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End grain Maple butcher block/cutting board?

Can anyone tell me where I can find a good quality "end grain" maple butcher block in The G.T.A?
I don't wan't to order form the states($60. to $70. shipping and duty).
Thanks.

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  1. Try Golda's Kitchen - http://kitchenware.goldaskitchen.com/...
    They are located in Mississauga but have full online store as well. Seem to have a few different versions.

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    Golda's Kitchen
    2885 Argentia Rd, Mississauga, ON L5N, CA

    3 Replies
    1. re: Blinkins

      thanks very much Blinkins! They have some great boards.Do you know if Icould pick up directly from the store and save myself $40.00 shipping(I'm such a cheap ass)?

      1. re: petek

        Should be possible. Call to confirm.

        1. re: petek

          Yes, they have a store front (http://www.goldaskitchen.com/about5.i...) I would just call to make sure they have item in stock before you head there or if you order online that you can stipulate for pick up there. I would think that wouldn't be an issue but always a good idea to check :)

      2. Petek, when you go to Golda's Kitchen, I suggest not worrying about catalog, in stock etc, especially so that you did mention GTA. As one living in the North West GTA, I have learned to plan trips, make several stops of benefit, etc. The point is agreed to avoid the horrible and overpriced shipping charges. Better as you said GTA and plan a Chowhound trip if heading to an area you might not find yourself in again or not often. I have done this hundreds of times, and it does make so much more sense than paying such shipping costs. A bonus might be that Golda's Kitchen may even have other items of interest to you or your friends/relatives!!! Shipping Charges Begone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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        Golda's Kitchen
        2885 Argentia Rd, Mississauga, ON L5N, CA

        1 Reply
        1. re: Jar

          Thanks all! Gratitude...I'll definitely call ahead.

        2. The Boos boards from costco.ca are cheaper and free shipping. http://www.costco.ca/Common/Category....

          6 Replies
          1. re: jayt90

            Thanks jayt90. It's nice to have some options.

            1. re: jayt90

              Those look nice. I hesitantly seconded Golda's but think they're slipping back into their old ways with ridiculous pricing.

              1. re: jayt90

                Jay, thanks for that link! I'd never have thought of Costco online for boards! Wonderful to know what's out there and I'm thinking what a great gift these would make too!.

                1. re: jayt90

                  I agree - Costco's great for a lot of kitchenware at great prices- but just note that the Boos boards are not 'end-grain' as requested in original post, but rather 'edge grain' thus more affordable. I remember seeing a Anna and Kristina Grocery Bags episode recently where they tested wooden chopping boards - the end-cut (although made out of a different wood) didn't actually fair all that well in their rather 'un-scientific' tests - they actually preferred a Bamboo one! If you want, you might check out their website www.thegrocerybags.com and search on chopping boards to see their findings.

                  1. re: Blinkins

                    Having recently made an end grain maple, cherry and walnut, cherry and maple edge grain and a couple of decorative face grain cheese boards for Christmas, I can tell you there is a great deal more work that goes into the end grain boards. The face and edge grain boards like the planer, the end grains do not. I lost 6" off the end of my edge grain and fortunately I had read enough to ensure that I was standing to the side. The six inches shot out the back and hit the door twenty feet away. End grain boards pretty much need a low angle jack plane or a drum sander and a lot of patience. Therefore, the extra cost!

                    The Costco boards are nice edge grain and they will last a long time. I have a friend who made one 17 years ago and all it needs is another run through the planer to fix up the top and bottom from knife wear. It's been used every day for the seventeen years.

                    Most US end grain boards of a good size run between $180 and $230. More detailed patterns add to the cost. As mentioned somewhere below, end grain boards should not have all of the lines lining up, they should be offset to make it stronger. The other factor is the amount of glue that goes into an end grain board. It takes a lot more Titebond III to hold it together. A weak joint will break easily with just a tap in the right spot. The thickness of the board also adds substantially to the cost. A 2" board is a lot more reasonable than a 3 or 4" thick board. There is also speculation as to thicker boards being more durable, with a 2" board being closer to the minimum thickness. Of course, each extra inch of thickness adds to the weight of the board.

                    I hope this helps explain why the prices are so varied.

                    1. re: Dflip

                      So what would you charge for a 16"x22"x2" Maple end grain block?

                2. I'm having one made by a local guy just starting out as I type. Mine will be quite large (28X18X3), but he'll make anything to your specifications.

                  Check him out here, and there are a few pictures of his cutting boards if you look him up on facebook:
                  http://joeldidthis.com/
                  http://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/p...

                  2 Replies
                  1. re: dlw88

                    thanks dlw88. is he making you an "end grain" board/block? And do you mind if I ask how much?

                    1. re: petek

                      Yes, of course mine will be end grain. The price for me was more than reasonable, however, Joel is working on a much larger project for me as well. Here's another link to some of his work. I think he's willing to work with whichever wood and glues you'd prefer.

                      http://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/a...

                  2. I saw at Knife, the newish Japanese knife store on Queen West. Their shape/proportion stood out, as they were a bit narrower than what is usual. When asked about it, the owner mentioned they were custom made for the store by a wood working friend with offcuts of maple they weren't big enough for furniture. However, I don't remember if they were end grain or not.
                    http://knifetoronto.com/

                    The board I have is a Larch made in Cape Breton. If you've never seen one, they are not just great cutting boards, but works of art. The end grain patterning is really unique. I got my online directly from them, but I've seen a small selection of them carried at Good Egg and at the Gardiner Museum gift store of all places.
                    http://www.larchwoodcanada.com/

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                    Good Egg
                    267 Augusta Ave, Toronto, ON M5T, CA

                    2 Replies
                    1. re: num nums

                      Wow num nums ! Those larchwood boards are really nice!. I shop at Knife all the time and I've see the cutting board you mentioned,very nice,but I'm specifically looking for end grain blocks/boards.
                      Thanks for the link and the info.

                      Cheers

                      1. re: num nums

                        How would you compare using a Larch wood end-grain board to a heard maple end-grain board? I'm assuming you've used maple end-grain boards also. I was hoping to buy an end-grain board locally as well. Hard to find just short of buying the round 18" Boos end-grain board from Costco.

                        I'm hoping to buy a 3"x18"x24" size board. At least 3".

                      2. I've not seen any store carrying end grain boards in Toronto, meaning in stock on display ready to buy right away.

                        I've seen various Boos boards and Black Loon at the usual suspects, Nikolau, Tap Phong, Nella, etc. All edge grained maple.

                        http://www.blackloon.com/content/prod...

                        I ended up buying a Michigan Maple end grain board online and had it shipped to a friend in the US.

                        As to all these DIY dudes making boards, see what type of glue they're using. Titebond III is best for cutting boards as its more gentle on knives. The larchwood ones look like the pieces are all lined up identically, when they should be staggered for strength.

                        Also read this, from the best of the best...

                        http://theboardsmith.com/purchase.htm

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                        Tap Phong
                        360 Spadina Ave, Toronto, ON M5T, CA

                        5 Replies
                        1. re: aser

                          Thanks aser. I know all about the boardsmith. His stuff is outstanding. I was just trying to find an alternative that I could purchase locally. Most of the blocks I see are too tall,3"-4".The boardsmith's are the perfect height 2". I'll check out all of the recommendations on this thread,but I'll probably end up buying the boardsmith block because from what I've read,nothing comes close.

                          Cheers

                          1. re: petek

                            I still hope to one day buy a boardsmith, when I have more counter space. The michigan maple is decent, but it's nowhere near the quality of the boardsmith.

                            You'll not regret a boardsmith purchase.....

                            1. re: aser

                              hey aser. i just saw your post on Knifeforums.I meant no disrespect in quoting your thoughts on the larchwood board, I was just looking for some other thoughts on the subject.much respect to you.
                              After all tons of research I'm going to go with the Boardsmith maple "slab'.
                              Now all I have to do is convince my sister to lug it back from Florida :)

                              1. re: petek

                                Don't sweat it, I didn't think anything of it. You just wanted a more detailed answer, hope I gave it to you.

                                Also, ask David questions, he's always happy to answer all inquiries. You can tell he is very passionate about the topic.

                                Yes, shipping + canadian customs is a pain in the.........

                                1. re: aser

                                  Thanks again aser.Your more detailed answer was just what I was looking for.
                                  I'm gonna shoot David an email mow.I have a couple more questions before I push the "purchase" button on one of his Maple Carolina Slabs...
                                  And thanks to everyone else for the great advice!!

                                  Cheers

                        2. Have you looked at Ralph K's boards at http://www.choppingboards.ca/ ? He's got a couple of end grain rock maple boards right now on his site. I've bought several boards from him before (not end grain though) and they are superb. Free shipping if you spend $80 as well.

                          1 Reply
                          1. re: gnuf

                            Ralph makes some real nice boards,but they're a little spendy for me

                          2. FWIW I purchased a Roscan end grain maple board (made in Quebec), 18"x24"x2" for a very attractive price (below$30, several years ago), and the glue began to fail at the edges after three years. It fell apart fairly quickly, and I tried to use the maple blocks as smoke chips, but the smoke was acrid because of the glue.

                            There is also a lot of glue used in bamboo boards due to the high compression, and some critics have noted that this is undesirable as the knife can get fragments into the food.

                            I think the best compromise is edge grain Boos boards, if a round stump board is not available.

                            4 Replies
                            1. re: jayt90

                              With cutting boards, you really do get what you pay for. $30 seems ridiculously low for that size, the raw material would cost that much alone. I realize I've made a compromise by not buying Boardsmith, but eventually I'll move on up like the Jeffersons to the Cadillac of boards.

                              Can't say too much about Michigan Maple yet as I've only gotten it recently. Seems pretty gentle on my edges, but only time will tell whether the board remains intact. It does suck up copious amounts of mineral oil though.

                              I've heard a lot of stories about Boos boards failing after a few years. Also them being hard on edges due to the resin used during manufacturing, thus causing knife chipping.

                              This is another guy that makes great boards, very similar to Boardsmith in the use of bigger blocks and staggered construction.

                              http://www.markotsourkan.com/CuttingB...

                              1. re: aser

                                I finally ordered my boardSMITH Maple "slab" today! Should have it about 2 weeks.
                                I talked my sister into bringing it back with her from Florida(best sister ever!).
                                Marko's stuff is incredible these guys are true craftsman.

                                1. re: petek

                                  Perhaps you're the first person in Toronto w/ a boardsmith? I've never heard of anyone owning one. Congrats.......

                                  1. re: aser

                                    Thanks aser! I doubt I"m the only one in Toronto to own one,mabe just the only one to bragg about it :D I'm not bragging,just really excited.

                            2. Just as an update for those interested - I happened to notice that Costco.ca under their 'What's New" (Oct 18, 2011) is now selling the John Boos Round Chopping Board with End Grain construction for $125 Maple or $230 Walnut (incl ship & hand). Comes with sample of their Board cream too.

                              11 Replies
                              1. re: Blinkins

                                I just noticed that. I could buy that Boos round at Costco. It's end grain. And THICK. Bur I do prefer a rectangular shape.

                                The Boardsmith Boards are great but i would have liked to have seen Dave offer them at 3" thickness too.

                                So I guess if we want a high quality end grain rectangular board we have to order from Dave and pay the shipping fee (unless we have a willing family member). "What's another 20 lbs to your luggage??!!". Or, buy the Boos 18" diameter round.

                                Every one else is making edge grain boards. Well pretty much every one else. Like Peter...I would prefer to buy locally. Ordering online (less shipping costs) or in-person.

                                So if any one spots them please post..

                                1. re: BDD888

                                  Tosho had some a few months ago.

                                  1. re: BDD888

                                    Stinson Studios make cutting boards out of solid pieces of Maple or Ash. You may want to try contacting them. They are located in Tamworth, Ontario.

                                    1. re: AzulH

                                      How good is ash as a cutting board? There is a lot of it in S.W.Ontario now, harvested because of borers attacking the trees.

                                      1. re: jayt90

                                        I am sorry I am not an expert in this matter. I did a search and came across several positive commentaries on using Ash as a cutting board. It is classified as a hard wood, I believe.
                                        The ones I have seen certainly look very elegant.

                                        1. re: AzulH

                                          The emerald borer has destroyed most ash from Ohio to Manitoulin. The damage is just under the bark, so boards can still be made, but there may be transport restrictions.
                                          The price to woodworkers should be very attractive now, making these chopping boards cheaper than maple..

                                        2. re: jayt90

                                          A collection of information from the internet. Ash is more like Red Oak which is not recommended for cutting boards.

                                          I would be hesitant to make an Ash cutting board because it is my understanding that the grain on Ash is rather open which means it will make a poor end grain cutting board. Any grain that is open will soak in and hold moisture much more effectively then closed grain woods. For cuttingboards you really want to avoid the boards absorbing a lot of liquid for obvious reasons. Most cuttingboards are made of either Cherry, Walnut, Hard/Rock Maple, or Mahogany (purple heart being popular only on this site for the most part ). Cherry is about as soft as you want to go and Mahogany is absolutely as hard as you want to go and some folks say it IS too hard.

                                          The two things I feel are both important in the wood you choose for a cutting board (assuming it’s actually going to be cut on) are:

                                          1. The grain structure of the wood. Is it more open grained, or a tighter grain? You want a tighter grain wood as it’s less prone to trap food particles. Think of it as a tighter ‘weave”.

                                          2. Hardness of the wood, quantified on the Janka Scale. Woods such as maple (hard, preferably, but soft will also work), walnut, cherry, mahogany, etc. are not only tighter grained woods, thus fulfilling the 1st requirement, but they also have “good” numbers on the Janka Scale. They’re not too soft, but they’re not too hard either, so they’re not going to dull your knives like some of the exotics will that some people use. If you look at somebody that makes cutting boards for a living, such as BoardSMITH, he keeps all his woods within the Janka Hardness of 850-1600. He uses the woods listed above.

                                          While a lot of folks will make edge grain cuttingboards, if you love your knives you should really take that extra step and make an end grain cuttingboard. The knives coming down on the end grain is a lot easier on the knife then the same knife coming down on the edge grain. This has to do with the knife being able to part the wood fibers on the end grain and running smack into those same fibers on the edge grain.

                                          Ash like Oak has open pores - not very good idea as it can be a bacteria heaven.

                                          I hope this is of assistance.

                                          1. re: Dflip

                                            Good info - thanks

                                            Does the Janka scale measure the hardness of the face grain of the wood (like for flooring)? I have heard that the end grain of even softer woods can be much harder and yet still have this ability to be soft on knives (as it is able to part the wood fibers on the end grain)

                                            I have been told to avoid Teak as it has silica or something in the wood that can hurt a fine blade. Do the board experts agree on that?

                                            doesn't all wood have the ability to kill bacteria over time? Or do you mean that Ash - because it has large pores - can harbour bacteria. that is not on the surface of the wood.

                                            sounds like we are talking complexion :)

                                            1. re: PemaD

                                              http://www.countyfloors.com/about_jan...

                                              The Janka hardness test is a measurement of the force necessary to embed a .444-inch steel ball to half its diameter in wood. It is the industry standard for gauging the ability of various species to tolerate denting and normal wear, as well as being a good indication of the effort required to either nail or saw the particular wood.

                                              The concern for an end grain cutting board is whether it is open grained or not. Oak and ash are open grained which encourage the opportunity for bacteria to multiply and make people sick.

                                              As for teak, it is closer to the bottom of the acceptable range for hardness. The grain appears to be closed which is good news. The difficulty occurs when gluing it up. A solvent wash and epoxy seem to be the recommended method. The oil content of the wood makes it more difficult to glue together using regular cutting board, FDA, glues.

                                              The Boardsmith site provides some very good information on cutting boards and answers many of your questions. Teak does contain silica which is hard on knife edges. http://www.theboardsmith.com/purchase...

                                        3. re: AzulH

                                          I just checked their website. Looks like they specialize in making wood bowls made of maple. Though they do make "boards" which look like just a piece of a plank of wood. Not really finished.

                                          http://stinsonstudios.ca/stinson-by-d...

                                          1. re: BDD888

                                            But, very nice work with bowls and some of the burl that they've worked with is incredible. They are doing art work, not cutting boards. The boards they have include a live edge with bark, curves and don't don't look anything like a Boos cutting board. You really can't compare apples and oranges, since one produces art and the other a premier working product. I might like the Boos brand for practicality, but with the Stinson version I would struggle to not use a knife on it, for fear of damaging the piece of art.