteful than table salt. So we may able to use a smaller amount of MSG to substitute a larger amount of table salt. Thus, it may able to lower the sodium intake. Tough to say really.
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re: Chemicalkinetics
Thanks for the info, I really did think the naturally occuring substance and the man-made one were, literally, exactly the same.
As for it being about the path and not the end result, I think that's a personal call. For me, if it tastes fkng great, and there isn't any actual rat poison in it, I don't mind how it got to taste that way. Wouldnt ethanol + grape juice taste horrible? If it tasted the same as wine, I'd probably happily drink it!
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I recently bought some "Taste #5 Umami Paste" by Laura Santtini; haven't yet tried it unfortunately. I bought it online but have since seen it in a couple of Seattle-area stores. Might try it first diluted with olive oil and brushed on pizza.
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re: chefathome
OK, chefathome, you got me motivated -- Taste #5 is absolutely wonderful!
I made "very fake tacos" (one of us doesn't like very much heat, so I use Frontera mild enchilada sauce instead). I waited until the dish was cooked, tasted it, then added about 1/3 tsp to about 1.5 cups of finished "taco" filling. Mixed it in the pan, waited a minute just to give it some time, then tasted it again. Wohoooo, was that good!
The difference I detected was that the sauce seemed richer, the tomato (mild though it was to start with!) toned down and more taste came to the front of the palate. The result was slightly more salty than I would normally like, although The Salt Fiend Who ALWAYS Adds Salt at the Table (we customarily use either Hickory smoked or Truffle salt at the table, both from Woodinville Salt Co.) thought it was great and he didn't add any more salt.
I could definitely taste the similarity to Worster sauce flavor, but I liked this much more, because doesn't seem to have the intrusive heat and kick punch that Worster has (and I like Worster, don't get me wrong).
I'm absolutely hooked, Taste #5 is going to be a staple in my cooking.
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re: axial
I would never have thought to use it with tacos - great idea! It makes sense to use it wherever umami-ness is needed. You're into salt, too? We have tons of kinds and some favourites of ours also include alder smoked and truffle.
Don't you think if more people were to try it they'd also be hooked? Amazing stuff. And it really is not that expensive. One of our Canadian store brands just came out with it, too - I am very curious. :)
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re: chefathome
Are you talking about the Black Label stuff? I bought some over the summer, then my fridge died and I threw it out without using it (it has fish in it, no? I reckoned better safe than sorry) - I want to know if I should get it again! (got it at Provigo on Mont Royal, btw, I think you're in Montreal, too).
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re: montrealeater
Yes, the black label stuff. I think it does have anchovy in it if I recall correctly. Not in Montreal but many hours northwest of you, three hours from Edmonton (where we've had a lot of snow on the ground for six weeks already and temps of -20C - I digress).
I think you should try it again - it really is worth it in my opinion.
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re: cleopatra999
Hard time explaining .. yuppers. I couldn't find the right description, I guess, all I got back was a quizzical look, he couldn't quite tell there was any difference although I could taste it right away..
I used Taste #5 on a different tuna brand (Trader Joe's Yellowfin tuna in oil) , mixed with Hellman's mayo, and it was even better with a little more paste than I'd used last time, maybe close to 1/3 to 1/2 tsp for a single can.
I think next time I get some cibatta bread I'm going to have a "Paste Taste" event, mix it with some olive oil and see if he can get the hang of it.
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I think we all have those little tricks that we use to punch up our cooking. One of my favorites is the liberal use of shallots. I sub them for onions in all kinds of things.
One of my favorite ways to add umami to dishes is to roast any veggies involved before using them. Last week I made vegan soup for an aquaintance, and by preroasting the turnips, carrots, potatoes and asparagus before adding them i turned a pedestrian boiled veggie soup into a rich flavor powerhouse.
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I can't seem to "master the umami" with my recently acquired Maggi seasoning. I heard such great reviews about it and have been trying to sprinkle a few drops on a variety of dishes - added to Asian marinated tuna dipping sauce, sprinkled on scrambled eggs but I don't really seem to "feel it." Perhaps my tasting ability is not quite distinguishing enough or I need to use more?
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re: fldhkybnva
I don't think one really "feels" umami. It's just sort of there, but if it's not you certainly do notice its absence.
In this way it's a bit like salt in chocolate chip cookies. You don't taste the salt in the cookie, but if you omit it, you certainly notice something being off -- like the entire cookie is flat. That's what umami is like for savory dishes.
I really believe it's a bit of a misnomer to say that umami is a fifth "taste" because one doesn't really taste umami.
Umami is like the culinary equivalent of the G-Spot. It's not necessarily in one any particular "spot," but we all sort of know that it's kind of around "there" ... wherever there might be. And if your G-Spot was missing, you'd certainly notice it.
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Depending on what you're cooking, the most direct (aside from msg, which you might reconsider using BTW) way to add umami is use of kombu, or kelp, like the Japanese do in making dashi broths. AFAIK, it has the highest concentration of natural glutamates found in a whole food, with a subtle flavor otherwise.
Beyond that, lots of ingredients add umami flavor. Thew and Chem and Link listed several good ones. I'll add that parmigiana cheese has quite a bit (good for your pasta). Tomatoes and tomato sauces have some, with the pulp around the seeds having the highest concentration in a tomato (which is partially why I never throw away the liquid from a seeded tomato, but strain it and add it back to a sauce last minute). Worchestershire sauce has lots of it as well. Meats and cheeses in general make good sources, and aged dried meats and aged hard cheeses even more so.
Basically, there are way too many foods that have glutamates to name. The suggestions here are just especially rich sources.
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re: cowboyardee
I have never used kombu, or kelp, and I've never made dashi broth. Can you give me an idea of how I might use kombu? I've got some good Asian markets nearby that would probably carry it, but I know nothing about how it's even sold. Is it used only in Asian cooking, or are there uses for it in other cuisines as well?
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re: CindyJ
Use of kombu is easy. You want the packages with kombu pieces that are covered in white, not the ones that are uniformly dark green.
If you are making dashi broth, you will need a length of dried kombu, which will be steeped in water that is kept just below boiling (about 30 minutes to an hour depending on volume and how much kombu you add). The kombu as it rehydrates will start exuding a slime, which you want. The more goo the better.
Then add katsuobushi (dried bonito shavings); the quantity depends on what you can afford. Immediately turn off the heat. Once the bonito settles to the bottom, filter the contents through several layers of cheesecloth and you're done. Ichiban dashi.
Another way to use kombu is to throw a small piece into the chicken broth you use for risotto or soups (you can do the same for beef stock). Or grind it in a burr grinder and sprinkle the powder as you need it.
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re: CindyJ
It is sold in dry form, in "sheets."
Dashi broth is very easy to make, but for some it is an acquired taste.
You can also make kombu broth which is incredibly simple. There are plenty of recipes out there for both. As with Japanese cooking, you can use those broths to add flavor to just about anything.In theory, you could use the dried kombu much like you would a bay leaf, although I have never tried it
The only thing you need to worry about is that kombu can turn very bitter if it is exposed to boiling water or very high heat for an extended period of time.
We eat a lot of Japanese dishes in our house, so I cant really speak to cross cultural cooking, but I think it would be a nice addition to any sauce, soup or stew. Especially those dishes contain fish and shell fish. Hmm oysters poached in light kombu broth and dipped in ponzu sounds god to me!
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re: CindyJ
You can just buy packages of granularized instant dashi usually sold under the brand name "Hon Dashi". Just add to simmered water. This will save you the trial and error that can come with making homemade dashi and usually, will taste better unless you are getting very good basic ingredients.
We simmer meats or vegetables in dashi and then add a flavoring element such as fresh ginger, garlic, or white miso. All Asian markets should have Hon-Dashi or another similar brand available.
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re: Silverjay
If you're talking about this stuff it's Hon Dashi: http://www.amazon.com/Ajinomoto-Dashi...
Hon Dashi is mostly MSG - there are better options for instant dashi, I prefer ones that are in tea packets and just contain the normal dashi ingredients.
Having said that I still keep some Hon Dashi around cuz i't so damned easy to add in small quantities. Also good to have some MSG around...why beat around the bush? Just add the real stuff. :D
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Well, like you said MSG powder, anchovies, dried shrimp, cured ham, soy sauce are all good methods of incorporating umami. I think fish sauce is a very powerful way. Some people like fish sauce. Others dislike it.
To be honest, I don't intentionally incorporate umami in my dishes.
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re: Chemicalkinetics
Fish sauce is one of those things that always throws me off a little, most likely because of the way it smells. I use it whenever a recipe calls for it, but I'd never think of adding it any other time. But now it makes sense. A little dash of fish sauce is likely to enhance any number of dishes. Thanks for the suggestion.
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re: CindyJ
:) I know. Fish sauce is an acquired taste. Some people like it. Some don't. However, I see fish sauce as a very easy way to add umami. Anchovies, dried shrimp, cured ham, all take a bit more works. Very small works, but still, a bit more work. Either you have grind them or simmer them or something. Fish sauce -- just a few drops -- absolutely no prep.
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re: Dave5440
ha! well, i don't have to see them to know, i can *feel* it happening. FYI, i wasn't passing judgment on your preference - we all have our culinary quirks. i was just thinking about the concentration of sodium in those shots...i'm really salt-sensitive, and after a snack like that i wouldn't be able to get my shoes on for the rest of the day ;)
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re: CindyJ
Fish sauces do not go bad as in toxic bad, but the taste can degrade after about 1 year.
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re: thew
I used a small amount of Tiparos fish sauce in my spaghetti sauce, and could taste it.
Not inedible, but I wished I hadn't added it. However, by the next day the flavors had melded and the fish sauce was no longer identifiable. I don't think it made the sauce better, but I was already including lots of garlic, onion, dried mushrooms, cheese, and beef, all of which contribute umami.
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Growing up in a traditional Korean food culture household, I do recognize umami. Until recently, it was more instinctual -- the phrase in Korean is to say that something is "goh-soh hae." A lot of traditional food cultures build umami into their dishes. For example, Koreans have seaweed, anchovies, mackerel, etc. Italians have tomatoes, shellfish, parmigiano reggiano, etc. It doesn't have to be cuisine-specific, but those are the only ones I can name off the top of my head. There is also ham, mushrooms, beans, pork, olives, dwenjang, kimchi, and a lot others. I can definitely tell the difference if having food absent of umami, especially when the dish is supposed to have it, and is starkly apparent in poorly made dishes such as chicken soup and galbi tang.
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re: brandnewuser
There is plenty of umami in the beef, carrots, soy sauce, and shiitake mushrooms that go into the dish. When I was referring to missing umami in galbi tang, I meant more that poorly made ones are just thin, salty, watery broth with chewy galbi pieces and too much potato. Can you further describe the "something" that's missing?
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question- why not msg?
but - mushrooms, anchovies, as you used them, thai fsh sauce, beef stock are all excellent sources of umami
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re: thew
I've got this little voice in my head that keeps telling me that MSG is unhealthy. Back in the day, I used to use it all the time. Now I'm laughing -- thinking of all the ingredients I use regularly that are at least equally unhealthy.
Beef stock... really? I've been thinking I need to find a way to incorporate umami into my beef stock.
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re: thew
Thew, you say "Thai fish sauce"...Does it specifically have to be Thai fish sauce?
Showing my ignorance of the differences here but thought it was all basically fish and salt. Not to hijack this very interesting thread but just curious about this.
And CindyJ, I'm going to have to try your red sauce - it sounds really good!
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