Le Champignon Sauvage - michelin 2 star in cheltenham.
Had a wonderful dinner at Le champignon sauvage , well worth the long journey from Cumbria to Cheltenham.We ended up being fortunate enough to be "cooked for" by David everitt matthias which really got us both excited.Menus were handed back to the staff and we were left in the hands of the kitchen team to do what they do best.
All in all it ended up at 12 courses and we were both struggling badly as we waited for coffee....and petits fours....all 10 of them.I forced myself with all my energy to clean them all up but failed on the fifth.I ended up with the little golden box and packed my treats into it to finish off for breakfast.
As for service...Absolutely spot on , well trained front of house staff and Chefs good lady wife Helen took care of us very professionally indeed.We got to meet the guys in the kitchen , all decent lads willing to offer assistance in any questions about the food.....Oh about those Scarlet Elf cup mushrooms ????
( Full set of photos on flickr - sped98 gallery http://www.flickr.com/photos/24726943...
SOME PRE DINNER NIBBLES – PARMESAN CUSTARD IN CHORIZO CRUMBS , BRIOCHE CRISPS AND GROUND ELDER DIP , BACON AND SWEETCORN MUFFINS.
WALNUT AND BLUE CHEESE COOKIES , GUINNESS BREAD , SMOKED HORSERADISH AND PIGS EAR BISCUITS.
CHICKEN MUSHI WITH CAULIFLOWER FOAM.
DEXTER BEEF TARTARE AND CORNED BEEF,
WASABI CREAM, PICKLED SHIMEJI MUSHROOMS
DIVED SCALLOPS, ‘CROWN PRINCE’ PUMPKIN, CHESTNUT VELOUTÉ,
CHESTNUT AND WHITE BALSAMIC CARAMEL
ROASTED HAKE, PARSLEY ROOT PURÉE,
REMOULADE OF PARSLEY ROOT, CHICKEN JUICES
CORNISH DAB, BRAISED COCKS COMB, WILD GARLIC AND SCARLET ELF CUP FUNGI.
WINCHCOMBE VENISON, HOMEMADE BLACK PUDDING
SALT AND BURDOCK BAKED GOLDEN BEETROOT, ROASTED QUINCE
CARROT PORRIDGE, MILK FOAM
RHUBARB POACHED WITH HIBISCUS, MASCARPONE CREAM,
RHUBARB AND HIBISCUS SORBET, GIN AND TONIC SYRUP
VANILLA CHEESECAKE, SALTED CHICORY ROOT MOUSSE,
BITTER CHOCOLATE SORBET
COFFEE AND PETITS FOURS
LeCS November 2012
Our twice annual pilgrimage to Cheltenham to worship at the feet of Helen & David did not go unrewarded. The pre-starter of crab mooshi and cauliflower foam was simply stunning. Superb death of flavours and textural lightness of the custard was an absolute joy. It’s one of those dishes you just never want to end. David was characteristically modest when I asked him about it afterwards – just stock and eggs and steam…
Ox cheek, tongue and watercress risotto followed – so much flavour was packed into this deep green peppery risotto which held its own against the rich ox cheek. Delicious.
The scallops and lobster came with heritage carrots and puree with gingerbread foam and buttermilk sauces accompanied by what I think was hedge bedstraw – yup, new to me too. Being honest I really didn’t expect this to work but he somehow arrived at a perfect balance of the familiar (scallops & lobster) and the unexpected (gingerbread and buttermilk).
Next was a dish of potato and turkey pastrami with buffalo mozzarella foam, onion puree, capers, sea purslane and soot. Comfort food but really really good complex sophisticated comfort food.
So far the meal was pretty excellent but nothing quite prepared for sea bass and caramelised chicken wing with oyster sauce and sunflower root. Sunflower root, shout it out. It was marinated in white balsamic and orange and had lovely crisp texture with citrus & vanilla flavours. Just delicious and completely overshadowed the sea bass which itself was no shrinking violet.
Next was partridge breast, leg & breast rissoles with black pudding sauce, slices of pear and radish and what I think was beetroot jelly (again, poor note taking). Stonking good dish on a playful theme of partridge in a pear tree.
I was pretty stuffed by now but Helen came to my rescue with some excellent calvados. Sadly I skipped most the desserts and I was reliable informed that they tasted as good as they looked.