Week long Paris trip in May '11

[ArianaLA]

Hi,

My husband and I are planning a week long trip to Paris. We have rented an apartment in St. Germain and love eating food and trying new things (my husband even tried the lampredotto panino in Florence last year!).

We are arriving in Paris (from Amsterdam) on Monday afternoon in May. My plan is to have dinner/lunch at the following places. I wanted to know if my restaurant picks are good (we are in our early 30s, really love food, not into formal ambiance) and if you can suggest a few places for the days that are blank.

Monday: Dinner @ Saturne (reservation confirmed)
Tuesday: Lunch @ Chez Dumonet (reservation confirmed)
Tuesday: Dinner ? maybe in the apartment if too stuffed from lunch
Wednesday: Lunch ?
Wednesday: Dinner @ Spring (told to call them a month before for a reservation)
Thursday: Lunch @ Versailles (day trip)...looking for some ideas
Thursday: Dinner @ Les Papilles (its close to our apartment, 9:30pm reservation confirmed)
Friday: Lunch @ Josseline
Friday: Dinner @ Frenchies (confirmed reservation)
Saturday: will try to have lunch @ Les Cocottes if not too crowded
Saturday: dinner @ either Moustache or Le Timbre?
Sunday: Lunch @ La's du Fallafel
Sunday: Dinner @ La vere Volle?

I wanted to try some Tunisian/Moroccan food as well but am running out of days as we are flying back to LA on the 23rd.

Thanks for your input!

[Bill Strzempek]

At the risk of throwing your entire schedule out of whack, I wonder if you are aware of the Versailles Eaux Musicales weekends which begin in April; I would not want you to miss this event when the incredibly stunning fountains are turned on and music plays across the grounds. There is a cafe with pretty good food in the palace, but plan on an early lunch, sells out quickly, or better yet, bring your own food. There are some okay bistros in Versailles itself, but you are not going to want to wander all the way over there and back again for lunch. There are also fetching young girls in the gardens who squeeze fresh orange juice for you for refreshment. I can't recommend these fountain weekends highly enough, it would be worth it to swap your Thursday trip out there for your Saturday. You can (and should) purchase your entry package tickets online and avoid the long lines in the morning and get through the palace before everyone else (you can book on the palace website or at fnac.fr). Whenever you go, plan a comforting meal for that evening, you are going to be exhausted from the walking and hungry as a horse.

[ArianaLA]

Thanks Bill! I did a bit of research too and the plan now is to go to Versailles on Saturday (as a day trip)...will get the paris museum pass and visit the Louvre on friday too. Appreciate the tip...I am looking forward to seeing the fountain show!

[happytoo]

By all means skip Saturn, service is so bad. We waited for so long for our food and it came cold. Nothing memorable. Try the Chateaubriand instead.

[ArianaLA]

I am surprised to hear that about Saturne. I had read good things on this board regarding the food and the young chef. Chateaubriand sounds good as well. Thanks!

[Parigi]

We had a very good dinner last week at Saturne.
Verdict: food great; operation not so smooth. Service nice although not always efficient.

Since we chose to sit at the counter facing the kitchen, we saw how the whole resto operated.
The kitchen was very smooth. What it produced was wonderful.
The in-between? Not so smooth.
Some patrons out in the bistro (instead of resto) section sat for a long time before a series of waiters asked each other: "Did that table get a menu?" "I thought you were supposed to give them a menu." "No, [a third waiter] was suppoed to. -- Hey, Third Waiter, did you give that table a menu?" "Say what?"

Also, dishes were sent to the wrong tables, etc. We were given the (great) crab starter twice. My pathologically honest husband just had to tell the waiter, who expressed no gratitude or apology.

I expect these are glitches to be smoothed out as the resto becomes more rôdé.
I'd love to go back again.

Next time: (1) we won't take the advice of the -though very nice - sommelier, and (2) will eat any dish wrongly sent to us twice...
And I recommend the counter seats to fellow hounds because (1) one is somewhat separated from the rather noisy room, (2) one sees to see how the kitchen works, and (3) since all the waiters pass by one, it is harder to be forgotten.

[Nancy S.]

I'm interested in reading this since I would like to have dinner at Saturne in July. When I telephone for a reservation, should I request the counter. Also, would you know if I will be able to ask for a reservation in English?

[Parigi]

"When I telephone for a reservation, should I request the counter."

I would. I do consider them the best seats.

"Also, would you know if I will be able to ask for a reservation in English?"

Dunno. I did notice a waiter speaking English. The staff probably does.

[ArianaLA]

I called them and asked in basic french if they spoke in english. The person on the other end spoke prefect english and took my reservation. You have to call them the day before to reconfirm if you book way in adance though.

[Nancy S.]

Just out curiosity, how far in advance did you book?

[Parigi]

Are we still talking about Saturne?
I booked a Monday dinner on the same day.

[ArianaLA]

I booked Saturne for May 16....9:30 pm. Nancy, only Spring told me to call them a month before and La vere Volle said to call a few days before.

[Nancy S.]

Excellent, thanks. Even though our trip is for July, I've started to book some places, e.g., Frenchie (where I've been many times already).

[mangeur]

'I recommend the counter seats to fellow hounds because (1) one is somewhat separated from the rather noisy room, (2) one sees to see how the kitchen works, and (3) since all the waiters pass by one, it is harder to be forgotten.'

Words to live by! I have never had other than an incredible time eating at a restaurant's counter. There is a level of observation, of hands on service and an insider relationship with staff that can't translate to the dining room.

I'm thinking of Spring and Rino in Paris and Frances and now-defunct Chez Nous in San Francisco.

[ArianaLA]

Thanks for the detailed feedback on your time at Saturne, Parigi! really appreciate it, esp the tip about the seating at the counter. will definitely request it.

[happytoo]

My experience there was so bad that I won't go back for a very very long time. Dinner took us more than 4 hours and I was just about to leave. food came cold, waitress was not interested. We got full on bread. So Saturn doesn't get my vote. Reminded me of NY noisy restos.

[Nancy S.]

Parigi -- I am planning on telephoning Saturne today to secure a dinner reservation for my upcoming holiday. I was wondering whether you could advise me as to how to phrase my request to sit at the counter facing the kitchen. Many thanks in advance.

[Parigi]

Always go moi-Tarzan-toi-Jane simple:
"est-t-il possible de réserver les deux places au comptoir devant la cuisine?"
(I feel very self-conscious saying this in front of Pti and Soup, two super-cultivated French hounds.)

[Nancy S.]

merci!

[Delucacheesemonger]

Good choices, l do not know Josseline. For Wed lunch either Chez Denise or Le Grand Pan.
Research both, l have been going to both of them for a very long time.

[Oakglen]

I believe the reference is to the creperie Josselin; some people love it and others hate the place. Count me in the last group.

[ArianaLA]

David lebovitz had referred Creperie Josselin but I might skip it. Chez Denise sounds gr8...thanks for the feedback!

[tortoiseshell]

If you want to try "galettes" this is one of the best places in Paris, IMO. It gets crowded quickly so if you can get there early (before 12:30) you shouldn't have to wait for a table. Le Petit Josselin is open on Mondays and I actually prefer it to Creperie Josselin (which is closed on Mondays). It's a place I take my younger visitors to (in their 20s) and they rave about it.

[ArianaLA]

Thanks, Tortoiseshell! I wasn't sure which Josselin David Lebovitz was talking abt...it sounds like Le Petit Josselin....I am very excited to try the galettes there...thanks again for the tip.

[tortoiseshell]

Either place is good just so you know you have the two options if you go on Wednesday or Friday. Le Petit Josselin is very small and crowded--you will be elbow to elbow--if you end up going there. But I think your stomach will be satisfied!

[PhilD]

I think that is a good list, not too full on, and some good balance. Others tastes may differ but I don't see any that have poor reputations.The gaps are also good as it allows you to go with the flow, I wouldn't worry too much about Versailles, just grab a convenient sandwich and enjoy the palace.

[ArianaLA]

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback....I am really looking forward to eating in Paris.