Michelin in Asia -- what is the deal?
I just read the 2009 New Yorker article about one of Michelin's NYC inspectors:
In it, the inspector says their rating is "just technical. I mean, cooking is a science, and either it’s right or it’s wrong. And that’s something that’s very objective. Either a sauce is prepared accurately—or it’s not. A fish is cooked accurately—or it’s not."
Is having a well-developed French palate (i.e., you know all the sauces, cooking techniques, major ingredients) sufficient to judge the goodness of Chinese food for a Chinese audience? Is having a well-developed Chinese palate sufficient to judge French food for a French audience?
If you're someone who happily eats both, do you turn off one part of your brain when you're eating Chinese and the other when you're eating French?
I was just reading Thai Chef McDang's rant on how Michelin gave stars to two "Thai restaurants" run by non-Thais who don't treat rice as a central part of their cooking, which is apparently anathema to Thai cuisine.
I know that Michelin sells well in Japan, but I've heard a lot of crabbing about their guides for China (including HK/Macau).
Have they made any official statements on how exactly they're going about judging Chinese food?
If this is written up somewhere, can someone point me in the right direction?
re: Uncle Yabai
If you look on e_ting's blog (a prominent HK food blogger) - in her best of 2010 blog posts she links to a few posts which discuss Michelin madness in HK.
The one by Peech/ Diary of a Growing Boy is particularly worth reading. (Mine is less so and is more a rant about STL).
I have been told off by Chowhound for doing links in my posts but if you go to google and put in "My favourite Hong Kong food posts of 2010" and "e_ting" it will come up.
"just technical. I mean, cooking is a science, and either it’s right or it’s wrong. And that’s something that’s very objective. Either a sauce is prepared accurately—or it’s not. A fish is cooked accurately—or it’s not."
This makes me laugh. Ask them the following technical question and I am sure they don't know how to answer.
- What makes Ho Hung Kee in the technical way stands out from other wonton noodle places that make it the only one star michelin wonton noodle restaurant ?
It only means that you don't have to be (and in some cases cannot be) traditional and old school to win the heart of a French rubber tire company. That way the locals and food lovers in the know can enjoy the likes of Mak's, Wah Jieh/Kwun Kee without people holding red books in their hands.
But the rubber tire folks don't seem to want to go out of their way to Lau Fau Shan to taste "B" Gor's extraordinary seafood cooking either, who happens to be the youngest winner of the blue ribbon award (also French in nature), although I'm sure he's not as raved these days thanks to other nonworthy news.
"B" Gor and his restaurant "Foon Look" seafood has been raved about in the local HK press since 2006/2007. He's virtually unheard of outside of HK or to the western media for some reason. I only knew about him through HK food books and TV shows, and researching (in Chinese) any online material of his, including interviews by local press. Yeung Koon Yat from The Forum might be a bit more high profile, since that restaurant used to have Michelin Stars (not sure about now since I don't keep up anymore). Yeung is also a blue ribbon award winner.
I'm not clear on the exact nature of the blue ribbon award, but there are quite a few HK chefs that have won this award.
Also Lau Fau Shan is not a foreign tourist destination stop, as it is not easily accessible unless you have a guide/a local take you (it's what, 30 mins from Yuen Long in the NT?), or you know the bus routes/willing to pay for a cab. This is where Sai Kung and the likes of Chuen Kee and Lamma Island's Rainbow Seafood fill that gap for visitors.