Help with deep south itinerary

[Joanie]

First I thought I was going to Lima/Machu Picchu then it was Helsinki/St. Petersburg but those people crapped out so now I'm thinking a solo trip to finally see the real south. Probably fly in and out of Mobile (seems to have the best airfare from Boston), a couple days there, up to Montgomery and Tuscaloosa, down to Gulfport and Biloxi or vice versa, about 7 nites total. Plan on taking scenic food oriented routes, seeing some historical sites, hopefully having a good cocktail before/after/at dinner and if I'm really lucky, finding good rock music and record stores. Does this sound like a good group of places to visit? I feel like the Gulf Coast in early May would be good timing. I've glanced thru this thread:

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/644863

but will take any advice you'd like to give me. Looking for southern/low country/bbq/bakeries and a couple nicer dinners and good seafood. Thanks.

[hazelhurst]

Doubtless you will get tons of recs but in the areas you talk about that I frequent (Tuscaloosa and Gulf Coast) I'd certainyl say Archibald's BBQ in Tuscaloosa and Vrazel's on the coast. You can take Archi's stuff with you en route to Cullman, north of B-ham, where you will marvel at teh Ave Maria Grotto.

[Joanie]

So much for the tons of recs (except for Littleman), this board's a little different than Boston's. If anyone has thoughts on the gulf coast and Alabama, I'm all ears.

Littleman, if you get a chance, can you email joanie at wmbr dot org so I can ask specific things once I really start gathering info. Thanks.

[Clarkafella]

Littleman is usually so comprehensive there is very little to add! I don't think that he listed Ricky's in Waveland though- certainly worth a stop but I would call first to be sure they are still open. Lots of seafood- I remember getting an appetizer sampler that was too much food for both my wife and I even though it was great! Pre-Katrina though, YMMV...

[Dax]

The Boston Board has hundreds of contributors, if not a thousand plus by now. We have maybe 20-25 consistent contributors for Birmingham and smaller amounts for the other regions this board covers (4 states).

I have not been to Mobile yet (although that should change this weekend and I want to try the Brick Pit), nor have I eaten much in Tuscaloosa, Montgomery, or any of the MS Coastal areas. Generally, searches are the best sources for these lesser-frequented boards, plus Littleman. If you decide to swing by Birmingham, the folks from Bham can make a lot more suggestions.

I hope you have a great trip.

Dax

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Brick Pit
5456 Old Shell Rd, Mobile, AL 36608

[Littleman]

Dax........Here's The Brick Pit............

The best BBQ in the area is at Brick Pit. Get off I 10 at Exit 15B and go N on Highway 90 for 3 miles to Demetropolis Road. Take a left and continue on Demetropolis Road which becomes S University Boulevard. Go about 5 miles from the left you took on Demetropolis to Old Shell Road. Take a right and go to Brick Pit for outstanding BBQ.

The Brick Pit @ 5456 Old Shell Rd., Mobile, AL 251 - 343 - 0001.
http://brickpit.com/

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Brick Pit
5456 Old Shell Rd, Mobile, AL 36608

[fat harry]

I always enjoyed Wintzell's Oyster House in Mobile.

[Littleman]

I would fly into and out of Memphis. There's more to do there than Mobile. Enjoy Beale Street, BBQ and Elvis for 3 nights and head S on # 61 through Clarksdale, Greenwoo, Greenville, Vicksburg and Natchez to NOLA. You will travel through the historic Mississippi Delta home of the Blues. Here's a link to visiting the Delta. Enjuoy the Blues in Clarksdale and BBQ as well as The Alluvian Hotel in Greenwood which is a 4 * hotel owned by Viking Range. The Delta has wonderful restaurants. Visit the National Military Park in Vicksburg and the antebellum homes. Visit historic Natchez and the antebellum homes there.

http://www.visitthedelta.com/

After a few days in the Delta and 3/4 in NOLA head E on I 10 to Biloxi/Gulfport for a night or two. Head to Mobile for lunch and spend a night in Montgomery. Head N to Nashville for a couple of nights and back to Memphis for your flight home. Stay downtown in Memphis and visit Beale Street. Good luck.

[Joanie]

I thought about Memphis, I know there's more to do, but this time I'm going to go further south. I've been to both New Orleans and Nashville (altho Nashville was before my food notes were 4 pages long) so if you have thoughts more on the southern tip, that'd be cool. That Delta site you sent is awesome, do you think it's easy to fit those places in if I also go to the Alabama towns? I'm kind of using Mobile as a base and that airfare was decent (ticket on hold, not bought yet), not really sure what's there yet. This is just 7 days and while I'd like to see lots of places, I don't want to be driving all the time. Thanks.

[Littleman]

If you insist on Mobile you could visit Gulfport/Biloxi for a night and head W on I 10 to Lafayette, LA for lunch then head N to Baton Rouge and Highway 61 to Natchez, MS. Spend a night or two in historic Natchez and head N to Vicksburg and visit the National Military Park. Have lunch at Rusty's River Front Grill then head N on # 61 to Greenwood, MS. Spend 2 nights at The Alluvian and have dinner at Lusco's. Drive N to Clarksdale and have lunch at Ground Zero owned by Morgan Freeman and visit the Blue's Museum next door. Drive S on # 1 to Greenville and have dinner at Doe's eat place then head E to Greenwood for your second night at The Alluvian. Have after dinner drinks in their bar. You should visit Clarksdale somehow because it's home of the blues and good BBQ. Highway 82 runs E from Greenville through Greenwood to Tuscaloosa, AL

Spend 1 night in G/B, 1 night in Natchez, 2 nights in Greenwood, 1 night in Tuscaloosa and head back to Mobile for the last 2 nights. You could drive S to Gulfshores/Orange Beach to visit for the day and head back to Mobile through Fairhope/Point Clear and visit historic Grand Hotel at PC.

Alluvian Hotel @ 318 Howard Street, Greenwood, MS 662 - 451 - 1500.
http://www.thealluvian.com/
Monmouth Plantation @ 36 Melrose Avenue, Natchez, MS 601 - 442 - 5852.
http://monmouthplantation.com/
The Castle Restaurant and Pub @ 84 Homochitto St., Natchez, MS. 601 - 446 - 8500.
http://www.dunleith.com/castle-overview.html
Doe's Eat Place @ 502 Nelson St., Greenville, MS 662 - 334 - 3315.
http://www.doeseatplace.com/
The Grand Hotel Marriott Resort @ One Grand Blvd., Point Clear, AL 251 - 928 - 9201.
http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ptlal-grand-hotel-marriott-resort-golf-club-and-spa

Here's another site on dining in the Delta. Click on Documentary at the top then Oral History Project Index. There you will find comprehensive info on dining in the SE. Go to Mississippi and click on the various links there for dining. You will also find links on AL. The southern BBQ trail link is really interesting.

http://www.southernfoodways.com/

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Lusco's
722 Carrollton Ave, Greenwood, MS 38930

[Littleman]

Here's a few joints you might like to stop and rest on your way W from Mobile to Louisiana.

The best seafood in Mobile, AL is at Wintzell's Oyster House. Get off I 10 at Exit 26 A and go W on Canal Steet. Go .4 mile and turn right on S Washington Avenue. Turn right and go .3 mile to Dauphine Street. Take a right and Wintzell's will be on your right. The best BBQ in the area is at Brick Pit. Get off I 10 at Exit 15B and go N on Highway 90 for 3 miles to Demetropolis Road. Take a left and continue on Demetropolis Road which becomes S University Boulevard. Go about 5 miles from the left you took on Demetropolis to Old Shell Road. Take a right and go to Brick Pit for outstanding BBQ. For fine po boy's and fresh seafood get off I 10 at Exit 15A and go N on Government Boulevard to Hall's Mill Road just past the shopping center on the right. Take a right and go to the Boiling Point.
Wintzell's Oyster House @ 605 Dauphin St., Mobile, AL 251 - 432 - 4605.
http://www.wintzellsoysterhouse.com/
The Brick Pit @ 5456 Old Shell Rd., Mobile, AL 251 - 343 - 0001.
http://brickpit.com/
The Boiling Pot @ Suite G, 5300 Halls Mill Road, Mobile, AL 251 - 602 - 8405.
http://www.theboilingpotllc.com/
For fine southern comfort food get off I 10 at Exit 68 at Moss Point, MS and go N on Highway 613 to Tugus restaurant. Stay on Highway 90 going E from Ocean Springs, MS. Go to Market Street and take a right. Go to Ingall's Avenue and take a left. Go 3 or 4 blocks to Bozo's Grocery for fine po boy's.
For good BBQ and fun times get off I 10 at Exit 57 and go N on Highway 57 to The Shed for lunch or dinner. For fine country food for breakfast or lunch go E on Highway 90 to Ocean Springs, MS and turn right on Washington Avenue. Take your first left on Robinson Street and go to Bayview Gourmet. Fayard's has good BBQ. Ward's has good seafood and steaks. Phoenicia has good breakfast, lunch or dinner.
Tugus Restaurant @ 6909 Highway 613, Moss Point, MS 228 - 474 - 9910.
Bozo's Grocery @ 2012 Ingalls Ave., Pascagoula, MS 228 - 762 - 3322.
The Shed BBQ and Blues Joint @ 7501 Hwy. 57, Ocean Springs, MS. 228 - 875 - 9590.
http://www.theshedbbq.com/ordereze/intro.html
Bayview Gourmet @ 1010 Robinson St., Ocean Springs, MS. 228 - 875 - 4252.
Fayard's BP @ 6905 Washington Ave, Ocean Springs, MS. 228 - 875 - 1020.
Kenny Ward's @ 1504 Government St., Ocean Springs, MS. 228 - 818 - 4505.
McElroy's on the Bayou @ 705 Bienville Blvd. 228 - 818 - 4600.
Phoenicia Gourmet Cuisine @ 123 Government St., Ocean Springs, MS. 228 - 875 - 0603.
Continue on Highway 90 to Highway 49 N in Gulfport, MS. Take a left and go one block to 13th Street and turn left to Half Shell Oyster House for fine fresh seafood for lunch or dinner. Or continue on Highway 90 to Cowan Road which is E of Highway 49 in Gulfport, MS between Gulfport, MS and Biloxi, MS. Go N on Cowan Road to W Pine Street. Turn left and go 3 blocks to Washington Street, Turn right and go to Blow Fly Inn where the local's dine on fresh seafood for lunch or dinner. Continue E on Highway 90 to Caillavet Street just E of I 110. Turn left and go N to Howard. Turn right and go one block to Old Biloxi Schooner for good po boy's. For fine fresh oysters and good seafood continue E on Howard to Fillin Station for lunch or dinner.
Half Shell Oyster House @ FL 1st, 2500 13th St., Gulfport, MS 228 - 867 - 7001.
http://halfshelloysterhouse.com/
Blow Fly Inn @ 1201 Washington Ave., Gulfport, MS 228 - 896 - 9812.
http://www.blowflyinn.com/
Ole Biloxi Schooner @ 871 Howard Ave., Biloxi, MS 228 - 435 - 8071.
Fillin Station @ 692 Howard Ave., Biloxi, MS 228 - 432 - 5565.
http://www.fillinstationbiloxi.com/
Continue on Highway 90 to Darwell's Cafe in Long Beach, MS for good lunch or dinner. Darwell's was featured on Diners, Drive In's and Dives. Continue on Highway 90 to Shaggy's Harbor Bar and Grill across from the Pass Christian Yacht Club for good fresh seafood, cold drinks and nice music. Get off I 10 at Exit 2 at Bay St. Louis, MS and go E on Scenic Highway 90 to Trapani's for fine fresh seafood for lunch or dinner.
Darwells Cafe @ 127 East 1st St., Long Beach, MS. 228 - 868 - 8946.
http://www.darwellscafe.co
Shaggy's Harbor Bar and Grill @ 120 S. Hiern Ave., Pass Harbor, Pass Christian, MS. 228 - 452 - 9939.
http://www.shaggys.biz/
Trapani's @ 833 Highway 90 # 3, Bay St. Louis, MS 228 - 467 - 8570.
Or get off I 12 at Exit 65 and go S on Highway 59 to Lakeshore Drive. Turn left and go to Rip's for great fresh seafood overlooking Lake Pontchartain. Get off I 12 at Exit 63A in Covington, LA and go N on Highway 190 to Acme Oyster House for fresh seafood for lunch or dinner. Get off I 12 at Exit 63A and go S on Highway 190 to Bear's Grill and Spirit's for outstanding po boys and sandwiches.
Rip's on the Lake @ 1917 Lakeshore Drive, Mandeville, LA 985 - 727 - 2829.
Bear's Grill and Spirit's @ 1809 North Causeway Boulevard, Mandeville, LA 985 - 674 - 9090.
http://www.bearsgrillandspirits.com/
Acme Oyster House @ 1202 N Highway 190, Covington, LA 985 - 246 - 6155.
www.acmeoyster.com/index.php…
Get off I 12 in Hammond, LA @ Exit 38B and go N for 2 miles on I55 to Exit 31 for Highway 190 and go E. Turn right on Highway 190 after .2 mile for W Thomas Street. Go 1.2 miles and Voo Doo BBQ will be on your left.
Voo Doo BBQ & Grill @ 2108 W. Thomas St., Hammond, LA. 985 - 345 - 1131.
http://www.voodoobbqandgrill.com/
Get off I 10 at Exit 157A in Baton Rouge, LA to Perkins Road and take a right to Parrain's for outstanding fresh seafood for lunch or dinner. Or get off I 10 at Exit 157A in Baton Rouge, La to Perkins Road. Take a left and Acme Oyster House is on your left open for lunch or dinner serving outstanding fresh seafood.
Parrain's Seafood Restaurant @ 3225 Perkins Road, Baton Rouge, LA 225 - 381 - 9922.
http://www.parrains.com/
Acme Oyster House @ 3535 Perkins Road, Baton Rouge, LA 225 - 906 - 2372.
http://www.acmeoyster.com/
Get off I 10 at Exit 115 in Henderson, LA and go E on Highway 352 to Henderson Levee Road to Pat's Fisherman's Wharf for good cajun food. Go to Whiskey River Landing for good music and cold drinks.
Pat's Fisherman's Wharf @ 1008 Henderson Levee Rd., Henderson, LA 337 - 228 - 7512.
http://www.patsfishermanswharf.com/
Whiskey River Landing @ 1365 Henderson Levee Road, Breaux Bridge, LA 337 - 228 - 2277.
http://www.whiskeyriverlanding.net/
Get off I 10 at Exit 109 in Breaux Bridge and go S on Rees Street or Highway 328 and go to Le Cafe for outstanding Po Boys. Or get Off I 10 at Exit 109 and go N on Highway 328 which is Anse Broussard Highway also to Poche Bridge Road. Go N to Main Highway and Poche Market and Restaurant for good Cajun cuisine for lunch. This is a buffet so you might really like it if you are in a hurry.
Le Cafe @ 124 Rees St., Breaux Bridge, LA 337 - 332 - 2500.
Poche's Market and Restaurant @ 3015 Main Hwy., Breaux Bridge, LA. 337 - 332 - 2108.
http://www.pochesmarket.com/
Get off I 10 at Exit 101 in Lafayette, LA then go S on Hwy. 182 which is N University. Go less than a mile to Creole Cafe for good country breakfast or plate lunch.
Creole Cafe @ 1227 N. University Ave., Lafayette, LA 337 - 266 - 4648.
Or get off I 10 at Exit 101 in Lafayette, LA and go S on Hwy. 182 which is N University. Go S on University and it becomes W University. Take a right on Johsnton St. and go three blocks and take a right on W St. Mary Blvd.then go one block where you will find Old Thyme Grocery for good road food and the best po boys in LA.
Old Tyme Grocery @ 218 West Saint Mary Blvd., Lafayette, LA 337 - 235 - 8165.
Or get off I 10 in Lafayette, LA at Exit 101 and go S on Hwy. 182 which is N University. Go S on University and it becomes W University then it becomes E University. Go to Pinhook and take a right then go about 6 blocks to Blue Dog Cafe for great road food.
Blue Dog Cafe @ 1211 West Pinhook Road, Lafayette, LA 337 - 237 - 0005.
http://www.bluedogcafe.com/

[Littleman]

After an early breakfast which is free at The Alluvian head N on # 49 to Clarksdale. If you want to try the best Clarksdale has to offer have an early lunch at Ground Zero which is owned by Morgan Freeman and two of his friends. Get a plate lunch or sandwich but eat light. The Blues Museum is next door. Before you leave Clarksdale, MS go to Hick's and get another light lunch of BBQ and tamales. This way you get the best of Clarksdale. Morgan owns Madidi's which is a fine dining restaurant a few blocks from Ground Zero if you would like to stop in for drinks and/or snacks before you leave Clarksdale, MS. It's very nice and highly recommended. The bar opens at 5 PM. There's an old neat store that sells a lot of junk across the street from Madidi's and plenty of places for the wife to purchase items to take home. I wish you could visit Oxford, MS. If not then plan 6/7 hours in Clarksdale. Have an early lunch at GZ, visit the Museum, walk around downtown and shop, get some tamales at Hick's. After lunch head back S on Sunflower by the river and stop at Hick's just to visit. Take a right on Highway 61 which is State St. Go across the river and Hick's is on the right in nice red brick building. Go in visit and get a cold drink. Talk to Eugene and look at his pictures when President Clinton visited. On your way N stop at The Ranchero and get a cold drink. Charlie Conerly who was a famous QB for the NY Giants lived in Clarksdale and there are all kinds of old sports photo's there of Conerly and some of his old buddies. It's a fun place and the food is outstanding. Here's a link to Clarksdale Blues. A lot of folks like the Shack Up Inn to stay in Clarksdale. I like The Alluvian. They have a spa, fine dining and cooking school. The Shack Up is a shack but different.

http://www.mrjumbo.com/contents/delta99/3delta/clarksdale.html
http://www.shackupinn.com/

I really hope you find time to visit Oxford. It's my favorite town in Mississippi. If so head N on State St. to Highway 278/6 E to Batesville/Oxford. It's about 60 miles to Oxford. You should be there around 3PM. When you get to Oxford you will come to a red light and Jackson Ave. going to the left. Go straight ahead and get off at the first Exit which is Coliseum Dr. Get off on right but turn back left and cross the highway. Take your first right by the Basketball Practice Facility on Hill Drive. You will see the football stadium straight ahead. Go to dead end at All American Drive turn right and go past N end of stadium. You will run into the Grove. Go to the left on University Ave. and you will go past the Grove on your right and run into the Circle. Go around the circle and you will see The Lyseum which is the oldest building on campus. The James Meredith riot started in the Circle. There's a monument of him behind the Lyseum. The street you came in on at The Grove is University Ave. Take it back E all the way to Lamar. Take a right on Lamar and go about 6 blocks and take a right on Old Taylor. Go about 3 blocks and you run dead into Faulkner's home. You can drive up the gravel road in front and park and go in and visit. Go back to Lamar and go N past University Ave. two blocks and park. You are now on The Square. The building on your left is Square Books which is very famous. John Grisham has a home in Oxford. You passed it on the right just before you got to town. It sits off to the right on a hill and it's easy to see. It's just before the car dealership before you get to the first red light. He's a frequent visitor to Oxford.

Park and walk around the Square. City Grocery is two doors down W of Square Books. Neilson's to your right on the Square is a nice department store. If you walk past City Grocery on the left you will see Waltz Restaurant after you pass the Pizza joint. Going around the Square you will find Ajax which is a good country food joint. There are a couple of nice ladie's shops on that side of the Square. Downtown Grill is on N side of Square. They have a nice bar upstairs. There's a Rebel junk store around on the N side if you want to buy a Rebel souvenir to take home. Go N on Lamar and Lenora's is on the left. Have dinner at City Grocery. CG has a nice bar upstairs and you can sit outside if you like.

City Grocery @ 152 Courthouse Square, Oxford, MS. 662 - 232 - 8080.
http://www.citygroceryonline.com/

You will find some outstanding casual local dining in Greenwood at Lusco's, Crystal Grill and Giardinia's. Giardinia's is in The Alluvian Hotel. The Crystal has good plate lunches, seafood and steaks. Giardinia's and Lusco's both have outstanding seafood and steaks. Lusco's is old style in a fairly rough neighborhood but safe with lots of history and famous names that have been there. Everyone dines in a booth with a curtain same as Giardinia's.

Crystal Grill @ 423 Carrollton Ave.,Greenwood, MS 662 - 453 - 6530.
Giardinia's @ 314 Howard St., Greenwood, MS 662 - 455 - 4227.
http://www.thealluvian.com/restaurants.html
Lusco's @ 722 Carrollton Ave., Greenwood, MS 662 - 453 - 5365.

Stop in Greenville, MS on your way back to Greenwood from Clarksdale for dinner at Doe's Eat Place. Greenville, MS is W of Greenwood, MS on Highway 82. Doe's Eat Place is not to be missed. You enter the restaurant through the kitchen where you can watch the steaks being prepared. In the center of the main dining room there are stoves at which the fries are made and salads are prepared there as well. In most cases, one steak there easily feeds two.
Doe's Eat Place @ 502 Nelson Street, Greenville, MS 662 - 334 - 3315.
http://www.doeseatplace.com/

In Vicksburg you could tour the old antebellum homes and the Vicksburg National Military Park.
Have lunch/dinner @ Rusty's River Front Grill @ 901 South Washington St., Vicksburg, MS 601 - 638 -2030.
or @ Walnut Hills @ 1214 Adams Street, Vicksburg, MS 601 - 638 - 4910‎ for southern cooking.
Stop in Greenville, MS if you have time for dinner at Doe's Eat Place @ 502 Nelson Street
Greenville, MS 662 - 334 - 3315.
http://www.doeseatplace.com/

Rosswood is a great B&B between Vicksburg and Natchez.
Rosswood Plantation @ 2513 Red Lick Road, Lorman, MS 601 - 437 - 4215.
http://www.rosswood.net/

I would definitely stop in Natchez and spend a day touring the plantation homes there. Monmouth is an oustanding place for the night. The dining room there is superb. I would also check out The Carriage House Restaurant at Stanton Hall for a wonderful lunch.
http://www.stantonhall.com/
http://www.monmouthplantation.com/

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Alluvian Hotel
318 Howard St, Greenwood, MS

[Joanie]

Oh my god, wow that's a lot of info. I'll definitely be looking at the options in #2 a lot, don't think I'll get as far north as Oxford (I may try for Tupelo but that's pretty north too). I'm afraid your accommodation choices are too ritzy for my tastes. Well, not my taste as much as I'd rather spend that money on other stuff esp. since I'll be on my own. Quick look at Monmouth seems to be sold out around that time anyway. The restaurant options in Biloxi, Gulfport, Mandeville, etc. look awesome so I'll be researching a lot of these links. Thanks a lot.

[Littleman]

I would spend a night in Biloxi/Gulfport and dine at Half Shell and Old Biloxi Schooner. You might stop at Trapani's for an early lunch on your way W to LA. I would have lunch in Lafayette, LA because it's a neat town. Here's some more places to stay in Natchez.

Bisland House B & B @ 404 South Commerce Street, Natchez, MS 601 - 304 - 5806.
http://www.bislandhouse.com/
Burn B & B @ 712 North Union Street, Natchez, MS 601 - 442 - 1344.
http://theburnbnb.com/
Comfort Suites @ 100 Front Street, Vidalia, LA 318 - 336 - 1655.
http://www.natchezms.com/hotel.htm
Devereaux Shields House @ 709 North Union Street, Natchez, MS 601 - 304 - 5378.
http://www.dshieldsusa.com/
1888 Wensel House B & B @ 206 Washington Street, Natchez, MS 601 - 445 - 8577.
http://www.1888wenselhouse.com/
Natchez Grand Hotel @ 111 South Broadway Street, Natchez, MS 601 - 446 - 9994.
http://www.natchezgrandhotel.com/
Oak Hill Inn and B & B @ 409 South Rankin Street, Natchez, MS 601 - 446 - 2500.
http://www.historicoakhill.com/

You need to spend the night in Greenwood so you can eat at Lusco's and Crystal Grill. There's a new Hampton Inn there. Go to the Alluvian for a drink.

Hampton Inn @ 1815 Highway 82 West, Greenwood, MS 662 - 455 - 7985.
http://hamptoninn.hilton.com/en/hp/ho...