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Feb 19, 2011 04:51 PM

Modern German Food in Berlin

I have a friend who will be staying in Berlin at the Radisson Blu near Museum Insel in March. She wants to sample "modern German food." I am going to recommend Regner Patzsch to her. It was such a great place to eat. (thanks Lingua). Do you have any suggestions on modern German food near the hotel she is staying in? She does not want to travel. Also any suggestions of interesting places to eat near her hotel would be appreciated.
Thanks again.

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  1. Give Kantine on Jochim str 11 a try. It's a very short walk north from where your friend is staying. The food is definitely delicious and a good value, plus the dining room is quite hip. It's apparently moving locations in April since the building owner is expanding his architecture office - so go before it's gone! The restaurant offers a changing daily menu of modern takes on German/continental cuisine. As is the fashion in Berlin, there's no sign outside to indicate there's a restaurant at the location, but still make a reservation, as it's not a secret.

    2 Replies
    1. re: S_B_Russell

      Wow. Their menu looks really interesting!

      I think Weinbar Rutz is also in the vicinity, as are Clärchen's Ballhaus (their schnitzel & pizza are decent, but it's more of an atmosphere kinda deal).

      If you friend tires of German food, Alte Schönhauser has a bunch of places such as Yam Yam (Korean), Cantamaggio, and the ever popular Monsieur Vuong. Cocolo on Gipsstr. has great ramen. Blaues Band on Alte Schönhauser also serves modern German food.

      Also, tons of places along Torstr and beyond (unfortunately known these days as "NoTo" - north of Torstr.

      1. re: linguafood

        Thanks for all the good ideas. Kantine looks great. Wish I could go to Berlin before the restaurant closes.
        The other ideas are great too. Wish we had gotten to Clarchen's Ballhaus in December but it was just too cold and snowy to convince my family to go there.

      I've spent half of the last 2 years living intermittently in Cologne and Bonn, where I've had my fill of traditional German fare. Just spent the weekend in Berlin to escape Karneval. We ate at Katz Orange, Horvath and Noto.
      Katz Orange: We (me + my husband) ordered steak tartar and ox cheeks. Both were modern, clever interpretations on dishes we've had in the Rhineland. I don't often eat meat, let alone tartar, but with KO's emphasis on local, organic ingredients, I felt this was the place to do it. And it was! The French fires cooked in goose fat were delectable. We split a desert of banana chocolate "cake and ice cream." This turned out to be a completely satisfying medley of tastes, textures and consistencies. KO offers a modern take on German fare and good value for the money. I'd return in a heartbeat.
      Horvath: The concept of this restaurant has changed since Frank Bruni wrote it up in the NY Times. It now focuses on a multi-course tasting menu. You select the number of courses, which can be paired with wines. Of our 8 courses, 3 or 4 were outstanding. All 8 were good and worked well as a whole. The wine (German or Austrian) pairings were well conceived, and it was an excellent way to sample several. The food was creative and well prepared. Horvath was a fun splurge on a weekend trip, but if I returned to Berlin, I doubt I'd return to Horvath. I could get a similar meal in other cities.
      Noto: We each ordered the veal ribs, cornbread and cabbage. Our desert consisted of lavender pana cotta with a small chocolate brownie. Both were awfully good. The menu is limited, and the beer and wine options even more. I loved the atmosphere. This is a small, friendly place that is passionate about what it's doing. It marries the warm, welcoming atmosphere of a kneipe (German pub) with a modern approach to food. I felt it delivered good quality for the money. I recommend it to others.

      6 Replies
      1. re: inkieD

        Great report! Next time you'll hafta get the slow-roasted pork at KO, for sure!

        Glad you enjoyed your meals!

        1. re: linguafood

          I enjoyed everything I ate in Berlin, and there are more restaurants I'd like to try. That may be the ultimate compliment from a foodie.

          1. re: inkieD

            The city's really come a long way in the last 2 decades, and keeps surprising me with great new additions.

            I can't wait to get back in late spring!

        2. re: inkieD

          It sounds like you had a pretty decent weekend trip in Berlin! I am curious to try Noto, especially! I'm sorry to hear that Horvath didn't come through all the way though. I had the 8 course tasting menu with wine pairing last fall and everything was spot on. That evening I had one of those moments that made me think I got lucky and was eating at one of the best places in the world to be eating at that moment. (Hyperbolic, I know - but the food was inspiring.) Their blood sausage biscuit with rich pumpkin seed oil and butter made an excellent start to a knockout meal. Previously I had really enjoyed smaller meals there - a very fine cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup, for example - but the 8 course was unforgettable. In any case, I hope it's not a sign they are going downhill. It would be a bummer, as it's one of my fave neighborhood establishments.

          1. re: breakfastsandwich

            The meal you had at Horvath last fall was probably sensational. There are particular times when everything just comes together. The night you described was no doubt one of them.
            I've eaten at places with tasting menus before, notably at Tru and Charlie Trotters in Chicago. The first time was at Tru, and it was an amazing experience.
            I suspect that I'm not so keen on the tasting menu concept anymore and may prefer the old fashioned appetizer, main course and dessert meal structure.
            Horvath is a fine restaurant. That I wasn't wild about it may say more about my preferences than the restaurant itself.

            1. re: inkieD

              Oh I'm jealous of your Charlie Trotters experience! I had hoped to make it before they closed.
              I can identify with occasionally feeling frustrated with a tasting format as well. Sometimes you just wanna pick what you're going to be eating, and not be subject to a chef who had poor judgment about the line up for the evening! (Some establishments are much more consistent with tasting menus, of course.) And, whenever I go back to Horvath I'll try to post some kind of follow-up here!

        3. There is an amazing place called Cookies Cream not too far from there. Their website is overdone and annoying, but the restaurant and food are fantastic, though pricey. You can check out their tripadvisor page: