Blacktree (Burlington)
Over the past couple of years, I've been a strong proponent of Blacktree and Chef Matteo Paonessa's wizardry in the kitchen. I had another thoroughly enjoyable meal last week to celebrate my wife's birthday. I was going to write another review of a great evening, but the food writer at the Hamilton Spectator beat me to it. His comparison between Blacktree and Quaterfoil is reasonable. Having dined at both recently, Blacktree gets my vote for number 1 restaurant.
Here's the article from the Spec.
http://www.thespec.com/whatson/restau...
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Blacktree
3029 New St, Burlington, ON L7N, CA
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Consider Blacktree "on the radar" now. Patiaki just gave it 4 stars.
http://www.thestar.com/entertainment/...
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Blacktree
3029 New St, Burlington, ON L7N, CA -
estufarian
Feb 15, 2011 11:25 AM
Hey, I voted for Blacktree as one of my top 10.
For me pprobably the most 'exciting' restaurant in GTA. Doesn't always hit the mark perfectly, but always full marks for effort.
And still the only restaurant outside the metropolitan Toronto area that I will drive to regularly.-----
Blacktree
3029 New St, Burlington, ON L7N, CA›3 Replies-
re: estufarian
Yes! It was because of you I made a second visit. It fell off my radar until you listed it in your top 10 and provided me some feedback.
I applaud his effort as well. I was trying to compare his style to other chefs and the first name that popped in my head was Pierre Gagnaire. Now before anyone condemns me to the gallows, I'm not saying he's on the same level with respect to the precision and execution of food. But there is a playfullness on his plate in the way he juxtaposes ingredients, that reminds me of PG ( maybe a PG in his early days??? or maybe a non-asian Susur??). That being said, I was disappointed in my meal at PG; perhaps I was expecting too much!
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Susur
601 King St W, Toronto, ON M5V1M5, CA-
re: Apprentice
estufarian
Feb 15, 2011 04:55 PM
I wasn't impressed with Gagnaire. Had a REALLY bad wine experience there (a wine seriously over-the-hill) which coloured the whole experience, but the food didn't knock me out either. He seemed to take everything VERY seriously, yet Matteo takes a more whimsical approach (e.g. the mushroom ice-creams), as you also mention.
It's hard to give a comparison that works without being even more obscure. Maybe Schwa (in Chicago) - except my guess is that few people on this Board have had the patience (endurance?) to get there. That's probably why I like it - it's just 'different'. Yet not 'scary different'.-
re: estufarian
Charles Yu
Feb 15, 2011 05:13 PM
Well! Guess I might as well join in the ' Anti-Gagnaire ' camp too!
I ate at both his Parisian 3* and his Hong Kong 2* outpost and were disappointed at both locations! Cannot remember any great dishes but did remember the pheasant in the Hong Kong restaurant was seriously overcooked!
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I was there last night (previous visit was 2009). Matteo is very playful with his flavour combinations and use of textures. A perfect example would be the “Pig and Lobster”; if you love the taste of pork and contrasting textures (soft, crispy, cool, hot) this dish should not be missed. The composed salad and foie gras were also excellent. The only "disappointment" would be the gnocchi (parmesan scented with shaved truffles). It was tasty, but not as "complex" or flavourful as the other dishes.
If you're willing to explore unique flavour combinations and allow a chef to have fun on your plate, I highly recommend a trip down to Burlington.
