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Trip Report: February 25, 2011

rp1760 Mar 6, 2011 11:07 AM

Boston was so much fun! Even though the weather was windy, rainy, snowy and cold. No probs, though, as I am from Minnesota. Thank you, everyone, for the information and advice as I planned this trip. Every meal I had was great, and the insider tips for sightseeing were much appreciated.

Friday, February 25: O Ya. Oh my. My reservation was at 6:00, I arrived at 5:55, and was promptly seated at the Chef’s Counter. Within a half hour the place was full, and the gentlemen on either side of me were interesting and fun to talk with. I loved all my choices, and next time will happily choose Omakase. Each dish I ordered was beautifully presented, from the plate, to the incredibly fresh product, to the overall creation. It was a real pleasure to be seated at the Counter where I could observe every move of the “Artist Chefs.” I love O Ya. First, I chose Ichishima Daiginjo Sake for my dinner. Very nice. #1: Kumamoto Oyster, watermelon pearls, cucumber mignonette - cold, plump, crisp yet creamy; #2: Roasted Beet Sashimi, myoga, wasabi white soy sauce, shiso – pure art; #3: Tairagai Japanese Pen Shell Clam, smoked salt, white soy yuzo, extra virgin olive oil – surprisingly silky; #4: Diver Scallop, sage tempura, olive oil bubbles, meyer lemon – very bright, tart flavors; #5: Kindai Bluefin Otoro, wasabi oil, lots of green onion – outstanding; #6: Shiso Tempura with Grilled Lobster, charred tomato, ponzu aioli – my favorite dish; #7: Foie Gras, balsamic chocolate kabayaki, raisin cocoa pulp, aged sake – unbelievably imaginative blending of ingredients. This tied for my favorite dish.

Saturday, February 26: Started out early at the USS Constitution. I spent most the morning there, as they had a model ship show at the museum that I found to be very interesting. I enjoyed a margarita pizza at Pizzeria Regina at around 11. Loved it! Great crust, crispy with a slight chew, slightly sweet/slightly spicy sauce, tons of fresh torn basil. Went on to see several other historic sites, then took train to Harvard and walked around for an hour or so. Arrived at Craigie on Main at 6:00, was seated promptly at the Chef’s Counter (they kindly offered choice of table or counter). Amuse: House Cured Pancetti with Potato Round. Chose a half bottle of 2005 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, which paired nicely with everything but the oysters. #1: Six Winterpoint Oysters on the Half Shell, candied lemon mignonette – beautiful shell, small, plump and sweet; #2: Crispy-Fried Nova Scotia Smelts, pickled peppers, preserved lemon, dried black olives, squid ink anchoiade – I had to try this, as I grew up eating smelt from the tributaries of Lake Superior. Lightly breaded, very crisp, great accompaniments; #3: Maine Crab Peekytoe Crab Salad, pink peppercorn vinaigrette, red bliss potatoes, hackleback caviar – really liked this; #4: Salad of Frisee, Endive, and Watercress, crispy onions, walnut-Banyuls vinaigrette: lovely salad, large portion; #5: Bone Marrow with dark crusty bread – Wow. The bone was almost as long as my forearm, and it was halved lengthwise vs. crosswise – very impressive. Beef Butter. Could only finish about ¼, as it was so fabulously rich. #6: Assiette of House-Made Terrines, Foie Gras au Torchon, Pata de Quatre Foies, Venison Terrine, traditional accompaniments – I liked the venison the best, it was well spiced and had a lovely coarse texture; #7: Bourbon Pecan Ice Cream Tart, smoked Mexican salt chocolate sauce, bacon pecan crust, which I paired with 13 year Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon. This was a wonderful finish to the meal, although I could not discern the bacon flavor in the crust. The service was outstanding, Chef Tony Maws stopped over twice to chat, and overall I will say the meal exceeded my somewhat high expectations!

Sunday: Went to Neptune Oyster Bar at 11:00, got a chair at the bar, place was full by 11:30. I ordered the clam chowder and the hot lobster roll. The chowder was outstanding – thinner than I am used to, but excellent flavor with huge, tender clams. The Lobster Roll blew me away. There must have been close to a pound of large chunks of claw and tail meat, all glistening with butter. This was something very, very special. Went to your Fine Arts Museum after, and thoroughly enjoyed myself for nearly 4 hours. I loved your Museum. On the way back to Hotel had the cab driver drive around Fenway a few times – he thought me to be quite odd. I had a reservation at Island Creek Oyster House, but just had to cancel. This lady was gassed. I ordered a salad (surprisingly good) and a mushroom pizza (OK) from room service and watched the Oscars.

O Ya. Top Ten in my book. Craigie On Main – Top Ten and 1/2. Pizzeria Regina – best pizza ever. Neptune Lobster Roll – spectacular.

Regards,
Mary

  1. globalgourmand Apr 7, 2011 07:36 AM

    Such an awesome report-- the kind I wish I was organized and disciplined enough to do! Recently had some of the same items at Cragie. That marrow portion is incredible, right? And for the value, no less!

    Sounds like you did Boston right. Makes me very happy. ...and hungry

    1. mngal Mar 13, 2011 12:07 PM

      Mary -
      We are heading off to Boston on our way to Ireland in April. This is a fantastic start for me to begin planning our three days in Boston. Managed to get tix for the Sox vs. Yankees. Can't wait to see Fenway....and compare it to our new Target Field! I look forward to reading some more of your posts.

      MNGal

      2 Replies
      1. re: mngal
        rp1760 Mar 13, 2011 04:59 PM

        I hope you have a great time in Boston! And Ireland? I am jealous.

        For my trip, I relied on the best ChowPosters ever. Check out this thread - the information was invaluable:
        http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/765459

        1. re: rp1760
          sunro Mar 13, 2011 06:59 PM

          My husband and I are headed to Boston on Thurs for the weekend from Ft Worth, TX. I was going to post but managed to learn so much from your two threads that I think we're good! Glad you had such wonderful dining experiences, and thanks from a "lurkish" type person for all the time spent from those who gave wonderful recommendations. I might go check out the TX threads and see if I can pay it forward :)

      2. p
        pemma Mar 8, 2011 04:24 AM

        Thanks for reporting. You know how to pick 'em!

        1. Eatin in Woostah Mar 7, 2011 06:26 PM

          Sounds like a fantastic trip - thank you so much for reporting back! I love it that you really took the Boston 'hounds' advice to heart. You really hit the highlights on this trip. Kudos!

          1. yumyum Mar 7, 2011 09:51 AM

            What a spectacular report! I'm jealous! So glad you enjoyed your time.

            1. g
              gourmaniac Mar 7, 2011 05:12 AM

              Thanks for reporting back. That was an ideal Boston eating trip! Kudos.

              1. opinionatedchef Mar 6, 2011 08:06 PM

                mary, i was thinking of you today and hoping you'd report. How generous of you to offer all those details; I'll be psyched to follow in your footsteps! So happy to hear that things went so well for you here!

                1 Reply
                1. re: opinionatedchef
                  rp1760 Mar 7, 2011 06:17 PM

                  Thanks, Mindy. I am so grateful to you, and all the other posters on this Board. To think I was planning to eat at Faneuil Hall when I started my planning! I am so happy with the final choices I made based on comments and information from y'all. Regards, Mary

                2. k
                  katekinney Mar 6, 2011 07:47 PM

                  holy shit, this sounds like a great eating adventure. how are you able to remember every single oyster detail?

                  your loving sister!

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: katekinney
                    rp1760 Mar 7, 2011 06:29 AM

                    I keep the menus. :)

                    By the way, here's a picture of the beet dish from O Ya.

                     
                  2. g
                    gramercyfoodie Mar 6, 2011 03:40 PM

                    Thanks so much for reporting back -- it is so nice to hear that you had a great (and delicious) time.

                    1. m
                      Madrid Mar 6, 2011 01:16 PM

                      So great to hear your report. And I'm as glad you liked the Constitution museum and the MFA as the food. Next time you are here, consider taking the short MBTA boat ride from near the Constitution museum to Long wharf, where the aquarium is, and back, or vice versa. Stunning views of the city and you get the idea of the water environment. It's only $1.50 one way and it's great. At long wharf, you could stop to get a drink and snack at Sel de la Terre or Legal Seafood right there (unfortunately there is not much good chow to recommend near the constitution). Legal has nothing on Neptune, but you can just get a drink.

                      I'm not surprised you had to decamp to the hotel.....thanks so much for the report...given that I've adopted a hugely special needs child from foster care, I don't get to travel much, but if I have a chance to visit Minneapolis again, I'll definitely ask for your advice. I have friends there and last visited about 12 years ago. I'm sure it's changed hugely. We finally have some Hmong farmers here and we get to enjoy their great produce especially pea tendrils now in the summer at farmers markets. I really lusted after those pea greens after visiting Minneapolis!

                      1. c
                        cherrytomato Mar 6, 2011 12:54 PM

                        I want to vacation with you. You know how to do it right. Bravo!

                        1. rlove Mar 6, 2011 11:41 AM

                          Wow you hit Boston's highlights, or at least my personal favorites--Craigie on Main, O Ya, and Neptune Oyster are all something special, unique. Great choices, and happy to hear you enjoyed yourself so much. Thank you for the review.

                          Next time you are in town, give Coppa or Erbaluce a visit for some excellent, interesting Italian--and, separately, visit Craigie again to enjoy its oft-changing menu.

                          -----
                          O Ya
                          9 East Street, Boston, MA 02111

                          Neptune Oyster
                          63 Salem St Ste 1, Boston, MA 02113

                          Erbaluce
                          69 Church Street, Boston, MA 02116

                          Coppa
                          253 Shawmut Ave, Boston, MA 02118

                          1. n
                            nincyh Mar 6, 2011 11:32 AM

                            Awesome! Glad you had such a great Boston experience, and reported back.

                            1. barleywino Mar 6, 2011 11:23 AM

                              thank you for reporting back! sounds like you batted 1000 on your visit, foodwise.

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